Opinion On This Tank Please

Well, RE maintenance on a tall tank, that could be solved, or at least partly solved, in several ways. If you had an internal filter, it could be positioned so the flow is greatest nearer the substrate, which means any waste will be blown back into the filter. If you were going to have gravel, you could do a reverse undergravel filter, which stops waste building up onthe substrate plus gives you all the surface area of the gravel as extra filtration.

Personally I think certain cory species would be fine as tankmates. The tank will be at room temp, which isn't actually that cold especially in our modern, centrally heated houses. They aren't going to get eaten, both from a size perspective and that cories are well armoured, not food fish at all. The fish aren't going to bother each other either.
 
VaegaVic, i hope you haven't took offence to my opinions. Seems to have gotten you a little riled up and that was far from my intentions ;).

Will comment back to your answers and please don't think in anyways im getting at you.

Haha sorry, I do tend to get rather involved when it comes to topics like these, simply because there are so many different answers and opinions. Currently where I work this is a rather hot topic, it's gotten to the point now of where I refuse to sell any g-fish at all, unless to a large tank or pond, which of course has resulted in problems with the management.
Instead now, I always recommend Temperate fish, which in most cases can go with/replace Gfish, simply as an alternative to the massive beasts of waste.
Apologies for my "riledupedness", but when you're dealing day after day with people who want 5L and 5 gfish, it's hard not to get to this rather insane state.
 
OK,

I've now made up my mind. I am going to keep away from the cube tank due to the disadvantages already mentioned. I know a rectangular tank will be better for my goldfish so that's what they're going to get. I am probably going to get a Juwel Rio 240 litre rectangular tank because it's a better shape for my fish and it's got a slightly larger volume.

One other question, apart from the appearance and slightly increased volume, are there any other advantages to a bow fronted tank? Do they have a horrible magnifying effect on the fish?
 
Bowfront vs. Flatfront is very much personal taste, very little difference technically for fishkeeping. We currently have a bowfront and in my case I've found myself disappointed, but maybe that's just me. Originally I felt the bowfront somehow meant I would be able to more easily look "in" to the tank (ie. the fish might seem out where you could examine them better.. something like that.) What I didn't count on was that the front glass, combined with the water, seems to form a true "optical lens" of sorts and works to magnify your view towards the back of the tank - removing the "depth" of the aquascape in the process. I now find this look of "shallowness" from front to back to be rather disappointing. One other minor thing that happens in a bowfront is that if the surface flow from the filter output is back to front then the bowfront will collect the width of the flow and funnel it to the center, creating a stronger downdraft in the center front. This can send smaller fish scooting downward at the center of your viewing area which can be disconcerting, but of course goldfish would be too big for this problem to occur.

~~waterdrop~~
 
Bowfront vs. Flatfront is very much personal taste, very little difference technically for fishkeeping. We currently have a bowfront and in my case I've found myself disappointed, but maybe that's just me. Originally I felt the bowfront somehow meant I would be able to more easily look "in" to the tank (ie. the fish might seem out where you could examine them better.. something like that.) What I didn't count on was that the front glass, combined with the water, seems to form a true "optical lens" of sorts and works to magnify your view towards the back of the tank - removing the "depth" of the aquascape in the process. I now find this look of "shallowness" from front to back to be rather disappointing. One other minor thing that happens in a bowfront is that if the surface flow from the filter output is back to front then the bowfront will collect the width of the flow and funnel it to the center, creating a stronger downdraft in the center front. This can send smaller fish scooting downward at the center of your viewing area which can be disconcerting, but of course goldfish would be too big for this problem to occur.

~~waterdrop~~

Thanks Waterdrop, in that case I will stick with the 240 litre flat front. I don't like the magnifying effect of bent glass. As you say, any change in water current shouldn't affect big lumbering goldfish. I just need to decide on what other fish to put in with them that won't nip their tails and won't steal all the food.
 
Wish I were more help on that. I've kept goldfish but never any other coldwater fish with them. I've always been interested in White Cloud Mountain Minnows but at least one web page recommends not keeping them with Goldfish. I don't know how correct that information is, they might be fine in there with the goldfish.

~~waterdrop~~
 
Thanks Waterdrop,

I asked the same question on here and I think the reply was that the minnows swim much quicker and therefore deprive the goldfish of food. They may also nip the tails of the goldfish. This is a shame as I would a small shoal of small fish to go with my goldfish. The other fish that was suggested on here was a bristlenose pleco. They sound ideal to put in with goldfish but they're an ugly beast.
 
Thanks Waterdrop,

I asked the same question on here and I think the reply was that the minnows swim much quicker and therefore deprive the goldfish of food. They may also nip the tails of the goldfish. This is a shame as I would a small shoal of small fish to go with my goldfish. The other fish that was suggested on here was a bristlenose pleco. They sound ideal to put in with goldfish but they're an ugly beast.

Sadly, people still believe this to be true. Bristlenoses do NOT like cold temperatures. Min is 21C, any lower than that and they start to die.

I would also be weary about keeping any sucker with broad sided fish. Ottocinclus for example, like to suck the slime coats off of Discus and Angel fish.
 
Thanks Waterdrop,

I asked the same question on here and I think the reply was that the minnows swim much quicker and therefore deprive the goldfish of food. They may also nip the tails of the goldfish. This is a shame as I would a small shoal of small fish to go with my goldfish. The other fish that was suggested on here was a bristlenose pleco. They sound ideal to put in with goldfish but they're an ugly beast.

Sadly, people still believe this to be true. Bristlenoses do NOT like cold temperatures. Min is 21C, any lower than that and they start to die.

Wait what? Keep fancy g-fish any lower than 21C and they don't do too well themselves! A temperature of at least 65F is a must for fancies, with 70-74 being preferable. They are very different from commons in that respect.

Also GG I believe female BNs come sans-moustache so you may want to look into that.

I have heard bad news about keeping most plecos with goldies but bristle and bushynoses are among the more docile of plecos and although I'm sure its possible I have never actually heard of one sucking the slime coat off a goldie.

I must agree though that Goldies are best species-only. Compatibility aside I find other fish only distract one from the goldfish, who stand extremely well on their own as a display. A low profile fish like a BN pleco is all I would care to put in with these fish whether they were compatible with everything under the sun or not.
 
Wait what? Keep fancy g-fish any lower than 21C and they don't do too well themselves! A temperature of at least 65F is a must for fancies, with 70-74 being preferable. They are very different from commons in that respect.

Is that really true about the temperature for fancy goldfish? I had no idea. I just assumed anything above 14 celcius would be fine. My current small tank is unheated and is at a steady 20 celcius. Should I consider using the heater in my upcoming new tank to increase the water temperature?
 
Excerpt from Fancy goldfish by Dr. Erik L Johnson, DVM and Richard E. Hess

The temperature at which we should house our goldfish collections is the subject of debate. While it's true that goldfish of most varieties are extremely adaptable to a wide range of temperatures, there is considerable evidence that goldfish do best in water in the mid to high seventies. This temperature range has several clear advantages.

First, it ensures that the water still carries sufficient oxygen. Water warmer than this carries far less oxygen.

Temperatures in the seventies also ensure adequate function of the nitrifying bacteria in the biological filter. Colder temperatures jeopardize the efficiency and capability of the nitrogen cycle.

Since goldfish are "cold-blooded" animals (poikilotherms), this temperature range ensures the proper functioning of fish metabolism and normal levels of activity without unduly increasing their oxygen demand.

Different varieties of Goldfish also demonstrate different degrees of adaptability to temperature. The hardiest varieties, including Comets, Shubunkins, and Wakins, will survive winter in North America unless the pond freezes solid. The more highly selected varieties such as Orandas, Ryukins, and Ranchus may survive a temperate winter in North America when left outside, but in my experience they do this with less and less success as they mature. For further discussion of temperature, see Chapter 5.

On the other hand, goldfish will not spawn naturally unless they are subjected to a seasonal temperature drop—though it doesn't have to be as cold as Ontario in January to be "winter" for goldfish. There is also evidence to suggest that the lengthening of the days in the spring also plays an important role in egg production and the onset of breeding behavior.

I can find some more sources when I am not running around trying to get ready for work!
 
I very much doubt that keeping them at 24C at all times will really make such a marked difference. In a house they'll be perfectly fine at normal room temperature.

And an 'optimum' temperature of 24C...well of course it'll speed up their metabolism if you compare it to the same fish at 18C. You don't need a PHD to make that link.

The point being, they dont NEED 24C and they wont suffer AT ALL from living at room temperature.

Also, as long as you allow sufficient surface area of filter media for bacteria to grow on then then the nitrogen cycle doesn't even factor into deciding on the right temperature.
 
Considering that my room temperature gives water at about 65, I have observed a marked difference in my goldfish's health by installing a heater. Hardier varieties like fantails and shubs can tolerate room or outdoor temperatures but there is no evidence to suggest that fancies dont react any differently than a tropical would ot being kept at 10 degreed below an optimum temperature.

GG, a 100 or 150W heater should be sufficient to keep the temps at 70-74 and as an added bonus, even if the thermostat on the heater breaks the heater simply won't have enough wattage to cook the fish.

Furthermore keeping a heater would allow you to accomodate a BN pleco and/or a third goldfish to keep your current 2 busy.

Also, a heater will keep the temperature of the tank constant regardless of what your room temperature is.
 

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