Water Change, 50% Good?

kevinthecow

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October-18-08027.jpg


Thats what my tank looks like, except a little lighter.

The water's getting green, and Im not sure. Is it algae related?

I'm planning a 50-40% water change right now, do you think it'll get rid of the colour?

It's getting annoying, and I can barely see my fish. (Only see two frogs and a some loaches, sometimes I'll rarely see my BST and bala.)

): Heelp.
 
is your tank near a window? if so move it or put something to stop the light getting in as much

do 50% now, do 50% tomorrow

cut down on feeding as this may be helping the algae bloom.

i would maybe consider catching your fish in a bucket

and doing 100% water change and a good clean of gravel and ornaments and tank walls!!

oh also, does ur tank have its own lighting?? if so what type? and how long is it left on for?
 
peter, im not sure about the lighting but I turn it off at night. So its like, 10-15H of light.

Ill do a 50% tmr.

(BTW, i just did a 50% today.)


AND AND, i told you its more lighter than that. This is a picture I took when i had a huge algae bloom.

The water is pretty clear now, but its still a little green. Ill post pics tmr about it.
 
What stock does the tank have, and what filter are you running.

Green water IME is down to one of three (or combination of these three) things;

Too much light

Overstocking

Overfeeding

What are your water stats for ammonia, nitrite, nitrate and pH?

All the best
Rabbut
 
That would be green water. If it's in the sun, you need to block it out. Leave the light off for 3 to 4 days and then perform an 80% water change. The light's out will kill the free floating algae and the waterchange will remove them from your tank (well 80% anyways.) You could use an UV sterilizer. Some shops will let you borrow one if they have it.
 
UV sterilisers cure the symptom and not the caurse. For these types of issues, I am heavily against their use. There is 9 times out of 10 an underlying issue with greenwater, and leaving it will normaly lead to stressed fish that are more suseptible to disease (in the case of overstocking/over feeding). Direct sunlight in summer can caurse temerature issues in the tank also.

Remove the caurse, remove the problem

Mask the caurse with UV and get another problem :good:

Don't get me wrong, there are situations where UV is invaluable, but I don't think greenwater is one of them :nod:

All the best
Rabbut
 
I agree Rabbut. It would be better to treat the disease instead of the symptom.

The OP has been having some problems with stocking in his tanks (ammonia spikes.) I feel that this is the true issue at the heart of the cause. Once that is straightened out, the OP should be fine and can then use one of the 2 methods mentioned.
 
more likely its light.

parameters :

ph : acidic 6.2ish
ammonia : 0
nitrite : 0
nitrate : 0

like i said, ill cut down the light for some hours.

(Prolly only on night/feeding)

:] tmr, 60-50% ill post pics afterwards.
 
Hi, Kevin,
speaking as One Who Knows Nothing, from my seat in the peanut gallery, - everybody's right.
Green water - and algae in general - being opportunistic and primitive lifeforms which survive in any conditions which can support their type of life, propagate when conditions are better.
The combination of an increased food source - i.e. ammonia - AND light typically produces this at problem levels.
A well-planted tank may sit in daylight, even with direct sunlight involved, without developing any real algae problem of the type, but reduce/eliminate the plants and increase the ammonia and suddenly 'soup's on'.
Pea soup, that is.

Kevin, if the algae's sucking up your nitrates as well as everything else so rapidly that none shows on tests, it will starve itself down, and it sounds as though it's already doing so.
But the ammonia produced as it dies will feed survivors which will grow to match the food source...

The standard approach has usually been to COMPLETELY cover the tank (no peeking) for three days with a solid wall of something along the lines of newspaper taped on, in preventing ANY light from reaching the algae.
It's generally recommended NOT to feed during this time, so your fish will hate you forever, well, at least until the next time you actually feed.
But, boy, will you feel guilty.

As the algae dies off, more ammonia will be produced, so it's best to do a good water change first, before wrapping the tank, and be prepared to do a series of water changes after, along with a filter rinse, obviously not in tap water, if that needs to be said.
Even if the worst is removed in a good water change after uncovering the tank, enough dead matter/algae/'nutrients' will probably remain that small water changes conducted several times over that week following would be a good idea.
Even if you don't usually use charcoal, I'd strongly suggest you do for now - and, if at all possible, stuff enough filter wool in your HOB (if that's what you're using) so that the water is forced to flow through this and at least some of the 'Ugh' will be trapped for removal.
If you have a built-in or other system that doesn't allow for this, then never mind...

I suspect the plastic cups and other articles decorating your tank are trapping food and other matter.
I've kept plastic 'travel cups' in with fish temporarily staying in small containers where they had to be dipped out for complete water changes, and they've tended to pick up any stuff going in there, so nearly always had to be emptied prior to coaxing the fish in, so that fish poop/uneaten food wouldn't get carried together with the fish into the clean water.
If that happens in one day in a small container, it will likely also do so over the course of a week in a larger one.
Debris need not be very visible to promote ammonia production...
To avoid a repetition, your best bet might be to alter your decorating scheme to things which don't tend to trap stuff - and if you were to try loading up on live plants, a good deal of any ammonia produced would likely be sucked up as it appeared.

And really, given the choice between fish-poisoning ammonia or a plant which consumes it - even if it's green water algae - the second is far easier on both you and your fish.
It's just sometimes hard to see that through a solid green haze...
 
I have no traces with ammonia though.. or the rest of the parameters.

:/

Is it because of the light, just the light? I'll try to cut down their food, so first come first serve and such..

:P Ill do a larger water change tmr then.

Thanks alot! :D Heres some pics, let me upload onto photobucket first.
 
BEFORE :
October252008016.jpg

AFTER:
November-15-08054.jpg


(After the 50% today.)


The top pic is BEFORE BEOFRE, like two months ago. :D but it was that colour this morning, except a lil lighter.
 
Boy, I can soooo empathize - I have one just like that, from earth being kicked up in a Walstad tank, by a little plec I'd figured on having out and into another tank a month ago or more.
And yours is such a nice-looking tank, too.
Sorry, I don't think I expressed myself clearly enough - bear with me - I'm so tired my eyes are crossing - brain-cells, too.
Luckily I'm used to me being like that, but I guess you're not, lol.

No, actually, it probably isn't just the light - and this is important.
I hope you don't mind if I 'shout' a bit, to make things stand out hither and yon?
Most UnCanadian of me, I know, although it's actually not meant as a 'shout', merely emphasis - but this absolutely can't be missed.
The green water has to be cleared completely so you can get your tank sorted out ASAP - so this needs to be clear - and that's definitely not my forte, darn it.
Bear with me and I'll try...

Normally, even with no ammonia or nitrIte readings, there's nitrAte present, because in a non-Walstad, the nitrifying bacteria are converting this to nitrAte - so you usually have a nitrAte reading around 20.
WHERE, OH WHERE, DID THE NITRATES GO

It seems likely that the absence of nitrAte - as well as of ammonia and nitrIte - in your test results is due to the green water algae consuming this, which would also explain why your green water recently reduced somewhat.
It had propagated up to the amount of 'food' available and began to starve back.
THE ALGAE ATE YOUR NITRATES! SO -

But as the green water organisms begin to die off, from lack of food, more ammonia will be produced by this rotting algae, as it would by any dead, rotting matter, broken down by other organisms.
So, this new, self-produced source of ammonia can cause another increase in the green water thickness, because now there's more food available for the algae.
THEY'LL DIE AND MAKE AMMONIA

In my case, the various large water changes done in my affected tank make no difference in the long run, (or even much in the short term) because I still have a baby Bristlenose stirring up earth into the water column, creating a 'food' supply for green water in what I hope is still a well-planted, ammonia-sucking jungle.
So until I get the other tank reorganized - which has been delayed due to fish and other emergency stuff - and get baby Bristlenose out and transferred, (if I can find her in there) the green water will remain - and that's OK in the sense that I'd rather have that than ammonia in with my fish.
AND GROW TO MAKE US GROANIA

The situation has to alter so that the tank itself - whether predominately through bacterial nitrification or plants more directly using ammonia - can cope easily with the biological load.
The current alternatives possible, in both our cases: algae overgrowth, or toxins that can sicken and/or kill our fish.
I've had plastic cups in tanks (as explained in previous post) that have collected fish poop and uneaten food overnight - I can see what look like plastic cups in your tank as decorations.
I don't know, of course, but I think those and anything else likely to catch debris - which will produce ammonia as it breaks down - are likely a cause of ammonia spikes and the algae which increased to feed on the ammonia.

I've had bad green water before, and the easiest solution which works is to WRAP THE ENTIRE TANK THICKLY IN NEWSPAPER carefully taped up so that NO light can reach the algae.
It NEEDS to be left like that for 3 days - NO feeding, NO peeking - just left wrapped and dark.

You do need to do a good water change before wrapping, and after unwrapping, and, ideally, small ones perhaps every second day or so for about a week after that - dead matter produces ammonia, and algae is present in every such environment.

This should clear up the current problem of greenwater - but there's always a reason for such extreme overgrowth.

I know what mine is, and it'll be dealt with. (Eventually - it's the least of my worries right now, since the fish aren't at risk.)
If I'm lucky, the tank won't be wrecked by having earth scattered throughout the substrate intended to keep it out of the water column so that this wouldn't happen - and wouldn't have happened if the plec had been transferred when expected.

In your case, I'd really suggest removing all decorations that can trap stuff and replacing them with something less likely to do that.

I have tried removing green water with water changes, and that works in mild cases where the problem is simply something like concealed but removable dead and rotting plant matter, maybe with the odd fungussed bit of spirulina tablet or vegetable sneakily hiding in the bushes .

It sucks, but for a bad case, the wrapping trick almost certainly will have to be done sooner or later, and the sooner the better.
I was going to tackle this part separately, once things were underway, but here goes, and please pardon the 'shouting - this HAS to stand out.

If there's NO ammonia, nitrite, OR nitrate remaining in your tank, WHAT ARE YOUR NITRIFYING BACTERIA EATING?
HOW LONG DOES IT TAKE SHORT-LIVED BACTERIA TO STARVE TO EXTINCTION?
ONCE THE GREEN-WATER'S GONE, THE NITRIFYING BACTERIA WILL STILL BE DEAD AND NOTHING WILL BE FEEDING ON AMMONIA OR CONVERTING NITRITES UNTIL THE TANK IS RECYCLED.

I'll leave things there, at that point, until I know if I've expressed this clearly enough to be understandable - as I said, that's simply not my forte...
 
Wow. That does not look like a fish tank. Why is there trash in it? Looks like plastic cups? Do you have fish in that tank?

I have you are going to need to do more then one 50% water change for that. Do a 50% as soon as you can then the next day do another. Watch your ammonia and nitrite levels. Then after that you might want to think about doing regular 25% water changes every week.

How long has it been like that? Yes that is algae for sure.
 
Has your filter died??

"So its like, 10-15H of light." is that hours?? Thats a LOT of light. I generally have our tank lights on for 8hrs a day, max. I have had a green algea bloom before and i had to persevre with water changes till it disppeared. No lighting either. While i didnt cover my tank i found the light off when combined with regular water changes got rid of it pretty quick. I also had to wash everything down. Walls, ornaments, filter sponge...

I would steer clear of algea treatments as most are harmfull to the fish.

Good luck and remember to be patient.
 

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