Solanoid, Check Valve - Confusion!

The August FOTM Contest Poll is open!
FishForums.net Fish of the Month
🏆 Click to vote! 🏆

jonnyf84

Fish Herder
Joined
Mar 18, 2008
Messages
1,119
Reaction score
1
ok, now i'm looking at this [URL="http://www.thelivingseas.uk.com/p/526316/d...fessional-.html"]http://www.thelivingseas.uk.com/p/526316/d...fessional-.html[/URL] . Is this a decent system?

a check valve allows a one way flow yes? So what the hell is a solenoid is it the same thing, can i turn the co2 off at night without a solenoid? Is it vital to turn CO2 off at night?


Sorry for all the questions lately i'm just struggling to get my head around the whole CO2 thing, any help is much appreciated.

Jonny.
 
Your link doesn't work

If using a pressurised setup then the user normally decides to use a solenoid valve which plugs into a timer and when it is switched on allows the CO2 through and when not then it stops the flow.

A check valve will never stop the flow in one direction but will stop anything passing in the reverse direction. therefore if it is inline the correct direction it will let CO2 through to the diffuser but not let anything including liquids to come back down the line. It in effect stops the syphoning effect that can happen.

AC
 
You can run a C02 system 24/7, but bare in mind that plants do not photosynthesis during the night so have no need for it. Instead they respire, taking in oxygen from the surroundings.
If your running your Co2 24/7 it will run out in half the time unneccacarily.
A solenoid valve shuts the supply off when a current stops flowing through it, the idea being you plug it into a timer but you can manually control your Co2 rate manually without the use of the the solenoid.
Dan
 
If your running your Co2 24/7 it will run out in half the time unneccacarily.

This isn't true. Running 24/7 means you run at a much much lower rate and therefore can last just as long. When running via solenoid you have the need to blast the CO2 in to get it up to ppm whereas with the 24/7 method it is already at a certain level constantly. Mine never ran out any quicker when I ran 24/7

Some plants 'seem' to prefer 24/7 CO2.

I have run solenoid then 24/7 then solenoid again(as now) but it is more dependent on what is happening within my tank and the current inhabitants needs for me. If you have sensitive fish then solenoid is probably the way to go but then some fish require such low Ph that it makes sense to run 24/7 to keep the Ph down!!

AC
 
thanks fellas. So what the hell is a check valve used for? I have a KH of 0.5 so a low PH isn't a problem, lol. Ideally it needs to be at 7.5 for my nezzies so i will need to add bicarb anyway. AC, when you ran yours 24/7 did it stay at 30ppm day and night or because you ran it 24/7 did you keep the level lower, say 20ppm?

I guess if i'm adding bicarb then it might be better to run 24/7 co2 so then i don't get PH fluctuations and then it should be easier to judge how much bicarb i need to keep the PH at a certain level - what you you guys think?

Also which of these systems would you recommend:

Hydor Advanced (£80) - http://www.thelivingseas.uk.com/p/484871/h...co2-bottle.html
Deltec CO2 set (£90) - http://www.everythingbutwater.co.uk/deltec...ical-4201-p.asp
or
Dennerle CO2 Classic-Line - Professional (£125) - http://www.thelivingseas.uk.com/p/526316/d...fessional-.html

the deltec system is the only one that comes with a solenoid but seems to be the least well known system and doesn't come with a diffuser.
 
The check valve stops the risk of water syphoning back down the tube into the reg.

What on earth are nezzies? and why do they HAVE to be kept at 7.5? I take no notice of the Ph when I buy fish. Most fish in freshwater tanks (baring a few delicate species) will live in any reasonable 6 - 8 Ph quite happily.

I ran it at a level that meant at lights on it was green to light green which of course at the end of the photoperiod it was nearing blue

It wouldn't have been a certain ppm all through the day. The CO2 builds up through the night so that at lights on it is enough for the plants. The plants use it faster than it is being injected during the day and a lot is depleted by the end of the lights. At this point the lack of light means the CO2 starts to build again. This method can be dangerous for some of course.

Not the best person to ask on CO2 kits as I just use welding parts and supplies. I would steer clear of the hydor though. Never had a good rep with CO2 equipment.

AC
 
What do you mean the 24/7 method can be dangerous for some? do you mean fish or plants, and in what way is it dangerous?

I just read your ''under the forest canopy', that really sucks, has he stopped destroying things yet? lol. I know i shouldn't have but i had to laugh at the bubble bath tank pic - kids just do the wierdest things with no appreciation of consequences.

nezzies - Xiphophorus Nezahualcoyotl, a rare swordtail:
Xiphophorus_nezahualcoyotl.jpg

They aren't particularly sensitive to a stable PH, anywhere between 6 and 8 (7.5 been the only PH they have bred-strange aye) is fine but they dont take too kindly to fluctuations.

How many bubbles per second did you have when you ran CO2 24/7?

Yeah i have heard a few people say to give the hydor a miss, is a check valve a neccesity?

Also have you ever heard of a Flipper CO2 diffuser? If so are they any good?
EDIT: ah its a ladder style diffuser, i have heard ceramic diffusers are much better...

Thanks,
Jonny.
 

Most reactions

Back
Top