A Planted Tank Beginner

[Khepurr]

Hey! So I've finally got things settled down at my place which means I can start working on my 29 gal (30'' W x 12'' D x 18'' H). It's empty at the moment, since I want to plant it but am very unsure of what is the best substrate for plants with me being new at this. 
 
I tend to like darker substrates, and I've been considering using Eco Complete Black Substrate since it seems to be specifically for helping the plants grow. I'm hoping that would give my plants a boost in case I mess up. I've also seen very beautiful tanks with sand substrate, though I don't know how knowledgable I'd have to be to make that work out well. 
 
I do plan on having driftwood in the tank; I have a piece of Mopani (that has yet to be soaked), and I might add more since it's a bit small for the tank size. 
 
The plants I want to begin with are the usual beginner plants: Java moss, Java fern, maybe Amazon sword, Anubias Nana, (though this all depends on which are in stock at the LFS). 
 
The critters I'd like to eventually introduce to the tank are Cherry Shrimp, Guppies, (and maybe Cory cats. I have read that corys do better on sand though, so that might influence my decision.) I want to get the tank set up and running smoothly for a few months before I add any fish or inverts. 
 
The tank will be heated, filtered, and of course cycled. The hood that the LFS suggested is the Aqueon 30'' full hood, with a 24'' 17 watt T8 full spectrum lamp. (I think there's also an Aqueon lamp called Floramax specifically meant to grow plants, and I'm willing to get that if it's better.) 
 
phew sorry for the info dump. Can anyone with experience maybe give me a few tips on the best substrate, ferts, lighting, ect? I really want to make these plants (and eventually animals) happy! 
 
 

 

 

[NickAu]

 
I've been considering using Eco Complete Black Substrate

I had it in my tank and got rid of it, It was just too messy and IMO not ideal for my plecos, and I did not notice any benefit to my plants. Don't waste your money on it.

 

[Khepurr]

Aw man, that's a bummer. Good to know though. What do you mean by messy? I'm worried about the water getting too cloudy for the fish during water changes, was the eco substrate not good at settling? And do you have any recommendations for a better one for the plants? 

 

[daizeUK]

 
The tank will be heated, filtered, and of course cycled. The hood that the LFS suggested is the Aqueon 30'' full hood, with a 24'' 17 watt T8 full spectrum lamp. (I think there's also an Aqueon lamp called Floramax specifically meant to grow plants, and I'm willing to get that if it's better.) 
 

 
17 watts over 29 gallons is around 0.6 WPG which would be classified as very low light.  Some people get along with very low light levels and it can work if you stick to low-light plants but I'd consider that too low.  I'd be looking for a hood with two of those T8 tubes rather than just one.
 
Coarser sand is better for plants but finer sand is better for cories.  If you go with sand I'd try not to get the finest as the sand will compact quite tightly which makes it difficult for plant roots to penetrate and can lead to anaerobic conditions.

 

[Byron]

One of my seven planted tanks is a 29g with the same dimensions, and I have a single T8 tube (24 inch, which is 20w though some are being made in 17w, more on this momentarily).  Provided you have a good tube, you can manage the plants mentioned; if you double the light with these plants, I would expect algae issues.
 
Now, to the tube.  I only use Hagen's Life-Glo over this tank; this tube does put out more intensity than any other tubes I have tried (on this tank, same tube size).  But there may be others that are as good I haven't tried, but in the US you should be able to find this tube--just make sure it is T8, as Hagen also make this in T5 which won't work in your fixture.  I will add a couple photos of this tank (the aquascape has changed over the four years) to demonstrate it can work; one has another tank reflected, ignore that.
 
On the sand, I've had no issues with play sand which I've had in six tanks for 3-4 years now.  Just don't have it too deep.  Again considering the plants you mention, some are not planted in the substrate anyway (Anubias, Java Fern, Java Moss) but attached to wood or rock, so the substrate won't matter.  I've several species of sword in my tanks and they have done well with the sand.  Malaysian Livebearing snails help to keep the sand good, but even so, some areas of anaerobic activity is part of the biological system and if left alone (like under chunks of rock or wood) not a problem.
 
Byron.

 

[gmc1]

Byron can I ask what kind of floating plant you have in first picture.

 

[gmc1]

Byron can I ask what kind of floating plant you have in first picture.

 

[Byron]

Byron can I ask what kind of floating plant you have in first picture.

 
That is Water Lettuce, Pistia stratiotes.  Some will suggest there is a "dwarf" form, but there is only the one species that will grow differently depending upon the environment.  I've had it attain 7-8 inches across in my outdoor pond in summer, but in the tanks it remains much smaller.  The feather-like roots are quite lovely.  It reproduces fairly rapidly, like most floating plants, and is easy to thin out every week to retain smaller plants.  Sometimes I let a plant grow, and to date they have got up to 3 and 4 inches, but not larger due I suspect to my moderate light and less nutrients than outdoors.
 
Byron.

 

[gmc1]

Great thanks.think I will get a small amount as its for top feeders.

 

[Byron]

Just noticed that I missed the substrate issue previously, so will add a couple comments on this for Khepurr (and anyone else).  Eco-complete was mentioned, and I agree with Nick that it is a waste of money and it has some issues.  I have not used EC myself, but I did set up a 70g with the very similar Flourite (Seachem's so-called "enriched" substrate).  Some aquarists say these substrates improve plant growth, but this was not my experience.  I still had to add liquid fertilizer and substrate tabs, and plant response was no better than with plain sand or fine gravel.  The Flourite cost me $180, compared to around $14 for play sand which is what I now have in this tank, with the same plants doing well after two years.
 
The other issue with both these products is the sharpness.  I went with Flourite because in my hand it felt less abrasive, but after a few weeks I had to remove the corys due to mouth and barbel damage.  The corys recovered after a few weeks in a tank with play sand, though some of the damage did not completely repair (one cory actually lost part of the mouth and looks odd, but otherwise is OK).  Catfish breeders have since told me never to put catfish over these substrates.  From my experience I would agree.
 
Some will advocate these substrates, claiming better plant growth, but in the absence of any accurate scientific tests to prove this, I must question it.  I have never come across any actual evidence of benefits.
 
Byron.

 

[NickAu]

I found that the organic stuff in the EC were easily stirred up by my Plecos every time they moved, And you know what BN Plecos are like for moving around.
Speaking of organic stuff, You can't vacuum the bottom of your tank at water change time because you will remove the "good " stuff in the EC.

 

[Khepurr]

Just noticed that I missed the substrate issue previously, so will add a couple comments on this for Khepurr (and anyone else).  Eco-complete was mentioned, and I agree with Nick that it is a waste of money and it has some issues.  I have not used EC myself, but I did set up a 70g with the very similar Flourite (Seachem's so-called "enriched" substrate).  Some aquarists say these substrates improve plant growth, but this was not my experience.  I still had to add liquid fertilizer and substrate tabs, and plant response was no better than with plain sand or fine gravel.  The Flourite cost me $180, compared to around $14 for play sand which is what I now have in this tank, with the same plants doing well after two years.
 
The other issue with both these products is the sharpness.  I went with Flourite because in my hand it felt less abrasive, but after a few weeks I had to remove the corys due to mouth and barbel damage.  The corys recovered after a few weeks in a tank with play sand, though some of the damage did not completely repair (one cory actually lost part of the mouth and looks odd, but otherwise is OK).  Catfish breeders have since told me never to put catfish over these substrates.  From my experience I would agree.
 

 
Oh man the poor cory

  I'm going to definitely stay away from Fluorite then, and I'm leaning much more towards play sand. 
 
What is your opinion on pool filter sand? I've been looking around at play sand and I've seen some forums mentioning that pool filter sand is inert and less likely to cause spikes in ammonia, ph, etc. 
 

 

 
The tank will be heated, filtered, and of course cycled. The hood that the LFS suggested is the Aqueon 30'' full hood, with a 24'' 17 watt T8 full spectrum lamp. (I think there's also an Aqueon lamp called Floramax specifically meant to grow plants, and I'm willing to get that if it's better.) 
 

 
17 watts over 29 gallons is around 0.6 WPG which would be classified as very low light.  Some people get along with very low light levels and it can work if you stick to low-light plants but I'd consider that too low.  I'd be looking for a hood with two of those T8 tubes rather than just one.
 
Coarser sand is better for plants but finer sand is better for cories.  If you go with sand I'd try not to get the finest as the sand will compact quite tightly which makes it difficult for plant roots to penetrate and can lead to anaerobic conditions.
 

Thanks for the heads up! I'm on the lookout now for a two lamp hood, or one with a bigger light output. (should probably stop listening to the LFS when it comes to tank suggestions...)
 
Is there a way to keep the sand from compacting? Like moving it around myself, breaking apart clumps? Or would that cause more problems in terms of anaerobic conditions and/or stressing out the fish? 

I found that the organic stuff in the EC were easily stirred up by my Plecos every time they moved, And you know what BN Plecos are like for moving around.
Speaking of organic stuff, You can't vacuum the bottom of your tank at water change time because you will remove the "good " stuff in the EC.

Ahh, okay, that makes sense. I never even thought about sucking up the good stuff when cleaning the tank Thanks for the warning! 

One of my seven planted tanks is a 29g with the same dimensions, and I have a single T8 tube (24 inch, which is 20w though some are being made in 17w, more on this momentarily).  Provided you have a good tube, you can manage the plants mentioned; if you double the light with these plants, I would expect algae issues.
 
Now, to the tube.  I only use Hagen's Life-Glo over this tank; this tube does put out more intensity than any other tubes I have tried (on this tank, same tube size).  But there may be others that are as good I haven't tried, but in the US you should be able to find this tube--just make sure it is T8, as Hagen also make this in T5 which won't work in your fixture.  I will add a couple photos of this tank (the aquascape has changed over the four years) to demonstrate it can work; one has another tank reflected, ignore that.
 
On the sand, I've had no issues with play sand which I've had in six tanks for 3-4 years now.  Just don't have it too deep.  Again considering the plants you mention, some are not planted in the substrate anyway (Anubias, Java Fern, Java Moss) but attached to wood or rock, so the substrate won't matter.  I've several species of sword in my tanks and they have done well with the sand.  Malaysian Livebearing snails help to keep the sand good, but even so, some areas of anaerobic activity is part of the biological system and if left alone (like under chunks of rock or wood) not a problem.
 
Byron.

Hm, I'm gonna be on the lookout for 20w's then. The Hagen's you mentioned sounds promising! Your tanks are gorgeous btw, they're all different but still beautiful! Do you have any issues with your floating plants melting because of the light? I'm assuming some plants wouldn't do well with too much light...

 

[Byron]

Oh man the poor cory 

  I'm going to definitely stay away from Fluorite then, and I'm leaning much more towards play sand. 
 
What is your opinion on pool filter sand? I've been looking around at play sand and I've seen some forums mentioning that pool filter sand is inert and less likely to cause spikes in ammonia, ph, etc.
 

 
Pool filter sand can work as far as sand is concerned (at least, many seem to use it) but the issue here is often colour.  The pool filter sand I've seen is white, and you should not use white as a substrate.  This is very un-natural for fish, some will be stressed, some will not show their best colours.  Plus I find white very distracting for me looking at the aquarium, because it is so bright.  Darker sands are better, which is why I use play sand, though these may vary depending where you live.  The Quikrete Play Sand I buy from Home Depot in Western Canada is a mix of black/tan/white/grey and closely resembles the natural sand in Amazonian streams.  My plants have grown well in it, and the corys and loaches seem fine.  Looking down from above the open tank it is obvious how the patterning on all corydoras is suited to blend over this type of sand, and it cannot get much more natural than that.
 

Thanks for the heads up! I'm on the lookout now for a two lamp hood, or one with a bigger light output. (should probably stop listening to theLFS when it comes to tank suggestions...)
 

Hm, I'm gonna be on the lookout for 20w's then. The Hagen's you mentioned sounds promising! Your tanks are gorgeous btw, they're all different but still beautiful! Do you have any issues with your floating plants melting because of the light? I'm assuming some plants wouldn't do well with too much light...
 

 
Before you jump into this, there will be other issues.  More light than what I have already suggested (a Life-Glo T8 in your present fixture) is not necessary for the plants you intend, and will only cause real algae problems.  Also, if you did move to different plants that need more light, you will need to up the nutrients to balance, and this might get you into diffused CO2.  Keeping it simple will mean healthy plants and fish.  If down the road you want to up the level, you will have more experience behind you.
 
My tank lighting is not that strong so the floating plants do well.  Once you have the light (and the Life-Glo in the 24-inch length may be 17w or 20w, doesn't matter, just get the 24-inch T8 Life-Glo), and the plants, you may have to experiment with the light duration each day.  I have found that eight hours max works with no algae problems, but it depends upon the individual tank as factors can vary.  A timer is a good idea to keep the period of "daylight" consistent, good for both the plants and fish.
 

Is there a way to keep the sand from compacting? Like moving it around myself, breaking apart clumps? Or would that cause more problems in terms of anaerobic conditions and/or stressing out the fish?
 

 
I alluded to this previously.  Keep the sand bed shallow, have some substrate rooted plants, get some Malaysian Livebearing Snails...you won't have compaction problems.  The sand in my 5-foot 115g tank is approximately three inches overall, and has been set up for three years now and I have never dug into it.  A couple times I have gone into the sand along the front when re-arranging plants and found it perfectly fresh.  Provided you don't overstock the tank this should not be an issue.

 
Byron.

 

[Khepurr]

 

Oh man the poor cory 

  I'm going to definitely stay away from Fluorite then, and I'm leaning much more towards play sand. 
 
What is your opinion on pool filter sand? I've been looking around at play sand and I've seen some forums mentioning that pool filter sand is inert and less likely to cause spikes in ammonia, ph, etc.
 

 
Pool filter sand can work as far as sand is concerned (at least, many seem to use it) but the issue here is often colour.  The pool filter sand I've seen is white, and you should not use white as a substrate.  This is very un-natural for fish, some will be stressed, some will not show their best colours.  Plus I find white very distracting for me looking at the aquarium, because it is so bright.  Darker sands are better, which is why I use play sand, though these may vary depending where you live.  The Quikrete Play Sand I buy from Home Depot in Western Canada is a mix of black/tan/white/grey and closely resembles the natural sand in Amazonian streams.  My plants have grown well in it, and the corys and loaches seem fine.  Looking down from above the open tank it is obvious how the patterning on all corydoras is suited to blend over this type of sand, and it cannot get much more natural than that.
 
Thanks for the heads up! I'm on the lookout now for a two lamp hood, or one with a bigger light output. (should probably stop listening to theLFS when it comes to tank suggestions...)
 

Hm, I'm gonna be on the lookout for 20w's then. The Hagen's you mentioned sounds promising! Your tanks are gorgeous btw, they're all different but still beautiful! Do you have any issues with your floating plants melting because of the light? I'm assuming some plants wouldn't do well with too much light...
 

 
Before you jump into this, there will be other issues.  More light than what I have already suggested (a Life-Glo T8 in your present fixture) is not necessary for the plants you intend, and will only cause real algae problems.  Also, if you did move to different plants that need more light, you will need to up the nutrients to balance, and this might get you into diffused CO2.  Keeping it simple will mean healthy plants and fish.  If down the road you want to up the level, you will have more experience behind you.
 
My tank lighting is not that strong so the floating plants do well.  Once you have the light (and the Life-Glo in the 24-inch length may be 17w or 20w, doesn't matter, just get the 24-inch T8 Life-Glo), and the plants, you may have to experiment with the light duration each day.  I have found that eight hours max works with no algae problems, but it depends upon the individual tank as factors can vary.  A timer is a good idea to keep the period of "daylight" consistent, good for both the plants and fish.
 

Is there a way to keep the sand from compacting? Like moving it around myself, breaking apart clumps? Or would that cause more problems in terms of anaerobic conditions and/or stressing out the fish?
 

 
I alluded to this previously.  Keep the sand bed shallow, have some substrate rooted plants, get some Malaysian Livebearing Snails...you won't have compaction problems.  The sand in my 5-foot 115g tank is approximately three inches overall, and has been set up for three years now and I have never dug into it.  A couple times I have gone into the sand along the front when re-arranging plants and found it perfectly fresh.  Provided you don't overstock the tank this should not be an issue.

 
Byron.
 


 
Thanks Byron! Play sand sounds like the best my tank, and I'm going to write down these tips for the next time I'm at the LFS and looking at lights! I'll have to take a friend to rein myself in around the plants lol... Thank you so much for the help!