New tank.

akos

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Hi

I just set up my 120l tank 4 days ago after five years break. I used my old sand, drift wood, filter with new media, everything cleaned thoroughly.
I used Tap water conditioner and Bio-boost (both Aqua Care brand) following the instructions.

Day 1-3 only water, wood and filter (my old heater was broken - filled up with water) only natural light.

Today I received the heater and about 15 plants and 6 moss balls. Turned the light on, did 10% water change.

3 hours later I did a water test (6in1 Tetra brand) only KH is slightly high...is that possible or my test kit which is 6+ year old is tricking me?
Also today I have noticed a bit of white-cloudy slime on the wood? Is it the result of bacteria blooming? Water is clear now and odour free.
Thanks for any advice
 

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To take your questions one at a time- -

The test strip - is it still in date? Could it ever have become damp?
If it's out of date it could be a false reading. Chemicals do 'go off' when exposed to air, even those in test strips. And if it have even got damp, that also means a potential for false readings. However having said all that, your location is SE London, which most likely has hard water and high KH.
KH does not affect fish directly, it stabilises pH. Where KH is high pH is very stable and it is almost impossible to change pH, but with very low KH, it is easy for pH to change.

What does your test strip give for GH? That is the most important parameter for fish. You can check the reading on the strip be looking for your hardness on your water company's website. They may give a number in mg/l calcium carbonate (which we call ppm) or German degrees (which we call dH) or one of several other units.



The wood.
The slime is fungus coming from within the wood. Most types of fungus are harmless but there are some toxic types. Take it outside and wash it off.


The Bio Boost.
This won't contain the right species of nitrite eaters I'm afraid. The use of the correct ones is copyrighted and only Dr Tim's One & Only and Tetra Safe Start contain the correct species as those companies hold the copyright.
But the good news is with the plants you don't need to grow many bacteria; the plants will remove ammonia faster than the bacteria can and they don't turn it into nitrite or nitrate. What you need to do now is wait until the plants are obviously growing - you already have a photo, so you have something to compare them to to tell if they are growing. Once the plants have definitely established you can add fish a batch at a time. It is always safest to check for ammonia and nitrite every day after adding fish.




Finally, fish.
Before buying any fish, research. Find out the hardness (GH) of your water and buy fish which need the same hardness.
 
Hello. A 30 gallon tank is about right for getting back into the hobby. Using the old stuff is always a good idea. Saves money and there's nothing wasted. Once the tank is set up, I would begin an aggressive water change routine. A 30 gallon tank really needs half the water changed every few days. Twice weekly isn't too much. If you follow this routine without missing a change, there will be no need to test the water. You'll know the water chemistry is always constant and this is all your fish require. An aggressive water change routine will more than make up for any mistakes in tank management.

Finally, don't make keeping a tank difficult by adding too many duties to the project. These added steps just make it easier to forget something.

10 Tanks (Now 11)
 
Hello. A 30 gallon tank is about right for getting back into the hobby. Using the old stuff is always a good idea. Saves money and there's nothing wasted. Once the tank is set up, I would begin an aggressive water change routine. A 30 gallon tank really needs half the water changed every few days. Twice weekly isn't too much. If you follow this routine without missing a change, there will be no need to test the water. You'll know the water chemistry is always constant and this is all your fish require. An aggressive water change routine will more than make up for any mistakes in tank management.

Finally, don't make keeping a tank difficult by adding too many duties to the project. These added steps just make it easier to forget something.

10 Tanks (Now 11)
Thanks 10 now 11 Tanks,

I think I'll wait with that water change regime you have suggested until I get my water test results...
In my old thank once it was established I used to change 25-30% once a month, rinsed 1 of the 2 filter media in the old water and wiped to front glass from inside (the tank was built in to the chimney breast - obviously fire place was not in use). Everything was fine and dandy.
I am hoping to get there this time as well.

Thanks for the advice!
 
Thanks Essjay, that is helpful.

I'll wait a week for the plants to establish then I take a water sample to the local aquarium shop, they do water testing for £1...most likely a better one than a 6in1 strip.
I am in Norfolk now, can't change location on my profile. I know the water is really hard here.

I did have the same wood in my old fishtank for 6 years with no problem, then 5 years storing outside. I brushed them few times and soaked them for about a week, changing water every day...do you think boiling water rinse would be ok? Or just scrub it under running water?

I definitely take my time to populate the tank, although kids are driving me nuts with all their requirements and wishes.
To change your location, click on your profile at the upper right corner of the forum screen. Then click on "account details" and scroll down until you find Location.

The only problem you might have with your wood is if it has been somewhere with environmental pollution, such as car exhaust or pesticides. If that's the case, I'd recommend throwing it out. But if not, just scrub it clean and you're ready to go.

Kids do make slow stocking difficult. ha ha Time for them to learn about patience!
 
A 30 gallon tank really needs half the water changed every few days.
No it doesn't.

The more water that gets changed, of course the better if it's conditioned appropriately. And I have seen enough of your posts to know your agenda, and I agree that not enough of us in the hobby change enough water, perhaps even as high as 90% don't change enough water, and I would not be surprised.

I am with you on your message about being better with water changes, I just think people who might be brand new to the hobby or returning might be confused enough to think your way is the best or only way, and aggressive water changes certainly do not negate testing the water.
 
To take your questions one at a time- -

The test strip - is it still in date? Could it ever have become damp?
If it's out of date it could be a false reading. Chemicals do 'go off' when exposed to air, even those in test strips. And if it have even got damp, that also means a potential for false readings. However having said all that, your location is SE London, which most likely has hard water and high KH.
KH does not affect fish directly, it stabilises pH. Where KH is high pH is very stable and it is almost impossible to change pH, but with very low KH, it is easy for pH to change.

What does your test strip give for GH? That is the most important parameter for fish. You can check the reading on the strip be looking for your hardness on your water company's website. They may give a number in mg/l calcium carbonate (which we call ppm) or German degrees (which we call dH) or one of several other units.



The wood.
The slime is fungus coming from within the wood. Most types of fungus are harmless but there are some toxic types. Take it outside and wash it off.


The Bio Boost.
This won't contain the right species of nitrite eaters I'm afraid. The use of the correct ones is copyrighted and only Dr Tim's One & Only and Tetra Safe Start contain the correct species as those companies hold the copyright.
But the good news is with the plants you don't need to grow many bacteria; the plants will remove ammonia faster than the bacteria can and they don't turn it into nitrite or nitrate. What you need to do now is wait until the plants are obviously growing - you already have a photo, so you have something to compare them to to tell if they are growing. Once the plants have definitely established you can add fish a batch at a time. It is always safest to check for ammonia and nitrite every day after adding fish.




Finally, fish.
Before buying any fish, research. Find out the hardness (GH) of your water and buy fish which need the same hardness.
Thanks Essjay, that is helpful.

I'll wait a week for the plants to establish then I take a water sample to the local aquarium shop, they do water testing for £1...most likely a better one than a 6in1 strip.
I am in Norfolk now, can't change location on my profile. I know the water is really hard here.

I did have the same wood in my old fishtank for 6 years with no problem, then 5 years storing outside. I brushed them few times and soaked them for about a week, changing water every day...do you think boiling water rinse would be ok? Or just scrub it under running water?

I definitely take my time to populate the tank, although kids are driving me nuts with all their requirements and wishes.
 
No it doesn't.

The more water that gets changed, of course the better if it's conditioned appropriately. And I have seen enough of your posts to know your agenda, and I agree that not enough of us in the hobby change enough water, perhaps even as high as 90% don't change enough water, and I would not be surprised.

I am with you on your message about being better with water changes, I just think people who might be brand new to the hobby or returning might be gullible enough to think your way is the best way, and aggressive water changes certainly do not negate testing the water. The two are not mutually exclusive.
Oh boy, here we go. :lol: @akos you will find a wide variety of opinions on here about how often and how much water to change. For most of my tanks, I'm a 50% once a week guy, myself. It's all about balancing what's best for the fish (probably an extremely expensive, automated, continuous water change system with in-line dechlorinator built into the plumbing of your house...or just leaving them in the wild) and what works for your lifestyle. The trend in scientific aquarium keeping has definitely been toward more frequent water changes. Find what works for you and your fish.
 
No it doesn't.

The more water that gets changed, of course the better if it's conditioned appropriately. And I have seen enough of your posts to know your agenda, and I agree that not enough of us in the hobby change enough water, perhaps even as high as 90% don't change enough water, and I would not be surprised.

I am with you on your message about being better with water changes, I just think people who might be brand new to the hobby or returning might be confused enough to think your way is the best or only way, and aggressive water changes certainly do not negate testing the water.
Hello Alex. Water changes remove toxins. The more water you change the more toxins are removed. The toxins left in the tank are diluted to a very safe level in all the new water. Here's a question for you. If you lived in the same water you did "all" your business in, how much water would you like removed and replaced? A little bit every week or so or would you prefer most of it be changed every few days to twice weekly. Silly question I know and I already know the answer.

10 Tank (Now 11)
 
Hello Alex. Water changes remove toxins. The more water you change the more toxins are removed. The toxins left in the tank are diluted to a very safe level in all the new water. Here's a question for you. If you lived in the same water you did "all" your business in, how much water would you like removed and replaced? A little bit every week or so or would you prefer most of it be changed every few days to twice weekly. Silly question I know and I already know the answer.

10 Tank (Now 11)
Hello. I am currently out of the office, but I agree with you, that most of the people need to change more of the water, more of the time. Alex
 

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