Cycled? What should I stock?

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I have a UNS 45S (6 gallons, 23 liters, 45x28x18cm) that I speed-cycled by seeding the tank with goop from an established filter. I added a few ppm of Ammonia about a week ago. Yesterday I tested the water and I got NH3 1-2 ppm, NO2 2 ppm, and NO3 10-20 ppm. I did a 50% water change. Today I retested and I got NH3 0 ppm, NO2 1 ppm, and NO3 40 ppm. I'm going to do a 50-75% water change later today.

Does it seem like I'm ready to stock the tank?

There's a few things I need to consider when stocking
  1. The tank is smaller than I thought it would be due to the 2 inches of soil in the tank. There is very little vertical height to the tank.
  2. The tank is very young (<2 weeks old). Not much of a biofilm, there hasn't been much plant growth yet apart from the Cardinal Plant and the Dwarf Sag.
  3. The tank won't have a cover and it's filled to about 1 inch from the top.
For stocking, I was originally thinking of getting a single Pea Puffer, but I'm worried the volume of the tank is too small. The tank does have a lot of floor space. Another option would be Dario sp., but I don't want to have to feed live food all the time, and I'm not sure how Dario sp. would do in such a young tank. A lot of other species would be jump risks in this tank. Other options I've thought of are Chili Raspbora, Bumblebee Goby, or Pygmy Sunfish. I could stock shrimp if I don't get a Pea Puffer, but I think I need to wait for some biofilm to build up before I add shrimp.

I want to stock something because I don't want to lose the cycle. What should I do?
 
the tank doesn't seem cycled to me, give it a bit more time and with that, the whole biofilm situation will also sort itself out.
don't worry that much about the height, most of the fish suitable for a 5 gallon appreciate more the horizontal space than the vertical space.
a single pea puffer would be ok in that setup. But only 1
a pair of Scarlett badis or pygmy sunfish could take the pea puffers place.
chili rasboras are small but need a lot of swim space, but considering that your aquarium does have a bigger area than the normal 5 gallons, then maybe you could get away with keeping a small school of them.
bumblebee gobies are a brackish water species I believe.
as for the shrimp, a few cherry shrimp would do fenomenal.

I would say that a cool stocking once the tank is fully cycled with the fish that you mentioned would be 8 chili rasboras, 2 pygmy sunfish, and a few cherry shrimp of your favorite color
 
If you have nitrite you are not cycled, it has taken a week for you to remove the ammonia. Because of the goop you might have sped the cycle up, I think you should add another ammonia dose and test one day after to check.
I was thinking that the current bacteria processed ~1ppm of NH3 and ~1ppm of NO2 in 24 hrs and that was sufficient. I did a water change and added 1 ppm of NH3. Hopefully tomorrow it will be clear.
the tank doesn't seem cycled to me, give it a bit more time and with that, the whole biofilm situation will also sort itself out.
don't worry that much about the height, most of the fish suitable for a 5 gallon appreciate more the horizontal space than the vertical space.
a single pea puffer would be ok in that setup. But only 1
a pair of Scarlett badis or pygmy sunfish could take the pea puffers place.
chili rasboras are small but need a lot of swim space, but considering that your aquarium does have a bigger area than the normal 5 gallons, then maybe you could get away with keeping a small school of them.
bumblebee gobies are a brackish water species I believe.
as for the shrimp, a few cherry shrimp would do fenomenal.

I would say that a cool stocking once the tank is fully cycled with the fish that you mentioned would be 8 chili rasboras, 2 pygmy sunfish, and a few cherry shrimp of your favorite color
On second thought, I think the Chili Rasboras are too likely to jump.

There are many species of Bumblebee gobies and most are fine in full fresh water. The most commonly mentioned species, Brachygobius doriae, is paradoxically found in brackish estuarine environments and blackwater peat swaps (at least, according to seriously fish). I imagine the species is comfortable in a VERY wide range of water conditions. When in doubt Brachygobius xanthomelas is a certified true freshwater species and is commonly available (e.g. The Wet Spot has this species right now).

Pygmy sunfish would be awesome. I need to figure out how to culture microworms for them.
 
If the cycle took 1 week, that's i record, I mean it. Tell Guinness would records to put in in there book. I don't think your rank is cycled. If it is cycled I need to tell you that pea puffers are much happier in groups if 2 or more. It will be a bit sad and lonely. I would go with the chilli rasboras, some guppies could work. You said the footprint 8s large, I'm not sure about this one, but some PYGMY cory catfish might be a possibility
 
I was thinking that the current bacteria processed ~1ppm of NH3 and ~1ppm of NO2 in 24 hrs and that was sufficient. I did a water change and added 1 ppm of NH3. Hopefully tomorrow it will be clear.

On second thought, I think the Chili Rasboras are too likely to jump.

There are many species of Bumblebee gobies and most are fine in full fresh water. The most commonly mentioned species, Brachygobius doriae, is paradoxically found in brackish estuarine environments and blackwater peat swaps (at least, according to seriously fish). I imagine the species is comfortable in a VERY wide range of water conditions. When in doubt Brachygobius xanthomelas is a certified true freshwater species and is commonly available (e.g. The Wet Spot has this species right now).

Pygmy sunfish would be awesome. I need to figure out how to culture microworms for them.
Bumblebee Gobies are not a good idea. They like groups, and prefer salinity, but can live in fresh. pygmy Sunfish would be a better fit. Tank needs to have 0PPM Ammonia, 0PPM Nitrite, and around 10PPM Nitrate
 
If the cycle took 1 week, that's i record, I mean it. Tell Guinness would records to put in in there book. I don't think your rank is cycled. If it is cycled I need to tell you that pea puffers are much happier in groups if 2 or more. It will be a bit sad and lonely. I would go with the chilli rasboras, some guppies could work. You said the footprint 8s large, I'm not sure about this one, but some PYGMY cory catfish might be a possibility
I seeded the tank with bacteria from a long established filter on another tank. I removed a sponge from a the established filter and "cleaned" it in the new tank and the new filter. It filled the new tank with detritus, but it basically insta-cycled the new tank.

I do have some reservations about the dwarf puffer for exactly the reasons you mentioned.

I'm worried about keeping Corydoras in a tank without a cover because I think they're more likely to jump than some species.

Bumblebee Gobies are not a good idea. They like groups, and prefer salinity, but can live in fresh. pygmy Sunfish would be a better fit. Tank needs to have 0PPM Ammonia, 0PPM Nitrite, and around 10PPM Nitrate
I disagree, Brachygobius xanthomelas is exclusively collected in freshwater environments compared to a lot of other Brachygobius sp. that are collected in both brackish and freshwater environments. This species is supposed to be maintained in freshwater. They most definitely do not prefer salinity.

Seriouslyfish suggests 45x30cm as the minimum footprint for this species. That's the footprint of my tank. Brachygobius xanthomelas is supposed to be 15 to 20 mm, the same size as Chili Rasboras. Why would a group Chili Rasboras be OK but not Brachygobius xanthomelas? Are Bumblebee gobies really that territorial? Would maintaining them in a group not be enough to reduce aggression?
 
I’m thinking you are not cycled. My understanding it that the tank needs to clear the ammonia and nitrites in 24hrs.
 
Tank is definitely NOT cycled after only a single dose of Ammonia. Doesn't matter if it was seeded or not it will not be done that quick.

Follow the fish less cycling process. It will likely take several weeks even if you have seeded the tank. Yesterday I wrote up a simplified set of instructions on how to fishless cycle. You might find it useful

 
I seeded the tank with bacteria from a long established filter on another tank. I removed a sponge from a the established filter and "cleaned" it in the new tank and the new filter. It filled the new tank with detritus, but it basically insta-cycled the new tank.

I do have some reservations about the dwarf puffer for exactly the reasons you mentioned.

I'm worried about keeping Corydoras in a tank without a cover because I think they're more likely to jump than some species.


I disagree, Brachygobius xanthomelas is exclusively collected in freshwater environments compared to a lot of other Brachygobius sp. that are collected in both brackish and freshwater environments. This species is supposed to be maintained in freshwater. They most definitely do not prefer salinity.

Seriouslyfish suggests 45x30cm as the minimum footprint for this species. That's the footprint of my tank. Brachygobius xanthomelas is supposed to be 15 to 20 mm, the same size as Chili Rasboras. Why would a group Chili Rasboras be OK but not Brachygobius xanthomelas? Are Bumblebee gobies really that territorial? Would maintaining them in a group not be enough to reduce aggression?
If they are collected from freshwater areas, than go ahead. But size doesn’t matter for tank size. Compreciseps Dwarf Pike Cichlids grows to just under 6 inches, yet the minimum footprint is a 55g. Aggression can add on gallons. I do not suggest bumblebee gobies. Call the aquaria store and ask them if you want proof.
 
"I'm worried about keeping Corydoras in a tank without a cover because I think they're more likely to jump than some species."

I have never heard of a single instance in which corys have jumped from a tank.

Moot subject, this tank is too small for them, anyway
 
"I'm worried about keeping Corydoras in a tank without a cover because I think they're more likely to jump than some species."

I have never heard of a single instance in which corys have jumped from a tank.

Moot subject, this tank is too small for them, anyway
Neither have I but I expect the theory is based on how enthusiastically they gulp their air when in a frisky mood; I regularly hear them hit the lid.
 
Putting aside for the moment that your tiny tank is probably un-cycled, as evidenced by your readings of both ammonia AND nitrite, the next important info that you don't appear to have considered at all, is your water's pH and hardness. These are the most important factors to consider when looking at fish, as any fish you choose MUST be able to thrive, (not just survive), in that water.
The second most important factor is tank space, as already suggested, by previous respondents.

You do not have the space for any corydoras. You might be able to accommodate Pygmy Corydoras, but not in the numbers required to keep them happy.

Of all your own suggestions, I see only the chili rasbora being a realistic possibility.

All that said, I'm curious as to your other sources of info, especially when they have led you to believe that corys and chili rasbora are serious jumpers.
 
There are reports of Corydoras leaping out of the tank during total darkness, so it does happen. Loaches are even more likely to do this. Point is, being "substrate" fish doesn't mean they won't/can't. I would never keep these fish in open top tanks unless there is a lot of airspace.

As for stocking, what are the water parameters? These are GH (general or total hardness) and pH primarily (KH and temperature are the others) and with a very small tank the fish will likely be nano and many of these are wild caught so parameters matter even more.

Another caution on the soil...if by this you mean some type of actual soil, be aware that the organics in the soil will break down slowly, and that means lots of ammonia (as well as CO2) for usually several months, depending upon the soil. Most soil substrate aquarists are now recommending a dry start and no fish to six months so this all settles down.
 
Tank is definitely NOT cycled after only a single dose of Ammonia. Doesn't matter if it was seeded or not it will not be done that quick.

Follow the fish less cycling process. It will likely take several weeks even if you have seeded the tank. Yesterday I wrote up a simplified set of instructions on how to fishless cycle. You might find it useful


I've dosed ammonia 3 times now. I guess my original post didn't make that very clear. I'm going to test today to see if the 1 ppm of ammonia I added yesterday is gone yet. My guess is that it is gone. I'm going to dose 2ppm tonight and check again tomorrow night. I know its a pretty fast cycle but if these tests are good, the tank is cycled.

If they are collected from freshwater areas, than go ahead. But size doesn’t matter for tank size. Compreciseps Dwarf Pike Cichlids grows to just under 6 inches, yet the minimum footprint is a 55g. Aggression can add on gallons. I do not suggest bumblebee gobies. Call the aquaria store and ask them if you want proof.
I think a Compressiceps pair/harem are fine in a 40 gal breeder, maybe even a 30 gal breeder? Anyway, I doubt my LFS would dissuade me from getting bumblebee gobies.

"I'm worried about keeping Corydoras in a tank without a cover because I think they're more likely to jump than some species."

I have never heard of a single instance in which corys have jumped from a tank.

Moot subject, this tank is too small for them, anyway
As Myraan and Byron already mentioned, Corydoras are air gulpers. They often dart to the surface with gusty to take a gulp. They can absolutely leave the tank this way.

Putting aside for the moment that your tiny tank is probably un-cycled, as evidenced by your readings of both ammonia AND nitrite, the next important info that you don't appear to have considered at all, is your water's pH and hardness. These are the most important factors to consider when looking at fish, as any fish you choose MUST be able to thrive, (not just survive), in that water.
The second most important factor is tank space, as already suggested, by previous respondents.

You do not have the space for any corydoras. You might be able to accommodate Pygmy Corydoras, but not in the numbers required to keep them happy.

Of all your own suggestions, I see only the chili rasbora being a realistic possibility.

All that said, I'm curious as to your other sources of info, especially when they have led you to believe that corys and chili rasbora are serious jumpers.
My understanding is that corys are air gulpers and liable to jump when they take a gulp, especially since dwarf corys swim higher in the water column than most corys (at least Corydoras pygmaeus does). They won't fit in the tank anyway. I guess I just assumed Chili Rasboras are more likely to jump than, say, Pea Puffers or Dario dario because they're cyprinds (high activity, mid to upper water column dwellers). I'm not really that interested in keeping Chili Rasboras anyway.

The tank processed 1ppm of ammonia and 1ppm of nitrite in 24 hrs. I'm learning this might not be enough, but the tank is really close. I'm going to does 2 ppm tonight and check again tomorrow.

IMO the importance of pH and hardness are wildly overblown in most cases, especially pH. Hardness matters a little more especially if the hardness is an extreme value. A lot of aquarium fish are either captive-bred, in which case they are often comfortable in a wider range of water conditions than their wild counterparts and this is rarely considered. Wild fish are often tolerant of a wider range of water conditions than is often suggested online (see this great article (https://www.seriouslyfish.com/whaddaya-mean-too-hot/)). Of course this isn't always true and some species of fish are really particular.

In general, people often take water value on online websites as absolutes, when they should really be taken with a grain of salt. Consider the SeriouslyFish entry for Brachygobius xanthomelas because that's already been brought up. The habitat is described as blackwater peat swamp, negligible hardness and very acid water. The suggested water conditions are pH of 7.0-8.5 and hardness of 143-357 ppm. Clearly this is wrong. In fact, if you look at all the Brachygobius sp. pages you'll see that they're mostly identical copies of eachother. Whoever wrote the Brachygobius xanthomelas page, copy and pasted information from other Brachygobius sp. pages and failed to properly edit the whole thing. If you just read the water conditions section you would get an entirely incorrect idea of the ideal water parameters for this fish.

There are reports of Corydoras leaping out of the tank during total darkness, so it does happen. Loaches are even more likely to do this. Point is, being "substrate" fish doesn't mean they won't/can't. I would never keep these fish in open top tanks unless there is a lot of airspace.

As for stocking, what are the water parameters? These are GH (general or total hardness) and pH primarily (KH and temperature are the others) and with a very small tank the fish will likely be nano and many of these are wild caught so parameters matter even more.

Another caution on the soil...if by this you mean some type of actual soil, be aware that the organics in the soil will break down slowly, and that means lots of ammonia (as well as CO2) for usually several months, depending upon the soil. Most soil substrate aquarists are now recommending a dry start and no fish to six months so this all settles down.
pH is 6.8-7.0, GH is 4 deg, KH is 2 deg.

I have aquasoil (UNS controsoil to be specific). It doesn't take quite as long to break in as dirt.
 

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