Ph & Alkalinity/buffer Question

[FishLover66]

Hi all. I got a new master strip test kit from Centry AQ Mardel so I can more easily test my aquarium water daily while it goes through another nitrogen cycle (it looked good before I did a 30% water change on Friday and I tested it again today and ammonia is at 0.25 from 0.00 and Nitrates are now testing at 0.0, when they were testing at 5.0). I added Cycle to the water and filter so hopefully that will speed things along, as it did when I first set up my aquarium.

Anyway, the other reason I wanted to purchase this test kit was because it included Alkalinity and hardness, which I don't have in my API Master Test kit. From info I read in the test kit pamphlet, Alkalinity needs to be at least 120 ppm for an accurate pH reading. The tap and aquarium water is testing at less than 80 ppm. My pH has been testing at 6.8....tap is 6.4.

I've learned NOT to adjust the pH (thanks to these boards), but it appears that I need to add a buffer. If so, can anyone recommend a high quality one to me?

My next question, of course, will be how will this buffer affect my pH. I know it will keep it from fluctuating, but since I'm apparently not getting a 'true' reading with such a low Alkalinity reading, what are the chances it will still be within a decent range after I add a buffer? Presently, I have six neons and 3 hatches and plan on getting other fish that like pH between 6.8 and 7.0.

Also hardness tested at 120 ppm, while good for a community set up, which is what I want, is it bad for SA dwarf cichlids? I'm debating between an angel and a ram pair or something similar.

Thanks!!

 

[Steve H.]

What do you mean by "another" cycle? Did something happen?
The liquid kit is the way to go for accuracy.
Your strip results appear as if you just started a fish-in cycle. Although, nitrates might not bee showing on a strip because you just did w/c. Regardless...the ammonia is no good.

As far as a buffer for your water. I would ask your lfs what the water parameters are in the tanks from where your fish came from. You might not have to mess with it at all if the store is close to where you live. Which would be for the best.
My lfs is close so our water is similar. High pH and slightly hard. My current fish are thriving in these parameters.

 

[FishLover66]

What do you mean by "another" cycle? Did something happen?
The liquid kit is the way to go for accuracy.
Your strip results appear as if you just started a fish-in cycle. Although, nitrates might not bee showing on a strip because you just did w/c. Regardless...the ammonia is no good.

As far as a buffer for your water. I would ask your lfs what the water parameters are in the tanks from where your fish came from. You might not have to mess with it at all if the store is close to where you live. Which would be for the best.
My lfs is close so our water is similar. High pH and slightly hard. My current fish are thriving in these parameters.

Well, being the newbie that I am, I panicked when a had a few fish die and my betta, which ultimately died, got Ick, so I apparently over medicated (Besides Ick meds, I put two other supposedly all natural and 'safe' meds in for bacterial and fungal infections. Between the medication, a 33% water change, and the fact that I had to place another carbon medium in my filter (it's an Aquaclear, so the original sponge and ammonia absorber is still in there, it looks as though the BB were compromised. My tank WAS cycled, but now the testing indicates that it's going through another one. Yesterday the ammonia tested at 0.50 and the Nitrates look like they are going back up. Nothing for Nitrites though, but I would get that would be showing up soon? I put more Cycle (BB suppliment in) so that should help move things along without harming the fish (6 neons and 3 hatchets).

Is there a liquid kit for Alkalinity and Hardness? I can't seem to find that and it was the only reason I bought the strips (well, that and it's a lot quickly for daily cycle checks).

I've asked a couple LFS what their pH is and one said they keep all their tanks at 7.5, which I though was high for tetras and other fish that like neutral to acidic levels. I was also told by them that I need to use a buffer to keep the pH from fluctuating. I asked another LFS and was told that they keep their tanks at 7.0 for most of their tanks with the exception of some of the cichlid tanks which would be kept higher. Sounds like both of them try to KEEP their pH at certain levels. I don't know how the second lfs keeps their pH at 7.0, didn't think to ask.

My aquarium water has been testing pretty consistently at 6.5 to 7.0, but has gone to 7.2. I have, however, had to use the High pH Test solution twice because the pH tested so high. That is what concerns me--the massive fluction (from the tap AND aquarium).

I've looked for buffers, but the only ones I can find are for marine and cichlid tanks. I would prefer neutral to slightly acid. Should I just keep testing to monitor the pH and just see what happens? I'm not planning on adding any fish anytime soon.

 

[Steve H.]

I was a lot like you 3 months ago. I'm a Noob too, and just want to do the right thing by your fish.

Ok...first thing is don't panic. You came to the right place to get help. There are a lot of great experienced keepers here who will help.

Second, you need to do a 90% water change immediately(dechlorinated the water). You need to get that ammonia toxin down. That is what is more than likely killing your fish.
You need to act on your fish-in cycle so you don't lose any more fish.

Third, don't waste any more money on cycling products. They don't work, and are not a magic bullet. Time and attention cycle a tank. That goes for buffers and pH modifiers for now. The only thing you need is a good dechlorinater.

If you do a 50% water change every day you will keep your ammonia down, and your tank will cycle.
And pretty quickly as well...maybe 4 weeks.

Fourth and final....don't worry about the pH for right now. Worry about ammonia. Although a lot of books or websites will tell you ideal pH and water hardness that your fish thrive in, the fact is that most fish can cope with the difference of pH better than ammonia. Also, many were bred in captivity which also makes them more hardy and accustomed to pH levels. That's why I asked about the tanks at your lfs.

Hopefully a more experienced member will pipe in, but thats what I aid do.

 

[Steve H.]

What do you mean by "another" cycle? Did something happen?
The liquid kit is the way to go for accuracy.
Your strip results appear as if you just started a fish-in cycle. Although, nitrates might not bee showing on a strip because you just did w/c. Regardless...the ammonia is no good.

As far as a buffer for your water. I would ask your lfs what the water parameters are in the tanks from where your fish came from. You might not have to mess with it at all if the store is close to where you live. Which would be for the best.
My lfs is close so our water is similar. High pH and slightly hard. My current fish are thriving in these parameters.

Well, being the newbie that I am, I panicked when a had a few fish die and my betta, which ultimately died, got Ick, so I apparently over medicated (Besides Ick meds, I put two other supposedly all natural and 'safe' meds in for bacterial and fungal infections. Between the medication, a 33% water change, and the fact that I had to place another carbon medium in my filter (it's an Aquaclear, so the original sponge and ammonia absorber is still in there, it looks as though the BB were compromised. My tank WAS cycled, but now the testing indicates that it's going through another one. Yesterday the ammonia tested at 0.50 and the Nitrates look like they are going back up. Nothing for Nitrites though, but I would get that would be showing up soon? I put more Cycle (BB suppliment in) so that should help move things along without harming the fish (6 neons and 3 hatchets).

Is there a liquid kit for Alkalinity and Hardness? I can't seem to find that and it was the only reason I bought the strips (well, that and it's a lot quickly for daily cycle checks).

I've asked a couple LFS what their pH is and one said they keep all their tanks at 7.5, which I though was high for tetras and other fish that like neutral to acidic levels. I was also told by them that I need to use a buffer to keep the pH from fluctuating. I asked another LFS and was told that they keep their tanks at 7.0 for most of their tanks with the exception of some of the cichlid tanks which would be kept higher. Sounds like both of them try to KEEP their pH at certain levels. I don't know how the second lfs keeps their pH at 7.0, didn't think to ask.

My aquarium water has been testing pretty consistently at 6.5 to 7.0, but has gone to 7.2. I have, however, had to use the High pH Test solution twice because the pH tested so high. That is what concerns me--the massive fluction (from the tap AND aquarium).

I've looked for buffers, but the only ones I can find are for marine and cichlid tanks. I would prefer neutral to slightly acid. Should I just keep testing to monitor the pH and just see what happens? I'm not planning on adding any fish anytime soon.

Your pH seems to be where it needs to be for neons and hatchets anyway?

 

[FishLover66]

I was a lot like you 3 months ago. I'm a Noob too, and just want to do the right thing by your fish.

Ok...first thing is don't panic. You came to the right place to get help. There are a lot of great experienced keepers here who will help.

Second, you need to do a 90% water change immediately(dechlorinated the water). You need to get that ammonia toxin down. That is what is more than likely killing your fish.
You need to act on your fish-in cycle so you don't lose any more fish.

Third, don't waste any more money on cycling products. They don't work, and are not a magic bullet. Time and attention cycle a tank. That goes for buffers and pH modifiers for now. The only thing you need is a good dechlorinater.

If you do a 50% water change every day you will keep your ammonia down, and your tank will cycle.
And pretty quickly as well...maybe 4 weeks.

Fourth and final....don't worry about the pH for right now. Worry about ammonia. Although a lot of books or websites will tell you ideal pH and water hardness that your fish thrive in, the fact is that most fish can cope with the difference of pH better than ammonia. Also, many were bred in captivity which also makes them more hardy and accustomed to pH levels. That's why I asked about the tanks at your lfs.

Hopefully a more experienced member will pipe in, but thats what I aid do.

Thanks for the help. I agree that I will not add anything but fresh dechlorinated tap water from now on. None of the fish have died since my betta the end of last week and actually look much better lately-the water change I did seemed to help a lot. The marble hatchets, in particular, got their color back and are swimming around much more.

I'm doing daily water testing and will be doing another water change on Friday night, so I'm sure that will bring down the ammonia.

 

[Steve H.]

Nice. Good luck!

I don't want to put you off, but I urge you to do as many water changes as you can during your fish in cycle. 25% to 50% everyday if you can.
Your neons are a semi hardy little fish and have a good chance to survive the cycling process, but I am not quite sure about your marble hatchets. A nice little fish by the way, but very prone to white spot.
The best defense against disease such as that and the parasite problem you had is pristine water.
Did your med treatment take care of the ick floating around in your tank?
If you are not sure maybe seek some advice from someone who knows a little more about treating that...like I've read you can raise the temp of the water to help fight ick, but I've never had to so know nothing about it.

 

[FishLover66]

Nice. Good luck!

I don't want to put you off, but I urge you to do as many water changes as you can during your fish in cycle. 25% to 50% everyday if you can.
Your neons are a semi hardy little fish and have a good chance to survive the cycling process, but I am not quite sure about your marble hatchets. A nice little fish by the way, but very prone to white spot.
The best defense against disease such as that and the parasite problem you had is pristine water.
Did your med treatment take care of the ick floating around in your tank?
If you are not sure maybe seek some advice from someone who knows a little more about treating that...like I've read you can raise the temp of the water to help fight ick, but I've never had to so know nothing about it.

I'm pretty sure I took care of the ick in the tank. Raised the temp, had salt in the water, and used the ick meds over a period of four days, then did a water change. I've been watching the fish very carefully and inspecting them as best I can (neons are quick and hatchets are fraidycats). So far, so good. I won't be able to do a water change tonight, but will definitely do one Friday.