Ammo
- Thread starter Xavier
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ArauraDiscus
Fish Addict
I haven't but I'm responding because you said not to!!
Just kidding, I have and they don't work to well, the ammo-chips that is. Probably better off getting a porous filter media to grow nitrifying bacteria on, and adding something to nuetralize ammonia. Also the lower your PH, the less toxic ammonia is.
Just kidding, I have and they don't work to well, the ammo-chips that is. Probably better off getting a porous filter media to grow nitrifying bacteria on, and adding something to nuetralize ammonia. Also the lower your PH, the less toxic ammonia is.
doresy
Sometimes Right, Sometimes Wrong but ALWAYS certai
To be honest my friend, if you do get a response from someone who has used these products then you are connecting with someone who has FAILED to removed ammonia by a Cycle system so has reverted to chemical cheat which will do no good at all 
By saying "do not repond" to other members is denying yourself a valuable source of help
By saying "do not repond" to other members is denying yourself a valuable source of help
yea.....thanks for thatTo be honest my friend, if you do get a response from someone who has used these products then you are connecting with someone who has FAILED to removed ammonia by a Cycle system so has reverted to chemical cheat which will do no good at all
By saying "do not repond" to other members is denying yourself a valuable source of help
but i really don't have time to start cycling again because for some reason the water coming into my neighborhood is giving me higher and higher ammonia readings so SORRY to all those fish people out there that say I'm CHEATING but i don't have very many options and i need a "quick fix"
ArauraDiscus
Fish Addict
To be honest my friend, if you do get a response from someone who has used these products then you are connecting with someone who has FAILED to removed ammonia by a Cycle system so has reverted to chemical cheat which will do no good at all
By saying "do not repond" to other members is denying yourself a valuable source of help
Not true, I didnt use it because I failed, I used it as a precaution and as extra surface area to promote bacterial growth. Thats basically what it is, It promotes the growth of the bacteria that remove ammonia.
-germ-
Rheophilic....
SeaChem Prime or Purigen, Primes probably best because your tank will eventually re-cycle....
Link in sig...
Used it before and it does work although you'll get weird readings for ammonia (brown usually) it'll detoxify it succesfully.
Make sure you read up on purigen if you prefer this, don't use it in conjuction (or in a tank that has seen recently) any amine based products.
Link in sig...
Used it before and it does work although you'll get weird readings for ammonia (brown usually) it'll detoxify it succesfully.
Make sure you read up on purigen if you prefer this, don't use it in conjuction (or in a tank that has seen recently) any amine based products.
I have not used either of these products but what you are wanting and what they will give you are 2 totally separate things. Both of those products "remove" ammonia. They are not a quick fix. By using those, the ammonia is removed without allowing the beneficial bacteria to build to process it natually. Once you start using them, you have to use them from then on, as in forever. When you decide you don't want to use them any more or can't afford to use them, guess what, you tank is still not cycled and you have to start the cycling again. So eventually you will have to find time tostart cycling again or you will have to spend money and time as they have to be changed and recharged every so often by soaking in a aquarium salt water solution (something else you have to buy). It's really 100 times easier to just cycle the tank and be done with it.
If you are concerned about our tap water having high ammonia levels (how high are they and what does the water company say about it?) then use Ammo-Lock instead. It will make the ammonia non-toxic but still leave it in the tank for the filter to process naturally. You will however have to do some water changes once the nitrite starts showing up to keep those levels down until the bacteria are present to process it naturally. Once your tank is cycled, the ammonia in your tap water won't be an issue as there will be bacteria in the tank to start breaking it down as soon as you do a water change. Even if the ammonia level in your tap water is 2 ppm, after a 20% water change, the tank level would only be .4ppm an the bacteria will take care of that in a couple hours.
-germ-
Rheophilic....
Rdd i hate to contradict you, i have the utmost respect for your knowledge and the effort you put into helping posters on this site.
Prime merely converts ammonia to its least toxic form (ionized) and detoxifies nitrite, but you will have a cycled tank eventually, the detoxified form of nitrite needs nitrifying bacteria as does the ionized form of ammonia. I've checked, switched from prime to tapsafe for a month and suffered no issues.
Plus i have reports about ammo-lock eventually resulting in serious and often deadly spikes. Maybe just hearsay, i don't know.
I'd agree though, once bound to purigen you have to stick with it or start a cycle, although it is fairly cheap (considering the benefits) to regenerate and can in principal be reused endlessly, just needs bleach, dechlor and buffer. Plus it requires almost constant monitoring.
Just thought i'd offer the info...
Prime merely converts ammonia to its least toxic form (ionized) and detoxifies nitrite, but you will have a cycled tank eventually, the detoxified form of nitrite needs nitrifying bacteria as does the ionized form of ammonia. I've checked, switched from prime to tapsafe for a month and suffered no issues.
Plus i have reports about ammo-lock eventually resulting in serious and often deadly spikes. Maybe just hearsay, i don't know.
I'd agree though, once bound to purigen you have to stick with it or start a cycle, although it is fairly cheap (considering the benefits) to regenerate and can in principal be reused endlessly, just needs bleach, dechlor and buffer. Plus it requires almost constant monitoring.
Just thought i'd offer the info...
I never mentioned Prime. I was speaking strictly of the Ammo-Chips (actually a product that API makes and is listed on their website under Pond Products) and ammo zorb which I couldn't find anything on but assume that it may be Nitro-Zorb which also removes ammonia, nitrite and nitrate. Personally, I have never used either Prime or Ammo-Lock and was just going by what the manufacturer says on the Ammo-Lock. And with either of them you will definitely get spikes, possibly off the chart as the non-toxic form will still register on your test kit. That is really why I would never use either of them. I would prefer to do water changes and know that the levels are as low as possible than to use one of those products and wonder if the 1, 2, 3, 4, or 5 ppm I'm seeing on my test kit is really non-toxic or not. I just don't trust chemicals. If I see levels that high, I'm doing water changes.
-germ-
Rheophilic....
Oh...
Thought it was based on my reply not OP....
Sorry!
Thought it was based on my reply not OP....
Sorry!
Not a problem. I know a lot of people use Prime, much more as a dechlorinator than for what it does for ammonia, but I just don't like any item that does anything to ammonia.
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