40w enough?

panboy

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im starting to plany my 46g tank, not to heavily right now, but hopefully later.

1. i have about 1wpg, is this enough for a planted tank? there are also 2 reflectors on each side of the flourescent bulb, does this help?
ive heard about 2 wpg is good, but then u need a CO2 injector.

2. could my plants live off 1wpg with no CO2 injector?
3. what does the CO2 injector do?
4. also, is fertilizer needed? i have a few plants in my 10g and they are really healthy withouit fertilizer
 
1. -- 1WPG is not enough for a heavily planted tank...unless you choose your plants VERY carefully... you could grow anubias just fine, but they grow very slowly... also, you could most likely grow java ferns and im sure some other people will have some further suggestions.

2. -- see #1, increased light does mean increased need for CO2, but most of the plants that only need such low light, will probably do fine without CO2 either way as far as i know...

3. -- uhm...injects CO2 into your water ;)
there are a couple methods of doing this:
a. chemical -- a chemical carbon suppliment (not as effective, but VERY easy)
b. DIY/CO2 Generator - these can be bought or built and use yeast to generate CO2
c. Pressurized CO2 injection - this uses a pressurized bottle of CO2 and is much more costly that the other two methods

4. -- i rarely use ferts, but i do add nitrogen, co2, carbon(liquid), phosphorus, and iron, these probably wouldnt be required in such a low light/no CO2 system...in fact they will probably grow algae as would ferts

so basically, if you want your choice of plants, you need to do some work, if you like the plants that you limited to...then you're fine! if you want a lush aquatic garden, you will probably need more light, co2, chemicals, and A LOT of patience... its a lot of work but i think it is worth it (mine is still in the process of getting there)

cheers!
 
Out of curiosity, panboy, are you sure about the 40W rating?

I ask because all the 46 gallon tanks I've seen (bowfronts) are 36" long, and a 36" normal output fluorescent bulb is, at most, 30W.

That being said, I ran 30W over 46 gallons for about five months. No CO2, the only fert was a dose of Flourish Excel (another form of carbon, not really CO2) about twice a week.

Many of my plants did great to pretty good. These include hornwort, anubias, crypt wendtii, moss balls (marimo balls) and amazon swords.

Those that did 'ok' to 'not so well' were water sprite, pennywort, java fern, various 'vals', cabomba, and banana plants.

Your results, of course, may vary.
 
i think i know what u mean. the light strip can take a 40w, thats waht is says on the back, and i just researched and i dont see a 36" more than 30 watts, so mine is probably 30.

how is your set up now for a the 46 if u still have it. ive been wnated to upgrade, but compressed co2 is REALLY expensive, and i need to find anotehr way.
how bout lighting? how would u fit more than 2 flourescents, would u need 2 strip lights? if so, there would be no room to put them though....

thanks
 
i ended up building a custom hood with 4x20W for my 29 gallon, and i use a Hagen CO2 Generator as well as Excel...

you could probably build a hood with 5x30W or 6x30W (or more if you want to do compact flouresents...but these raise the cost significantly) apparently, you can also overdrive NO (normal output) flouresents as well...but i havent experimented with that as of yet.

cheers!
 
I, too, have built my own "hoods" for the last 20+ years. I run at roughly 3.5 Watts per gallon - it is not a fixed rule but as a guideline that is what I have. I use soda bottles and yeast for my CO2.
 
check this link, it tells you basically how to build a canopy

DIY Canopy

I didn't use the water proof end caps on mine. I bought 4 strip lights (for my 3o Gal), took the guts out and used them (cheaper this way)
 
im glad that you still have that link... i wish our thread was still around!! (oazanki and I started a long thread about a DIY canopy but it disapeared after the forums went down) :(

thanks oazanki!!

ill post the pics that i have of mine....
 
here is just the lid:
canopy-lid.jpg


here is is on the tank right after i built it... (the tank looks VERY different now, and the hood is painted black):
canopy-on.jpg


here's a rough wiring diagram:
canopy-wiring-diagram.jpg


i can take some more pics if you would like... but using these and the instructions posted by oazanki should get you started. the only difference is that on mine, the hinges are on the top...the moveable lid goes most of the way back, but there is a stationary strip about 2 inches wide where the hinges attache...it made the design a little lighter and then i didnt have to worry about where i put the bulbs ;)

cheers!
 
how is your set up now for a the 46 if u still have it. ive been wnated to upgrade, but compressed co2 is REALLY expensive, and i need to find anotehr way.
how bout lighting? how would u fit more than 2 flourescents, would u need 2 strip lights? if so, there would be no room to put them though....

Here's what I did. Just to be clear, what I have is an All-Glass 46 gallon bowfront tank.

The first thing I did was to buy a new top, and ditch the black plastic one that only has the one thin glass strip to let light through. I bought a top made completely of glass (called the Versa-Top by the All-Glass company) -- for info, it cost roughly $40. This allows you to add wider lights, and more lights.

I was concerned about "too much light" -- for various reasons, I do not want a setup where I "need" to inject CO2. I realized this limited my plant selection, but that was fine with me. So, I scrapped the Compact Flruorescent idea.

Instead, I got a dual-bulb normal output fluorescent light strip. It houses two 30W bulbs, for 60W over 46 gallons. edit: And, I should add that not surprisingly, my plants are doing noticeably better, after just a week or so. I do not inject CO2, but have begun dosing regularly with Flourish Excel.

For info, with the Versa Top, there's room to place two single-bulb strips, rather than one dual-bulb strip. Single strips are generally a lot cheaper.

In fact, there is room for the dual-bulb strip in back, and my original single-bulb strip in front, so at times I do run three bulbs (90W) at a time. But in this case, the single strip sits on the hinged part of the lid (which can be a pain), and just slightly overhangs the corners -- meaning it gets put away when guests come over, according to the Keep the Domestic Peace Rule #32b. :lol: )


About CO2, yes a pressurized system can be pretty expensive to start out, but I'm pretty sure the operating costs after that are pretty minimal. You could also run a "DIY CO2" system, which is usually a diffuser, often a reactor, and a couple of soda bottles in which you ferment yeast. A search for "DIY CO2" will probably explain a typical setup.

edit: also, as you may have guessed, builing a good-looking canopy for a bowfront tank is a little trickier. Even if you did this, you'd still want a glass top of some sort under the canopy, as you shouldn't run fluoro bulbs directly over water, for safety reasons.
 
thanks for all that info


yeah i think a canopy will be a little too tricky.
i already have the all glass top which came with my tank.

i might try to ghetto-rig my flourescent strip and somehow make 2 fit in there, with reflectors. maybe....
 
actually, oazanki and i both started this project by adding multiple flouresent replacement bulbs to our stock canopies. these are the ones that screw into a regular incandecent socket.... we gutted the original hood, and bought some sockets from the hardware store... this actually works pretty well, but i dont think it gives you the same selection as far as color temperature goes... by setting up my own NO flouresent fixture, i was able to use the following bulbs (4x20W):

Hagen AquaGlo 18000K
Corallife SpectraMax 6500K
GE AquaRay 9000K
Corallife 10000K

which seems to be working quite well. we are still working on reflectors

cheers!
 
If that's your plan, panboy, you might also consider just buying a cheap single-bulb strip, and use it along with your existing one, one right in front of the other.

36" is sort of an odd length for fluoros, but you may be able to find a strip at a local DIY place (e.g. Home Depot, Lowe's), for $10-15, and just spray paint the top of it black (or whatever color your other strip is).
 
thats a good idea,
however, i have the all glass top and the hinge is right where the other strip would fit. its a thick plastic hindge, thats likhe 1 1/2 inches wide, which i think would interfere with the light.
or does that not even matter?
 

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