Erm, you REALLY REALLY need to test your ammonia mate...
What size is your tank?
Using your theory I could claim to cycle my tank in 1 day!
Whether you add ammonia from a bottle to 'fishless-cycle', or you put fish in and allow their 'waste' to produce ammonia it makes little difference, (ignoring for a moment the extra work, and potential fish-risks of fish-in cycling).
There is then a biological process that takes place, (the Nitrogen Cycle).
Ammonia is converted by a type of bacteria, (lets call them ABacs), into NitrIte.
NitrIte is then converted by a type of bacteria, (lets call them NBacs), into NitrAte.
All 3 of the above can be used in varying degrees by the plants, but unless you are heavily planted don't rely on it, (the effect of your 10 plants is likely to be negligble).
On Day 1 of a fishless cycle I would add 5ppm of ammonia to start the cycle off.
Using your tests you would test NitrIte and get 0 or close to it, and class the tank cycled ??
You have to give the ABacs colony time to grow, and all that time your ammonia levels will be rising, and your NitrIte levels are likely to be negligable.
Once the ABacs have grown then each 1 ppm of Ammonia in the water will be getting converted into 2.7ppm of NitrIte.
It is at THIS point that your NitrIte levels will sky rocket, as by now your ABacs are almost 'mature', but you have little or no NBacs.
It seems that it takes the NBacs longer to mature, (whether this is because they are slower to grow, or whether you simply need more of them I didn't know), but this NitrIte peak has a habit of hanging around.
Finally you will reach a point where you NBacs bring the NitrIte back down to 0, and your ABacs & NBacs will fall into balance, such that the ABacs can deal with the ammonia your fish (or bottle) is producing, and the NBacs are able to deal with the NitrIte that the ABacs are producing.
Then your only concern is keeping the NitrAte levels in check with regular water changes & maintenance.
On Day11 (without seeding your filter from another mature filter), I would guess that you are probably in the ammonia spike stage. Of course if you are regularly changing your water to keep the NitrIte low, then this will be helping with the Ammonia levels too, but
PLEASE don't assume that your tank is cycled just because one of the parameters is where it is supposed to be.
Do an ammonia test, along with nitrIte and NitrAte tests, and then post the results here, along with when you last did a water change on the tank, what % you changed, and also the size of the tank would be useful.
Brilliant if the tank has cycled in that time, but I doubt it
