Stocking 240l Roma fluval

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InspiredDad

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We just added another purchase to the mass of tanks (well 3 but we started a month ago so growing fast) is due to arrive tomorrow. We aren't stocking yet so don't panic just wanting advice on our options so we can bioscape the tank properly from the start.

We have soft water in my area pH in the region of 7.5. We don't want a heavily planted tank something with rocks would be ideal - small touches of plant life is fine just no jungles lol

My son wants larger fish (it's a 4ft tank) ideally colourful and if possible a shark (a singular red tail would be suitable I think - let me know)
 
rainbowfish are large and colorful but you don't meet the ph and kh/gh requirements here. and they need a heavily planted tank.
I don't know anything about sharks as im more of a dutch style aquarist (new word huh) which requires fish that are small and can school a bunch, and some others but not sharks lol
With sharks though I did do some research and found this :

Red Tail Sharks and Black Tail Sharks
The Red Tail and Black Sharks are two variations of the Labeo subspecies of Cyprinids. They tend to be aggressive toward other sharks, or shark-like fishes and should be kept in a tank without any other fishes of this type. Suggested tank size is 40 to 55 gallons or larger. In a much larger aquarium (90 gallons or more), it is possible to keep more than one of these sharks, as they will claim different territories. Red Tail and Black Sharks like to stay hidden in caves or beneath thick vegetation near the bottom of the tank. As bottom dwellers they spend their time foraging the bottom and scavenging for food.

The Red Tail Shark is one of the most common freshwater aquarium sharks; it is widely available and offered with some distinctive variations. The most common variant is in tail color, which can range from a vivid red to almost pure orange. The male of the species will show the same color in its dorsal and pectoral fins while the female will have color only on the caudal fin. The rest of the shark is a velvety black color. The Black shark is completely black and velvety. Albino versions of these sharks are rare but do exist and follow the same care needs as fish of the standard coloration.

These sharks can attain sizes as long as six inches and live for eight to ten years in optimal conditions. They can survive in most home aquariums but prefer ones with a pH between 6.8 and 7.6, so they are not often kept in Cichlid tanks. Temperatures should be kept in the 72°F to 79°F range but the sharks have been known to survive in a range from 66°F to 87°F.


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Rainbow sharks are widely available in both regular and albino varieties.
Rainbow Sharks
The Rainbow Shark is also a very popular freshwater aquarium shark. Although similar to the male Red Tail Shark in appearance, the Rainbow Shark has a longer more cylindrical body often with a dark-green tint to it. The body color can also vary from an almost silver to a deep green-black. All of the fins on the Rainbow Shark are red or orange with variations similar to those in the Red Tail sub species. There is a very common albino of this species that has the same needs as the standard variety.

The rainbow shark grows to about seven inches in an aquarium setting and prefers a tank of at least 29 gallons. It is extremely aggressive toward other similar sharks (bala shark, red-tailed shark and black shark) and should not be kept with them. Rainbow sharks are omnivorous bottom feeders that prefer vegetable matter to live foods, although they will eat tubifex worms and bloodworms readily. They are voracious algae eaters and will help keep tanks clear of algae on all surfaces.

They like tanks with several plants and caves to scurry around. The best temperature for Rainbow Sharks is in the 72°F to 79°F range but the sharks have been known to survive in a range from 66°F to 87°F. In respect to the pH level, the rainbow shark is a bit more tolerant of lower pH than the red tail shark thriving from 6.5 to 7.0 but happy anywhere from 6.0 to 8.0.

These sharks can attain sizes as long as six inches and live for eight to ten years in optimal conditions. They can survive in most home aquariums but prefer ones with a pH between 6.8 and 7.6, so they are not often kept in Cichlid tanks. Temperatures should be kept in the 72°F to 79°F range but the sharks have been known to survive in a range from 66°F to 87°F.


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Bala sharks can quickly outgrow most home aquariums and are better suited for ponds.
Bala Sharks
The Bala shark is a torpedo shaped silverfish with striking black edges to its caudal, dorsal, anal and pelvic fins. It grows to approximately one foot long in a home aquarium (16 inches in optimum conditions), so keeping it in at least a 55 gallon tank is a must. The Bala shark is a very sociable fish and prefers to live in a shoal, although that would require a much larger tank, upwards of 200 gallons.

As a mid-level swimmer, this freshwater aquarium shark will dart between plants and rocks, but prefers to swim in the open water. The fish is omnivorous feeding on plankton and insect larvae in the wild, but easily transitions to flake food.

This is a highly active fish and has a tendency to jump out of even a very small opening in a tank. If you plan to keep this type of shark you will want a tight sealing top as the home fix of saran wrap over the openings isn’t strong enough to keep this fish in. Bala sharks like temperatures 72ºF to 84ºF and a pH between 5.8 and 7.8.


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A Flying Fox and Siamensis look very similar but only one will eat black algae.
Flying Fox and Siamese Algae Eater (AKA The Golden Shark)
The Flying Fox and Siamese Algae Eater are essentially algae eating fish. They grow to about six inches and prefer to be kept in groups of three or more. As far as freshwater aquarium sharks go, these are by far the friendliest.

The Siamese Algae eater is a golden colored, cigar shaped, sucker mouthed fish with a broad black stripe running horizontally down the length of its body. The Flying Fox, its near cousin, has developed a much more striking appearance with a dark orange or red stripe on the top of its golden body. The Flying Fox also has the same black stripe as its cousin but sports red fins and tail as well. Both of these fish are avid algae eaters and will keep a tank clear of even brown and black algae that other fish won’t touch.

A well planted 55 gallon tank is recommended for a shoal of three to five of these fish, although they can do just fine on their own. They will grow territorial with age, especially if a lone fish, and may begin to take only flake food if there is an overabundance in the tank.

A temperature range of 72°F to 79°F and pH of 6.5 to 8.0 make the best water conditions for this river fish. The natural habitat is a fast flowing river, so there will be times when the Flying Fox or Siamese Algae Eater will look like it is playing swimming against the stream of an over the back filter system. Also these fish have been known to jump and should be kept in a tightly lidded aquarium.


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Apollo sharks are not commonly available in fish stores but are a great addition if you can find one.
Silver Apollo Sharks
The Silver Apollo Shark is a schooling fish that is more passive than both the Red Tail Shark and Bala Shark. It likes slightly acidic water, pH between 6.0 and 6.5 and a standard 66°F to 79°F temperature range. This is a jumping fish. Keep it in a tank with a lid at all times. The Silver Apollo shark is much more apt to jump out of a tank within the first couple of days or longer. It will eventually settle in and display a much less erratic swimming pattern, although from time to time it may swim full speed into the side of the tank if spooked.

This shark will grow to about ten inches long in an aquarium setting. Due to its relatively small size and peaceful nature, the Apollo Shark is perfect for 29 gallon and larger community tanks. Like most other river fish Apollo Sharks are not tolerant of ammonia or nitrite, and will usually be the first fish in a tank to suffer ill effects due to elevated levels. Strong filtration is advised as well as weekly 25% water changes. They also like a slightly higher temperature, 75°F - 81°F, with a pH between 6.0 and 7.5.

This is one of the few freshwater aquarium sharks that can be considered a surface dweller. It is an ultra fast eating machine that isn’t particular about what it eats, so it could possibly keep less agile fish from getting a meal. These fish will benefit greatly from a snack of bloodworms or other live food.


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Hi Fin sharks are gorgeous specimen fish and can become the highlight of a freshwater tank. | Source
Chinese Hi Fin Shark
The Chinese Hi Fin Shark is a very large freshwater aquarium shark that is suited more for use in a pond environment than a standard tank. This fish routinely reaches three feet or more, so keeping them in even a 150 gallon tank isn’t really feasible. The young and adolescent fish have light brown bodies with dark bands running vertically down the entirety of the fish. Adult males turn a deep red color with the bands, while females become more of a purple hue. The most striking characteristic of the Chinese Hi Fin Shark is the triangular dorsal fin that reaches back to the anal fin, and can double the height of the body when fully erect.

Chinese Hi Fin Sharks are a relatively coldwater species liking temperatures below 70 °F but above 55 °F and a pH between 6.0 and 7.5. They are slow growers and have been known to live in captivity up to 25 years. An omnivore by nature, this fish spends almost its entire life scavenging for food. It will take almost all dried foods, live bloodworms, tubifex worms, and even seaweed flakes.
 
Looking at the list confirms the best option would be a singular red tailed shark. Trying to find tankmates is hard - I was looking at butterfly fish and rainbow fish as they appear similar to his koi, not sure on the bio requirements though using my phone to research is a nightmare
 
Looking at the list confirms the best option would be a singular red tailed shark. Trying to find tankmates is hard - I was looking at butterfly fish and rainbow fish as they appear similar to his koi, not sure on the bio requirements though using my phone to research is a nightmare

While you have space for a sole Red Tail Shark, this is probably not a good idea. This fish will severely limit other choices for tankmates; no other substrate fish which rules out loaches, corys, loricariids. This means a rather "empty" space, which is something many (including I suspect your son) would find boring in time. Upper fish also have to be carefully chosen, due to the temperament of the RTS.

Rainbow fish were mentioned b y another member, as requiring moderately hard water, and that is true for many of them. As for the butterfly, do you mean Pantodon buchholzi? This is an interesting fish, best kept in a pair (male/female are relatively easy to differentiate when together in the store tank), but also extremely inactive. It is an ambush predator, lying among floating vegetation until something possibly edible appears. It will easily eat small fish that venture near the surface--like when they feed. I had a pair for many years, but on their own.

Given the tank size and your earlier idea of less plants and more rock...you could do a nice Asian (India subcontinent) aquascape with sand or fine gravel, rounded river rock representing boulders of varying sizes, and a few chunks of wood. This would suit some of the smaller loaches. Upper fish could be medium sized rasbora, danio or barbs. My 4-foot 90g started out this way, although the few plants I stuck in at the beginning have exploded, but you may get the basic idea. Rounded river rock is piled up at the back (not visible unfortunately) and a few clusters along the front to balance the wood. Couple of photos attached, of this tank one year apart (2015 and 2016).
 

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Been speaking with my son explaining sharks essentially restrict him heavily. We were looking at gourami and angel fish (pair).

Would a setup of say 2 angel fish, 4 gourami leave room for others and if so which.

When I was looking via google it says they can both be found in South Asia and a compatibility shark said they were fine so could do similar to you tank with plants at the back and rocks upfront.
 
I don't know where you got that information from, but angelfish are from the northern half of south America not Asia. But I don't know if gouramis and angelfish would get on in the same tank.


I would love a group of pearl (lace) gouramis in a tank that size :)
 
Funnily enough it was pearl gourami we were looking at about 4. Struggling finding suitable tank mates and how much per tank is confusing the 1inch per gallon (initially told per litre) doesn't apply in reality so it's more based on experience which I lack

Compatibility chart im using http://m.liveaquaria.com/PIC/article.cfm?aid=21
 
The chart does have some anomalies. It says gouramis should be mixed with caution with new world cichlids but are compatible with angelfish. However, angels ARE new world cichlids :confused:
 
This is confusing me lol so much information from so many sources and it all conflicts. Glad I decided to confirm things by the forum.

So we're looking at 4xpearl gouramis and still to figure suitable tank mates
 
Follow up, rasbora according to Wikipedia are from Thailand so similar environment and they are smaller fish that group so could give a big variance in the tank having 4 pearl gourami as the focus point with the rasbora shoal providing the contrast.

Both benefit from plants but also open space. If we went for just 2 breeds in the tank with 4 pearl gouramis how many rasbora would make a good sized compliment? I read 6 or more is the ideal group size
 
Several posts with differing issues have appeared while I was asleep (we're in different time zones on this forum :confused:) so to answer the questions as best as I can I'll go in order of posts recognizing that earlier ideas have changed.

Angelfish. This is a shoaling fish, living in smallish groups (smallish meaning a dozen or two, as compared to many hundreds in the natural shoals of tetras, rasboras, coryies, etc.). In an aquarium, a group of minimum five is recommended, in at least a 4-foot tank, but one of more volume than the 240 liter (roughly 60 gallons). Aside from this, they can be kept as a male/female pair but only if they have bonded. Cichlids are fish that prefer to select their mates and if they do not accept one another and are within the confines of an aquarium the weaker is usually dead before long. The problem with a group of five is that there is likely going to be males and females, and a pair may well form--which can make life for the others intolerable, again in the confined space. These are things that would never occur in the wild because the hounded fish simply move away and the aggression of the dominant is rarely (if ever) such that they kill the submissive fish in the habitat. Things are often very different when we place fish in the very artificial confines of an aquarium.

Second point, angelfish and gourami are not a good mix. These two groups are very similar in many ways, especially the territorial nature of males but females can also exhibit this. Either cichlids or gourami, not both.

To the gourami. Levels of aggressive behaviour varies with the species. As Pearls were mentioned, I will confine my comments to this species, Trichopodus leerii. This is indeed a beauty among gourami, and many other fish too. And it is one of the more docile species, though males are territorial. In the given tank, a group of five (no fewer) to seven should work, but in a ratio of more females to males. Two males and three females for five, or three males and four females. Individual fish may not adhere to the norm, of course, but in the right setting this should work.

Gourami occur in very quiet waters, like ponds, swamps, ditches, small streams. The subject species is native to Thailand, Malaysia, and Indonesia (the islands of Borneo and Sumatra), inhabiting swamps in the lowlands and quiet streams thick with aquatic vegetation including floating plants. A planted tank, and definitely one with thick floating plants, is important. The lower plants could be less than what one would consider average planting, provided there is wood branches to break up the space, and obviously good floating plants. Swimming space need not be vast as gourami do not actively swim, but cruise--much as angelfish and discus for that matter, and all of these fish live around sunken branches, plants, whichever.

To their tankmates...rasbora are ideal. With very few exceptions, these are also less active fish, and that is what you want with larger sedate fish. Barbs for example would tear around the tank like out of control children, and this unsettles the sedate gouramis. In a 240 liter 4-foot, the group of 5-7 gourami and a group of 12-15 rasbora of the small/medium species like the Harlequin (Trigonostigma heteromorpha) would be lovely. I personally prefer the two closely-related species, Trigonostigma espei or T. hengeli, especially the latter with its brilliant copper "axe". These go very well with nearly any gourmai (the peaceful ones). I have had these in tanks with Chocolate, Licorice, and Pygmy Sparkling gourami.

We've omitted the substrate level, and there are options, but I'll leave this as it is another topic and I do want to end with a comment on the variable information sources.

The other day I posted a link to an article that details what we have to consider when considering species for community tanks. Here is the thread:
http://www.fishforums.net/threads/compatibility-described.443226/unread

That article explains why automatic calculators are fraught with problems. This is something that still takes human thinking to sort out. As for the conflicting information...anyone with the will can set up a web site and promote themselves as "experts." There are reliable sites for information; I always consider the source (the individuals) and the consensus. Knowledgeable ichthyologists will very rarely differ when it comes to what we have been discussing here.

Byron.
 
I don't know how u guys can keep all this information in ur head but I guess is such with years of experience - one factor I read was that female gouramis are fine together, so avoiding any potential conflict/breeding a full group of female pearl gouramies would be viable - can you confirm this?

Again thanks for the continued support I've been looking into where I can acquire suitable plants etc
 
I don't know how u guys can keep all this information in ur head but I guess is such with years of experience - one factor I read was that female gouramis are fine together, so avoiding any potential conflict/breeding a full group of female pearl gouramies would be viable - can you confirm this?

Again thanks for the continued support I've been looking into where I can acquire suitable plants etc

With this gourami species, females would be fairly peaceful. That is not the case with some species, just so you know. But this means you have a tank missing the incredible glory of the male, and with a species that is as peaceful (for gourami) as this one, that would be a shame. See the attached photos, two of a male and one a pair. You really do not want to miss this. The other thing is the interaction with male/female present. You will see natural behaviours, and they will in all likelihood spawn, and that is another benefit not to be missed. One of the true joys of this hobby is having a bit of nature in one's home; fish allow us to have this, unlike most other wild creatures.
 

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I just wanted to post up a huge thank you were settled on the pearl gourami and rasbora - tank arrives Friday so time for us to look into the environment suitable rock/plant/wood supplier and the right types the soil/gravel is now a priority and knowing the fish should make that easier.

In the aim of regenerating the environment im thinking ecocomplete (red), a scatter of small rocks with one/two large, then the back planted opposite the big rocks more heavily planted.
 

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