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Leaking Fluval 305

leah2296

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Hi all, 
 
I had some problems with my HOB filter but then with help from people on this forum, I was able to fix it. (Thank you!)
 
Then, my Fluval 305 canister filter started leaking! It caused some floor/ basement ceiling damage and now we have to do some re-drywalling. I do not want to go through that again!
 
I assumed that the problem was that I hadn't closed the lid of the Fluval properly, but when I took it apart and put it back together again it was still leaking. Closer examination showed that it was coming from the clips so I think the o-ring needs replacing. I went out to my LFS to see about getting one and on impulse bought a Marineland C-360 that was on a Boxing Day sale.
 
Now I am rethinking this decision and wondering if I should just go for the $4 fix of replacing the Fluval o-ring. Here are my options:
1) Keep the Fluval 305 and replace the o-ring. Fluval is about 4/5 years old. Return the Marineland C-360 for store credit. But what's the life expectancy of a Fluval 305 anyway?
2) Ditch the Fluval 305 and use the Marineland C-360. C-360 is new, and bigger which means I could upgrade to a larger tank in a couple years. It's also better quality than the Fluval.
3) The store also had an Eheim 2075 and a RENA canister on sale. I know everyone here recommends Eheim but it was way more expensive and while the Eheim Classics have great reviews, the 2075 has MANY reviews about it leaking, so the hubby totally vetoed it (he's the one that is replacing the drywall now). I could exchange the C-360 for the RENA though, but it's a bit more expensive.
 
Thoughts?
 
Thanks in advance!
 
 

KirkyArcher

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I'd get a new "O" ring, I know over the pond Fluval advise to lubricate these regularly with vaseline, but petroleum products actually contribute to degrading the rubber the seal is made of and when they go you'll get a leaking filter (as you've unfortunately experienced), Over here in the UK Silicon based lubricants are recommended as they don't have these degrading properties, also need to do regular check to ensure integrity and possible "crushing" if the lid has inadvertently been misaligned when refitting
 

Blubble37

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would you be able to provide a brief specifications list for both?
 
i'd personally go for the o-ring and use sillicon grease as kirky suggests, if it solves it, you can return the other filter and get money back, if it doesn't fix it.. well, you haven't really lost all too much money, maybe a cup of coffee's worth
 
i've never heard of the other brand before, but i know fluval are pretty reliable
 
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leah2296

leah2296

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My tank is 65g. It also has an Aqueon Quietflow 55 (HOB filter) running on it. I am thinking about upgrading to a 75g or 90g in 2 years when we move again. There's a heavy bioload since it is stocked with African Cichlids.
Specs of the filters in question:
 
Marineland C-360:
  • Recommended for tanks up to 100 gallon
  • Flow rate 360 GPH
Fluval 305:
  • Recommended for tanks up to 70 gallon
  • Flow rate 260 GPH
Is it worth keeping the C-360 now or maybe I should just upgrade the filter when I upgrade the tank? 
 
O-ring is in the mail but it will take 10 days... in the meantime it's just the Aqueon 55 running which is insufficient.

ps - I am pretty sure Marineland is Tetra in the UK
 

Blubble37

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leah2296 said:
My tank is 65g. It also has an Aqueon Quietflow 55 (HOB filter) running on it. I am thinking about upgrading to a 75g or 90g in 2 years when we move again. There's a heavy bioload since it is stocked with African Cichlids.
Specs of the filters in question:
 
Marineland C-360:
  • Recommended for tanks up to 100 gallon
  • Flow rate 360 GPH
Fluval 305:
  • Recommended for tanks up to 70 gallon
  • Flow rate 260 GPH
Is it worth keeping the C-360 now or maybe I should just upgrade the filter when I upgrade the tank? 
 
O-ring is in the mail but it will take 10 days... in the meantime it's just the Aqueon 55 running which is insufficient.
then there's a bit of a stick.. if the aqueon is insufficient, you could try bodging a o-ring out of rubber bands, or resort to the c360 to keep the media alive and  give sufficient filtration.
 
try the rubber bands first, if that fails, then there isnt much other choice really
 
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leah2296

leah2296

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Just did more research... it looks like the problem is with the Eheim Pros but the classics are still great. Think I am going to head back to the store to exchange the C360 for an Eheim 2217. They don't leak very often, do they? I really hope not.
 

Blubble37

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eheim are a well known brand and their products are generally well-made
 
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leah2296

leah2296

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Ok, got the eheim classic (2217).. now how do I still use the bacteria from the fluval since I can't run them both (since fluval is leaking) - should I just put the media in the tank or cram some of it into the HOB?
 
thanks!
 
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