ooohhhh those look like nice and bushy plants!
Breeding Corydoras Hastatus (Fry Pictures!)
- Thread starter OliveFish05
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Just what the little guys want to swim through. Fish always want to try to protect their eggs, so they like putting them in places no other fish is going to find them.
I'll make some comments which will partly repeat what has been suggested, and likely add.
First, you will not likely get any fry if you leave the fish to spawn in a tank with other fish. All fish will devour any egg they find, and given the cory method of spawning the aquarist is very unlikely to be sitting there when each egg is placed in order to rescue it. Move the three cories to the 10g, on their own. I posted some photos this morning in your older thread of my pygmies in a 10g, there were more than 20 fry survived over several months and that was with no interference from me.
Second, put dried leaves in the tank. These decompose and produce copious amounts of infusoria which is the first food of any fry. I added no other "fry" food, just shrimp pellets for the adults, and the fry grazed the leaves and quickly learned about the shrimp pellets. Note, dried leaves, never fresh. Leaves that have fallen from the tree (as in autumn) and then completely dried. If the collection site is safe from pesticides, chemicals, etc, just rinse the leaf under the tap and when dry bag them and add a few to the tank. Most hard wood is safe, oak is ideal, also maple, beech; Indian Almond leaves can be bought in some fish stores.
Chunks of bogwood and plants will encourage "critters" and that is more good food. Any plants that will grow in your tank are fine. Floating plants are good because they are "ammonia sinks" but they also shade the light which tends to calm most fish. Alder cones add tannins and may help lower the pH (not suggesting this is necessary, just it might occur, depending upon the GH/KH/pH of the source water).
You must have a substrate of sand. No fish should be in a bare-bottom tank, it is stressful because it is unnatural, they can see reflections and they cannot filter feed. It is also biologically risky; the substrate sand is the primary and most important filter/bacteria bed in a fish tank.
I've no idea of the flow from the filter, but I suspect it is more than you really want; I use a single sponge filter (connected to air pump) in my smaller tanks, everything up to the 40g, just to provide gentle water movement. This description of the natural habitats of this species is instructive as to its need for quiet waters:
Temperature in the range of 20-25C/68-77F.
No cory eats plant/vegetable/algae so do not feed veggie foods. Insects and insect larvae form the primary natural diet, along with small crustaceans and worms, C. hastatus is slightly different in that it is partially adapted to forage on pelagic zooplankton, meaning a diet containing plenty of live or frozen Daphnia, Artemia, and suchlike is recommended. The mini size of Bug Bites (they will sink and settle on leaves, wood, substrate) is ideal, along with shrimp pellets (I recommend Omega One), frozen daphnia (thawed first, it will sink too).
First, you will not likely get any fry if you leave the fish to spawn in a tank with other fish. All fish will devour any egg they find, and given the cory method of spawning the aquarist is very unlikely to be sitting there when each egg is placed in order to rescue it. Move the three cories to the 10g, on their own. I posted some photos this morning in your older thread of my pygmies in a 10g, there were more than 20 fry survived over several months and that was with no interference from me.
Second, put dried leaves in the tank. These decompose and produce copious amounts of infusoria which is the first food of any fry. I added no other "fry" food, just shrimp pellets for the adults, and the fry grazed the leaves and quickly learned about the shrimp pellets. Note, dried leaves, never fresh. Leaves that have fallen from the tree (as in autumn) and then completely dried. If the collection site is safe from pesticides, chemicals, etc, just rinse the leaf under the tap and when dry bag them and add a few to the tank. Most hard wood is safe, oak is ideal, also maple, beech; Indian Almond leaves can be bought in some fish stores.
Chunks of bogwood and plants will encourage "critters" and that is more good food. Any plants that will grow in your tank are fine. Floating plants are good because they are "ammonia sinks" but they also shade the light which tends to calm most fish. Alder cones add tannins and may help lower the pH (not suggesting this is necessary, just it might occur, depending upon the GH/KH/pH of the source water).
You must have a substrate of sand. No fish should be in a bare-bottom tank, it is stressful because it is unnatural, they can see reflections and they cannot filter feed. It is also biologically risky; the substrate sand is the primary and most important filter/bacteria bed in a fish tank.
I've no idea of the flow from the filter, but I suspect it is more than you really want; I use a single sponge filter (connected to air pump) in my smaller tanks, everything up to the 40g, just to provide gentle water movement. This description of the natural habitats of this species is instructive as to its need for quiet waters:
Has mostly been collected from marginal channels, backwaters, swamps, floodplain lakes, and smaller tributaries containing shallow, clear-to-turbid water with substrates of mud and clay. Some habitats contain no vegetation while others feature dense growths of submerged grasses, aquatic or floating plants such as Eichhornia or Pistia.
Temperature in the range of 20-25C/68-77F.
No cory eats plant/vegetable/algae so do not feed veggie foods. Insects and insect larvae form the primary natural diet, along with small crustaceans and worms, C. hastatus is slightly different in that it is partially adapted to forage on pelagic zooplankton, meaning a diet containing plenty of live or frozen Daphnia, Artemia, and suchlike is recommended. The mini size of Bug Bites (they will sink and settle on leaves, wood, substrate) is ideal, along with shrimp pellets (I recommend Omega One), frozen daphnia (thawed first, it will sink too).
OP
OP
Well mine is also Manzanita, which has very little tannins to begin with. I planned on using Indian Almond leaves to get the tannins?
OP
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Ok! Would Hornwort or Anacharis be good too?
OP
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Ok! I would definitely feel better not having to move eggs!
Ok! That is very interesting, like the fry's own little food source! I plan to use Indian Almond Leaves
Alright. I am getting some Water Lettuce and Anacharis next time I go to my LFS (they were all out yesterday unfortunately, but are getting a plant shipment soon) Do these plants sound alright? I will look on Ebay for some bogwood!
That is perfect! I have a very fine sand substrate. I have never liked the idea of a bare bottom tank, so I am glad the sand will work!
Ok. I can look into my filter situation some more. My filter does have an adjustable flow, and the sponge over the intake slows it down even more so it is pretty gentle water movement, and I could position plants and driftwood to create areas with even less water movement, but I will likely buy a sponge filter as a backup for emergencies
Hmmmmm ok. So I will get some mini bug bites, shrimp pellets, and frozen daphnia. Thank you for all your help!
Water Sprite is probably one of the best aquarium plants, as it floats and is a rapid grower. It is easy to keep under control however; adventitious plants form on alternate fronds (being a true fern, it technically has fronds not leaves but they look like leaves!) and these can be gently pulled off the frond and will grow as independent plants; the larger plant can be discarded or used in another tank, it will easily cover the entire surface if left. Ceratopteris cornuta is the species that does best floating, but the others are good too.
I have no luck with most stem plants (insufficient light primarily) so I leave them alone. The Malaysian Driftwood is an excellent wood, available in some fish stores and online. It is very dark brown, heavy so it sinks without having to be soaked, and usually not bad with tannins though that doesn't really matter but some dislike them. Each piece being natural is different so it is easy to create an interesting aquascape.
OP
OP
Wonderful! I adore water sprite, the leaves are lovely. I have high lighting, but I can dim the brightness, and will have lots of floating plants. My LFS had ridiculous prices on drftwood, so I will order some online!
Do you think I could get these online?
yes. manzanita is the bush with smooth and red wood right?
that works
OP
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OP
I would recommend looking on Ebay!
OP
OP
Would Hikari Freeze Dried Brine Shrimp and Daphnia be good along with Shrimp Pellets?
ehhh
i guess, but maybe bloodworms is better/
OP
OP
I have some freeze dried bloodworms, would all those be good?
No. Freeze dried foods are too risky, I will explain tomorrow, I am on my phone now and this keyboard is too cumbersome. Frozen is OK, not freeze dried. Also, bloodworms should only be fed once a week.
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