Thinking Of Starting A Tank Again!

okay. Bc i have a bottle of cycle.
 
Ammonia 0.50
Nitrite 0
 
Hmm, ammonia has not really moved.
 
Addign the bottle of Nutrafin cycle wont do any harm, might even help if lucky.
 
Maybe a silly question here but is you filter and heater running during this cycle?
 
Cycling is done a little better in warmer temps, anywhere around 24C to 29C or 75F to 85F, no higher.
 
And also what is your ph?
I forgot, sorry.
 
Cyclign is best done between 6.5 to 8.0, the closer the pH is to 8.0, the faster the cycle goes. Below 6.5, the cycle can run slow, much more below 6.5 cycle may not even start or stall altogether.
 
heater is at giving almost 80F PH is 7.6. filter is running yes.
so it's ok to add Cycle formula?
 
Yeah, adding that Nutrafin won't do any harm, might even help.
 
If nothing happens in a couple of days, would do a water change and start again with a fresh full dose of ammonia.
 
pH is perfect and heater perfect at 80F.
 
Very weird. It says if it's less than .75 add more ammonia. so i'm i suppose to add more if it's at .50??
I just added the cycle formula.
 
It says if ammonia is under 0.75ppm AND nitrite is clearly over 2ppm to add a full ammonia dose.

What is the nitrite level now?

And hope that bottled stuff does something but we'll see.
 
Oohhhh, nitrite is 0 lol. Since I added the cycle formula the tank now smells like rotten dirt/eggs?
 
Just did a quick test no change. I will try tomorrow.
 
Think your cycle has stalled.

Could be down to adding too much ammonia at start of cycle.

Either way a big water change will reset things.

Then add one drop of ammonia at a time, test ammonia 30 mins after each drop, you're looking for preferably 1ppm but 2ppm ammonia max, as remember this will only be for shrimps or a single betta, very low bio-load.

This happens occasionally, happened to me once! :/
 
So I do 80% water change, add one drop every 30min(max 5), till it reads at least 2ppm?
 
edit: just did the water change will report in a few hours on the ammonia.
 
Add one drop of ammonia, test after each drop, ideal number is 1ppm for your planned bio-load. But 2ppm is acceptable, just mean will take a little longer to cycle.

1ppm is the target. 2ppm is ok. 3ppm is passable but not necessary.

Anything above 5ppm is asking for the cycle to stall, 8ppm above will be far too high and will very likely kill the cycle.

The cycling article uses 3ppm ammonia as standard for most tanks from 10gals US and above due to the simple fact there may be more fish, shrimps and snails allowable than a small 5 gal US as the stocking options are much fewer.
 
So you did not add any ammonia after the 80% water change?
 
If thats the case, then its a likely scenario that you had overdosed on ammonia if its at 2ppm now after the wtar change, meaning that you had roughly 10ppm ammonia. That would very likely be the reason why the cycle has stopped.
 
Too much ammonia will overwhelm the bacs, hence why we need to be sure of how much ammonia we add to the tanks when we do a water change.
 
Hmm, i'd do another large water change, to be certain your water params have reset. At least its only a 5 gal tank, easy to do.
 
In fact when you calculate your ammonia dosages, using the forum calculator, bearing in mind to ensure the ammonia strength is correct, 1ppm desired ammonia level, 4 gallons of water volume ( this is after deducting @ 15% for substrate, plants and decor) you will have a more accurate idea of how much ammonia you should be adding for your stages when ready for ammonia full doses.
 
no i added 5 drops after the water change.
 
edit: okay i read what you said wrong. I started over...
 
80% water change
1 drop ammonia
 
will report shortly on the results of this test.
 

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