Beginner Set Up And Research Notes - Is This All Ok?

[jenni8888]

So I had to delay setting up my aquarium for a few weeks and I am just going through all my research and consolidating it all.

It is quite long but I would appreciate feedback and any corrections before I start the process.


Fish tank set up specifications:
Elite Stingray 54 litre aquarium
Sun glo fluorescent bulb
Stingray 10 filter (with spare filter cartridge and foam)
50w marina heater
*Need to get a thermometer* - any suggestions?
API Freshwater Master Test Kit
Seachem Prime (dechlorinator)
Ammonia
*Need to get plants, rocks and decorations*
Aquatic compost
*Need to get aquatic plant fertilisers*
Play sand
Aquatic Mopani? wood
Fish food
Gravel cleaner
Fish net
Algar glass cleaner
Plug timer
Surge protection extension lead
New bucket

Aquarium goals:
Planted fish tank with one main driftwood with plants and rocks surrounding it.
Main fish: 4-6 male guppies
Possible secondary fish: 4 mollys and possibly a couple of shrimp

Setup Process:

Fish tank positioned in room and level (done)
1.Place wood in a bucket and soak in boiling water for 20 mins and soak overnight
2.Clean tank with dechlorinated tap water
3.Set up heater, filter and lights but don’t turn on
4.Place a thin layer of aquatic compost (less than an inch high)
5.Wash sand in half a bucket full of tap water? Keep rinsing until water is clear
6.Place a 2 inch layer of sand on top of compost (small scoops at a time)
7.Mix a bucket full of tap water and dechlorinator
8.Place a saucer in the tank on top of the sand and carefully pour the water onto the saucer
9.Fill the tank ¾ full
10.Let the dust settle
11.Turn the filter and heater on
12.Place the décor in the tank
13.Fill the tank to the top
14.Place thermometer in tank
15.Raise temperature to mid/upper 80s
16.Run the tank for a day

~Tank ready for fishless cycle~​

Plants: Is it ok to place the plants in the tank after a week or two? Not necessarily once the cycle is complete?

Fertilisers: Do I place them in with the soil or when the plants are placed in?


Fishless cycle: Add and Wait Method

1.Test parameters of tap water
2.Test how much ammonia to add

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•Small bucket – fill with water (about 5 gallons)

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•Add 2-4 drops of ammonia

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•Continue until 4 or 5ppm

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•Record the number of drops used

DAILY – Test ammonia level
OCCASIONALLY - Test for nitrates

~ 1 week later~​

3.Ammonia level should be near zero
4.Add ammonia to make levels back to 3-4ppm
5.Test Nitrites DAILY

​

•Levels should be off the chart (API Test = purple in bottom of tube)

Keep repeating stages 3-5 until ammonia levels go from 4ppm to 0ppm in less than 12 hours
DAILY – Add ammonia

It will take a longer time for the nitrites to go down to 0 within 12 hours

6.Once nitrites are at 0ppm continue for a few days to make sure levels are stabilised
7.Add ammonia until the day before you get fish

Tank = covered in brown algae (should disappear on its own)​

Nitrate level = 200ppm​

8.Perform a large 75-90% water change

Nitrate level should be no more than 20ppm​

~Fishless cycle finished~​

Add fish!​

Queries:

How much of ammonia should I add after the levels drop to 0ppm in less than 12 hours?

When should I start and how often should I test water pH levels?

​

•pH levels = 7.0 – 8.0

How long should the lights be on for?

 

[OldMan47]

Let me try this Jenni.
You have a tank, heater, filter, lighting, fish food, testing kit, dechlorinator, substrate. You also have cycling supplies. After that everything is optional, not required. I am guessing that you plan everything that you do, much as I do, but it is really not that critical if your basic needs are met.
The instructions for a fishless cycle can be reached from a link in my signature area. Once the cycle starts to progress, I modify that advice a bit by merely maintaining about 2 ppm of ammonia, not the higher value that is recommended there. It seems to work out well for most people compared to the much higher value. I have not done a true fishless cycle in quite a number of years because I always use a clone from a thriving tank as my starting colony in a new tank's filter. That means I have not had to go through the process personally in quite a while but I do advise lots of folks and they seem to do better at that lower value.

 

[FishFanatic04]

Well, Jenni. Let's be best friends. I think you are almost uncomfortably organized. I am a spaz, while you are calm and thorough. I really relate to the research you have done however.

I am currently cycling with plants {long story} I started with 6 hours a day on my lighting. It is a good timing to find out what your plants will need. I am finding that my plants "talk" to me just as much as fish will on their needs.

You can wait to finish your cycle before adding plants, which will keep things less complicated.

 

[ninjacheesefish]

Couple of points:
1) LCD thermometers are quite fun. They stick on the outside of the tank and change colour depending on the temperature
2) I don't think it really matters when the plants go in, I had them in the tank when I did a cycle with fish and they all survived, but if you want to be sure save them until the cycle is finished
3) Fish tank lights can cause algae growth. Leaving them on too long causes green algae and off too long causes brown algae. Depending on the location of the tank the lights should be on for around 8 to 12 hours a day. As you have live plants in your tank I would suggest around 10 -12 hours a day.
Sorry I couldn't help on everything

 

[FishFanatic04]

Couple of points:
1) LCD thermometers are quite fun. They stick on the outside of the tank and change colour depending on the temperature
2) I don't think it really matters when the plants go in, I had them in the tank when I did a cycle with fish and they all survived, but if you want to be sure save them until the cycle is finished
3) Fish tank lights can cause algae growth. Leaving them on too long causes green algae and off too long causes brown algae. Depending on the location of the tank the lights should be on for around 8 to 12 hours a day. As you have live plants in your tank I would suggest around 10 -12 hours a day.
Sorry I couldn't help on everything

Brown algae, if you are referring to Diatoms is not caused by the lights being off, it is very common in newly setup tanks and will go away on its on. The lights are only there so we can see our fish, or for our plants. If you didn't have plants you wouldn't have to have lighting at all.


8-12 hours a day in a planted tank would probably be considered an overly long lighting period by most planted folks. 8 hours is the longest I would go. In a low tech tank {low light and no co2 injection} I would stretch the lighting limits as long as no algae issues arise. In my high tech tank I will probably settle between 6-7 hours.

 

[ZoddyZod]

Couple of points:
1) LCD thermometers are quite fun. They stick on the outside of the tank and change colour depending on the temperature

I think you are confusing two different types here. LCD thermometers have a digital display - a Liquid Crystal Display in fact, hence the name. The ones that attach to the front of the glass and change colour are thermochromic, and are pretty innacurate. The inks that are used to make then have quite a high tolerance range for that temperature at which they change colour.

 

[ninjacheesefish]

Okay, I'll reduce the lighting time on mine then, as I think I'm leaving them on too long. Also, the thermometer I got is one with thermochromatic ink and it calls itself an LCD thermometer because LCD screens have thermochromatic ink crystals in them. But, yes I can see why it would be confusing.

 

[jenni8888]

Thank you all for the advice and pointers Sorry about the delay in replying, I have been having major issues with my internet connection recently which has been a tad annoying.

The ammonia levels, lighting times and thermometer notes have been a great help!