Help with planted/silent cycle

[Essjay]

That's a bit harder than mine (slightly hard) but silver tips are one of the tetras that can live in harder water. Seriously Fish gives their hardness range as 5 to 20 dH (90 - 350 ppm)

Yes, they will form a hierarchy and with such fish getting them all at once is better than a few at a time.




[There wasn't as much emphasis on the Welsh language 40 years ago ]

 

[sisyphus]

Just a quick follow up on this a week on. I've had some good plant growth but ammonia (0.25ppm) and nitrite (0.5ppm) remain stubbornly just above zero.

I've done a couple of water changes in that time (25% and 50%), but it doesn't seem to have a made much difference even though my tap water tests zero for both.

I'm guessing the answer is to be patient and stick with it. However, I just wanted to check I'm not doing something obviously wrong, or if there's anything else I could be doing.

Also, what's the story with algae? I did have some brown and blue-green algae on a few plants, which I've tried to clean delicately from leaves. I figured that could inhibit plant growth, but I have no idea really and I would appreciate any advice on the subject.

 

[Byron]

Just a quick follow up on this a week on. I've had some good plant growth but ammonia (0.25ppm) and nitrite (0.5ppm) remain stubbornly just above zero.

I've done a couple of water changes in that time (25% and 50%), but it doesn't seem to have a made much difference even though my tap water tests zero for both.

I'm guessing the answer is to be patient and stick with it. However, I just wanted to check I'm not doing something obviously wrong, or if there's anything else I could be doing.

Also, what's the story with algae? I did have some brown and blue-green algae on a few plants, which I've tried to clean delicately from leaves. I figured that could inhibit plant growth, but I have no idea really and I would appreciate any advice on the subject.

I've read through this thread, but I may have missed something, so to be certain...

Do one or more major water changes, aim is to have zero ammonia and nitrite, and nitrate too at this point unless nitrate is in the source water. And on that, have you tested the source water on its own for all three? Worth knowing if one or more are present.

Make sure you have some floating plants as they are literally ammonia sinks and if they are growing you are good to go re the fish. I assume you have not added any artificial ammonia; this can kill the plants and is not needed anyway, as I think RetiredViking explained.

 

[sisyphus]

To clarify, I have tested my tap water and I got zero on all three. I'll test it a second time just to be sure. I did intially add fish food as a source of ammonia as I didn't really know anything about the silent cycle. I did a relatively thorough job cleaning up the fish food after RetiredViking set me on the right path. I added some floating plants a few days ago. I'll do some more water changes, sit tight and try to be patient, hopefully the ammonia and nitrite will go to zero before too long.

 

[Byron]

To clarify, I have tested my tap water and I got zero on all three. I'll test it a second time just to be sure. I did intially add fish food as a source of ammonia as I didn't really know anything about the silent cycle. I did a relatively thorough job cleaning up the fish food after RetiredViking set me on the right path. I added some floating plants a few days ago. I'll do some more water changes, sit tight and try to be patient, hopefully the ammonia and nitrite will go to zero before too long.

Sounds good. I have set up and re-set dozens of tanks using live plants and never had a problem, and never see ammonia, nitrite or nitrate; nitrate may enter the picture months down the road depending upon fish load, but it still measures in the 0 to 5 ppm range so for all I know it may be zero. This could be due to the earlier fish food.

 

[sisyphus]

More the likely it's leftover food I missed. Frustratingly the tank was probably good to go when I added it. Ah well, you live and learn. I suppose all the patience will pay off when I eventually add fish safe in the knowledge that I've done all I can.

 

[sisyphus]

On re-testing, my tap water does seem to contain some nitrate and ammonia (0-5ppm and 0-0.25ppm). In that case, should I be using an 'ammonia remover' alongside a dechlorinator before adding water or do I just let nature run its course?

After a 70% wc, nitrates in my aquarium are at 5ppm, nitrites at zero, and ammonia at 0.25, so heading in the right direction.

 

[Byron]

On re-testing, my tap water does seem to contain some nitrate and ammonia (0-5ppm and 0-0.25ppm). In that case, should I be using an 'ammonia remover' alongside a dechlorinator before adding water or do I just let nature run its course?

After a 70% wc, nitrates in my aquarium are at 5ppm, nitrites at zero, and ammonia at 0.25, so heading in the right direction.

The nitrate in the 0 to 5 ppm range is not a problem. You will keep nitrates from increasing problematically in the aquarium through balanced stocking, not overfeeding, keeping the filter very clean (the organics are the brown sludge that accumulates in filters), vacuuming into the open areas of substrate (depends, sand is usually best left alone, it is gravel that allows for the larger organic bits to accumulate more than sand), and of course weekly substantial partial water changes of 60-70%.

As for the ammonia in the source water...do they add chloramine to your water? If yes, this is likely the ammonia, as chloramine is ammonia and chlorine which is more effective that straight chlorine. This should not be an issue if you use a good conditioner. If your pH is on the acidic side (below 7.0) it will be mainly ammonium which is basically harmless. And with live plants, they will grab the ammonia/ammonium fairly quickly. I would not recommend any ammonia remover here. The system should handle it. Once you start using these chemical substances it affects the natural biological system.

 

[sisyphus]

The nitrate in the 0 to 5 ppm range is not a problem. You will keep nitrates from increasing problematically in the aquarium through balanced stocking, not overfeeding, keeping the filter very clean (the organics are the brown sludge that accumulates in filters), vacuuming into the open areas of substrate (depends, sand is usually best left alone, it is gravel that allows for the larger organic bits to accumulate more than sand), and of course weekly substantial partial water changes of 60-70%.

As for the ammonia in the source water...do they add chloramine to your water? If yes, this is likely the ammonia, as chloramine is ammonia and chlorine which is more effective that straight chlorine. This should not be an issue if you use a good conditioner. If your pH is on the acidic side (below 7.0) it will be mainly ammonium which is basically harmless. And with live plants, they will grab the ammonia/ammonium fairly quickly. I would not recommend any ammonia remover here. The system should handle it. Once you start using these chemical substances it affects the natural biological system.

Thanks a lot. A quick search reveals that Welsh Water does indeed add chloramine nowadays, so that's likely mystery solved. I don't suppose you have a good conditioner that you'd recommend? To the untrained eye, it's hard to tell much of a difference. My PH is more on the alkaline side (7.4). I'll steer clear of ammonia remover, as you suggest don't want to hamper the natural system.

 

[Byron]

Thanks a lot. A quick search reveals that Welsh Water does indeed add chloramine nowadays, so that's likely mystery solved. I don't suppose you have a good conditioner that you'd recommend? To the untrained eye, it's hard to tell much of a difference. My PH is more on the alkaline side (7.4). I'll steer clear of ammonia remover, as you suggest don't want to hamper the natural system.

I use and heartily recommend API's Tap Water Conditioner. This is highly concentrated so you use very little; as you have chloramine, two drops per gallon of tap water is all you use. It is "basic" in that it deals with chloramine, chlorine, and heavy metals. Many other conditioners go beyond this, and that is where trouble can arise, by either messing with things best left alone, or by adding various substances like aloe vera or valerian or whatever.

 

[sisyphus]

Thanks for the recommendation, I'll pick some up. I must avoid the temptation to just buy the cheapest. As I found out with the test strips before switching to API master kit, sometimes it pays to spend a little more!

 

[sisyphus]

All being well, and I get zero readings for ammonia and nitrate for the next three or four days, I think I'll finally be able to add fish come the weekend Fingers crossed!

 

[Essjay]

Sometimes the cheapest can work out more expensive With the API Tap Water Conditioner you use so little per gallon (or 3.8 litres if you prefer) that the bottle lasts a lot longer than cheaper dechlorinators.

 

[sisyphus]

I just wanted to say a massive thank you to @Byron, @essjay, @JuiceBox52 and @Retired Viking for all your advice.

I finally added a dozen silver-tip tetras yesterday and they seem to be settling in really well.

I couldn't have done it without your help, so thank you so much!