New to cichlids, help!

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jigagummyz

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Hi,
I've recently acquired a 55 gallon tank including a stand for a measly $100 (such a great deal) and am currently in the process of cycling it. I've been set on Mbuna/African cichlids since I got the tank and due to that I've bought a filter with a turnover of 10 - which is about 2000 l/h since I know African cichlids are often overstocked to reduce aggression and need a strong filter to combat the large bio-load.

I've come here to ask a few questions about cichlids and how to keep them, since I prefer to plan ahead and have everything set to go by the time I go and buy them, the questions are as follows:

1. Is a 55 gallon tank enough for African cichlids? The dimensions are 100cm length, 40cm depth and about 52cm height.
2. Which African cichlids am I able to keep? I really like the ones which have VIBRANT colors like the yellow labs, and although I do like ones with mixed colors I usually prefer one solid color, and to have a few of each color in the tank.
3. Are African cichlids okay with semi-hard water? I would have trouble investing in a reverse osmosis machine and my water is a BIT towards the hard side, due to where I live.
4. Are they okay with plants? I have a few plants in the cycling tank and would prefer not to throw them away.

The size, parameters and preferences taken into consideration, which type of cichlid would you advise me to keep?
Thank you everyone in advance!
 
I think Mbuna are very aggressive and may need bigger tank. But I can't comment much because I kept them for only a short period.

The smaller species and less aggressive Shell Dwellers and some other Lake Tanganyika fish are suitable.

African fish require hard water. So, reverse osmosis is not require.

For actual water hardnes, you need to know your water GH and check against the Seriously Fish website below for fish that are suitable for your tap water.













 
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I think Mbuna are very aggressive and may need bigger tank. But I can't comment much because I kept them for only a short period.

The smaller species and less aggressive Shell Dwellers and some other Lake Tanganyika fish are suitable.

African fish require hard water. So, reverse osmosis is not require.

For actual water hardnes, you need to know your water GH and check against the Seriously Fish website below for fish that are suitable for your tap water.













Thank you for the reply and the information. I've considered getting shell dwellers but I went on to find their colors very bland and they seemed mostly timid and not very active. are there any other cichlids I can keep if mbunas are out of the option?
 
Thank you for the reply and the information. I've considered getting shell dwellers but I went on to find their colors very bland and they seemed mostly timid and not very active. are there any other cichlids I can keep if mbunas are out of the option?

Did you check other species of Lake Tanganyikan fish?
You can find them from the videos and links that I posted earlier.

By the way, among the Mbuna, probably Yellow Lab (Electric Yellow Cichlid) can be considered. Check their requirement again.
If based on info below, they are ok for your tank.

But you cannot mix Mbuna(from Lake Malawi) with Lake Tanganyikan fish. Mbuna are more aggressive.
For Lake Tanganyikan, I like Neolamprologus Caudopunctatus which has blue eyes and yellow fins and Brichardi(more aggressive).



 
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A tank that is 100cm long is minimum size for African Rift Lake cichlids in the Mbuna group.

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The reason you need a big filter on Rift Lake tanks is due to the pH of the water. Africa's Rift Lakes have a pH above 7.0 (Lake Tanganyika has a pH closer to 9.0). Any ammonia produced in water with a pH above 7.0 is toxic to fish, the higher the pH, the more toxic it becomes. Having lots of filtration in Rift Lake and Marine tanks helps remove ammonia quicker so it has less time to harm the fish.

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You need to know what the GH and pH of your water supply is. Rift Lake cichlids needs hard water and don't o well in soft acid water. Lake Malawi has a GH around 350ppm and a pH around 7.6. Lake Tanganyika has a GH over 400ppm and a pH over 8.5.

What is the GH (general hardness), KH (carbonate hardness) and pH of your water supply?
This information can usually be obtained from your water supply company's website or by telephoning them. If they can't help you, take a glass full of tap water to the local pet shop and get them to test it for you. Write the results down (in numbers) when they do the tests. And ask them what the results are in (eg: ppm, dGH, or something else).

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A lot of Rift Lake cichlids eat plants and dig holes, which cause plants to float to the surface. Water Sprite is a floating plant that can also be planted in the substrate and does well in most aquariums. If you get too many growing on the surface you can plant them in the gravel. If the fish dig them up and they float to the surface they will be fine there too.

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You could have a trio of electric yellows, a trio of peacocks and something else in the tank. When you set up a Rift Lake tank, try to add all the fish at the same time and get them all the same size so none have an advantage.

If you have to add new fish after the tank has fish in it, rearrange the tank just before you add the new fish so the old established territories are broken up and the new fish has more chance of surviving.
 
Hi

I kept about 7 Mbunas in my 100l 2ft tank whilst they were still juvenile and before i got my 5ft tank.

Plants seem to be okay and ive met a few people at my LFS who have a full on planted tank - personally ive gone more on the rocks and caves with a few Plastic plants.

There’s plenty of sites that will tell you the ideal parameters for Malawi cichlids - i use a Lake Malawi buffer to push my water into the correct measurements (hardness and pH)

Im far from a Cichlid expert and made a few mistakes but ive found that having lots of hiding places and caves allows them to set out their territory so there’s less aggression - My tank has one side literally full of rocks, plants and plant pots for them to hide in, with the other side pretty open and ive found that they happily swim all day in the open side then go back to caves to chill in the evening.
 
Forget to mention filtration -

When i asked this question on another forum it kicked off a huge row and i wished I hadn’t asked.

There seems to be a lot of different views ranging from x2 the tank volume per hour to x10

My tank is 450l so if I went for the x10 I’d need another 3 external filters and I’m sorry but i just couldn’t afford it.

Bear in mind the manufactures figures aren’t always correct but I’m running at 1600lph so that’s x4 my tank volume per hour. , my numbers are stable and that’s with 40 odd small cichlids and some messy plecs and frogs.

Aim for at least double the tank volume per hour if the fish aren’t creating lots of mess and judge it based on your parameters. If the filter cant cope then you’ll see it in the numbers
 
A tank that is 100cm long is minimum size for African Rift Lake cichlids in the Mbuna group.

-----------------------
The reason you need a big filter on Rift Lake tanks is due to the pH of the water. Africa's Rift Lakes have a pH above 7.0 (Lake Tanganyika has a pH closer to 9.0). Any ammonia produced in water with a pH above 7.0 is toxic to fish, the higher the pH, the more toxic it becomes. Having lots of filtration in Rift Lake and Marine tanks helps remove ammonia quicker so it has less time to harm the fish.

-----------------------
You need to know what the GH and pH of your water supply is. Rift Lake cichlids needs hard water and don't o well in soft acid water. Lake Malawi has a GH around 350ppm and a pH around 7.6. Lake Tanganyika has a GH over 400ppm and a pH over 8.5.

What is the GH (general hardness), KH (carbonate hardness) and pH of your water supply?
This information can usually be obtained from your water supply company's website or by telephoning them. If they can't help you, take a glass full of tap water to the local pet shop and get them to test it for you. Write the results down (in numbers) when they do the tests. And ask them what the results are in (eg: ppm, dGH, or something else).

-----------------------
A lot of Rift Lake cichlids eat plants and dig holes, which cause plants to float to the surface. Water Sprite is a floating plant that can also be planted in the substrate and does well in most aquariums. If you get too many growing on the surface you can plant them in the gravel. If the fish dig them up and they float to the surface they will be fine there too.

-----------------------
You could have a trio of electric yellows, a trio of peacocks and something else in the tank. When you set up a Rift Lake tank, try to add all the fish at the same time and get them all the same size so none have an advantage.

If you have to add new fish after the tank has fish in it, rearrange the tank just before you add the new fish so the old established territories are broken up and the new fish has more chance of surviving.
Thank you for the detailed reply.
I have pretty hard water here in Israel with a pH of about 8. I have 2 follow-up questions in light of recent events:

1. I recently got a big piece of driftwood for my tank, will it be okay for the mbuna's? I'm mostly referring to their natural habitats and landscapes that they live in. I will have rocks in the tank in addition to the driftwood but I was wondering If driftwood is bad\unnatural for the cichlids.
2. You said I could get a trio of Yellow labs and a trio of Peacocks. Is that 6 fish in total? I got the impression that mbunas need to be in groups of 5 or more of each species. and also, I have friend who works in a fish lab and they have some fish to give away, amongst the yellow labs they also have Demasoni and Electric blue Johannii's. would these 2/3 species be compatible with each other?
 
I would put electric yellows in your tank. 3-5 total. It depends alot on how much protection you can give them, the more caves you can create the better. I don't like water buffers. I feel it is better to buffer the water naturally, so I use a lime chip base, this will give you the necessary hardness and pH. I only do 25% water changes weekly. Aim to have a filter that moves your water 4 times per hour. Plants are sometimes fine just don't put them in places that annoy the fish. Try plants like Valissneria and Ludwigia
 
I would put electric yellows in your tank. 3-5 total. It depends alot on how much protection you can give them, the more caves you can create the better. I don't like water buffers. I feel it is better to buffer the water naturally, so I use a lime chip base, this will give you the necessary hardness and pH. I only do 25% water changes weekly. Aim to have a filter that moves your water 4 times per hour. Plants are sometimes fine just don't put them in places that annoy the fish. Try plants like Valissneria and Ludwigia
Really? I can only house 3-5 labs in my aquarium TOTAL?
 
You’ll get a lot of differing views on stocking.
Theres no firm answer as it depends on species, as there are hundreds its all about making sure their environmental needs are covered and thinking about adult Size. It gets confusing when you have dwarfs, normals and large.


55 US gallon id be putting in 20. Ive got 450 litre 98. US gallon with 40..
 
Really? I can only house 3-5 labs in my aquarium TOTAL?
I had 6 fish in my 200 liter tank. Aquarists do things in different ways. With my 6 fish I had 2 pairs that were spawning and raising young, I was continually removing those young fish.
 

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