Feeding youngh discus will require 4-5 heavy feeds of high protien food every day. This makes lots of ammonia. For every 1ppm of ammonia you get arround 9 of nitrate, and disucs are nitrate intollerant, if the no3 gets above 25-50ppm you often start seeing breathing irregularities and symptoms of toxic shock forming.

While youngh at least, 50% weekly will be minimum

Some fish will tolerate higher, but it very much depends on breeding.
What is your nitrate reading from the tap? If it is more than about 25ppm, you may well need to use RO for waterchanges afterall.....

There are a few nitrate removal resins that could be used, or HMA filters, but they won't remove it all, and there may be other things lurking in there along with nitrate.... I do't suppose you know the phosphate reading from the tap do you also? Though PO4 and N03 readings aren't the be-all-and-end-all they are a good indicator of overall toxin levels in the tank.... If phosthate levels isn't know, what is your waterboard? They have to publish stats in nitrate and phosphate (and many other things) on their website by law. They won't be accurate to your tap, but they will give an idea as to where levels are...
We have found out what is needed....

Lots of clean fresh water

I assume on that tank you can get a hose in? Thats how I do mine....no mess, no heavy lifting and minimal fuss

There are probibly other ways of getting round waterchanges, but are they cost effective? If they were, I suspect we would all be using those ways already, or at least know of them in the main stream... I bulk Buy waterchanditioner. A 150ishl waterchange costs me about 1-2p at most. Hardly a bank breaker, and deffinately better than a nitrate removal filter....
All the best
Rabbut