Algea Issues And Tank Overhaul

[Dj-damo]

Hi All

Just wondering if i could have some advice.

I have a Rena 450 litre tropical tank, guppies, mollies, harlequins ect ect. i probably have about 70 fish including shrimp in there. i am running an eheim 2078 pro 3e filter and an aquamanta efx 400 filter. im also using a UV sterilizer (UV VECTRON 600)
and a homemade diy co2 input. (6Litres)

The water i use is RO water as i have my own unit for that.

i am having huge algea issues at the moment. the main issue is gonna be that i have been away a lot recently and i have not been able to do the weekly 30% water changes i used to. with work commitments i am finding this difficult. i realize that i do need to do more water changes so i do not need to be told that. but if there is a way i can do the water changes once every 2 - 3 weeks then this will help as i spend much time away from home at the moment and i have my friends come over every other day to feed the fish ( used to be every day.) i feed the fish frozen food, sometimes flakes and pellets (what is better?)

I am planning to do an massive tank overhaul where i put the fish in my 240 liter tank ( currently empty) and then clean all the gravel, rocks, wood, heaters, tank ect.
What would be the best way of cleaning the ornaments. i.e hot water to kill of the algae ect.

im going to chuck all the plants away, there is not that many and maybe the co2 is too much so i was planning on getting some plant substrate and heavily planting the tank straight away. with doing this i am planning to move to pressurized co2.

i am also going to use jbl phosphate ex and jbl bio nitrate ex to help with the periods between water changes. i have heard some good reviews and negative but i will find out for myself.
also the lights are only on for about 6 hours a day.

i dont agree with using chemicals so would prefer to stay away from these.

i have no fish die since installing the UV sterilizer. so at least it is doing half of what it is supposed to do.

and i feel that the tank conditions are ok as my mollies and guppies are breeding like crazy. so much that i have had to buy a 100 liter tank just for the fry.

i was also gonna get 20 shrimp to help with the algae but would this be too much!!!

again, i do realize that i am not doing enough water changes but working away at the moment leaves me no time to do it. and there is no one i trust to do it for me. so i don't need advice on the water changes as i will speak to my bosses and see if i can get home a bit more. .

Your help would be greatly appreciated.

so to summarize......

1 - the best way to deep clean the tank including all ornaments, ( not filters and pipes as this was done 2 weeks ago)
2 - Will heavily planting the tank from the start be more beneficial as i am planning on moving to pressurized co2.
3 - jbl phosphate ex and jbl bio nitrate ex, good or bad?
4 - any other ways to help combat algae.
5 - more shrimp >!!!!!!!!


Thank you in anticipation

Damien

 

[StandbySetting]

Your algae will more than likely be the result of too much light, poor circulation and unstable CO2, DIY CO2 is not very good and isn't ideal for large tanks.

How many hours are the lights on for? And what kind of lighting do you have? How many watts?

 

[RadaR]

Lighting on for 6hours? Good, keep it as that.
Nitrate and phosphate removers are not needed what so ever. Keep your money. Nitrates and phosphates do not cause algae.
DIY CO2 will never be big enough for a tank of that size. If you needed CO2 then pressurized is the way to go. However, if you go with CO2 then water changes need to be large and weekly. You will also need to daily dose macro (NPK) and micro (trace elements) nutrients.
It's important that planted tanks have good flow/circulation. 10times the volume of the tank turned over every hour is a good value to aim for. Then you just have to use this flow efficiently.
What wattage are your lights? Are they t8s, t5s?

Algae guide
Carbon dioxide

 

[Dj-damo]

It is a juwel high lite system, t5 54 watts. 2 tubes.

Do I need to heavily plant the tank at the beginning and what sort of plants do I use.

 

[RadaR]

You might get away with not using CO2. Especially if you use some floating plants to decrease light intensity.
Plant up heavily and do so with fast growing plants.

Hygrophila species
Ludwigia species
Rotala species
Egeria species
Brazilian Water Ivy
Small Ambulia
Mexican Oak Leaf
Water Sprite
Hornwort
Floating plants (careful they don’t block too much light)

 

[Dj-damo]

Thank you all for your input.

i am thinking i may buy another filter. i currently have the eheim pro 3e 2078 and a aquamanta efx 400.

i was looking into getting an eheim 2180 with the inbuilt heater. would this be a good idea? also would it be enough for my 450 liter tank with about 80 ish fish? the other 2 i may sell or keep and use on my empty 240L tank.

For water circulation, what sort or power heads would i go for, also what flow speed would be best and how many?

Im planning to do the tank next week,

i would like to heavily plant the tank so i need to find a good substrate, as i will cover it with gravel . any ideas?

With regards to the co2 input. what is a good Regulator, i have seen some on ebay for around £60 but there from hong kong, china ect. is there a specific brand that would be good?
I would diffuse this by putting an in-line atomizer / diffuser that i have seen on ebay for around £12.

Once again thank you all for taking the time to repy.

Damien

 

[RadaR]

The eheim 2180 is good. The in-built heater is great because it means you dont need to stick and ugly heater inside the tank which spoils the view.
If you use your existing filters with the potential new one then you shouldnt need powerheads. The 3 filters should provide enough flow/circulation if used correctly.
A good rule is 10x the volume of the tank turned over ever hour (4500lph for you). This applies to high-tech tanks (CO2 injected).
As for substrate, have a look for jbl aquabasis plus. You can then cover this with what you want.
I don't have any experience with the regulators from Hong Kong on ebay, but I personally don't trust them. This is after all a very important piece of kit (health and safety).
There used to be some really good CO2 kits on ebay from Germany. Lunapet I think. I've tried looking for them but no success.
As for good manufacturers to go with:

TMC
Dennerle
JBL
D&D
Aqua Medic

 

[Dj-damo]

I was thinking of only having the 2180 running this tank lone as it has 2 intakes, i have also been looking at reviews and alot of people say that the classics (2217) are better.
would i be better of running 2 smaller filters rather than one big one. i wouldnt mind getting another 2078, as the bio filtration is amazing, i could probably do with more mechanical filtration to help with the particles.
looking on the bottom of the tank there is a lot of debris.

Damien

 

[RadaR]

I was thinking of only having the 2180 running this tank lone as it has 2 intakes, i have also been looking at reviews and alot of people say that the classics (2217) are better.
would i be better of running 2 smaller filters rather than one big one. i wouldnt mind getting another 2078, as the bio filtration is amazing, i could probably do with more mechanical filtration to help with the particles.
looking on the bottom of the tank there is a lot of debris.

Damien

Thing is, you're looking at a minimum total of 4500litres per hour of flow in that tank because after all, you are going high tech (CO2 injection).
Two smaller filters rather than a big one has no real advantage so long as their output power is the same.
We like lots of flow and circulation because resources (CO2, nutrients) get delivered to the plants at a quick enough rate. Deadspots are also eliminated which otherwise algae would like to build up in. It also helps suck up detritus/debris into the filters rather than left to decay on the floor and leach ammonia in the tank which would cause algae. You dont see many people gravel vac/hoover their high tech planted tanks...this is as a result of lower stocking levels and good circulation

 

[Dj-damo]

Here are a few items i have found.

Power heads


http/cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=140451114892
http/cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=250692844083
http/www.charterhouse-aquatics.co.uk/catalog/newave-6500-circulation-pump-p-3699.html
http/cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=350471988655#ht_1581wt_1139

there is so many. am i better of with 2 or 3 smaller heads rather than the large 1?

With regards to the regulator, as i am planning to use a large co2 bottle (pub size) will any regulator and solenoid work. or is there ones for specific pressure,

i shall keep looking but i am starting to think this will be expensive... lol

 

[RadaR]

First and third link are ok. I wouldnt get the second or fourth though.
It's really up to you. I think one large one is better purely for asthetic reasons, rather than two or three powerheads.
The standard regulators we all get for pressurized CO2 should be fine with a pub size. Best way to check is to measure the male thread on the pub cannister. Diameter should be 22mm. It should fit the female thread on the regulator.

 

[Dj-damo]

if i were to get 2 of the larger ones would that be overkill.?

 

[RadaR]

if i were to get 2 of the larger ones would that be overkill.?

No, not if used correctly and the right positioning.

 

[Dj-damo]

http/www.cdaquatics.co.uk/eco-complete-aquarium-plant-substrate-20lb-~-9.072kg-p-1947.html

Would this substrate be suitable?

Thanks

 

[RadaR]

Eco-complete is an all in on substrate that doesn't get capped. For a few quid more you could buy the best substrate around (my opinion) Colombo flora base.
For both of these products you would need quite a few bags. I used one 10litre flora base in my 125litre tank.