Please Help Me Major Emergency!

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This is likely the major source of your dying livebearers when the neons managed to survive the toxic additive.

Livebearers (guppies, swordtails, platies, mollies, Endlers) must have moderately hard or harder water. When kept in water that is below their minimum level of dissolved mineral, which is the GH, they are unable to assimilate sufficient minerals (primarily calcium and magnesium) from the water they take in through every cell; this mineral is essential in allowing their physiology to function properly.

If the GH is at the absolute highest end of the 100-200 ppm range you give, this is just minimum. If the GH is lower, which given the pH issue (lowering pH) is much more likely to be the case, these fish cannot be healthy. They will be slowly weakened, and that means when something like this toxic algae substance is dumped into the tank they cannot cope. The neons by contrast are softer water fish, so they are in a better overall state to deal with the problem, though in time they too may succumb
Typically my gh is higher; around 140-200ppm. At the moment my ph is 7.2. My livebearers have always appeared healthy under the right water conditions although I do have to alter my water a little bit because my source water is on the soft side.
 
I recommend if you are using a cartridge filter that you change it for a sponge filter cut to fit the filter housing. Then once every two weeks squeeze out the sponge in tank water. That way you won’t lose beneficial bacteria.
 
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First of all you post "Major Emergency"

I'm sure you are happily sleeping away by now and your fish are all dead and fry are all eaten, but I sincerely don't understand your constant wringing of your hands "what to do" , "what to do" and you are told what to do (water change) repeatedly and you reply "I'm too tired" then go back to "oh what to do?" Do you want somebody to go over to your house and do it for you?

Do the GD water change. Geez.
@Jan Cavalieri all of my fish are not dead and not one of my fry are eaten. I DID do two water changes; I was just concerned about the lack of improvement with my livebearers.
 
I recommend if you are using a cartridge filter that change it for a sponge filter cut to fit the filter housing. Then once every two weeks squeeze out the sponge in tank water. That way you won’t lose beneficial bacteria.
What is the difference between a sponge filter and a cartridge filter?
 
A sponge put in your filter housing is much easier to just clean and reuse as opposed to a cartridge that won't last nearly as long. When you replace your cartridge you lose all you beneficial bacteria which can lead to causing an ammonia spike and potentially causing issues with your fish. Don't use a kitchen sponge..you must use a foam sponge made for filters.
 
What is the difference between a sponge filter and a cartridge filter?
One is a sponge and one is a filter pad or cartridge.

Sponges last 10+ years and get squeezed out in a bucket of tank water.

Filter pads/ cartridges are usually made from a white acrylic material and it breaks down pretty quickly.

You can use sponges in any sort of filter, but cartridges are usually designed for a specific brand of filter. Some manufacturers have cartridges and suggest you replace them every couple of weeks but this stuffs up the filter cycle and remove the beneficial filter bacteria when you throw the old cartridge away.
 
Typically my gh is higher; around 140-200ppm. At the moment my ph is 7.2. My livebearers have always appeared healthy under the right water conditions although I do have to alter my water a little bit because my source water is on the soft side.

Two issues in this post. First, your GH even at 200 ppm is still not really sufficient, this is minimum for some livebearers. So assuming the GH is lower (a range of 140-200 ppm is not really accurate, it cannot be fluctuating like this unless you are targeting it somehow) the livebearers will be stressed continually, fighting harder just to maintain their normal day-to-day functions. That weakens them so when something comes along that really impacts them, the effect is far worse than it would be if the parameters were what they need to function normally. I hope that makes sense.

Second, what exactly are you doing to "alter my water a little bit because my source water is on the soft side"? This may have been even more directly involved in their deaths.
 
Second, what exactly are you doing to "alter my water a little bit because my source water is on the soft side"? This may have been even more directly involved in their deaths.
I am adding Seachem Alkaline Buffer to raise the ph, gh, and kh. (And once in a while, baking soda). But as I mentioned before, my livebearers were super healthy and active. They didn't appear to have anything wrong with them unless ph, gh, and kh affects them internally and is not noticeable in behavior.
What gh level am I looking for?
 
Guppies, platies and swordtails need a GH of 200ppm. Mollies need a GH of 250ppm.
 
I am adding Seachem Alkaline Buffer to raise the ph, gh, and kh. (And once in a while, baking soda). But as I mentioned before, my livebearers were super healthy and active. They didn't appear to have anything wrong with them unless ph, gh, and kh affects them internally and is not noticeable in behavior.
What gh level am I looking for?

To your last question, Colin responded. I will just add that these are the minimum levels, and higher is better. The reason is how this affects these fish, which goes to your comment in the preceding paragraph of this post.

Unlike marine (sea) water which is basically the same across the globe in terms of GH, KH and pH, freshwater is uniquely different. Water is the most solvent liquid on this planet, which means that it will easily and readily assimilate substances it comes into contact with, such as organics, minerals in rock, toxins, etc. As condensed pure water falls as rain or snow, it begins to do this, and especially when it reaches the ground. Thus, freshwater is unique according to the geographical area, because of the substances it has taken up.

Freshwater fish have evolved over thousands of years to function in very specific water parameters. Fish such as livebearers have evolved in water that is moderately hard with a basic (above 7.0) pH. Their physiology is geared to this water, and they depend upon the dissolved minerals (primarily calcium and magnesium) to properly function. Fish continually take in water through every cell and at the gills; every substance dissolved in that water is transported into the fish, into the bloodstream and thus to the internal organs. They need the calcium and magnesium which they assimilate out of that water, expelling the waste as urine. When the water they are in does not have sufficient minerals, their physiology must work harder to deal with this, and this can only last so long. There are usually no external signs whatsoever, until the fish will be seen to be lethargic and then dies.

Along the way, this extra "work" caused by the lack of minerals is weaken the fish more and more, making it susceptible to other problems, health issues, etc. It will no longer have the ability to fight off issues that it would ordinarily manage.

With that understanding, you have two options. Stay with your source water and select soft water fish species, or adjust the source water for livebearers. The former is easier and safer because you can use your tap water as it is, which makes water changes much easier. Preparing water means doing this outside the aquarium, and then adding the adjusted water at water changes. That is more work, and it can make emergency water changes (they will occur) very difficult. The water entering the tank must be stable and suitable to the fish.
 
I think I am going to choose the harder way as I love livebearers lol. Thank you for explaining that to me.
 
I think I am going to choose the harder way as I love livebearers lol. Thank you for explaining that to me.

That's fine. But recognize the various apsects. Adding the wrong substances is not the best way to do this if you value the fish's well-being. A calcareous substrate is easiest and permanent. If additives are used, they must be the right ones. There are mineral salts available for rift lake cichlids and this is what you need. These "salts" are the salts of minerals needed by these fish, but do not contain common "salt" (sodium chloride) just to make that clear. I used the calcareous substrate method years ago for my livebearers and rift lake cichlids, when I had very soft source water.

Second point is you shouldnot have the soft water species in the tank if you go down this road. That is not kind to the fish. So the neons go into another tank with no hardened water.
 
That's fine. But recognize the various apsects. Adding the wrong substances is not the best way to do this if you value the fish's well-being. A calcareous substrate is easiest and permanent. If additives are used, they must be the right ones. There are mineral salts available for rift lake cichlids and this is what you need. These "salts" are the salts of minerals needed by these fish, but do not contain common "salt" (sodium chloride) just to make that clear. I used the calcareous substrate method years ago for my livebearers and rift lake cichlids, when I had very soft source water.

Second point is you shouldnot have the soft water species in the tank if you go down this road. That is not kind to the fish. So the neons go into another tank with no hardened water.

So, my neons have been completely fine even though my water is not soft. I have had most of them for about a year. I feel like I have found the fine line to keeping both kinds of fish in the same tank. But maybe you disagree; I just feel like they are all doing really well (besides the poisoning).
 
So, my neons have been completely fine even though my water is not soft. I have had most of them for about a year. I feel like I have found the fine line to keeping both kinds of fish in the same tank. But maybe you disagree; I just feel like they are all doing really well (besides the poisoning).

First, none of us can really know our fish are "completely fine" just because they survive. But regardless of that, your water is on the soft side (according to previous post data) so they should be fine anyway. Not so with the livebearers who are definitely having issues just functioning because of the water GH.

You cannot keep both kinds of fish in the same tank (water). The fish are designed differently and unless you provide each species with what it requires to function normally--and this cannot be done in the same tank with such diverse fish requirements as here--you are not doing your fish any favours.

You have the two options and must decide.
 
First, none of us can really know our fish are "completely fine" just because they survive. But regardless of that, your water is on the soft side (according to previous post data) so they should be fine anyway. Not so with the livebearers who are definitely having issues just functioning because of the water GH.

You cannot keep both kinds of fish in the same tank (water). The fish are designed differently and unless you provide each species with what it requires to function normally--and this cannot be done in the same tank with such diverse fish requirements as here--you are not doing your fish any favours.

You have the two options and must decide.
????????Hard choices. You've given me some food for thought. I'm going to think about it and thanks for all of the info.
 

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