Water Change?

robbie506

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if you see my other post i have a few problems with the tank (im not starting the same one again)

i have to do a few water changes as i have high ammonia readings so im going to change50% of the water today and 25% for the next few days but how do i get the replaced water to the right temp as i only have one heater and that will be with the fish whilst im cleaning. i know it might be a silly question but i dont want to lose any more fish.

and do i put the treatments in just the new water or the excisting water aswell?

thank you
 
There are a few ways of getting the water closer to tank temperature. Depending on your home water heating system often using a mix of hot/cold tap is fine. Your concern should be your hot water storage, if it is a boiler home heating system that taps off hot water for domestic use, or a loft tank that gravity feeds faucets you are better to err on the side of caution at this point & not use it.

Boiling some hot water, and mixing it in buckets is the best option for large quick water changes where a big temperature change isn't desired. Letting it sit out to warm to room temperature is another option.

If you add cold tap water in slowly the temperature drop is often minimal, cooler water changes are a common procedure for inducing fish to spawn. Many folks with larger tanks do 25% water changes with cold tap with no problems.

I believe you are using Aquasafe, good product. You can add it to buckets if this is what you are using for water changes, or add it to the tank if you hose water in. I always suggest doubling up on the dechlorinator in cycling or newly cycling tanks, it won't hurt anything and covers for your local water supplier adding in extra disinfectants. They will do this when needed, without any notice.
 
There are a few ways of getting the water closer to tank temperature. Depending on your home water heating system often using a mix of hot/cold tap is fine. Your concern should be your hot water storage, if it is a boiler home heating system that taps off hot water for domestic use, or a loft tank that gravity feeds faucets you are better to err on the side of caution at this point & not use it.

Boiling some hot water, and mixing it in buckets is the best option for large quick water changes where a big temperature change isn't desired. Letting it sit out to warm to room temperature is another option.

If you add cold tap water in slowly the temperature drop is often minimal, cooler water changes are a common procedure for inducing fish to spawn. Many folks with larger tanks do 25% water changes with cold tap with no problems.

I believe you are using Aquasafe, good product. You can add it to buckets if this is what you are using for water changes, or add it to the tank if you hose water in. I always suggest doubling up on the dechlorinator in cycling or newly cycling tanks, it won't hurt anything and covers for your local water supplier adding in extra disinfectants. They will do this when needed, without any notice.

thats perfect thank you worry over hope fully wont lose any more fish now.

would you use the aqyasafe stresszyme+ and the safe water treatment at the same time or leave a couple days between each of the treatments? my water is not from a gravity loft its direct from the boiler. so is it best to just get it to room temp then?
 
I would just use the Aquasafe, dechlorinated water is all you need. If the boiler water is part of your home heating system I wouldn't use it, as it gets recirculated for home heating, with the possibility of picking up elements from the plumbing. If it's a fee standing water heating unit it's generally safe to use, I do this all the time.
 
If it's a combi boiler. you can use the hot water straight from that. It's only if you have a hot water tank in the airing cupboard that you shouldn't use the hot tap.
 
Im interested in why that is the case - I thought most water treatments removed heavy metal content anyway - so what is the risk of using water from a hot water tank? It would only constitute about 15% of the new water anyway.
 
There is a big difference between having lots of metal in the water and the traces the conditioners are designed to neutralize. Even not so heavy metals, like copper, can be deadly to fish in rather small concentrations.
 

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