Sand Gravel -

April FOTM Photo Contest Starts Now!
FishForums.net Fish of the Month
🏆 Click to enter! 🏆

paulbr1

Fish Crazy
Joined
Jan 27, 2009
Messages
260
Reaction score
0
Location
South Yorkshire
Hi, I am Cycling at the moment and have a gravel/small pebble sub. since setting up I have spotted several nice looking sand based tanks and really like them.

I would like to peoples opinions - pro's con's etc on either,

Also can I add sand to an already laid pebble bed, is it worth it?

Thanks in advance,

Paul.
 
Well I have 6X circultation but I was thinking of planting quite heavily which I am sure will add to the waste issue, I dont mind cleaning but I could only do it twice a week.

Cheers.
 
Plantings will cause eddies of current in the tank where things can settle out. It is one of the reasons that plant people tend to go to extremes in flow for their tanks. They are trying to overcome the natural flow reductions that come with the plants being present. You will find varying opinions on how much flow is enough. IMO a simple 3x is enough even for a planted tank but others will give you numbers from 10x or even higher. It is really up to you whether you are willing to clean the surface of the substrate or you think the flow needs to be high enough that nothing can ever settle.
 
Cheers, the tank is 260L and it came with a 1000Lph PH which I upgraded to a 1500Lph so I have around 6X, Don't mind cleaning though so I am around midway between suggestions.

I am a little confused on the feeding of plants with CO2 and food though, I have checked my lighting and have 2x 54W with the reflectors, so I am thinking that should be enough light in there for the synth.

Any recomendations on food/CO2?
 
I'd never argue with oldman47, he's always been spot for me, but i've read on the forum that 5x is the best way to go, someone will correct me if i'm wrong.
 
i have sand and glavel in my tank sand at 1 end and gravel at the other and difrent fish seem to like diffrent parts of the tank
 
Turn over is basically a recommendation that is very subjective. If x 3 gets all the nutrients to the four corners, then all is well and fine. However, as plants grow, the flow can change around the tank. I have a 240l tank that requires a theoretical x 22.5 turn over due to the heavy planting and hardscape restricting movement in certain areas.

To be honest, fishless cycling and planted tanks just don’t go together I`m afraid. Once you make the link light + ammonia = algae, you will see why. Tanks should be cycled with no light IMO.

If it is a planted tank you want, do yourself a favour and bypass the fishless cycle. Get the CO2 non limiting and stable, and then look at either EI dosing or TPN+. There are stickies in the planted forum that explain plant nutrients and the Estimative Index.

With sufficient plant growth, you will find that any ammonia is efficiently removed by the plant mass. Spend a few days getting the plants showing signs of healthy growth, and you are on your way. Running excessive CO2 at the start really helps to kick start the growth. Hopefully, if done correctly, you will slowly develop a bacteria colony, but you will have been able to add fish long before this (remember to bring the CO2 back down to 30ppm).

The initial stages of setting up a planted tank are about getting healthy plant growth at the expense of algae, not growing a huge bacteria colony with 5ppm ammonia that will reduce in numbers when in competition with the plants, and an algae bloom because the lights are on for the plants.

IMO, a fishless cycle should mean no light and no plants!!!!!!

Dave.
 
Dave, I run tanks both ways. I have heavily planted tanks with CO2 and PPO plus ferts, a lighter planted Walstad type tank and several conventional tanks with few plants and a good bacteria colony. All of the tanks are successful for the simple reason that each is managed as its design dictates. I do not maintain my Walstad and my conventional tank in the same manner because each is built around a different way of doing things. Actually a heavy planting is just what the doctor ordered for a Walstad El Natural. You use a fertile substrate, no filter but heavy circulation, heavy plantings of fast growing plants, fish food as plant fertilizer and always have a cover of floating plant material on the surface to soak up nutrients. I can hardly think of a quicker way for a newbie to get in trouble than to try that but it works if you can juggle the variables. In this context a heavy planting means it is hard to see the back of the tank through the plants.
 

Most reactions

trending

Staff online

Members online

Back
Top