My Fish Less Cycle

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This is the frustrating part... It will fluctuate for a little. This is why generally the recommendation at the end of the cycle is to wait for a full week (at least 5 days) of solid zeros before adding the fish, whenever possible. There are a lot of factors working together in the tank, and things like this can happen. Why? I don't know, but they do. Perhaps the bacteria are building up a biofilm rather than processing ammonia/nitrite. Perhaps they are multiplying more and processing less. I don't know, but I do know that these "set-backs" are fairly common - that's why you focus on the overall trend rather than the individual data point. You are still processing ammonia and nitrite at a good level. Did the pH drop at all? That's certainly a potential reason for the bacteria to slow their process down a bit.
 
Hi

I didn't test pH this morning but will tonight. I hope to see everything at zero again tonight and will keep positive about tomorrow's test. I think it's just that I am so close and you think to yourself that you might be able to get some fish at the weekend and then BAM, nitrite not processed for the first time in ages and at least another 5 days before I can get fish.

That's the way it goes and I'm determined to do it right so ill just have to be patient.

David
 
It will pay off in the end.
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Hi

Her are today's results.

17/1:(8am): Ammonia: 0.50ppm, Nitrite: 0.50ppm.

17/1: (8pm): Ammonia 0.25ppm, Nitrite: 0, pH: 7.6-7.8. Added: 4.75ml Ammonia, 2nd test: Ammonia: 4.0ppm.

Glad, or perhaps more relieved, to see the nitrite drop back to zero. Isn't it strange that the ammonia has only dropped by 0.25ppm over the last 12 hours? Is it possible that the more ammonia present in the water, the more the bacteria will process? The reason I ask is that over the last couple of weeks I've noticed that if there is say 2.0ppm ammonia, the next test can often be 0.25 or 0.50ppm however, if I dose to a higher amount, say 4ppm, the next test seems more likely to be zero.

I tested a glass of tap water which I'd left out for 24 hours and it is 7.6-7.8 which is the same as the tank water.

I've spent a bit of time tonight making a conversion chart for the syringe I have from Kg to ML so this will help from now on.

Onward and upward.

David
 
Good stuff. :thumbsup:

Ultimately, the entire ammonia thing at 0.25ppm can be a few things. Sometimes it just seems to get "stuck" and sometimes it can be some sort of residual from previous tests. I wouldn't worry too much about it, honestly.


Dose at the higher level if you would like, since the nitrite is all the way down now. The AOB and NOB can keep on top of things. It may not hit zero in 12 hours the first day or two, but as long as it hits 0 in 24 hours, that's the key.
 
This mornings results surprised me.

18/1: (8am): Ammonia 0.25ppm, Nitrite: off the chart high

That was after adding 4ppm ammonia last night. I'm happy with the ammonia result but was shocked that the nitrite went so high. The last time it was like that was 10 days ago. Crazy.

David
 
A larger dose will produce a good amount more nitrite, so its not unusual. I'd like to see what it is in another 24 hours. I'd expect that you'll get double zeros. ;)
 
Tonight's results:

18/1: (8pm): ammonia: 0, Nitrite: 1.0ppm, added: 4.2ml, 2nd test: Ammonia: 2.0ppm.

I'm glad the nitrite has reduced significantly in the last 12 hours. I tried to dose back up to 4ppm. Yesterday I added 4.75ml to the tank when the ammonia was already at 0.25ppm and this rose the level to 4ppm. Tonight, the ammonia was zero and I added 4.2ml ammonia and the test showed 2.0ppm. If find it weird that the levels aren't consistent. Any thoughts?

I am thinking of adding plants to the tank on Monday. Do you think this will cause any problems?

Thanks,

David.
 
I think its just the difficulty in reading the results more than anything else. No worries. ;)


Be consistent in how much you add and the bacteria will work out the rest.


I've had success with a fishless cycle and plants - here's my suggestion. Get a TIMER for the lights, and have the lights go OFF just after you add the ammonia, and the bacteria can process the ammonia while the lights are off.... then have the lights come on for 6-8 hours before the dosing time (which is why you use the timer.) This will limit the time that there is ammonia and light so that you don't have to worry as much about algae build up with the lights and ammonia.
 
Hi

Here's today's:

19/1:(8am): Ammonia: 0.50ppm, Nitrite: off chart high.
19/1:(8pm): Ammonia: 0, Nitrite: 0. Added: 4.2ml Ammonia, 2nd test: Ammonia: 2.0ppm.

David
 
Its getting closer...
 
Hi

Today's were:

20/1:(8am): Ammonia 0, Nitrite: 2.0ppm (might have been more but 90% sure was about 2.0ppm)
20/1:(8pm): Ammonia: 0, Nitrite: 0, Added: 4.2ml Ammonia to 2.0ppm.

If I've read the nitrite correct this morning, it is very encouraging. Can't wait for tomorrow's test lol. I think that light aqua blue that shows a zero reading for nitrite might just be my new favourite colour :)

In other news, I'm having second thoughts about getting dwarf gourami's. Not sure why. I read lots of good things about them but lots of bad too. I have a copy of practical fishkeepers magazine which has a big section all about them but not read it yet. If I decide against it, and if I still go for a gourami, I have looked at honey and pearl. I may however look at another fish altogether. Any ideas on a 'centre piece'? I'd be looking for something that I could get 2 or 3 of.

I think the reason I keep chopping and changing my mind is the time I have during cycling to think about it. While it is a good time to research etc and be sure what you want and that its right for your set up, if my tank was cycled I would have dwarfs in it I'm sure (in reality of course I'm going to be stocking gradually so it would be a good number of weeks before the gouramis go in but you know what I mean).

David,
 
Yeah, I understand completely. I went through a similar process while I was cycling. ;-)


Others you could look into: Apistogramma spp. 1m:2-3f. Bolivian Rams, 1m:2-3f.
 
Hi

Today was:

21/1:(8am): Ammonia: 0, Nitrite: 2.0ppm
21/1:(8pm): Ammonia: 0, Nitrite: 0. Added: 4.2ml Ammonia to 2.0ppm.

That's 2 mornings in a row with the nitrite around 2.0ppm. I think it's just a matter of time.

I had a quick look at the 2 fish you mentioned, thanks. Not had a great deal of time to read up on them properly yet. The first one is a dwarf cichlids. Are the dwarves as aggressive as the regular cichlids? They are very nice. There seems to be many varieties. Would you recommend any particular one or are they all the same, behaviour wise?

The Bolivian ram looks good too. I'll get reading up ASAP. I was in a pets shop today with my partner buying stuff for our wee roborovski hamster. Needless to say, I soon disappeared to the aquatic section and she had to come looking for me :) . They had the dwarf gouramis and they are beautiful in my opinion, but you have given me something to think about with the cichlid. Before I decided on a community tank, cichlids were high on my list but I decided a variety of species was the way to go so this would almost be like a compromise.

EDIT: Just realised that the Bolivian ram is also a dwarf cichlid too.

David
 
Yes, they are both dwarf cichlids, and they are NOT aggressive.  The key is to LIMIT THE NUMBER OF MALES.  By adding 1M and 1F, or perhaps 2F in the case of the apistos, you don't have much to concern yourself with.  Rams generally form breeding pairs, whereas the apistos work where the male has a territory that encompasses multiple female territories.  The key is to offer each female some sort of "cave" dwelling and keep it out of direct sight of the other.
 
 
DGs are great looking, but are a bit sensitive.  I had one, but he died of "Dwarf Gourami Disease" about 6 months later.  I was upset.  He was beautiful, but I doubt I'll ever get another.
 

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