Large water changes

I didn't catch what species are residing in the tank. Some may be sensitive to such a large scale water change, while others won't mind it a bit. For instance I never hesitated to change 1/2 the tank volume on my Mbuna tanks, yet I wouldn't consider any more than 1/5 for Tanganyikan cave spawners. In the case of the latter, I would do several smaller renewals with a brief rest time between. As far as adding dechlor, I always just added it directly to the tank, even though I used inline sediment and activated carbon filters in my water supply.
 
when i used buckets to do water changes, i would put dechlorinator in the bucket...

with the python, i add it in the tank before i fill it up
 
I use Stress Coat. Their directions say to use 1 tsp per 10 gallon for dechlorination or 1 tsp per 5 gallon to aid with stress. I use the 1 to 5 ration during water changes since it is stressful to some fish. I add half before I start my python and the other half after which means that I am technically adding the prescribed dosage for dechlorination both before and after the water goes it. Have been doing that for 4 or 5 months with no problems.
 
These are all really interesting replies. Basically, if I'm changing water in smaller tanks, I draw the water the night before and dechlorinate it, then areate and heat it overnight and do changes next day. However, in a big tank which needs a big change, I don't think cold water has much effect in the summer if it is dechlorinated. I have read that in the cold weather, you should not add freshly drawn water but should aerate it overnight. Anyway, ramblings over, my fish are fine for a big water change. Nitrites nil and I've just added the first dose of maracyn-2 for my blistered plec. Eeek, 18 tablets for the first day then 9 tablets for the next 4 days. Loads-a-money.
 
glolite said:
I have read that in the cold weather, you should not add freshly drawn water but should aerate it overnight.
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I'm not sure what the reason behind that would be. I know that letting water sit and aerating it will remove chlorine but not chloramine. You should be able to take water straight from the tap, add dechlorinator and put it in the tank. Just adjust the water temp from the tap to closely match the tank temp. Just let it run 30 seconds to a minute before starting to fill the bucket to clear the pipes. I always add straight from the tap.
 
glolite said:
I have read that in the cold weather, you should not add freshly drawn water but should aerate it overnight.
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I think the recommendation stems from the fact that cold, pressurized water may have a higher than usual oxygen content, thus a higher pH. The aeration would help degas the water and and allow the pH to stabilize. I've also noticed that many minute gas bubbles will sometimes "stick" to the fishes' slime coat. Despite living in area with cold winters, I haven't seen any ill effects of adding the replacement water directly to the tank, as long as it is exactly the same temperature as the existing tank water. I suppose the pH issue could easily be quantified with a quick test kit to warrant whether any special treatment was needed. Of course this information is only for those aquaria where parameters are similar to tap water.
 

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