Now What!

comocrayfish5

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so now that i have failed to restart my micro worm culture after 2 weeks, they are all dead and the ones that are still living will not make a new culture so those will be killed in the end. i want to try breeding again this vacation, but i am left with the choice- get m. worms again or BBS. there is good and bad for both. for me the worms were the best because if you keep up with them then the are easy to keep and keep multiplying, not to mention that they are slow the the fry can eat them easily. the BBS are faster for the fry to catch, but if i am correct you do not have to do to much maintenance with them and they are easy to keep (BUT i have no clue how to keep them) and if it doesnt work out and i have to try in a week or two, wouldnt the BBS be too big for the fry to eat? *sigh* i dont know what to do.... i am going more towards the worms because they look like the better choice for me (if i keep up with them this time!!)

:dunno:
 
Both, BBS are usually too big for newborn fry. And microwoms are just perfect, also. Feeding only microwoms can cause issues. Such as ventral loss
 
would they be too big i i waited for a long time to breed again?
 
Microwoms and BBS are both very cheap. You should be able to attain both very easily from AB at a low price. Here is a checklist of needs for breeding bettas


The Spawning Tank

481246_138372729632232_1890295766_n.jpg


The Spawning Tank is a very important part of breeding. This picture includes the vital parts of a spawning tank.


Many Plants.
floating or non substrate rooted live plants should suffice. Since there shouldn't be any gravel or substrate in the breeding tank, no rooted plants should be used, Silk plants would also do good. I recommend live plants though. Your tank needs to be heavily planted, so the female feels secure and can escape for a few seconds away from the male.

Caves, Or Decorations
.
this provides even more cover and an area for both the female and the male to retreat to. both the male and female get injured during this process. The female will highly appreciate a cave, or other decoration to retreat to, this reduces stress in my opinion and experience

1 - 20 Gallon Spawning Tank.
The Spawning tank can be any size ranging from 1 - 20 gallons, the tank size can also vary depending on the way you breed. Usually the "Thai" way is used with smaller tanks, while the "Hobbyist Method" usually consists of larger tanks half filled or only filled to a certain amount. usually males don't spawn in higher tanks. hence why the water level is lower

A Sponge Filter (Optional).
A Filter is optional. I usually choose to use a filter though when spawning as it reduces the need for water changes. I would preferably use a Sponge Filter. I try to cause Minimal stress, and changing the water to the fish's needs will cause a bit of stress. with constantly introducing and removing water. The filter helps greatly with this issue. Remember. only a cycled filter will help with this issue

No Substrate
.
Substrate can be used in a spawning tank but it makes it very hard for the Male Betta to pick up the eggs and place them into the Bubble Nest. Even though the substrate might be "pretty" it makes spawning completely harder. Please don't use any sort of substrate. gravel or sand, it isn't needed and it just makes it harder for them to spawn

A Chimney.
What's called a chimney is primarily needed to spawn. It lets the male and female see each other with out hurting or injuring each other. it also helps to identify if the female is ready for breeding, she'll show vertical breeding stripes. I personally use a 1 - 2 liter soda bottle cut at the bottom and, a place the female in it. My example is shown in the picture at the top.

An Anchor For The Nest
.
This might be optional to other but to me its an absolute need. My Male Splendens will not make a bubblenest unless there is an anchor such as a half cut cup, a large leaf, or any other close alternative. I personally Use a half cut Styrofoam cup, the anchor also serves another purpose. to minimize the amount of flow where he builds his bubble nest.

Source Of Heat -
all bettas need a source of heat with spawning requiring a bit higher than normal. for spawning to occur the temperature should be maintained around 80-85. Use heaters or heat the room to maintain temperatures. Make sure they dont constantly fluctuate

Male And Female Betta

A Quality Pair.
This is The most important part about breeding Bettas. You always want a quality pair that is worth breeding. breeding deformed Bettas could result in even more deformities while breeding Veil Tails would result in difficulties to find homes for and a minimal profit.

Live Or Frozen Foods.
Live or frozen foods are needed for conditioning the pair. Brine Shrimp, Black Worms, Blood worms, Mosquito Larvae, and others can be used

Growout Tank, and Fry Needs


A Minimum Of 10-20 Gallon Tank
A minimum of a 10 - 20 gallon would be needed to maintain a growout tank depending on the size of the spawn. for smaller spawns a 10 gallon can be used. Usually a minimum of a 20 gallon is needed, only a ten gallon can be used for very small spawns such as 20 fry

Source Of Heat
all bettas need a source of heat with fry requiring a bit higher than normal. For best and optimal growth within the fry, temperatures around 85-88 should be maintained. Use heaters or heat the room to maintain temperatures. Make sure they dont constantly fluctuate.

Sponge Filter.
While This is arguable, in My Personal Opinion a cycled filter with minimal flow is needed to help clean the water along with adding dissolved oxygen into the water for the fry. Fry grow faster and are healthier with cleaner water. Always make sure the tank is cycled first.

Plants And Cover (Optional).
This is optional, plants and cover arent needed in any way. some breeders believe the growth is faster and the fry are healthier with many live plants in the tank. select the proper plants if you choose to add them, some plants cant withstand such high temperatures

Live Foods
Live foods are needed for fry, Some good foods are Baby Brine Shrimp, Microwoms, Banana Worms, Walter Worms, and infusoria. these are all nutritional and promote great growth within the betta. once they get older frozen foods can be fed

100+ Jars
Many, Many jars or small tanks are needed for breeding as aggressive males need to be seperated from the growout tank because they will most likely become a problem. the time spawn in which they gain aggression can differ so there really isnt any specific time when they get aggression if you were gonna wait for a couple of months until you get jars. Quart Jars are perfect for separating them.
 
ok so from your check list (very helpful BTW) :

-many plants
-caves
-10gal spawning tank (half filled)
-sponge filter
-no substrate
- 1/2 Styrofoam cup for nest
-heater
-frozen blood worms fir the adults
- 10 gal grow out tank
- ^ heater, sponge filter, plants

as for the live fry food, i dont want to get BBS and then have them too big after a few weeks because i might have to try breeding a few times.... so i dont know what to do. i can get a big bag of newly hatched BBS on ebay... i will probably get m. worms again. if there are fry them i will probably put a square of lettuce in the tank along with the live foods

and my adults... i hope they will do some thing this time. i dont know if they will, which makes me sad because i dont know how to find the 'perfect pair' from the pet store (i dont have the money to get them from aquabid)

*sigh* i know how to do everything but i am just nervous that it wont work and it will be a big waste of money.... :-(
 
Don't give up so easily comocray. I have revived a microworm culture after over 6 weeks by being careful about what I used to start the next culture. If you have any decent microworms anywhere in your culture, you can revive it. It takes a bit more effort but it can be done. Don't give up so easily.
 
oops... i have already drowned and threw out the culture.... :blush: the smell was awful and i could not stand it anymore :sick:

do you recommend BBS or m worms?
 
Both are good for fry but the microworms or even better banana worms are far smaller than BBS. Since you are looking to feed truly tiny fry, the BBS will simply be too big at first. That is why I always keep both microworms and banana worms. It gives me some very tiny food for tiny fry.
 
You cannot only use one type of food. You need different foods for each stage and age of the fry. Microwoms are only okay for small fry, BBS are okay for fry of all ages, grindal worms are only okay for 1+ month old fry.
 
Comcrayfish can i just say your betta leeann is beautiful
 
You cannot only use one type of food. You need different foods for each stage and age of the fry. Microwoms are only okay for small fry, BBS are okay for fry of all ages, grindal worms are only okay for 1+ month old fry.
ok then i will use m worms for the new hatched fry then move to BBS. i need help on how to care for BBS. i will probably get:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Hatched-To-Order-Live-Baby-Brine-Shrimp-16oz-Appox-25-000-brine-/200705005953?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2ebaf35981#ht_1094wt_1345

Comcrayfish can i just say your betta leeann is beautiful

thanks! she does not have the breeding bars now and is just blue but occasionally has stripes
 

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