Anyone willing to rescue sick goldfish

[tallentemma]

Please don't shame me, I really have tried my best to care for this fish but everything has been going wrong and I really need someone to save what I've done to my poor Ester ?

Last year I cycled a tank and bought a fancy ryukin goldfish and everything has been going down hill. First the filter broke, then another filter wasn't strong enough. I then bought a canister filter and was doing daily water changes but now my ryukin has really bad fin rot and swim bladder problems. It's a lot of stress and guilt on my shoulders and I feel like the only way he'll make it is if I rehome him to someone who actually knows what they're doing. Please, if anyone is in Georgia willing to pick him up and care for him for the rest of his life, let me know. No charge and I can give you his 20gal tank, canister filter, rapashy, everything that I've accumulated for his care to you for free. I just want him to have a better life and a chance to live a life he deserves.

 

[tallentemma]

Please don't shame me, I really have tried my best to care for this fish but everything has been going wrong and I really need someone to save what I've done to my poor Ester ?

Last year I cycled a tank and bought a fancy ryukin goldfish and everything has been going down hill. First the filter broke, then another filter wasn't strong enough. I then bought a canister filter and was doing daily water changes but now my ryukin has really bad fin rot and swim bladder problems. It's a lot of stress and guilt on my shoulders and I feel like the only way he'll make it is if I rehome him to someone who actually knows what they're doing. Please, if anyone is in Georgia willing to pick him up and care for him for the rest of his life, let me know. No charge and I can give you his 20gal tank, canister filter, rapashy, everything that I've accumulated for his care to you for free. I just want him to have a better life and a chance to live a life he deserves.

Also I'm currently treating him for fin rot with API with melafix. Started today

 

[AdoraBelle Dearheart]

No shame towards you, it's very clear that you care for him a lot, and have more than enough guilt already, you don't need more! It's great that you're looking to find a good home for him. I'm in the UK so won't be able to help there, @Deanasue is our resident goldfish expert, and I know she's in the US, but I don't know where. Perhaps she would know someone who could take him.

Would you like some advice for how to make caring for him easier in the meantime? Until you can find him a good home?

 

[tallentemma]

No shame towards you, it's very clear that you care for him a lot, and have more than enough guilt already, you don't need more! It's great that you're looking to find a good home for him. I'm in the UK so won't be able to help there, @Deanasue is our resident goldfish expert, and I know she's in the US, but I don't know where. Perhaps she would know someone who could take him.

Would you like some advice for how to make caring for him easier in the meantime? Until you can find him a good home?

Thank you for the kind reply, I'll try to get in contact with her to see if she can find anyone. Yes please! Any advice is more than welcome just in case I can't get anyone to take him in.

 

[FishGuest5123]

Please don't shame me, I really have tried my best to care for this fish but everything has been going wrong and I really need someone to save what I've done to my poor Ester ?

Last year I cycled a tank and bought a fancy ryukin goldfish and everything has been going down hill. First the filter broke, then another filter wasn't strong enough. I then bought a canister filter and was doing daily water changes but now my ryukin has really bad fin rot and swim bladder problems. It's a lot of stress and guilt on my shoulders and I feel like the only way he'll make it is if I rehome him to someone who actually knows what they're doing. Please, if anyone is in Georgia willing to pick him up and care for him for the rest of his life, let me know. No charge and I can give you his 20gal tank, canister filter, rapashy, everything that I've accumulated for his care to you for free. I just want him to have a better life and a chance to live a life he deserves.

Aww, little too far for me. I’m in Texas. Have you checked to see if you have a goldfish rescue in your area? They really do exist. Petco takes rescue animals too although not sure about a fish. They might let you post an ad in the store.

 

[AdoraBelle Dearheart]

Thank you for the kind reply, I'll try to get in contact with her to see if she can find anyone. Yes please! Any advice is more than welcome just in case I can't get anyone to take him in.

It sounds like maybe you're struggling with water quality issues... goldfish have a high bioload, they eat a lot, they poop a lot, they pollute the water quickly! In a 20 gallon if he's getting big (and fancies do get large) it must mean a lot of large water changes to keep the water quality up, no matter how good your filtration.

So increasing the volume of water he's in could make your life easier. Would mean more water to change, but the parameters would be more stable, stay cleaner for longer. Do you have a water testing kit or dip strips that test for ammonia/nitrite/nitrate?

To solve the volume problem, you could get a large food grade storage tote, like this;

You can calculate volume by the outside measurements, but if you get one that can hold 40-50 Gallons, that would be a much better temporary tank for him than the 20 gallon, and a great deal cheaper than buying a 40-50 gallon aquarium! Some of us use these as temporary quarantine tanks. Not as pretty as having him in a tank, but the extra water volume means the waste he produces is diluted in a greater quantity of water, so it's cleaner and allows him to heal better.

Frequent water changes are the key to healing fin rot though, and perhaps salt treatment, if @Colin_T or @Deanasue agree.

The downside would be the cost to medicate a much larger volume of water if you go the medication route. Alternatively, you could do the full API course while he's in the 20 gallon, then move him to the tote (along with his filter, airstone, substrate, etc) and keep up frequent water changes once he's in the tote.

 

[tallentemma]

Aww, little too far for me. I’m in Texas. Have you checked to see if you have a goldfish rescue in your area? They really do exist. Petco takes rescue animals too although not sure about a fish. They might let you post an ad in the store.

I'm not sure how to find them. I tried googling but couldn't find much so I decided to hop on here to see if anyone could take him in. I'll double check and do more to find a place, thanks a bunch for the timely response!

 

[tallentemma]

It sounds like maybe you're struggling with water quality issues... goldfish have a high bioload, they eat a lot, they poop a lot, they pollute the water quickly! In a 20 gallon if he's getting big (and fancies do get large) it must mean a lot of large water changes to keep the water quality up, no matter how good your filtration.

So increasing the volume of water he's in could make your life easier. Would mean more water to change, but the parameters would be more stable, stay cleaner for longer. Do you have a water testing kit or dip strips that test for ammonia/nitrite/nitrate?

To solve the volume problem, you could get a large food grade storage tote, like this;
View attachment 132500

You can calculate volume by the outside measurements, but if you get one that can hold 40-50 Gallons, that would be a much better temporary tank for him than the 20 gallon, and a great deal cheaper than buying a 40-50 gallon aquarium! Some of us use these as temporary quarantine tanks. Not as pretty as having him in a tank, but the extra water volume means the waste he produces is diluted in a greater quantity of water, so it's cleaner and allows him to heal better.

Frequent water changes are the key to healing fin rot though, and perhaps salt treatment, if @Colin_T or @Deanasue agree.

The downside would be the cost to medicate a much larger volume of water if you go the medication route. Alternatively, you could do the full API course while he's in the 20 gallon, then move him to the tote (along with his filter, airstone, substrate, etc) and keep up frequent water changes once he's in the tote.

This seems like great advice! I'll be sure to keep everything you say in mind, I did actually start treating him with API so I think I will continue to treat him in the 20 gal and do lots of water changes. If I haven't found anyone to take him in I'll definitely get one of those storage containers. Screw good looking tanks, I just want my fish healthy ? thanks a bunch! I really appreciate it

 

[Boundava]

Please don't shame me, I really have tried my best to care for this fish but everything has been going wrong and I really need someone to save what I've done to my poor Ester ?

Last year I cycled a tank and bought a fancy ryukin goldfish and everything has been going down hill. First the filter broke, then another filter wasn't strong enough. I then bought a canister filter and was doing daily water changes but now my ryukin has really bad fin rot and swim bladder problems. It's a lot of stress and guilt on my shoulders and I feel like the only way he'll make it is if I rehome him to someone who actually knows what they're doing. Please, if anyone is in Georgia willing to pick him up and care for him for the rest of his life, let me know. No charge and I can give you his 20gal tank, canister filter, rapashy, everything that I've accumulated for his care to you for free. I just want him to have a better life and a chance to live a life he deserves.

Wish I could help, but am in IL.

 

[tallentemma]

Wish I could help, but am in IL.

Thanks a bunch for willing to do something though. If I can't find someone I'll be sure to do all that I can to help him heal

 

[Circus]

You can try putting an ad out on facebook or other social media. You can call your local petstore and see if they are willing to help as well.

Just from a quick Google, I did find the Atlanta Koi Rescue. You might try contact there.

 

[Colin_T]

The fish has a bit of damage on its tail and a white patch on the side, which looks like excess mucous covering a minor infection.

There's no need to give up your fish. When things settle down you won't have any more problems.

Just add some salt (see directions below), and monitor the water for ammonia, nitrite, nitrate and pH. If you have an ammonia or nitrite reading above 0ppm, do a 75% water change and gravel clean the substrate every day until the level is 0.

You can use salt with Melafix or just salt on its own.

Check your tap water for ammonia.

How often do you clean the filter and how do you clean it?

-------------------
As for the swim bladder problems, it's probably caused by dry food. Goldfish tend to gulp in air when they eat food from the surface. The air goes into their stomach and intestine and can cause them to float about. Eventually they fart (yes fish fart) and the air comes out and they can swim around normally again.

If you feed dry pellets or flakes, then try live or frozen food for a week and see if it helps. If it fixes the problem, then it's just air in the intestine. Make sure they get some plant matter in their diet too. Goldfish need plants to help with their digestion.

Fancy short body fantail goldfish are more likely to have problems due to having shorter bodies.

-------------------
SALT
You can add rock salt (often sold as aquarium salt) or swimming pool salt to the aquarium at the dose rate of 1 heaped tablespoon per 20 litres of water. If there is no improvement after 48 hours you can double that dose rate so there is 2 heaped tablespoons of salt per 20 litres.

If you only have livebearers (guppies, platies, swordtails, mollies), goldfish or rainbowfish in the tank you can double that dose rate, so you would add 2 heaped tablespoons per 20 litres and if there is no improvement after 48 hours, then increase it so there is a total of 4 heaped tablespoons of salt per 20 litres.

Keep the salt level like this for at least 2 weeks but no longer than 4 weeks otherwise kidney damage can occur. Kidney damage is more likely to occur in fish from soft water (tetras, Corydoras, angelfish, Bettas & gouramis, loaches) that are exposed to high levels of salt for an extended period of time, and is not an issue with livebearers, rainbowfish or other salt tolerant species.

The salt will not affect the beneficial filter bacteria but the higher dose rate (4 heaped tablespoons per 20 litres) will affect some plants and some snails. The lower dose rate (1-2 heaped tablespoons per 20 litres) will not affect fish, plants, shrimp or snails.

After you use salt and the fish have recovered, you do a 10% water change each day for a week using only fresh water that has been dechlorinated. Then do a 20% water change each day for a week. Then you can do bigger water changes after that. This dilutes the salt out of the tank slowly so it doesn't harm the fish.

If you do water changes while using salt, you need to treat the new water with salt before adding it to the tank. This will keep the salt level stable in the tank and minimise stress on the fish.

 

[tallentemma]

The fish has a bit of damage on its tail and a white patch on the side, which looks like excess mucous covering a minor infection.

There's no need to give up your fish. When things settle down you won't have any more problems.

Just add some salt (see directions below), and monitor the water for ammonia, nitrite, nitrate and pH. If you have an ammonia or nitrite reading above 0ppm, do a 75% water change and gravel clean the substrate every day until the level is 0.

You can use salt with Melafix or just salt on its own.

Check your tap water for ammonia.

How often do you clean the filter and how do you clean it?

-------------------
As for the swim bladder problems, it's probably caused by dry food. Goldfish tend to gulp in air when they eat food from the surface. The air goes into their stomach and intestine and can cause them to float about. Eventually they fart (yes fish fart) and the air comes out and they can swim around normally again.

If you feed dry pellets or flakes, then try live or frozen food for a week and see if it helps. If it fixes the problem, then it's just air in the intestine. Make sure they get some plant matter in their diet too. Goldfish need plants to help with their digestion.

Fancy short body fantail goldfish are more likely to have problems due to having shorter bodies.

-------------------
SALT
You can add rock salt (often sold as aquarium salt) or swimming pool salt to the aquarium at the dose rate of 1 heaped tablespoon per 20 litres of water. If there is no improvement after 48 hours you can double that dose rate so there is 2 heaped tablespoons of salt per 20 litres.

If you only have livebearers (guppies, platies, swordtails, mollies), goldfish or rainbowfish in the tank you can double that dose rate, so you would add 2 heaped tablespoons per 20 litres and if there is no improvement after 48 hours, then increase it so there is a total of 4 heaped tablespoons of salt per 20 litres.

Keep the salt level like this for at least 2 weeks but no longer than 4 weeks otherwise kidney damage can occur. Kidney damage is more likely to occur in fish from soft water (tetras, Corydoras, angelfish, Bettas & gouramis, loaches) that are exposed to high levels of salt for an extended period of time, and is not an issue with livebearers, rainbowfish or other salt tolerant species.

The salt will not affect the beneficial filter bacteria but the higher dose rate (4 heaped tablespoons per 20 litres) will affect some plants and some snails. The lower dose rate (1-2 heaped tablespoons per 20 litres) will not affect fish, plants, shrimp or snails.

After you use salt and the fish have recovered, you do a 10% water change each day for a week using only fresh water that has been dechlorinated. Then do a 20% water change each day for a week. Then you can do bigger water changes after that. This dilutes the salt out of the tank slowly so it doesn't harm the fish.

If you do water changes while using salt, you need to treat the new water with salt before adding it to the tank. This will keep the salt level stable in the tank and minimise stress on the fish.

Thanks a bunch for informing me. Glad to hear that it's something that can be fixed. I'll make sure to note everything you mentioned a side from the salt treatment since I've already started with melafix before posting on this forum. For food I usually feed him a mix of repashy and pellets but have been giving him peas only as of late due to swim bladder. I'll be sure to toss out those pellets and try only repashy.

 

[tallentemma]

The fish has a bit of damage on its tail and a white patch on the side, which looks like excess mucous covering a minor infection.

There's no need to give up your fish. When things settle down you won't have any more problems.

Just add some salt (see directions below), and monitor the water for ammonia, nitrite, nitrate and pH. If you have an ammonia or nitrite reading above 0ppm, do a 75% water change and gravel clean the substrate every day until the level is 0.

You can use salt with Melafix or just salt on its own.

Check your tap water for ammonia.

How often do you clean the filter and how do you clean it?

-------------------
As for the swim bladder problems, it's probably caused by dry food. Goldfish tend to gulp in air when they eat food from the surface. The air goes into their stomach and intestine and can cause them to float about. Eventually they fart (yes fish fart) and the air comes out and they can swim around normally again.

If you feed dry pellets or flakes, then try live or frozen food for a week and see if it helps. If it fixes the problem, then it's just air in the intestine. Make sure they get some plant matter in their diet too. Goldfish need plants to help with their digestion.

Fancy short body fantail goldfish are more likely to have problems due to having shorter bodies.

-------------------
SALT
You can add rock salt (often sold as aquarium salt) or swimming pool salt to the aquarium at the dose rate of 1 heaped tablespoon per 20 litres of water. If there is no improvement after 48 hours you can double that dose rate so there is 2 heaped tablespoons of salt per 20 litres.

If you only have livebearers (guppies, platies, swordtails, mollies), goldfish or rainbowfish in the tank you can double that dose rate, so you would add 2 heaped tablespoons per 20 litres and if there is no improvement after 48 hours, then increase it so there is a total of 4 heaped tablespoons of salt per 20 litres.

Keep the salt level like this for at least 2 weeks but no longer than 4 weeks otherwise kidney damage can occur. Kidney damage is more likely to occur in fish from soft water (tetras, Corydoras, angelfish, Bettas & gouramis, loaches) that are exposed to high levels of salt for an extended period of time, and is not an issue with livebearers, rainbowfish or other salt tolerant species.

The salt will not affect the beneficial filter bacteria but the higher dose rate (4 heaped tablespoons per 20 litres) will affect some plants and some snails. The lower dose rate (1-2 heaped tablespoons per 20 litres) will not affect fish, plants, shrimp or snails.

After you use salt and the fish have recovered, you do a 10% water change each day for a week using only fresh water that has been dechlorinated. Then do a 20% water change each day for a week. Then you can do bigger water changes after that. This dilutes the salt out of the tank slowly so it doesn't harm the fish.

If you do water changes while using salt, you need to treat the new water with salt before adding it to the tank. This will keep the salt level stable in the tank and minimise stress on the fish.

Also with the filter it's still fairly new but I cleaned it about a month or two ago. Prior to that I believe I waited a few months because I needed to let it settle in. I usually fill a bucket with tank water and clean everything with that.

 

[Slaphppy7]

Do you have a test kit for ammonia, nitrIte, and nitrAte?