Homebase Household Ammonia Problem?

[waterdrop]

It also doesn't matter that you had to do a water change right after starting. In the first few days after starting you just want some ammonia exposure to the few bacteria that will be in the water. Doing a water change early on will not really be a setback as there are few biofilm structures in the filter at this point and its unlikely any tiny beginning colonies will be disturbed. As said, you do want to get your concentration down in right ranger (anywhere in 3ppm to 5ppm or close to that will be fine at this stage.)

~~waterdrop~~

 

[Liverbird36]

It also doesn't matter that you had to do a water change right after starting. In the first few days after starting you just want some ammonia exposure to the few bacteria that will be in the water. Doing a water change early on will not really be a setback as there are few biofilm structures in the filter at this point and its unlikely any tiny beginning colonies will be disturbed. As said, you do want to get your concentration down in right ranger (anywhere in 3ppm to 5ppm or close to that will be fine at this stage.)

~~waterdrop~~

Thanks waterdrop, that's reassuring to know. I had the tank set up and running for 6 days, had the Bacterial Bloom around day 3; Used Filter Start every other day and decided today against the idea of the fish in cycling and to try the Ammonia way instead. I did a Dip strip test in the morning which showed all levels to be spot on although was a bit confused at the time as the strip indicated that the Nitrites were zero but that the Nitrates were at 25. Thinking the levels a bit off read on here about the API Master test so bought one today and before I started with the Ammonia Cycling, I did an Ammonia test to check base levels. The test, which I was expecting to be zero, came out at about 4ppm. Not sure if that is normal or not or how it came to be that level. I am guessing that even though I have had to change the water, that over the six days the bio filter has been able to build up a few bacteria at least. It is rather slimy but again i'm guessing that's good. Was thrown a bit by the readings but that could be due to the test strips I used, not sure how accurate they are.

 

[waterdrop]

OK, well its clear that its a good thing you now have your API kit. The household ammonia sounds like its an OK type and so you now have the two things you'll need. I think we need you to give us a set of test results (ammonia, nitrite(NO2), pH, nitrate(NO3)) for your tap water and then the same for your current tank water. What is the tank volume again?

We also need to review the manufacturer and model of filter and exactly what types of media you have inside it. Its good to be sure that is right before a fishless cycled gets started. The members are good at knowing what types of media would be ideal.

Once we know the filter media is right then it will be tiime to start a new thread where your fishless cycling process will be documented (you also want to have an "aquarium notebook" at home in your aquarium room so you can keep more personal notes and have a long running record of everything that happens to your tank each day.) In your "fishless cycling" thread its good to re-state all your baseline information (tank size, tank particulars, filter particulars, test kit, ammonia type, any other things in the tank etc.) at the top and then to begin a daily log with daily lines something like this:
Day X, Temperature, Ammonia result, Nitrite(NO2) result, pH, Nitrate result, (was more ammonia added?), observations etc.
(Not all items will be needed each day.)

~~waterdrop~~

 

[Liverbird36]

Hi waterdrop, I have a 64 litre interpet tank. It came with an Interpet bio media filter, the bio media is some type of ceramic looking rings, carbon filter pad and a course and fine filter pad on other side. Temp is running at 24 degrees and the filter also houses an oxygenating pump. The test results for tap water are Ammonia 0ppm, Nitrite 0ppm, and Nitrate 0ppm. The results for the tank water are Ammonia 0.5ppm (could be as a result of over-use of Ammonia today and had to do a large water change as a result) Nitrite 0ppm and Nitrate 0ppm. Hope I haven't upset things to much by having to change water but the Ammonia was so bad and just wouldn't clear so thought it the best option.

 

[waterdrop]

OK, the carbon pad isn't really needed, so if you can find another pad or loose biomedia (many of the best types of loose biomedia are pieces of sintered glass/ceramic shaped as small balls or gravel. The heat process creates cracks in them that are the right size for autotrophic bacteria to get a good hold and start their biofilm formations. Have a look at the media shelf in your LFS and see what you can find.

Meanwhile it won't hurt to continue fishless cycling the filter the way it is. You need to re-charge the ammonia back up to about 4ppm (as measured by your API kit about 20 minutes after you add the additional dose so it can mix) since you diluted the ammonia when you changed water. You also need to raise your tank temperature to 84F/29C, which is about the optimal temperature for growing these two species of bacteria.

~~waterdrop~~

 

[Liverbird36]

OK, the carbon pad isn't really needed, so if you can find another pad or loose biomedia (many of the best types of loose biomedia are pieces of sintered glass/ceramic shaped as small balls or gravel. The heat process creates cracks in them that are the right size for autotrophic bacteria to get a good hold and start their biofilm formations. Have a look at the media shelf in your LFS and see what you can find.

Meanwhile it won't hurt to continue fishless cycling the filter the way it is. You need to re-charge the ammonia back up to about 4ppm (as measured by your API kit about 20 minutes after you add the additional dose so it can mix) since you diluted the ammonia when you changed water. You also need to raise your tank temperature to 84F/29C, which is about the optimal temperature for growing these two species of bacteria.

~~waterdrop~~

have seen some bio media by Fluval that looks similair to what you have mentioned is this any good do you know ?? Also, do I need to wait a couple of days to re-start the cycling or can it be started again right away ??

 

[waterdrop]

Oh no, you can redose your ammonia right away, no need to wait or waste time. You've got a few bacteria in there anytime tap water is in there and you have surfaces in your filter (they'll grow on just about anything!) and so you want some ammonia in there so they'll get started. It doesn't matter if you end up pulling the carbon out and putting something else in, the surfaces you leave in there will be beginning to get some tiny bacterial colonies forming on them.

Yes, fluval, eheim, seachem, lots of people make ceramic/glass biomedia that sounds like it could work in the empty spot you will create. A sponge (meant for a filter) would also be fine if somehow you had the right size.

~~waterdrop~~

 

[Liverbird36]

Sorry to be a pain but do I put the new medie where the Carbon pad was, or remove the bio media I currently have and replace it there ??

 

[waterdrop]

gotta run.. let's find someone who knows that specific filter though!