How Do You Get Rid Of Ammonia?

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Probably an obvious question solved by a big water change but ^^^ my ammonia is 0.8 mgl and that is to high for me because I don't know how it got like that way (I cycled the tank,no rotting vegitation,admittadly a few deaths due to my filter and 3 weak guppys and I do weekly water changes)



thanks



chris :hyper:
 
Do water changes until the filter bacteria colony grows enough members to process the extra ammonia. Virtually everything else is a band-aid.

You may want to look through these other articles I've posted:

http://www.fishforums.net/index.php?/topic/226664-why-water-changes-during-cycling-are-good
http://www.fishforums.net/index.php?/topic/154313-of-toxic-ammonia-charts
 
ok thanks for the links :good: I just tested the ammonia again,thank goodness I must of done the test wrong because I tested again and it turns out i only have 0.1mgl still to big for my liking but better than 0.8
 
what test are you using? strip tests apparently arent accurate and liquid tests are much better. get API freshwater test kit, its what almost everyone here uses.
 
I have the interpet liquid master kit,It's quite reliable usealy,I just forgot to rinse the vial after I used it last time.What type of liquid test kit is good? the tablets,or the drops?
 
nay urs is fine, if you didnt follow instructions then thats what probably threw u off.

and if the ppm is 1 it is WAY to high, it needs to be >.125 to be considered remotely safe for fish. and .25 is just shy of a water change.
 
:blink: what?! are you sure? because on the box it is like the second best conditions next to 0 mgl
 
apparently 1 mgl=1ppm that's what it says on wiki answers and a few other links I found on good ol google :good: I don't know much about water chemistry so don't blame if i'm wrong,but am i or google right?


EDIT: K holed,I'm aware that somthing is wrong in the tank but I'm mostly worried about the gill and other organ dammage at the moment.
 
I think 0.1mg/l is 1ppm

This is incorrect.

Short answer: for darn near every single instance that is important to fishkeepers, 1 ppm is equal to 1 mg/L.

Long answer: A ppm is a like divided like quantity. 1 mL of fluid A in 1000L of a different fluid B is 1 ppm of A by volume. 1 mg of substance A in 1 kg (=1000 g) of substance B is 1 ppm of A by mass. There are the two most common in physical quantities, and you will see both ppm by volume and ppm by mass in chemistry frequently.

An example used by quality control professionals would be if a a company is manufacturing 1 million widgets a day and 9 of them fail the quality standards, you will sometimes see the quality reported at 9 ppm quality failure rate. For ppm (and the similar ppt, parts per thousand, ppb, parts per billion (though be careful on a forum like this to mention whether it is American or British billion), pph, parts per hundred better known as percent) it doesn't matter what the measurement is, but both the numerator and denominator have to have the same unit.

So, now we look at 1 mg/L. That actually has two different types of measurements in the numerator and denominator. The numerator is mass (mg) and the denominator is volume (L). So, how is that a ppm? Well, you can use a liquid's density to convert the mass to a volume measurement.

For example, liquid ammonia at 25 deg C has a density of approximately 0.606 g/cm^3 ( see http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ammonia_%28data_page%29 ). 1 cm^3 is the same as 1 mL. So, let's say that there is 100 mg of ammonia in your 100 L tank, which would of course be a concentration of 1 mg/L. 100 mg = 0.1 g. 0.1g * (1 mL / 0.606 g) = 0.165 mL This is the volume of ammonia in your 100 L tank in this example. Doing the division, and this actually turns into 1.65 ppm by volume of ammonia in the water.

That actually looks like a significant difference. However, the final piece of the puzzle is that ammonia and water don't just remain in their pure-component densities when mixed. That is, they don't just mix linearly. I.e. the density of a mixture that is 10% ammonia and 90% water is not equal to 0.1*(density of pure ammonia) + 0.9*(density of pure water). At very small concentrations, the density of ammonia in a mixture of water is very, very close to the density of the water itself.

And that's the real trick. In liquid, when there is only a very, very small amount of a substance, it typically takes on the properties of what it is dissolved in. So, essentially, the liquid ammonia has a density of 1.00 g/cm^3, the density of pure water at 25 deg C.

So, when there is only a tony amount of something dissolved in water, a mg/L is the same as a ppm by vol.

So finally, that is why I wrote above that for any value of any significance to fishkeepers, a mg/L is the same as a ppm. Fishkeeping may get up to a few 100 ppm when measuring nitrates, for example, but usually not more than that. 100 ppm is still a very small amount. To put into more familiar terms 100 ppm = 0.1 ppt = 0.01 pph = 0.01%. Very tiny. ppm only loses meaning when you start getting very high. For example, a 50/50 mixture would technically be 500,000 ppm. At that point, a mg/L and a ppm would not be the same any more.
 
yeah i know things should be 0 but ince somethings happening im advising him to keep it at or below the level to helpprevent fish loss
 
ok thanks for the links :good: I just tested the ammonia again,thank goodness I must of done the test wrong because I tested again and it turns out i only have 0.1mgl still to big for my liking but better than 0.8
Might test to see if ammonia is present in tapwater if tapwater is being used for changes. would aslo use conditioner such as prime if not already.
 

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