Cyanobacteria Questions & White Spores

[mark4785]

yeah, looks terrible but was thinking of an instant solution to your requirements. I mean, it's not exactly going to ruin the look of your algae infested tank at the moment is it?

I never said cyanobacteria is making my tank look terrible or ugly, that's just your opinion.

 

[mbsqw1d]

yeah, looks terrible but was thinking of an instant solution to your requirements. I mean, it's not exactly going to ruin the look of your algae infested tank at the moment is it?

I never said cyanobacteria is making my tank look terrible or ugly, that's just your opinion.

and you'd be putting words in my mouth. What reason would you have for wanting to remove the cyanobacteria if you didn't think it looked bad? Why do gardeners weed their garden? Weeds are just another type of plant except they are deemed 'ugly'...

My remark was due to confusion as to where your priorities lie with your tank. In the long run, yeah you'd probably want some nice looking floating plants such as some Red Root Floater for example, however if you are concentrating on the problem within this post then a quick solution would be to use the plant you already have in there. I do hope the UV light works out for you here, however it would be a shame to not find the route cause

 

[ian]

Mark, mbsqw1d has tried to help you a few times in this thread, and from what i am reading is trying to help again. I suggest you take the advice on board, rather than taking it as an insult.

 

[mark4785]

Hi again,

This is largely a reply to post 43 of this thread concerning dry ferts.

I'd really appreciate it if Supercoley (or any other person competent in the knowledge of nutrient chelating agents) could pin-point what and where I could source the various substances needed to make my own fertiliser composition (a composition containing macro-nutrients and traces). I always go to either eBay, Aquaessentials or Amazon to buy aquatic-related products so I was wondering if someone could identify a seller of substances which can be combined to make a good fertiliser.

I'm a little daunted at buying substances and putting them into the tank; how would I know if they are going to cause harm or whether or not they are suitable for use in an aquarium?

Also, how would I apply a dry fertiliser? I'm only getting information about it's application in soil. The only thing I've read about dry fertilisers are

1. They are solid rather than liquid
2. They are more likely to cause algae issues or be wasted unless embedded into substrate at root level.


I have started the blackout again and got the UV internal filter working. I'm going to follow Coldcazzies' and conduct the blackout for 5 days. I did a 70% WC prior to covering the tank with bin liners and I plan to do a similar WC at the end of the 5th day. My fingers are crossed!

Mark, mbsqw1d has tried to help you a few times in this thread, and from what i am reading is trying to help again. I suggest you take the advice on board, rather than taking it as an insult.

His comment was too ambiguous to be honest. The comment lacked detail and seemed to just put forward a notion that my tank couldn't possibly look any worse than it is; thats the only understanding I got from the post. Maybe I misunderstood.

What reason would you have for wanting to remove the cyanobacteria if you didn't think it looked bad?

Look, I don't think it looks bad. I simply find it irritating because it's very relentless in terms of growth and spreading. I am wanting to remove it as it's hazardous to water life and humans in some circumstances. It's also killing some the plants and creating a stench. I've never at any point said I dislike the way it looks; if that was the thing I disliked about it I don't think I'd be putting so much effort into removing it like I am at present.

and you'd be putting words in my mouth.

Sorry, I thought you were implying that my tank couldn't possibly be in a worse state. I never said you said it looked 'ugly' etc, I deduced that from your post as it seemed to imply it. I'm not the type of person to knowingly put false words in other people's mouthes so please forget that idea.

I suggest you re-phrase the misinterpreted post so I can better understand where your coming from.


Mark.

 

[coldcazzie]

Aquaessentials have dry ferts. That's where I got mine from. Nitrate and phosphate and you mix them with water (DI water if I'm to understand correctly, which I haven't been doing up til now as I didn't realise) and then you dose a certain ml of solution. Me I dose 120ml of nitrate solution and 20ml of phosphate whenever I dose, which gives 30 ppm nitrate and 2 ppm phosphate (ish). I also dose a capful of seachem flourish for trace. Doesn't have to be any more complicated than that.

 

[ian]

^^she's right, Mark. Cazzie is the only member in this thread who has dealt with such matter.

Hi again,

This is largely a reply to post 43 of this thread concerning dry ferts.

I'd really appreciate it if Supercoley (or any other person competent in the knowledge of nutrient chelating agents) could pin-point what and where I could source the various substances needed to make my own fertiliser composition (a composition containing macro-nutrients and traces). I always go to either eBay, Aquaessentials or Amazon to buy aquatic-related products so I was wondering if someone could identify a seller of substances which can be combined to make a good fertiliser.

I'm a little daunted at buying substances and putting them into the tank; how would I know if they are going to cause harm or whether or not they are suitable for use in an aquarium?

If you 'research' or even read the pinned thread on this forum, you will find your answers. Andy loves replying to your posts, but he's not always around you know.
from our pinned section...

http/www.fishforums.net/index.php?showtopic=104737&st=0

http/www.theplantedtank.co.uk/dosing-methods.htm

His comment was too ambiguous to be honest. The comment lacked detail and seemed to just put forward a notion that my tank couldn't possibly look any worse than it is; thats the only understanding I got from the post. Maybe I misunderstood.

maybe you did, because there is/was nothing ambiguous about that comment. Presumption maybe, but not ambiguous. I really do suggest you listen to everyone and not just one person, even though one persons advice is good, someone may just come through with a pearler.

you really should read into the other comments to much, mbsqw1d, has tried to help you twice in this thread and you have come across quite sharp towards him/her, lets forget about it and move on.

I really suggest that you research though, Mark.

 

[SuperColey1]

Which threads are you referring to?

http/www.fishforums.net/index.php?/topic/342207-fishless-cycle-lagg-stocking-question/page__p__2845420__fromsearch__1&#entry2845420

http/www.fishforums.net/index.php?/topic/336898-marks-fishless-cycle-log-add-wait-method/page__p__2799039__fromsearch__1&#entry2799039

http/www.fishforums.net/index.php?/topic/335658-bad-for-cycled-aquariums/page__p__2787521__fromsearch__1&#entry2787521

These aren't the ones I read but I am just going off the titles of the threads. It was within others in the planted section I was reading about cycling.

From the blurb on that substrate it seems to suggest that not only does it start a cycle off from its content but then seems to contradict this saying it removes what would start the cycle anyway.

I'd agree that something is removing the iron fairly quicklybut as already mentioned, if you deprive a plant of nutrients/light, which I have been doing when conducting a blackout, it will utilise the traces quicker when light is re-introduced. Whatsmore, my light source is ridicuously high so maybe the traces are being utilised by the plants or removed via W/C. I doubt the substrate has the capacity to continually neutralise the traces.

Your light isn't ridiculously high. It is just a lot more than you need for your aims. It is more than most 'need. however there are many people using more. IT does mean however that the setup needs to be 'uber efficient' and a good understandiong couple with experienced is necessary.

My light may only be 1.1WPG at amx but it is LED. That would more than likely (I have no PAR meter) equate to between 1.5 - 2x your level of lighting, however I have it a foot+ above the water surface and therefore it is diminished somewhat. It does help of course that I know my setup is on top form

Iron is 'removed' very quickly anyway hence my detail on chelators. think of the dechlor it is a chemical reaction that the 'nasties' attach to the ions in the dechlor within minutes pretty much. Iron is slower but iron sticks to the phosphates. Both are still there but are 'neutralised' so to speak once they are locked up via this process. Iron is slower like I say but if you dose 1ppm you can easily get a reading of 0 after just 3 or 4 hours. Doesn't mean however that the plants aren't getting what they need. They will consume it as fast as they can as this is a natural process and if they weren't adept at doing so they would have become extinct.

My German Blue Ram eats directly out of my hand and does not attempt to find food from the substrate. I make the burrows for the ram and he goes within them to go to sleep. I have seen him burrow before but it looked like he was doing it to rub the bottom part of his head (just in front of the gill) so I'm not sure he's attempting to burrow an hole; he's more just itching himself. German Blue Rams aren't bottom dwellers either so, I'm sorry but I don't see whats wrong with the substrate.

INo they are not bottom dwellers as you say. However you have a strange cichlid if he/she doesn't sift sand. Its natural. They only dig 'burrows' as a nest for their wrigglers once they have spawned. Normally on a smooth stone on the substrate and the 'pit' next to it. Again seems strange to me. Fish that aren't bottom dwellers normally 'sleep' in a normal 'in water' position. Never seen a Ram sleep on the substrate before. Maybe you've softened him/her up too much and he is like a dog now . lol.

Seems then from your observations and testing that the marketing team at Carib Sea have got carried away with false promises if it doesn't remove nitrates when they say it does. Something to watch out for in the future.

blanketweed will not be afected by CO2 in the water. floating plants don't need CO2 in the water. Thats why they have evolved to float. they take CO2 directly from the air, surface. Thats also why so many floating plants are so hard to kill. Trap them in a net and tie to a stone they will then struggle like all plants under the water.

I think you misunderstood me earlier or I am reading too quickly again. lol. CO2 lowers the Ph. Super saturated water will be lower. Phosphates raise the Ph. I would thinkg that the water companies won't rely on 1 thing to maintain their just above neutral Ph. That could go wrong to easily. I would think they use several ethods in conjucntion both lowering and raising to stabilise the level.

Thankfully the internal filter with UV-C has arrived. I will pop that in on Thursday and start a 6 day blackout. The blackouts are making my Egeria densa' look really frail and where the cyanobactera has took hold on my Limnophila, the leaves are looking more pale. I guess I will need a few more plants after the blackout!

I was aware that it floated too but I thought it look a little out of place. For instance, water lilies or water lettuce look like more genuine floaters which don't look out of place. But an ageria densa stalk on it's side? Floating? Ugh... *goes outside, rips conifer up, flips it 90 degrees, and places it onto a lake surface*.

I agree however the fish will be thinking the opposite to your description. We are taking a floating plant and 'uprighting it'. lol

Lilys are fine if you prefer them but they do get big and you will be well advised to chop a few leaves off every now and again to let some light in.

This was my Ram's tank:

I'm a little daunted at buying substances and putting them into the tank; how would I know if they are going to cause harm or whether or not they are suitable for use in an aquarium?

Also, how would I apply a dry fertiliser? I'm only getting information about it's application in soil. The only thing I've read about dry fertilisers are

1. They are solid rather than liquid
2. They are more likely to cause algae issues or be wasted unless embedded into substrate at root level.

They are easy Mark. However it is easier to make 2 seperate mixes 1 for macros and 1 for micros. If you try and do an all in one you have to add several other components to stop the phosphate and iron reacting.

When we talk about drp ferts most of us are actually mixing them up with DeIonised water to make solutions. Some do add the powders directly but that is trickier IMO. diluting into DI water and then using a syring or measuring cup to dose is easier that measuring out dry weights in such small quantities.

Also if you are using a solution then there is much less chance of ODing. Not that you will be ODing to a toxic level but if it can be avoided then its something to avoid.

Read the EI article in the pin. Then you just buy KNO3 (Potassium NItrate), KH2PO4 (Potassium Phosphate) and a trace mix. Follow the mixing instructions i.e.(I am trying to remember off top of my head so read the EI article first

Macro solution:
33g KNO3 and 7.2g KH2PO4 into 250ml DI water

Micro Solution
10g Trace mix into 250ml water.

If you want to get a little more iron in there you can buy 8% EDTA/DPTA mixes off ebay however for the price I would send you enough for a year for the price of a stamp. You only need 3g and add it ot the trace mix.

Those mixes at say (I am guessing what you would add for your purposes) 2ml macro 3 x a wek and 1ml micros
3 x a wek would mean the macro mix would last for 125 days and the micro mix for 250 days!!! When you take into account the price of the ferts in the first place at say £25 (For 100g bags of each) then you are looking at macro solution bottle (125 days) costing £3 per mix and the micros (250 days) £1 per mix.

So that £25 or so gets you 10 micros mixes (2500 days) and 3-4 macros mixes (500+ days). That measn £25 dry ferts = circa £100 of premium credible premade fertiliser

The other advantage. If you decide you have too much nitrate then you can reduce it when you remix etc. Once you get into it you can tailor the mixes to suit your tank, your water and your plants' needs.

EI is basically that on days 1,3 & 5 you dose macros. On days 2,4 & 6 you dose micros. On day 7 you do a 50% water change to 'reset' the tank and then start again.

I dose daily but it shouldn't matter to much if you don't. I would continue adding plants though. Loads of plants may look like no room for fish but see the pic above. It doesn't have to be all on the substrate. Plants provide security and safety both in terms of hiding places, more natural appearance for the fish and of course a superb natural filtration system on top of the actual filter and substrate.

Here are 2 sources for powders:
http/www.aquaessentials.co.uk/dry-fertilisers-powders-c-414_145_146.html
http/www.fluidsensoronline.com/zen/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=93_65_69

Also please don't 'pinpoint' any one person as you've done here. It will end up alienating others. I am no Tom Barr, far from it and I learn from others on here just as you do. I may know a lot of this stuff in depth but it doesn't mean that others don't also. What I know may be more than others, what I don't they are strong on. Also sometimes my thinking can be corrected by others who are stronger on particular areas. We can all help and there is no 'guru league position' here We are all equal number 1 (however I might change my username to something beginning with AA if there was

As for the if things are suitable for chemicals you are simply adding nitrate, potassium and phosphate plus basic trace mineral (metals). You are adding what is already in your tap water but topping it up over the week. IF you are worried about these chemicals at the EI levels then you would already be using some heavy detox equipment before water changes

And as said above MArk. Research lodas but make sure its goo research. I read all sorts but I can see what is bad and what is good. Places like Barrreport, here and The Krib are excellent sources of material on this subject. Pretty in depth and also you may find stuff (especially on the Krib) that is very old and would support many of the arguments your LFS may say, however it is wuite important to check the dates. Thinking on Aquatic plants a decade ago was much different to now in every aspect from nutrients, water quality right through to lights and times etc.

I find it quite important though to read those articles even though I can clearly se they are wrong because it puts into perspective the advances. Think of it like choosing to support Chelsea because they are the champions without knowing their past and how they got to where they are. I like to have the best iformation in my hands but I also like to see how the information got to the stage it is now and where it came from etc. i.e. Johnny 5)

AC

 

[mark4785]

I really suggest that you research though, Mark.

I do have that ability, and have said I have the ability to research and have explained why I feel I need an explanation from a more competent person as I'm anxious about reading something and not understanding it fully which may result in me using something hazardous in a fertiliser concotion.. If you had read my posts in full you wouldn't be advicing me in such a way.. You seem to be giving a lot of suggestions without reading, in full, what I have posted Ianho.

If you are unable to appreciate my anxiety towards something I've never tried before I'm not sure are relationship is going to last very long to be honest. I mean the whole purpose of this thread was to ask for help and you're more or less telling me to go away and read into things I wouldn't want to put into practice if it involves wildlife without some reassurance. I have now read into EI dosing, after SuperColey explained what it was via this forum. If I had read about EI on my own and not been introduced to it here I wouldn't ever trust myself to try and use it in an aquarium, nor trust that the article knows what it's talking about.

I really do suggest you listen to everyone and not just one person

I am listening to everyone who replies and very much value their feedback providing its not off-topic and providing the comments don't contain subtle insults. I'm entitled to listen to one person more often though who ever that person maybe.

 

[mark4785]

Thanks again for the input Supercoley.

I have been to Aqua essentials and I'm going to buy various macro/micro powders from there. Again, I'm a bit of a newb in this area so I have one question regarding chelating agents:

1. Are the different forms of chelating agent specific to micro-nutrients only?

The reason I ask is because I'm looking to dose the most effective form of chelate and I'm often finding that details about the chelate used is only divulged where the item being sold is a form of micro-nutrient.

I have been looking for suitable containers to keep the dissolved powders in. Will something like this suffice? It holds 250ml as adviced by the document of James' planted tank.

Aqua essentials seems to imply that DI water is the best thing to dissolve the powders in but it doesn't rule out using tap water. Could I just use tap water containing Aqua safe de-chlorinator or should I stay clear of tap water?

Lastly, on the dosing calculator webpage provided at the James' planted tank website (found here), it lets you know, based on the EI regime, what ppm level of macro-nutrient is recommended (recommendations are found under 'What ppm values do I need' sub-title). Based on those recommendations I've manipulated the calculator to indicate how many table spoons of macros I would need to add 3x a week if the macros are dissolved in 250ml of water. But it's left me in the dark when it comes to dosing micro-nutrients so I'm a little confused as to what would be a reasonable starting point.

 

[SuperColey1]

No need to buy containers. I use old chinese takeaway tubs (the rectangular [plastic ones) for the powders. Any bottle will do for the solutions. Coke bottles will be fine, just wash them out.

I suggest you get some syringes for dosing. Makes things easier. I use 2 types. 1 is a 10ml one with 0.5ml increments. The other is a 3ml one with 0.1ml increments.

For the macros you can use tap water without problem. The only difference is that the tap water will already contain NPK and therefore:

If I used my tapwaterI would be making up a solution aimed at say 30ppm nitrate yet it will actually be 42ppm due to the nitrate already in the tap water. Same with phosphate and Potassium. This isn't a worry at all. These ppms are no where near toxic.

However if you use tapwater in the trace bottle then you will be putting the traces into a bottle alongside phospahates and therefore as the trace solution may be in the bottle for a month, 2 months etc it will not matter what checlators are used. By the time a week or so is gone the phosphate will have reacted.

Therefore if you need DI for the micros you may as well use DI for the macros too.

Forget about 'efficient' chelators. As before I was just detailing why iron test kits are pretty misleading in their results.

All the traces you find on AE or elsewher will most definately be EDTA. this is pretty weak but you are going to be dosing every 2 days so shouldn't be a problem. If overly worried then they do sell 50g mixes of 8% EDTA/D{PTA. however in that trace bottle you would only be adding 3g (plus the 10g trace.)

dechlor wouldn't make any difference to the tap water in the solution bottles. I add a litre of tap water a day to my tank to tup up from evaporation but I do not add dechlor to it. I only use dechlor for water changes not for small amounts.

Lastly I would forget about calculators until you get the hang of things. Just go by the recipe on James' page and then dose the amount for the range that your tank volume fits into (total volume and not 'after water displacement')

I would suggest you would be able to use James' PMDD+PO4 for your setup which is vastly lower in terms of excess than EI. May make you feel a little less anxious about how much you are adding.

Chealtors are only to do with traces. They are to do with keeping metals in a useable form. metals change form i.e. iron turns into rust etc. The chelator tries to hold the metal in its usable state for as long as possible.

Remember the targets on that EI sheet are just targets. To alter it to suit different tanks involves knowing the uptake rates etc and that is seriously in depth. I would suggest just to choose PMDD+PO4 or EI and follow the dosing for your tank range by the letter. Then do the 50% water change for EI or 20% for PMDD+PO4 which will 'reset' the tank ready for the next week.

AC

 

[mark4785]

No need to buy containers. I use old chinese takeaway tubs (the rectangular [plastic ones) for the powders. Any bottle will do for the solutions. Coke bottles will be fine, just wash them out.

I suggest you get some syringes for dosing. Makes things easier. I use 2 types. 1 is a 10ml one with 0.5ml increments. The other is a 3ml one with 0.1ml increments.

For the macros you can use tap water without problem. The only difference is that the tap water will already contain NPK and therefore:

If I used my tapwaterI would be making up a solution aimed at say 30ppm nitrate yet it will actually be 42ppm due to the nitrate already in the tap water. Same with phosphate and Potassium. This isn't a worry at all. These ppms are no where near toxic.

However if you use tapwater in the trace bottle then you will be putting the traces into a bottle alongside phospahates and therefore as the trace solution may be in the bottle for a month, 2 months etc it will not matter what checlators are used. By the time a week or so is gone the phosphate will have reacted.

Therefore if you need DI for the micros you may as well use DI for the macros too.

Forget about 'efficient' chelators. As before I was just detailing why iron test kits are pretty misleading in their results.

All the traces you find on AE or elsewher will most definately be EDTA. this is pretty weak but you are going to be dosing every 2 days so shouldn't be a problem. If overly worried then they do sell 50g mixes of 8% EDTA/D{PTA. however in that trace bottle you would only be adding 3g (plus the 10g trace.)

dechlor wouldn't make any difference to the tap water in the solution bottles. I add a litre of tap water a day to my tank to tup up from evaporation but I do not add dechlor to it. I only use dechlor for water changes not for small amounts.

Lastly I would forget about calculators until you get the hang of things. Just go by the recipe on James' page and then dose the amount for the range that your tank volume fits into (total volume and not 'after water displacement')

I would suggest you would be able to use James' PMDD+PO4 for your setup which is vastly lower in terms of excess than EI. May make you feel a little less anxious about how much you are adding.

Chealtors are only to do with traces. They are to do with keeping metals in a useable form. metals change form i.e. iron turns into rust etc. The chelator tries to hold the metal in its usable state for as long as possible.

Remember the targets on that EI sheet are just targets. To alter it to suit different tanks involves knowing the uptake rates etc and that is seriously in depth. I would suggest just to choose PMDD+PO4 or EI and follow the dosing for your tank range by the letter. Then do the 50% water change for EI or 20% for PMDD+PO4 which will 'reset' the tank ready for the next week.

AC

I will buy some DI water or something which makes it based on what you're saying. I have found this product on eBay which claims to make DI water. Do you know if things like that product are a bit of a gimmick?

On James' website, under the heading 'what ppm values do I need', how do I know when I've achieved the recommended ppm concentration (8ppm of nitrate x 3 per week and 2ppm of phosphate x 3 per week) in my aquarium? Do I solely rely on the calculator on James' website to work out how I achieve those concentrations?

Also, how long should I leave the trace mix solution and macro solution in 250ml of DI water? Will it eventually need completely washing out and the solution renewing or is there no expiry period?

You have said that EDTA is quite weak and suggested putting supplementary DPTA into the trace mix. Wouldn't that confuse things in terms of knowing how much ppm I am adding into the aquarium or is adding more nutrients just not something to worry about?

I have looked into PMDD+PO4 (the version in which traces and macros are separate) dosing regime on James' website and it seems to involve additional substances to those involved in EI dosing; Magnesium Sulphate Heptahydrate and Potassium Sulphate are not substances which I purchased when I was thinking about gathering the things needed to do EI dosing. PMDD+P04 seems more appealing as you dose both macro and micro nutrients daily; the effect of dosing more frequently will ensure all nutrients are topped up and maintained at a reasonable level, particularly nitrate, which when low supposedly prompts cyanobacteria. So that is why PMDD+P04 is more appealing.

I'm actually dosing both macro and micro nutrients each day with the EasyLife range at the moment; I've dosed the following in the 2 days in which the tank as been uncovered:

Day 1 dosing (14/12/10): 10ml of Profito (iron, potassium), 10ml of Fosfo/Phosphate (increases phosphate level by 0.1 ppm per 500 litres; my tank is 120 litres) and 10ml Nitro/Nitrate (10ml per 500 litres increases no3 by 2.0 ppm).

Day 2 water test: 10 ppm of nitrate. Haven't tested iron or phosphate as results are probably not accurate. My guess is that there would have been very small levels of iron as plants will have consumed it very quickly after 5 day blackout and phosphate would have been utilised quickly too. Given this, my gut feeling was to re-add both forms of nutrients again:

Day 2 dosing (15/12/10): 2.5ml of Profito (Maybe not enough was dosed here, but 10ml of Profito, as dosed on day 1 is supposed to last 7 days according to EasyLife), 5ml of Fosfo and 10ml of Nitro.

Once the EDTA substances arrive in the post I will trial the EI dosing method but I'm a little concerned that due to my high lighting and water properties, the nutrients ought to be added daily as per the PMDD+PO4 method; is it possible to use EI nutrients on a daily basis or would I have to switch to using PMDD+PO4-specific nutrient compositions to do this?

Tank feedback

Just thought I'd comment on the progress of the tank after being covered up for 5 days:

1. The cyanobacteria has completely disappeared and hasn't started to form during day 2.
2. The UV light (a part of the internal filter I bought) fused the power and will not power up anymore.
3. The white spores I mentioned have gone; nothing but bubbles floating around now
4. Noticed two snails in the tank going across the glass; help?!
5. Small amount of greeny/brown algae formed on the glass pane during day 2 near the bottom of my cryptocoryne broad leaves plant; maybe caused by a circulation issue? The algae is seemingly growing near the corner of the tank where there is the least amount of water movement.

6. There are bits of dead algae moving around the substrate. I'm a bit hesitant to disturb the substrate to get rid of it, here's why:

- Ammonium can get trapped in the substrate, and after avoiding 5 days of gravel vacs due to the blackout, the API total-ammonia test indicates 0 ppm for the first time. Gravel-vacs may be causing ammonium to flow into the water column. Note: my Seachem ammonia test kit always indicates 0 ppm of free ammonia.

7. I've ordered 8 strands of elodea densa which I will float on the water surface so that the light intensity is more reasonable. I've had to throw away my other elodea's after the blackout as they looked dreadful.

 

[SuperColey1]

I will buy some DI water or something which makes it based on what you're saying. I have found this product on eBay which claims to make DI water. Do you know if things like that product are a bit of a gimmick?

I would suggest gimmick. for the £4 it costs for more DI than you'll ever need I don't think its really worth it.

On James' website, under the heading 'what ppm values do I need', how do I know when I've achieved the recommended ppm concentration (8ppm of nitrate x 3 per week and 2ppm of phosphate x 3 per week) in my aquarium? Do I solely rely on the calculator on James' website to work out how I achieve those concentrations?

Forget testing or measuring. The reason it is called 'Estimitibe Index' is that it is estimating.

The quantities to dose against the tank sizes estimates that you are adding the target to the water. It does not measure an accumulation. It doesn't need to. We are excess dosing and not trying to measure uptake etc. We do not have the laboratories in our houses needed to do that

So we add those quantities daily and assume we are at or above the target and then forget about testing anything. Just sit and watch the tank.

PMDD+PO4 is a good regime. I used to use it but got quite difficult due to the ridiculous amount of plant mass I have in my scape(s.)

However I think it would be ideal for you

I wouldn't worry about the regime of daily dosing vs bi daily dosing vs weekly etc.

They are guidelines. You can dose EI daily. I do Just add up the 3 days worth of dose and then divide by 7 and dose that daily instead of the alternate days.

Also, how long should I leave the trace mix solution and macro solution in 250ml of DI water? Will it eventually need completely washing out and the solution renewing or is there no expiry period?

They won't go off so don't worry. Some people keep their trace in the fridge but that is to avoid mould. I keep mine in the cabinet under the fish tank.

You have said that EDTA is quite weak and suggested putting supplementary DPTA into the trace mix. Wouldn't that confuse things in terms of knowing how much ppm I am adding into the aquarium or is adding more nutrients just not something to worry about?

Don't worry about levels and ppms. Just follow whichever regime you choose and trust it to be right once you have assured yourself it is correct.

YES we have a target and we don't worry too much if we are over target. Only if we are under target. The water changes and chemical reactions within the tank take care of the rest.

I have looked into PMDD+PO4 (the version in which traces and macros are separate) dosing regime on James' website and it seems to involve additional substances to those involved in EI dosing; Magnesium Sulphate Heptahydrate and Potassium Sulphate are not substances which I purchased when I was thinking about gathering the things needed to do EI dosing. PMDD+P04 seems more appealing as you dose both macro and micro nutrients daily; the effect of dosing more frequently will ensure all nutrients are topped up and maintained at a reasonable level, particularly nitrate, which when low supposedly prompts cyanobacteria. So that is why PMDD+P04 is more appealing.

These last 2 are available in the shops. Magnesium Sulphate is Epsom Salts. Should be able to pick this up in a supermarket.

AC

 

[mark4785]

Just i'd let everyone know that the cyanobacteria is history now .

The one thing that worries me is not knowing precisely what caused it to form in the first place. I have a strong urge to believe the TPN+ that I used (which most probably added a lot of NO3 as well as a 0.25 ammonium concentration) indirectly caused cyanobacteria to form when I removed it in reponse to thinking that the 0.25 ppm of ammonium was hazardous. Perhaps if cyano forms in response to starvation of such nutrients, there is a risk of it forming when W/C are conducted as W/C are primarily conducted to remove nutrients right?

I'm continuing nutrient dosing with the EasyLife range. I'm finding I need to add 10ml of Profito, 5-10 ml of phosphate and anywhere between 2.5ml and 10ml of Nitrate per day in order to encourage fast and vibrant growth. The iron is so quick at being absorbed (I know my test kit may be not giving me a true picture of the iron content but it's a good guide) that 10ml of profito goes back to 0ppm within 24 hours. However, the phosphate and nitrate are slower at being removed down to the 0ppm mark.

I'm not so concerned about adding excess Fosfo (phosphate), but I am concerned about adding excess Nitro (Nitrate) since the nitrate level has gradually increased from 15ppm to 20ppm over the last 3 days; why isn't it being utilised by the plants instead?

 

[JoshuaA]

Now it's gone...

What has changed since you had it at its worst?

Lighting/Dosages etc?

 

[shasm]

Congratulations, I know you worked hard to get rid of it. I'm glad for you. How many plants did you lose from the blackouts?