45 Gallon Reef Diary From Setup To...?

SkiFletch

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Well all, Now that I'm finally starting to get a lot of my parts in and tank assembly has begun I figured I'd start my own diary here. I'm planning ultimately to have a fully stocked reef setup here and hopefully this diary will contain plenty of do-it-yourself entries for the new aquarist. Some things I plan on doing myself are:

Designing and building my own sump/refrigium
Designing and building my own overflow system
Creating a self-dosing system
Creating a pulse-width modulated wavemaker

Anyway, off to the start with pictures :) The first shot I have is of the tank on the stand newly painted with black latex paint. Dimensions of the tank are 36"x24"x12" which classifies it as a 45 gallon tall. Its a good thing I'm 6'4" with really long arms cause tank maintenance would be a pain otherwise.
RockCOnstruction1002.jpg


After that, we have a couple shots of the tank with a lot of its baserock in place. Bottom line, I do not have the cash to put into 100+lbs of liverock that I'd like. So, mercifully one of the LFS guys sold me 75lbs of baserock from his old decomissioned 220gal for a whopping $50. By friday I'm going to get a couple big pieces of nice liverock to seed the tank.
RockConstruction1004.jpg


The rock you see here is EXCEPTIONALLY porous and also some pieces are a little brittle due to their age. I'm told by the previous owner that its been in his father's or his possession for well over 20 years at the least, 30+ at the most. Apparently his father was an avid diver back in the 1970's and some of this stuff is straight off ocean reefs. Whether that practice was as illegal then as it is now, I'm not sure. I'm not the expert on marine conservation history, but I would like to point out that such a practice is illegal in most countries I know of today. Anyways, here are some closer shots of the two sides of the tank:
RockConstruction1005.jpg


This shot above of the left side of the tank is actually where I'll be hiding one of my powerheads. Its not very clear in the picture but there is a big hole there in the rock which should perfectly fit one of my pumps.

RockConstruction1006.jpg


As you can see, there are all sorts of different types of rocks and corals here which I hope when fully seeded will look very striking. My next steps are to begin sump design as I wait for my next big orders of parts to come in. Most specifically my refractometer, as I cant very well put proper saltwater in the tank without it (man I wish California were closer to New York :(). I'm assuming that once I fill it and add liverock I'll have a very very long cycle to go through as there is plenty of dead matter on the rocks. Upon elimination of ammonia and nitrites I expect my nitrates to be very high and this leads me to ask the question if this is bad for liverock only? I'm fully prepared to do a near 100% water change to get my nitrates down before I add any fish, but just am wondering at what level nitrates might or might not hurt my liverock.

You may have noticed the sand bed is pretty thin at only an inch or just slightly more to keep anaerobic sand out of the main tank. I plan on creating a deep sand bed with a plenum in my sump for the anaerobic bacteria to do their thing without being disturbed by little critters and releasing toxins. As a side note for those of you reading up on the hobby, anaerobic bacteria can live in sand deeper than 1.5-2" and if a fish stirs that up, you can release some nasty toxins including cyanide (bad).

I'd love to post a picture of my sump plans, but my drawings are all done by hand and my camera doesnt pickup my chicken scratch well so you'll all just have to wait for the pictures. My main challenge when building the sump will be creating it in-place. I've designed it such that its dimensions require it to be assembled piece by piece to fit into the stand. stay tuned for shots of me cursing myself for doing this, despite how clean it will look when completed :)

Anyway, thats episode one, make sure you drop by as I update for more breaking news :)
 
you guys think I should maybe make these images smaller? :) forgot that most people on 1024 resolution might have a hard time reading it :rolleyes:
 
Most saltwater inhabitants and intolerant of excess Nitrates (20ppm+) as this simply does not occur to them in nature. Your live rock contains various types of bacteria some convert Ammonia to Nitrite (Nitrosomonas), some convert Nitrite to Nitrate (Nitrobacter) and finally some convert Nitrate to Nitrogen (Nitrifying Bacteria). Each by-product is toxic to the organism that produced it, failure to remove it results in death. As with any carefully balanced system if you increase one set of parameters too much it causes a breakdown in the chain or cycle.

An overload of Ammonia may kill off a lot of the Nitrosomonas bacteria that feed on it, this in turn starves the Nitrobacter bacteria that rely on their waste and so on up the chain - Ammonia levels spike and the cycle has to start again as the bacteria grow and deal with the excess. This is common when you add more bio-load than the filtration can handle.

An overload of Nitrates may kill off a lot of the Nitrifying Bacteria that feed on it - Nitrate levels spike and the cycle starts to break down, Nitrites then rise as the Nitrobacter bacteria die off due to the excess Nitrates and, following that, Ammonia will spike as the Nitrosomonas bacteria die off due to the excess Nitirites. This happens when water changes are put off, etc.

This is what's known as a 'Tank Crash'

The result is that you have to start 'growing' all the different types of bacteria again, ie. Cycling
 
Ok, then I guess I'll have to watch my ntirates carefully and stay ahead of the cycle :thumbs: . I should probably also get on top of getting the sump and refrigium up asap to have some macro algae to help me do some of the work :)
 
Hopefully tonight I'll purchase the acryllic needed for the sump and get crackin on that. A quick question though for those of you who have built your own sumps, what thickness of acryllic sheeting did you use?
 
I used around 3mm sheets as I have copious amounts of it available. As there is no real water pressure on the acrylic this does the job fine. The only issue i've ever found is that the acrylic bows slightly in the middle on the sheets that form the weirs but nothing that affects the operation of the sump at all.
 
3mm huh? so thats about 1/4" stuff. cool, that saves me a lot on cost :)
 
Yeah, I wouldn't recommend making a tank out of it but for making baffles in a sump it's perfect :D

You should try asking in a shop if they have any broken acrylic poster holders (the ones they use for hanging posters in the windows) as these get broken really easily and are prefect for the job. That's where all my acrylic comes from ;)
 
Ok so sump design has hit a snag... Acryllic is NOT an option. I priced out all the pieces I want and they would collectively run me well over $100 :blink: and there's no way I'm spending the work time with it for that much in parts cost. Glass on the other hand happens to be eons cheaper weighing in at $44. So while I know I promised you guys some lessons on working with acryllic, instead it will be lessons in working with glass. Tomorrow evening I will be purchasing my glass from the hardware store along with a nice tube of caulk and infinite reserves of patience :) so hopefully by sunday night and many pictures later I should have a custom all-glass sump
 
Well, doh, talked to the guys at the hardware and forgot those glass prices were for window glass, not tempered glass :X . So I'll have to go to a glass cutting store tommorrow and see how that goes as far as sump construction goes.

On another front though, my 192w T5 light came today... Too bad DHL decided that the GIANT sign on it that read fragile wasn't worth listening to :grr: . Here's a nice shot of the end of the bulbs

BustedLights006.jpg


At least I was smart enough to get insurance on the item... Now I get to jump through the corporate hoops to get bulbs that are one single piece instead of hundreds of pieces. Lesson re-taught, always get insurance
 
amen to that. had to have two nano cubes replace before i got one in one peice....maybe i should have taken the hint BEFORE i filled it and lost a grand in livestock...anyways...insurance rocks!
 
...............and if they don't offer insurance (like Bavaria-Aquarist) then ask again and/or adhere to all policies religiously ;)

If it's Bavaria-Aquarist though you may as well stick your head in your tank and shout for all the good it will do :grr:
 
Well, it was my birthday today so I'm gonna go ahead and update everyone on my progress :). A few things have been done behind the scenes that I really couldnt get good pictures of so I'll have to describe them to you. First off, I added a second coat of stain to the interior of the stand because I'm a little worried about sump evaporation. Second, I learned that I should probably have a piece of foam under the tank bottom as a "pad" to prevent added point stresses from my rocks. THis proved difficult to remedy as I allready had the tank on the stand and the rocks aquascaped the way I liked them. So because my tank had no base plate to the stand anyways, I stained a peice of wood, and put a piece of foam neoprene between it and the bottom of the tank. I then secured the board with steel brackets to brace it and hold it in place, pressing the foam neoprene up against the bottom of the tank. Most people tend to use polystyrene or uther cheap foams, I merely chose foam neoprene cause I could "borrow" some from the lab I work at (we have yards upon yards of the stuff). The lesson here is, make sure your stand is fully padded and prepared before you go setting up the tank ;)

After that hrudle was climbed, I went about tweaking my sump design but more immportantly, acquiring water. Again, for those just researching the hobby, using RO or DI water is almoast a pre-requisite if you ever intend to keep corals. The trace copper in tap water will be too toxic for most coarals/inverts if you use it and even if you try to replace the water with RO/DI later, the copper trapped in your silicone seals and rockwork may be enough to kill your corals. Its cheaper in the end to buy the purification unit than to waste a couple hundred $$ on corals that perish due to copper. I myself however am simply able to go downstairs to the chemistry lab at work and pick up some DI water so I guess I cheat a little :) Carrying 20 gallons of water is heavy though.

So, i put the water in some big tubs and carted it home. The extra 150lbs in the trunk of my small car was fun to drive with :D. I then brought the water upstairs (again, workout) and mixed a rough amount of water and salt (I'm using Instant Ocean) as per the directions on the bucket. Poured it in over my rockwork via some clever siphoning so as to not disturb the sand too much. Man the water is still pretty cloudy, but it was REALLY cloudy when I first put it in. Anyway, 20 gallons filled just over half the tank which I expected. Here's a shot of the tank 1/2 full:

HalfFull001.jpg


You cant see it in this shot, but one of my two maxi-jet pumps is behind the rockwork in the left corner. Just like to say a quick thanks to aquascaper for giving me the idea of hiding the powerhead :). You'll also of course see the heater central in the tank. This 300w unit will ultimately be moved to the sump, but for now, to get a good SG reading it'll just hang out in the display tank. Currently I only know the specific gravity and temp which are 1.021 and 78f. I'm shooting for 1.023 ultimately and I think I did pretty close for a first time of mixing salt :)

Next up, tommorrow I'll bring 20 more gallons of water home and fill the tank up to the rim. Then on thursday, I'll purchase 20lbs of LR to start seeding the tank and continue with sump work. As a side note to those of you following, I've got two new bulbs on the way to replace my busted ones 2-day air so I'm all set there :). Hope when they arrive the fixture isnt broken :thumbs:
 
Looking good :thumbs:

Just make sure you have easy access to the powerhead in case of any mechanical breakdown. In my case I have one piece of rock over the top and the rest of the rock built up around the sides so that if anything needs adjusting I can just lift off a single piece of rock and take the powerhead out.
 

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