T5 Bulbs

[PrairieSunflower]

My tank light fixture takes a T5 34 inch bulb.... I have one I bought from an aquarium shop and have used for several months.... I think it is just too bright and causing most of my algae problems....

My question is.... does a 34 inch bulb exist that is less bright? I can't find anything.

 

[mike455555]

how long is your light on for?
what are your water parameters?
what type of algae is it?

 

[bodge99]

Hello,

I assume that you have T5 39W tubes.. The power output is standard for the tube length.

You have a few options:

Use some sort of "shade" (probably a no-go!)

Look for a tube with a different light temperature (colour mix).

Convert the lighting to use a shorter (lower power tube) .. also probably a no-go!

Change the ballast to a dimmable one.

The second might be the easiest to look at first.

Bodge99.

 

[JenCliBee]

There is actually some really good info here if eloborated slightly...if i may

Hello,

I assume that you have T5 39W tubes.. The power output is standard for the tube length.

You have a few options:

Use some sort of "shade" (probably a no-go!) This is actually quite easy to do, 2 options, use a reflector but reverse it or use a floating plant.

Look for a tube with a different light temperature (colour mix). This doesn't actually matter, plants (and algae) will use any bulb colour to photosynthesise, so basically if it's a 39w bulb... it will always remain a 39w bulb no matter what colour range used.

Convert the lighting to use a shorter (lower power tube) .. also probably a no-go!

Change the ballast to a dimmable one. In all honesty, you may aswell change the complete unit if this was a considered idea

The second might be the easiest to look at first.

Bodge99.

To the OP, finding the source of why algae is present is the key, this could be the presence of ammonia, lack of flow and or lack/low co2.... no ferts etc.... there is alot which can cause algae, lighting will always be the driver so if the other elements that plants needs are either not there is low, the algae problem will always persist.

 

[PrairieSunflower]

how long is your light on for?
what are your water parameters?
what type of algae is it?

My light is usually on from about 8am until 7pm. I did try a period of having it on less and it made no difference.

Water stats are all stable with 0's and nitrates always around 10.

Brown algae... the only bit about it is that it also starts on plants.

Hello,

I assume that you have T5 39W tubes.. The power output is standard for the tube length.

You have a few options:

Use some sort of "shade" (probably a no-go!)

Look for a tube with a different light temperature (colour mix).

Convert the lighting to use a shorter (lower power tube) .. also probably a no-go!

Change the ballast to a dimmable one.

The second might be the easiest to look at first.

Bodge99.

I have a removable fixture in the hood, but the anchors only fit a bulb of that length.

A shade is a possibility. I do use a condensation guard/tray across the top of the tank.... I wonder if they make something tinted....

I need to google ballast as I have no idea what that is!

I tried to grow more duckweed... but it all ends up on one side of the tank and didn't seem to be helping anyway.

I think the shade idea is worth looking into.

 

[bodge99]

Hello,

I assume that you have T5 39W tubes.. The power output is standard for the tube length.

You have a few options:

Use some sort of "shade" (probably a no-go!) This is actually quite easy to do, 2 options, use a reflector but reverse it or use a floating plant. Yep.. I did actually suggest this on another forum..
You would not believe the abuse I got!

Look for a tube with a different light temperature (colour mix). This doesn't actually matter, plants (and algae) will use any bulb colour to photosynthesise, so basically if it's a 39w bulb... it will always remain a 39w bulb no matter what colour range used. Yes the tube power dissipation will remain at 39W, however different phosphors have varying conversion efficiencies. I also have had discussions with an aquatic biologist (unsure of the exact title, sorry) who stated that photosynthesis efficiency varies with colour temperature... I agree that it would be difficult to quantify this.



Convert the lighting to use a shorter (lower power tube) .. also probably a no-go!

Change the ballast to a dimmable one. In all honesty, you may as well change the complete unit if this was a considered idea Actually this is very easy and cheap to do.. Significantly cheaper than purchasing a new lighting unit. I've done this conversion a couple of times for people.

The second might be the easiest to look at first.

Bodge99.

 

[JenCliBee]

Use some sort of "shade" (probably a no-go!) This is actually quite easy to do, 2 options, use a reflector but reverse it or use a floating plant. Yep.. I did actually suggest this on another forum..
You would not believe the abuse I got!

Which one, the reverse reflector or the floating plants?..... some people do have strange views lol

Look for a tube with a different light temperature (colour mix). This doesn't actually matter, plants (and algae) will use any bulb colour to photosynthesise, so basically if it's a 39w bulb... it will always remain a 39w bulb no matter what colour range used. Yes the tube power dissipation will remain at 39W, however different phosphors have varying conversion efficiencies. I also have had discussions with an aquatic biologist (unsure of the exact title, sorry) who stated that photosynthesis efficiency varies with colour temperature... I agree that it would be difficult to quantify this.

Apparently this is actually incorrect, i think the only colour that a plant don't/cant use is green, all other colours a plant will adapt itself to and use it in exactly the same way equally.... this is well documented on another specialised plant forum, both by hobbyist and some very very in the know people including scientists. So going by this info, one colour spectrum bulb will grow plants equally aswel as the next. This is the reason i mentioned a 39w bulb will always remain a 39w bulb. The only reason people should chose different Kelvin bulbs is purely esthetics.

I am no scientist or botanist so everything is purely regurgitated.... if you want some info on it mate, i will TRY and find some threads regarding the matter if i can.

Convert the lighting to use a shorter (lower power tube) .. also probably a no-go!

Change the ballast to a dimmable one. In all honesty, you may as well change the complete unit if this was a considered idea Actually this is very easy and cheap to do.. Significantly cheaper than purchasing a new lighting unit. I've done this conversion a couple of times for people.

Apologies mate, i just assumed the OP was using one of the Arcadia units, where there fully encased..... what i meant by buying a new unit was because they are so cheap second hand it wasn't worth the hassle swapping out ballasts when they could probably by a whole smaller watt unit cheaper than the ballast itself.



 

[bodge99]

Hello,

A very interesting comment regarding photosynthesis, thanks for that!.. I too am no scientist but like you, I try and ask questions about things where I can.

If the experts have differing opinions, then what chance do "mere mortals" have?

I see your point of view regarding the lights.. I just like finding cheaper solutions for potentially expensive problems.

BTW, the abuse was regarding a suggestion to use a reflector in reverse... go figure!

Regards,

Bodge99.

 

[PrairieSunflower]

Maybe I should explain better what my equipment is. I had to google my light fixture as I forgot what it is... it is an ultraseal controler... and it seems I have a 30 inch bulb and not a 34 inch like I thought! I bought that light fixture as it was the only one that fit my aquarium. I bought my aquarium second hand, and though they included a light fixture, I had no way to make that one fit. (Got tank, hood, light fixture, filter and heater - tossed that, for £20).

I think my hood is a clearseal crown hood... on google that looks about the same. I have some hooks inside to hold the bulb and holes for the wires to come out the back.

So far... I am wondering if maybe I can replace my condensation trays with some sort of tinted plastic... maybe like sunglasses... only, I'm not sure how I could get them cut easily so my wires will come through. I do have a ledge inside for it to rest on.

 

[SO19Firearms]

Go for about 6hrs of light - When you say you tried less and it made no difference do you mean the algae didnt all die or that you got rid of it all, then changed the lighting and it happened again...?

An option I didnt see mentioned was to start adding CO2 to justify the lighting....but that would be more money

 

[bodge99]

Hello,

Does this hood have two holes towards either end which allows the tube sockets through from the rear of the hood?

If so, are the sockets like these?

http/www.aquaworld.ie/56,555,waterproof-tube-socket-t8-26mm-1m

These are T8 (for 1" (26mm)) tubes. T5 versions are just smaller.

If so, then you should be able to use a shorter tube.

This depends on the ballast used (The electronics that run the tubes).

Unless the ballast is "potted" into epoxy resin... or is a no-name, board only version built into the hood, then it should have its designed power rating written on the case somewhere.

That said, you should be perfectly O.K. using the next tube size down, but be aware that you **might** be overdriving the tube slightly (reduces its life slightly).

It all depends on the design of the ballast.

If you could supply some pics of the electronics (ballast and tube sockets) then I'll see what I can find for you. [looking for the ballast make, model No. and number of connections].

Bodge99

 

[PrairieSunflower]

Go for about 6hrs of light - When you say you tried less and it made no difference do you mean the algae didnt all die or that you got rid of it all, then changed the lighting and it happened again...?

An option I didnt see mentioned was to start adding CO2 to justify the lighting....but that would be more money

I did less hours of light, did my best to clean off algae from the plants and it made no difference to the amount of algae. Nothing died off and the algae on the plants returned to how they were when the light was on longer.

I have currently "downgraded" the number of plants in my tank... don't know if this will make a difference. I was about medium planted but decided to rescape (this week actually) and have a lot less plants. So you suppose this will make a difference to the CO2 in my tank (without having the CO2 contraption)?

Hello,

Does this hood have two holes towards either end which allows the tube sockets through from the rear of the hood? Yes

If so, are the sockets like these? Yes.

http/www.aquaworld...cket-t8-26mm-1m

These are T8 (for 1" (26mm)) tubes. T5 versions are just smaller.

If so, then you should be able to use a shorter tube. Might be that... found a link to what I think I might have... http/www.seapets.co.uk/products/aquarium-supplies/fish-tank-equipment/aquarium-lighting/fluorescent-tube-control-units/ultraseal-t8-lighting-controller-8-watt.html I think I have the 25-30 watt version. Thing is... in my hood I don't have the means to anchor a different length of tube. I haven't a clue about about how to go about moving the anchors (thing that you pop the tube into, not the electric bit, the bit that holds it up), I haven't anything that could drill new holes into metal.

This depends on the ballast used (The electronics that run the tubes).

Unless the ballast is "potted" into epoxy resin... or is a no-name, board only version built into the hood, then it should have its designed power rating written on the case somewhere. By ballast, do you mean the control switch? (like in my link above) Mine looks just like that... a very very long cord from the light fixture ends to the controller itself. I keep the controller under my stand rather than in the back of the hood.

That said, you should be perfectly O.K. using the next tube size down, but be aware that you **might** be overdriving the tube slightly (reduces its life slightly).

It all depends on the design of the ballast.

If you could supply some pics of the electronics (ballast and tube sockets) then I'll see what I can find for you. [looking for the ballast make, model No. and number of connections]. The only writing on it says... Arcadia on the top... then underneath ACU30X, Tube: 25-30 W, 26mm dia. Batch 4097F

Bodge99

 

[SO19Firearms]

Go for about 6hrs of light - When you say you tried less and it made no difference do you mean the algae didnt all die or that you got rid of it all, then changed the lighting and it happened again...?

An option I didnt see mentioned was to start adding CO2 to justify the lighting....but that would be more money

I did less hours of light, did my best to clean off algae from the plants and it made no difference to the amount of algae. Nothing died off and the algae on the plants returned to how they were when the light was on longer.

I have currently "downgraded" the number of plants in my tank... don't know if this will make a difference. I was about medium planted but decided to rescape (this week actually) and have a lot less plants. So you suppose this will make a difference to the CO2 in my tank (without having the CO2 contraption)?

It's a bit difficult to make choices if you've made changes to your tank....things may now be sorted, we wouldn't know!

Moving forward you can use this algae guide to identify your algae and work from there - as you dont inject CO2 you can interchange that with light (not enough CO2 = too much light etc)....

See how you get on, but rule 1 is never stop feeding your plants...... rule 2 is usually lower light/increase CO2 in some way...flow etc


IMO

 

[PrairieSunflower]

As far as I got with the link at the moment. It looks like the diatoms/brown algae, but my tank isn't newly cycled and I am not having any ammonia problems nor have I for quite some time (as in months). Funny how it says an otto would eat it. I considered getting one but was told by the LFS that our area's water is not good for them and even they have trouble keeping them alive.

Will look at the rest of the link now...

 

[bodge99]

Hello,

Are your tube clips something like this?

http/www.ebay.co.uk/itm/10x-T8-Fluorescent-Tube-Holders-1-Terry-Clips-25mm-Clip-on-Tools-Other-Uses-/360545680051?pt=UK_Light_Fittings&hash=item53f2327ab3

Sometimes these are bolted on.. Still leaves the problem of making new holes though...

Have you got any friendly neighbours or family who could lend you an electric drill and a few drill bits? or even do this for you?
If the clips are pop (pot) rivetted on then you could drill the rivet heads off...

Mark a line between the old holes with a pencil (or on sticky paper tape etc.) to give a centre line.

With the caps fitted to your new, shorter tube now mark the positions on the centre line where you want the clips to be located.

Centre punch (you could even use a nail if this is not available) a "dint" to help when drilling. Wear eye protection for this!

Use the correct drill size for your fixing method...

Use two small nuts and bolts, or re-rivet (if you have access to these).

Drill 2 new holes (a block of wood held behind where you are drilling can stop any distortion of the metal.

You appear to have have a T8 (1", [26mm] diameter) tube?

Could you confirm this as a T5 tube is 5/8" [16mm] and we'll see what your options are from there.

Apologies, I'm not trying to insult anyone with this.. just trying to help.

Bodge99.