Parasite - Never Say Never...

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Ludwig Venter

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It has finally happened.... after 55 years of fishkeeping... I found one of these in my tank... I have read about them and kept an eye out... and to date... never seen one... My son bought some Moonlights and dwarfs and chucked them in my tank and.. two days later... I noticed it on the forehead of the Orange Chromide... a day later on the molly and so it moved from one fish to the next every day... Last night I caught the Chromide and removed it.... Now... I'm just wondering... If there's one... can I expect to see more..... Can they spontaneously appear in your tank.... Is there anything other than scratching them off that will kill them.... What damage can they cause to the fish.....

Argulus. (Fish Louse)

 
From my reading on these nasty beasties the physical removing of them from fish can cause more harm because of how the louse attaches itself to the fish with various barbs and hooks, these can be left behind in the fish much like when you remove a tick from a person or pet.

The stress of having been a host to the louse can also weaken the fish and leave it suspectable to secondary infections and further attacks from other parasites.

Because I have no way of knowing if the louse you found was a female it would be safe to assume that there will be more. Since a pregnant female leaves the host fish to lay its eggs in plants and on other submerged objects. The water temp needs to be 16 degrees cel for egg production, with the eggs taking 3-4 weeks to hatch. And just to add to the nastiness of them they can over winter.

After hatching the juveniles go through several metamorphous stages before becoming adult. The juveniles must find a host within four days but an adult can last several days without a host. The entire life cycle can be played out in 30 - 100 days depending on water temp.

For removal you could try a salt bath (this works well for leeches on fish and shrimp too), another suggested treatment is with malachite green dapped on with a cotton bud.

If possible I would remove the fish checking them for hitch hikers and treat as necessary before placing them in other temp accomadtion. I would either throw the plants or treat the entire tank with malachite green since salt would more than likely kill the plants. ANd then I would turn the temp up on the tank to speed up the louses life cycle and leave the tank barren of hosts for at least a month.
That may lick your problem.
 
Ewewewewewew.....
 
 
1+ to all the info up there!
 
Hope this will help:
 
Diagnosis and Management
 
Because of their size, older stages of Argulus can be diagnosed with the naked eye. The parasites are visible moving on the host or swimming in the water. The parasite can also be identified on a wet mount of the affected tissue. Captured fish should be examined quickly because Argulus may rapidly leave the fish once it is disturbed or removed from the water. Filtering water from the system through a fine mesh net may also help capture free-swimming Argulus adults or juveniles for identification. Adults and juvenile stages (which are similar to adults but lack suckers) are relatively easy to identify, but their identification should be verified by a fish health professional.
 
Drug choice and length of treatment for Argulus infections should take into consideration the life cycle of the parasite, which varies from 30 to 60 days depending on temperature and species. Treatment should target all life stages, including eggs, juveniles, and adults, both on the fish and in the environment. Adult parasites can be manually removed from the affected fish, but this is impractical in many situations and is an incomplete solution because eggs, unattached juveniles, and adults will still be present in the environment. Fish can be moved to a clean tank and treated with the appropriate drugs, while eggs in the original system are eliminated either by cleaning and disinfecting the tank or allowing it to dry completely. However, drying may be difficult in humid areas, and at cooler temperatures eggs can survive much longer time periods. Optimal water quality should be maintained for the duration of any treatments.
 
Several medications have historically been used for bath treatment of Argulus, but potential resistance to treatment, current availability, legality of use (especially in food fish species), dosage rates and associated costs, and fish species’ sensitivities may reduce options. It is best to work with a fish health specialist. There are currently no FDA-approved drugs for the treatment and control of Argulus. Prolonged immersion of an organophosphate pesticide, such as trichlorfon (Dylox® 80, Bayer), which acts by disrupting the nervous system, has been an effective treatment when dosed at 0.25–0.50 mg/L active ingredient, once a week for 4 treatments. Unfortunately Dylox® 80, the only aquatic organophosphate 24 (c) pesticide approved for use in Florida and several other states, is no longer being manufactured. Diflubenzuron (Dimilin®, Chemtura) is another pesticide, which acts by interfering with the parasite’s molting (“shedding”) of the outer skin (“exoskeleton”) during growth and development. Diflubenzuron effectively kills both adult and larval stages, but it is a restricted-use pesticide, and applicators must follow label instructions. Other compounds with a similar mechanism of action as diflubenzuron, such as lufenuron (Program®, Novartis Animal Health) at 0.13 mg/L, have also been used with success. Potassium permanganate (10 mg/L for 30 minutes, or 1.3 mg/L applied twice over 3 days) has been shown to be effective in killing the juvenile and adult stages of freshwater species in several studies. Potassium permanganate is not recommended for use in marine systems. Increased salt concentration does not appear to be effective for the control of Argulus in freshwater, nor does formalin.
 
Emamectin benzoate (SLICETM, Merck Animal Health) is an in-feed product that has been shown to experimentally control Argulus infections in goldfish and koi. Emamectin is licensed outside the U.S. for control of sea lice, a saltwater copepod parasite; however, in the U.S. emamectin is an FDA Investigational New Animal Drug (INAD) and, therefore, is currently unavailable for general use. Those interested in its use must contact the manufacturer and enroll in an INAD study (see this site for more information: http://www.fws.gov/fisheries/aadap/slice.htm). Of all the drugs listed above, only potassium permanganate (in freshwater) is legal for use in fish intended for human consumption, and its effectiveness may not be ideal. There are currently no approved products for use in foodfish species. Consequently, it is critical to know where your fish are coming from and to quarantine new fish before introducing them to your system. Potentially infested fish should not be mixed with clean fish without a proper quarantine.
 
Effective management of an Argulus outbreak must include proper identification of the parasite, treatment of all life stages on the fish and in the environment, and proper drug use. Drugs available for treatment of Argulus infestations are limited, so inclusion of a fish health professional in the diagnosis and management will help minimize the biological and economic impact of an Argulus outbreak.
from http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/fa184
 
L.V.- I think in our conversations you mentioned you knew Prof. Dirk B. at the U of S there. He should probably be able to advise re what can be found in S. A. to treat these nasty critters.
 
Ludwig Venter said:
It has finally happened.... after 55 years of fishkeeping... I found one of these in my tank...
Wow, that's crazy! I've had a few instances of Marine parasites but in FW have been without so I know much more about the marine versions than the fresh. 
 
Can you tell me, do they scatter their eggs or lay them in the fish?
 
Neither-
 
 

Argulus Life Cycle
Argulus has a direct life cycle, meaning it only requires one host (the fish) to completely develop from an egg to a mature, reproducing adult. All crustaceans, including Argulus, develop and grow through a complex series of molts (i.e., by shedding their outer surface, or “exoskeleton,” which is made of a compound called chitin) and multiple life stages. Unlike copepods—another group of crustacean fish parasites, such as Lernaea (the anchorworm) (see the EDIS publication, Lernaea (Anchorworm) Infections in Fish, forthcoming)—branchiurans continue to molt periodically even after reaching maturity. Some chemical control methods (see Diagnosis and Management) kill the parasite by inhibiting the molting process.
 
While the branchiuran life cycle averages 30 to 60 days, the actual duration depends on the parasite species and the water temperature. All life stages of both sexes are parasitic—unlike the non-parasitic male anchorworm (Lernaea), a related crustacean copepod parasite (see publication FA185, Lernaea (Anchorworm) Infestations in Fish http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/fa185)—and Argulus adults can survive for several days off the fish host. After a male/female pair mates, the adult female detaches from the fish host to lay eggs onto hard surfaces and vegetation in the environment. After she releases her eggs, the female returns to the fish host.
 
The time required for Argulus eggs to hatch will vary, depending upon the species and temperature. Argulus japonicus eggs hatch in 10 days at 35°C but require 61 days at 15°C. At 23°C the eggs of a closely related species, A. foliaceus, hatch in 17 days, whereas at 20°C they hatch in 30 days. If laid in the fall, eggs are capable of overwintering (surviving) until the following spring. In many species, the first stage larvae (known as the “metanauplius”) (Figure 2) must find a parasitic host within 2–3 days of hatching or they will die. Once attached to the fish host, juveniles undergo a series of molts (11 molts or 12 “stages” in A. foliaceus) until they reach sexual maturity, roughly 30–40 days after hatching. Juveniles can overwinter within the fish’s mucus.
still from http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/fa184
 
In researching this particular nasty I was struck by how difficult it can be to eliminate them. There is no easy method nor one that is certain to work and still keep the fish safe. This bug is even worse if you are farming fish for food use. then many of the treatments that might help are not legal to use.
 
I think probably Dimilin is the easiest solution if you can find it? We have discussed this med on the wild angel forum for treating other things. It is for sure a solution that requires great care on the part of a hobbyist who must use it.
 
Found this re Dimilin but I am not sure how much to trust it. http://www.koivet.com/a_dimilin_argulus_anchorworm_koi_treatment.html I am particular put off bit the claim it wont harm fish since I find research to the contrary.
 
http://europepmc.org/abstract/MED/15149123
http://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/10.1002/etc.5620140810/abstract
http://www.uel.br/laboratorios/lefa/Pereira%20Maduenho%20and%20Martinez%202008.pdf
 
These are only a few. So as hobbyists we are faced with the choice between two potentially harmful paths. We cannot leave the argulus to run rampant but we also need to be cautious using this "med" as a cure. For sure this med should not be used with inverts since many molt.
 

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