Cloudy Fish Tank Fish, Shrimps And Snails At Tip Of Tank.

[gavinchapman65]

Hi all,

First time tank owner here looking for some advice.

We bought our Marina 60 (litre) tank set up 4 weeks ago. We added substrate and two logs with plants. Over these two weeks we had an issue with nitrites but this settled after 1.5 weeks and we added 4 Guppys, 3 shrimp, assassin snails and a freshwater clam at the start of the second week.

Everything was fine till about 3 days ago. A guppy died (tail rot) i removed it as soon as discovered. Yesterday the clam passed on. We noticed the fish were at the top of the tank and there were some very strange thin worms on the side of the tank. Also some tiny specs in the water that appeared to be moving around. After removing the clam we done a 20% change (using Tapsafe) and vacuumed the substrate. We added 4 balls of Pure Aquarium. The filters were covered in this horrible slimy stuff as was the sponge on the inlet. I replaced two filters and cleaned the sponge.

Today the tank has now become really cloudy and the fish, snails and shrimp are still at the top of the tank. The water was tested and Ammonia is fine but the nitrites are high. The worms and specs seem to have gone.

From my research i believe we have a bacterial bloom caused by the the deaths. Does this sound like a fair conclusion? My next move was going to be doing a 50% water change with another vacuum. does this sound like a good idea or what would be a better idea...

Many thanks

Gavin

 

[mattyeatsmatts]

Firstly you should have cycled. Adding livestock so soon is harmful for them so in future take a look at the beginners centre on this forum.

Secondly, shrimps are sensitive to any amounts of ammonia(fish waste) and nitrites that build up if a tank is not cycled.

The cloudy water is indeed a bacterial bloom where bacteria is starting to colonise in your water column and is taking al lot of the Oxygen out of the water, resulting in the fish have less to breath. This is indicated by them staying at the surface of the tank and maybe "gasping".

try adjusting your filter outlet so that it disturbs to water surface causing agitation, and this will allow more oxygen to be deposited into the water.

One tip: stop cleaning the substrate so much. Bacteria that converts fish waste which is essential in the tanks cycle lives there, using the vaccum is just disturbing it.

EDIT: Also, snails at the surface is an indication that your tank water is bad quality.

 

[phoenixgsd]

The filters were covered in this horrible slimy stuff as was the sponge on the inlet. I replaced two filters and cleaned the sponge.

The water was tested and Ammonia is fine but the nitrites are high. The worms and specs seem to have gone.

how did you clean the filter? also what was your exact readings, how high were your nitrites

 

[gavinchapman65]

Thanks for you replies.

I think I have made a hat full of errors and also found a dead shrimp this morning and removed. Hopefully i can be an example for other newbs starting out.

In regards to the cycle we didnt do this as wasnt aware. Having bought the tank from a large national chain we were told that as soon as the readings were ok we could pop in the fish. They were ok so we popped the fish in. As i suspect you have seen lots of times we were completely unprepared.

Now we are playing catch up.

Our filtration system takes cartridges and i replaced 2 of the 3 and rinsed the new ones under the tap before placing in. A mistake i believe as i probably should just cleaned the gunk off the old ones as now these filter need to build up the bacteria.

I don't have the readings as this was done in a shop but not the same one as we bought it the tank in. He said it was high though.I will be getting a testing kit in the next couple of days.

I plan to do a 50% change tonight and then every night for the next few days until the level has dropped off. I was planning to do this via cleaning the substrate, as yesterday was the first time i have done it whilst its been in the tank. Good idea?

Thanks

Gavin

 

[Gilli]

Firstly you need to be doing 90% water changes if you dont want to lose more fish. NEVER EVER rinse any filter material under the tap as you will kill the bacteria you need to make your tank safe for the fish. Always rinse in used tank water and always use decholorinated water for the same reasons - tap water kills the bacteria needed.

You will be needing to test your water on a daily basis. As you are doing a fish in cycle you will need to do water changes every day for between 4-6 weeks, this is how long a tank takes to become properly cycled and non toxic to your fish! This is why most people choose to fishless cycle - not only is it kinder to the fish but its much less work for you! Cut right back on feeding while your tank is cycling.

Read up on everything you need to know on this link in this forum and good luck!!

Beginners resource center

 

[gavinchapman65]

Thanks for the replies guys.

Two questions that i cannot seem to find answers to are cleaning gravel and prep of the water you are changing.

I have read that i should be cleaning my gravel weekly but i have also read that you shouldnt due to removal of good bacteria. thoughts?

Also how should the water i am going to be adding be prepared? I have been using a 10 litre bucket filling it with London tap water (a hard water) and then adding a dechlorinator. I usually let it stand for a little while to warm up. Sound good?

With a 10 litre bucket (i have a 60 litre tank) is it even possible to do a 90% cycle? If so what would be the best method?

 

[phoenixgsd]

ammonia will build up in your gravel with fish poop and left over food, because your filter isnt cycled the ammonia will build untill it kills your fish, i had gravel for my fish in cycle and vaccumed it more or less daily when i did my daily water change, the bulk of bacteria growth is in your filter, thats why you shouldnt really wash or change a filter unless you really have to, and even then you rinse it in old tank water, most of us syphon out water in to a bucket or sink then syphon temperature matched dechlorinated water back in from a clean or new bucket, i bought a large plastic storage container from a pound shop for this purpose you can warm the water up by adding warm tap water to your bucket

 

[Bugdozer]

I have read that i should be cleaning my gravel weekly but i have also read that you shouldnt due to removal of good bacteria.

You'll find a lot of conflicting advice here, tbh. Just choose which you prefer.

 

[Gilli]

Phoenixghd is right - the bacteria is all in the filter- there is a little that grows on the gravel but its more important to get rid of your fish poo and uneaten food or this will push your ammonia and nitrites up and make it more toxic for your fish. Cleaning the gravel wont slow your cycling down much.

To calculate a 90% water change measure how much water one bucket holds, then count the number of buckets you use to remove that much water - then you can calculate how much dechlorinator you need for the water change. You can put all of the decholorinator needed in the first bucket to fill the tank then carry on filling it wont harm anything. Also it doesnt have to be an exact doseage as long as its enough - you cant overdose so put more in than you think to make sure. The replacement water doesnt need to be the exact same temperature as the water in the tank, just judge it by hand - it wont harm the fish if its a bit colder.

 

[gavinchapman65]

Thanks guys for you advice. I done a 50% change around 7pm tonight and the fish seem to be really happy and still swimming at the bottom of the tank. I cleaned the substrate and will continue as seems the most logical. Hey i could well be wrong.

Will keep a report of the progress as may help other people in the future.

Will keep the daily change of water up for the next few weeks and as soon as i get a kit (this week) i will post the results with it.

Thanks

Gavin

 

[drobbyb]

Keep in mind, this is a public discussion forum and anyone can register and post. When you ask a question, it is usually best to wait for a few replies. Most often if someone gives a tidbit of bad advice, someone with more experience will pop in and give the correct advice shortly thereafter.

Back on topic, food and other debris settles on and in the gravel. When this stuff decays, it releases ammonia which is toxic to fish. It's best to remove it with a gravel vacuum before it becomes a problem and poisons your fish. After your filter has matured, you can go for longer periods, but you will still want to vacuum your gravel regularly.

 

[gavinchapman65]

Keep in mind, this is a public discussion forum and anyone can register and post. When you ask a question, it is usually best to wait for a few replies. Most often if someone gives a tidbit of bad advice, someone with more experience will pop in and give the correct advice shortly thereafter.

Back on topic, food and other debris settles on and in the gravel. When this stuff decays, it releases ammonia which is toxic to fish. It's best to remove it with a gravel vacuum before it becomes a problem and poisons your fish. After your filter has matured, you can go for longer periods, but you will still want to vacuum your gravel regularly.

Thanks drobbyb, thats good advice but i do appreciate all that have replied. If nothing else it gets me thinking and researching everything.

I have vacuumed everytime i have changed the water this week and will continue to do so as part of the maintenance cycle.

Getting the testing pack tomorrow so will post my results as i do it. Done a 25% change yesterday and again today. Fish a million times happier (i asked them) and no longer gasping at the surface. Tough little buggers the Guppys!

 

[gavinchapman65]

Hi again,

Here are my first test results...

PH = 7.6
Ammonia = 0.5ppm
Nitrite = 0.25ppm
Nitrate = 20ppm

The tank cycling continues.....

 

[the_lock_man]

Ammonia at 0.5ppm is highly toxic to the fish. Probably less so than they were experiencing, so anything is a relief for them, but still that level IS toxic. IMHO, anything other than 0ppm is bad for the fish, but in practical terms, there is a "limit" of 0.25ppm which is considered an acceptable level whilst cycling.

I strongly recommend that you do a 75% water change. That will take the ammonia level down to something like 0.12, which will hopefully be enough to keep the ammonia and nitrite under the 0.25ppm limit until you can test and water-change again tomorrow.