My First Test Results

[Harlequins]

Fish food would be good for now,just to keep the filter ticking over.
If you go to Boots or homebase,they sell household ammonia,'jeyes kleenoff' is a known brand,basically you need one that doesn't contain soap.most are 90% ammonia.shake the bottle if it bubbles then it wont be any good.dont breathe in the fumes though,or you'll know it

Use the calculator on the top of page,put your tank size in and it'll tell you how much ammonia to put in,(most aim for 5ppm on a do),this is aimed that when your tank has finished fishless cycling you can fully stock your tank within reason.

Once you add the ammonia(may be worth picking up a cheap syringe for dosing),test your water after 12 hours if ammonia is zero then add the same dose again.you only add ammonia if the ammonia test result is zero.
Has your already showing nitrite & nitrate you seem to be going in the right direction.

Waterchanges wont knock your fishless to much,maybe delay it for a few days,but it'll catch up again.

Have a read of the beginners section,theres a link under my signature pic,more info on fishless cycling

 

[chigwellhammer]

Okay thanks , Ill do a test later today and ill post the readings in here again.

 

[Ryefish]

Woah Woah Woah!!

It is going alright by the sounds of it. Atleast the ammonia has gone in 2 days.
The Biomature is a source of ammonia and is completely fine to do a fishless cycle with, its what i used to cycle mine with. You should only be adding the ammonia (BIOMATURE) on the 24th hour, not the 12th, even if its gone.

ETA: there is no need to do water changes just yet just because you have a reading of Nitrites. Thats the whole idea of the fish-less cycle. You should only do a water change if you are struggling in a nitrite spike or if your PH crashes and drops to around 6

 

[SlyPolak]

LOL .. YES.. AM=ammonia..NI=Nitrite..NA=nitrate...PH=ph.......faster/ easier to write letters

To cycle with fish or fishless you need a constant source of AM for the bacteria to produce and eat, then they turn AM into NI which then another kind of bacteria are formed and eat.. then I think NA is formed

but NA is not NEARLY as toxic as AM or NI... ANY HEALTHY tank has some NA but should have 0 AM or NI unless you are cycling .. thats why you wait for AM and NI to turn to 0 after 12 hrs for a week straight because thats when you know you have a sufficient amount of bacteria to support some fish,, then you gradually add because theres other bacteria that need to be colonized and matured after you needed water changes etc. to get rid of NA before its ready for fish/....


AGAIN RAMBLING... SORRY

read up on some cycling journals and you will see exactly what i mean

 

[chigwellhammer]

Okay well the water change has been done... im not going to name name's who told me to do this but its been done lol, Now ive filled the tank back up heater doing his job, filter is doing his job ive added a pinch of fish food and ill re do the tests when i get home from college about 3:30 - 4:00pm.



Jeeeeez why cant you just stick fish into water job done!

 

[Ryefish]

the water change will just dilute everything down, but it should recover quite fast.
my cycle is here: http://www.fishforums.net/index.php?/topic/323845-ryes-fishless-cycle/

cycled using YOUR bottle of Biomature there is nothing wrong at all with using it

 

[chigwellhammer]

Right okay thanks..... Ill post my Ammonia Results and Nitrite results up later today

 

[SlyPolak]

Okay well the water change has been done... im not going to name name's who told me to do this but its been done lol,

I didnt know you werte cycling
Thought you had fish and was about to kill them with nitrites!!!

SORRRYYYYY!!!!!!

 

[chigwellhammer]

I was joking lol, Dont worry!

 

[Ryefish]

I didnt know you werte cycling
Thought you had fish and was about to kill them with nitrites!!!

SORRRYYYYY!!!!!

not meaning to be rude, but you need to ask questions first before jumping in, assuming and giving the wrong advice

 

[SlyPolak]

Not to be rude but its not like I told him to clean his tank with bleach

and bottled bacteria is TRASH!!!

 

[chigwellhammer]

Wow.... i only wanted advice! even i know and im new to all this everyone has there own ways in doing things and i just want tips to help me

Anyway im off to college now, ill post my results up later about 4pm

Thanks for help guys much appreciated

 

[VaegaVic]

Not to be rude but its not like I told him to clean his tank with bleach

and bottled bacteria is TRASH!!!

Prove it, because no one else can.

 

[SlyPolak]

Not to be rude but its not like I told him to clean his tank with bleach

and bottled bacteria is TRASH!!!

Prove it, because no one else can.

PROVE that it works.. no one else can

P.S. Quick question.. how does bacteria that feeds on ammonia and such survive being stuck in a bottle without food for weeks.. maybe months at a time?
sounds like proof to me

 

[VaegaVic]

Not to be rude but its not like I told him to clean his tank with bleach

and bottled bacteria is TRASH!!!

Prove it, because no one else can.

PROVE that it works.. no one else can

P.S. Quick question.. how does bacteria that feeds on ammonia and such survive being stuck in a bottle without food for weeks.. maybe months at a time?
sounds like proof to me

That was my point, if we COULD prove that they didn't work then we could challenge the companies that make them. Since we can't prove it, one way or another, the market is still saturated with these products.
For example,
You've got a bottle of Nutrafin Cycle, it's been sitting there in your draw (or cupboard) for 6 months, you know it's all dead.
You add it to a cycling tank, the entire bottle.
Now prove that (now the cycle has completed), the Nutrafin didn't at least speed the cycle up, perhaps not make it instantly safe, but speed it up.

Also, just as a side point, the bacteria in bottles are normally heterotrophic bacteria from the genera Bacillus, Pseudomonas, Escherichia, etc, where as the bacteria we want is Autotrophic, Nitrobacteraceae.