My New 76 Us Gallon Tank Setup

[s007]

Hello, this monday im getting my new fluval osaka 260 tank which is 76 gallon tank, I was wondering if anyone can give me some tips (better to know them now then later when mistakes are made lol) i have it comming with:

*Fluval 305 External Filter
*Fluval Tronic Heater 300w
*LCD Thermometer
*Life-Glo & Power-Glo T5HO Bulbs
*Nutrafin Max Tropical Flake Food
*Nutrafin Aquaplus
*Lava Rock x4 large pices about 15 kilograms from German Volcano
*Caribsea Black Marine Sand = 80lb (i think it shuld be enough for planted tank)
*24W UV Sterelizer
*Full Presurized CO2 System (Germany)
*MOPANI WOOD x1
*MARSH ROOTS (extra large size) x1
*Bogwood x2
*Some nice plants
*SEACHEM PH ALERT
*SEACHEM AMONIA ALERT
*Tetra 6 in 1 Testing strips x60
*EASY-LIFE PROFITO PLANT FERTILIZER
*AquaSafe

and other bits and pices... i think im ready for a nice step from 40 liters (still runing nice for 3 years) to 260 liters

Please advice of any things that i need to really know (already read about fishless cycling nice posts u got here)
i will also post my step by step setup pics of the tank hope ull like it guys!

Sergey

 

[rdd1952]

Congratulations on the new tank. Looks like a nice set up. I assume a lot the items listed are part of a "kit" type setup. A couple I would suggest upgrading or changing. Seeing as you've been a member since April, you probably already know a lot of this but just in case...

First the filter is probably not adequate for your tank. Generally, the minimum turnover rate is 5 times per hour. I believe the 305 is rated at 260 gph which would only be a little less than 4 times an hour. And of course, that rate is optimal. Once it is in use and starts filtering and begins to get a little clogged, that number will drop.

Second, test strips are terribly inaccurate. I would suggest a liquid master kit in place of the strips. Another problem with the 6-in-1 strips is that in the beginning, whether you are doing a fish in or fishless cycle, you really don't need to test for nitrate but with strips you do anyway. Basically, you get 25 tests (or ever how many are in the pack) and you're done, probably not even enough to get you through the cycling process. With liquid, a master kit can easily last you 6 months or more. And price wise the liquid iss cheaper too when you calculate it per test.

The pH and ammonia alerts may work fine but I never really trusted them. I would rather just take 5 minutes and run a test than depend on the alerts. And the actual pH number isn't really that important as long as it's stable.

As far as the lava rock is concerned, it shouldn't have an effect on your pH but because it is very rough, you have to be careful using it depending on the type fish you plan to keep. If they rub up against it, they could suffer damage to scales and skin.

I'm sure others may think of some things but you will need a gravel vacuum and probably also eventually need a net. The UV sterilizer is nice but may not be something you necessarily need. Some people do run them all the time. They kill any free floating organisms that pass through it. They are great for clearing or preventing green water caused by free floating algae (diatoms).

I think you will like the look of the black sand. It really brings out the color of the fish much more so than lighter colored substrates.

 

[s007]

rdd1952-> thanks for fast reply and suggestions
Regarding filter would you suggest to upgrade to 405 or XS5 or just get additional filter (tho i wouldnt like to have too many things sticking out and in the tank lol)

Tetra 6 in 1 stips yeah that 25 in each pack but i get them free anyway as many as i want so i dont really care about price. I also have about half left of liquid Phoenix Nitrit and Ammonia tests... suld be enough for the cycle.

Yeah lava rock i like quite allot as i was also told it helps with filtration not sure if its true or not lol, Mostly im going to keep Cardinal Tetras, Discus few Cameroon Armoured Shrimps and 2 Plecs (about them now im conserned as u metiond about raughness of the rocks) tho they got bogwood mopani and marsh roots to chew on he-he...

UV sterelizer is 24W which i think is more then enough and i will just have it on for 2-4 hours a day i guess just to help with filtration and keeping the water stable. I always loved black sand such as carabian or as they call it a moon send + got black backround to really lighten up the nature inside the tank Neons will look great!

Also i wanted to ask. When i place the gravel then fill the tank half way to arrenge decorations do i have my filter off for that time so gravel will settle down utill tank is full? and also as i already got my 44liter tank well mature (3 years now) what can i use from there and how to make thet cycling of new tank faster with out disturbing my 44 liter tank?

Thanks!

 

[rdd1952]

Personally, I like dual filters on larger tanks so I think I would go with another filter in addition to the 305. I run 2 304s (older version) on my 75 gallon tank. You might also want to look into Hydor inline heaters. I also run those and love them. One less thing in the tank too.

As for the gravel/sand, if you only fill the tank half way to place plants and decor, leave the filter off. Even if the intake is below water, the outlet would still be above water and create a lot of splash, possibly messing up the substrate, as it returns to the tank. That sand should settle almost immediately if it's anything like the Tahitian Moon Sand that I use. But since you're just moving plants and aquascaping, there's really no need for the filter at that time.

 

[waterdrop]

Yes, good advice from RDD as always. He recommended the Hydor inline heaters to me, I got one and have been very happy with mine too. I run mine on the output line from my eheim cannister filter. And I agree, no need to start up your filter until the tank is filled. Then its usually recommended to run it a day or so before adding the first ammonia associated with your fishless cycle. Its also a good idea to review the media you'll be choosing for your filters and not just assume the manufacturers have got it right. The members can chat with you about that too.

Hopefully the liquid test kits you mention will get you through the fishless cycle ok, they're not a brand I've heard of before though and we find from listening to hundreds of newcomers here that there's quite a variation in the quality of the various liquid kits too. Many of us use and like the API Freshwater Master Test Kit in this forum. Knowing how and when to use ammonia, nitrite(NO2) and pH tests during fishless cycling is a pretty key thing and interacting with questions and not assuming too much is a good thing while getting through this. But hopefully you've been through this before here and know what you're in for.

~~waterdrop~~

 

[rdd1952]

As for the media, I'm sure it will come with some ceramic rings and a bag or 2 of carbon. I used the rings but just left the carbon out. It will be saturated in a matter of a few days to a couple weeks anyway and doing nothing at that point. You would have to remove it anyway to use any kind of medication if you ever needed to go that route. I bought a jar of the Seachem Matrix and added to the baskets. It's also great if you ever need to clone a tank. Just throw some in the new filter and you're on your way.

 

[s007]

So what you saying instead of carbon i can just thow in some media in to the fluval 305 from my old tank like filter spunge to speed up the cycle? or did i get that wrong?

Also can some one please point me in the right direction on to when to do the tests and how often to do a water change when cycling? so i can post them here when tank arrives and you guys if you can will guide me through as posted by rdd1952 in "Please Do a Fishless Cycle" (ive read it about 3 times to get it all right. When ive tested the parameters of my tap water the results are: pH 7.2 and KH 6 which i think is great results?

Thanks again you all are very helpfull, relly appriciate all of your comments!

 

[rdd1952]

If you have sponges or other media you can move from your other filter then by all means do. The 305, unless it is drastically changed from the 304, has 3 stacked baskets to hold media, not counting the sponge filters (mainly for mechanical filtration) that re on the side. You can put sponges, ceramic media, carbon, filter floss, etc in them as you choose. Adding media from you other tank would definitely jumpstart the new one. And if you are just upgrding, moving everything from one tank to the other, you really wouldn't have to do the fishless cycle if you moved all the media over. Basically the tank would be cycled for the fish you currently have.

If you do a fishless cycle, you should test once per day, morning or evening, when eer you would be adding more ammonia if needed. Once you get further along, you can test a couple times a day to see how fast ammonia and nitrite are beig processed. As for water changes, if you do a fishless cycle, they aren't necessary unless your pH drops and the process stalls. Then it's basically to get the pH back up toward tap pH and get it moving again. Once the nitrite gets off the chart, you can also do WCs to lower it and help speed things up but they aren't necessary.

 

[s007]

And if you are just upgrding, moving everything from one tank to the other, you really wouldn't have to do the fishless cycle if you moved all the media over. Basically the tank would be cycled for the fish you currently have.

Yeah thats what im trying to do the only thing tou said "you really wouldn't have to do the fishless cycle" how is that? I have quite small filter there well as its only 40 liters tank and the only thing that im planing to move from it to my new tank is fish. If i borrow the filter sponge from that small tank to place it in to fluval 305 how will that tanks survive with out one? I guess if the fluval 305 does have 3 sections (baskets) in one i can place my larger stones, in other some of the smaller stones that i use for gravel, and in third filter spong -thats if the other aquarium can survive with out filter for few days ?

Thanks, please let me know how can i bypass fisheles cycle.

Serg

 

[fatheadminnow]

And if you are just upgrding, moving everything from one tank to the other, you really wouldn't have to do the fishless cycle if you moved all the media over. Basically the tank would be cycled for the fish you currently have.

Yeah thats what im trying to do the only thing tou said "you really wouldn't have to do the fishless cycle" how is that? I have quite small filter there well as its only 40 liters tank and the only thing that im planing to move from it to my new tank is fish. If i borrow the filter sponge from that small tank to place it in to fluval 305 how will that tanks survive with out one? I guess if the fluval 305 does have 3 sections (baskets) in one i can place my larger stones, in other some of the smaller stones that i use for gravel, and in third filter spong -thats if the other aquarium can survive with out filter for few days ?

Thanks, please let me know how can i bypass fisheles cycle.

Serg

What he is saying is, if you transfer everything over form your previous tank to your new one i.e. fish and filter media, like the foam insert, you will not have to cycle the new tank that much because the foam insert is already going to have enough bacteria on it to support your fish. All you are doing when putting the foam insert into your new filter is just increasing the water flow through the sponge because your new filter is bigger and can pump more GPH.

-FHM

 

[s007]

What he is saying is, if you transfer everything over form your previous tank to your new one i.e. fish and filter media, like the foam insert, you will not have to cycle the new tank that much because the foam insert is already going to have enough bacteria on it to support your fish. All you are doing when putting the foam insert into your new filter is just increasing the water flow through the sponge because your new filter is bigger and can pump more GPH.

-FHM

You mean.. set up the tank gravel, wood, plants.. let it settle for day. Then take sponge from my old filter place it in the new fluval filter and straigh away place fish in the new 260 osaka tank? As i dont think fish will be happy living for few days with out their filter lol.

 

[fatheadminnow]

What he is saying is, if you transfer everything over form your previous tank to your new one i.e. fish and filter media, like the foam insert, you will not have to cycle the new tank that much because the foam insert is already going to have enough bacteria on it to support your fish. All you are doing when putting the foam insert into your new filter is just increasing the water flow through the sponge because your new filter is bigger and can pump more GPH.

-FHM

You mean.. set up the tank gravel, wood, plants.. let it settle for day. Then take sponge from my old filter place it in the new fluval filter and straigh away place fish in the new 260 osaka tank? As i dont think fish will be happy living for few days with out their filter lol.

Yup...do exactly that and you should be just fine!

-FHM

 

[s007]

Guys need help here this is the fish that i would really like to have in my new tank ( please lte me know if they are compatible with each other (i dont want no fighting in my tank lol) and are they hard to look after or need specific requirements.

* Crdinal Tetra (this is a must for me)
* Discus (this is a must have for me too)
* Dwarf Gouramin
* Kuhli Loach
* Gouramis (they are pretty too)
* Pleco or some other cat fish like Dwarf Plecs (i also like Rineloricaria)
* Melanochromis (i know they are teretorial but will they be ok?)
* Nothobranchius
* Ram (Must have i love their colours)
* Celebs rainbowfish
* Chichilds

Any other suggestions are welcome! Im looking to have mostly carinals and Discus about 4 discus and 20 cardinals (will that be overstocking my tank 76 US gallons?)

Cheers

 

[rdd1952]

I'm not certain about interaction between some of the species but will say that I doubt the Melanochromis would work if for no other reason than the difference in pH preferences between discus and most Africans. I know that most species can adapt to a pH out of their optimal range but with cichlids preferring something in the low 6s to even in the 5s, that's a pretty big swing for an African. As far as the other cichlids, if you went with South Americans, depending on aggression of the species you pick, it might work.

The biggest issue with having the dicsus is that you need great water conditions. That really means overfiltration and a very good maintenance schedule. Any large waste producers (plecos for instance) make that more difficult.

 

[s007]

OK just to ask again (dont want to kill my fish better to be safe and double ask if you dont mind) My tank arrived tomorrow (i will post step by step pics if my setup for you to see hope ull like it ) Ill add gravel let it settle for abit, dechlorenate water and fill half way up, place deco and plants (thats if they arrive tomorrow) fill tank fully, switch on the heater and light, let gravel settle again for couple of hours, take sponge media from my old 44 liter tank and place it in to fluval 305 (ive ordered also FX5 as seen you can never overfilter tanks) switch it on with UV Sterelizer (will have it on for 4 hours a day just to prevent algie) do all water tests and if all good i can transfer my fish from 44 liter tank straight away to that new tank even tho the filter was only runing with matured sponge for 1 hour or so? If yest thats great.

Also do i start doing waterchanges weekly or at that stage more offten?

Cheers,
Serg

By the way anone knows where can i refill CO2 in London near NW5 postcode?