BLACKWATER

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I already told you you want ec I told you we don’t do this here in Scotland as our water is predictable which part of this do u not understand I know I made a mistake but am telling you WEE DONT MEASURE THIS IN SCOTLAND it may be a thing in America but not hear
 
No water provider anywhere in the world gives EC on their website. The fish keeper has to buy a meater to measure it themselves. anewbie will have his own meter, and he can look up his GH on his water provider's website if he so wishes.


Comparing GH to EC is like comparing aquarium sizes with one person using volume and the other using length.
 
No water provider anywhere in the world gives EC on their website. The fish keeper has to buy a meater to measure it themselves. anewbie will have his own meter, and he can look up his GH on his water provider's website if he so wishes.


Comparing GH to EC is like comparing aquarium sizes with one person using volume and the other using length.
I wasn’t trying to get gh
 
As they do not publish there readings you can get the results sent to you by post if u apply for it
 
When you said
my water is good between 10 - 20 out of tap
a few posts - what was it measuring? As far as I'm aware, 5 in 1 strips test for nitrite, nitrate, pH, KH and GH. 6 in 1 tests also include chlorine.
 
If I were Dave, I'd do exactly what I did when I moved here. I looked up the website of the local water authority and to read what my water was. The reports were hard to find, so I called the city's info number and got a bored and helpful chemist who was delighted to be asked a question. He directed me to what I needed.

No one phones anyone anymore, but it can still work.

Most of my Scottish aquarium acquaintances have very soft water, in contrast to Americans. Get the reading, Dave, then google or ask what it means and you're set to see if blackwater can be your project. @Essjay is a great resource person.
 
If I were Dave, I'd do exactly what I did when I moved here. I looked up the website of the local water authority and to read what my water was. The reports were hard to find, so I called the city's info number and got a bored and helpful chemist who was delighted to be asked a question. He directed me to what I needed.

No one phones anyone anymore, but it can still work.

Most of my Scottish aquarium acquaintances have very soft water, in contrast to Americans. Get the reading, Dave, then google or ask what it means and you're set to see if blackwater can be your project. @Essjay is a great resource person.
Thanks this is how I want advice heck it’s a forum site for god sake some people should get off if the know everything than trying to pick fights you do have some keyboard warriors in this forum
 
The third measurement is TDS (total dissolved solids) which uses a meter to measure everything in water whether it can carry an electrical current or not.

This is not accurate. TDS is usually measured using conductivity and then a formula is used to convert this into TDS. I ran a continuous digital monitor for my Altum tank for a decade. I also have a couple of TDS pens. One the Digital monitor I had 3 options.
1. EC
2. TDS (ec X 500)
3. ppm (ec x 700)

However, the above methods are not the most accurate way to measure what is in water or any other solution. That way is to evaporate out the liquid leaving only the solids. Then these are weighed. However, in many applications this degree of accuracy is not needed.

My BlueLab Guardian monitor is no longer made as it does not have Wi Fi. That made it cheaper than the one equipped with Wi Fi. Today this option does not exist, BlueLab makes on a Wi Fi equipped unit but the Wi Fi can be turned on or off. Since I do not use a smart phone, I had no use for the Wi Fi feature. I would likely not buy the current unit as the cost of the Wi Fi upped the price back when I got mine by about $100. When I say likely, I mean I would hunt for one without it. If I could not find one, then I would research user ratings and pricing with the goal of getting a monitor which was decent and also less costly. This might be the Blue lab unit.

BGUSTD02.png


Before it was only the on/off Wi Fi unit I spend about $250 for my monitor. The above is priced at $493.00 USD + Tax and likely shipping. It is also a good idea to add the Probe Care Kit which I did get. Today it is priced at $35.

Not many fishkeepers can afford to spend $538+ to monitor a single tank. I was able to afford the unit I got but that was still a bit of a stretch. I do not think I could afford to buy it today.
 
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I was trying for a very simplified overview, thank you for the more detailed explanation :).
 

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