Help reading my ammonia measurements

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JSmith14

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I just started official cycle, on a 20 gallon Using Dr. Timā€™s, and no bacteria. I read through the instructions on the form and it all seem to make sense but the doctor Timā€™s dosage recommended 4 drops per gallon to get to 2 ppm. I just assume to get to 3 ppm I would do six drops per gallon, I estimated 17 gallons per the 85% recommendation.

When I ran the ammonia test, it seems to be reading way higher than what it shouldā€™ve been based on my calculations. I was looking around for some help and it seem to be like people would suggest posting pictures on here to help with the readings. Iā€™m using the API freshwater master test kit which doesnā€™t expire until August 2025. Iā€™ve attached a couple pictures but depending on what light I have it in I really donā€™t know how much of a water change to do to get it back down to 3 ppm, I do believe it is reading high though.

I really appreciate any Help and insight folks may be able to provide. Thank you.
 

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Welcome to the forum.

WAY too much ammonia.
 
Never seen it that colour before.. wow..
80% water change maybe.. not sure tbh
 
So I can do a total water change if that is the best approach, but Iā€™m at a loss for how much for Dr Timā€™s should I add? I guess I could just do what the bottle says and go for 2 ppm, I just wanted to try and follow the 3 ppm approach on here. Clearly my math was wrong.
 
So I can do a total water change if that is the best approach, but Iā€™m at a loss for how much for Dr Timā€™s should I add? I guess I could just do what the bottle says and go for 2 ppm, I just wanted to try and follow the 3 ppm approach on here. Clearly my math was wrong.
I've never used that product but I know it's good.

If it was me I'd do a huge water change, check levels again some time afterwards.

Probably best to start again and follow instructions exactly.
 
So I can do a total water change if that is the best approach, but Iā€™m at a loss for how much for Dr Timā€™s should I add? I guess I could just do what the bottle says and go for 2 ppm, I just wanted to try and follow the 3 ppm approach on here. Clearly my math was wrong.
Do you have an Ace Hardware nearby? They sell pure ammonia, with no additives, very inexpensive.
I could advise you on that, but no experience with the Dr. Tims.

That being said, I would do nearly a 100% water change...if you HAVE to use the DT, I would add a wee bit, test, add a bit, test, until you reach your 3 PPM threshold.
 
No ace, but there are hardware stores around so I should be able to get it. How much of that would I add? I recall the calculator from the instructions on here listed as % of ammonia in the solution. It is default to 9%, do I change that to 100% in the calculator if I get the pure ammonia like your suggesting?
 
No, not 100%...the Ace ammonia is 10% ammonium hydroxide...we'll need to know the % of whatever ammonia you find, unless someone can help us with the Tim's...
 
Just follow the guide using pure household ammonia - I would try a grocery store - they are actually more likely to carry ammonia without any additives. If he's just cycling his tank the ammonia reading SHOULD be very high but having never seen a reading like that either I would also start over. It's been so long since I've had to cycle a tank is 3 ppm the appropriate starting value? I know the first time i cycled a tank I started with exactly the amount of ammonia the classic instructions told me too and adjusted for the size of my tank and all was well.

You know if you are going to go through the whole cycling process - this high level of ammonia will eventually be eaten up and converted to nitrites eventually - just depends on how long you want to wait. So 50-100% water change then start using regular household ammonia with no soaps - easy to find (it will be on the bottom shelf of whatever store you go to hardly anybody uses pure ammonia to clean any more. Then I'd say if you want to - throw in a whole bottle of bacterial. Your tank will likely cycle very fast. Just make sure that when it's done to feed it some more bacteria before you get any fish - or just get 1 or 2 fish to make sure you have enough bacteria to handle the load. People mistakenly go out and try to fill their whole tanks and they may be cycled but lack ENOUGH bacteria for all those fish.

You'll get it. Just start over and recalculate.
 
Ok, got a jug of pure ammonia at Kroger, headed to drain the tank now. I looked at the back and it just says ammonium hydroxide, so I will assume the 10% as mentioned earlier. Thanks!
 
Add the ammonia then test the water after half an hour to let the ammonia mix in thoroughly. If it's too high, do a water change to get it down. If it's not high enough, add a bit more. But make a note of how much you add in total.
 
Thanks everyone for the help, I did a full water change and added the pure ammonia. It seems to be lower than 10%, maybe closer to 5. I added 3 ml and am somewhere between 2 and 3 ppm, which I figured was good enough given where I was at!
 
When I ran the ammonia test, it seems to be reading way higher than what it shouldā€™ve been based on my calculations. I was looking around for some help and it seem to be like people would suggest posting pictures on here to help with the readings. Iā€™m using the API freshwater master test kit which doesnā€™t expire until August 2025. Iā€™ve attached a couple pictures but depending on what light I have it in I really donā€™t know how much of a water change to do to get it back down to 3 ppm, I do believe it is reading high though.
ewww, pretty colours
do a big water change to bring the levels down.
 
Ok so 10 days in no changes at all, maybe a slight drop in ammonia. It is right around 2 ppm. No nitrites or nitrates at all on my api test kit. Ph is right at 7, Gh is 180 ppm, Kh is around 100 ppm. Temperature of the tank is at 80.
Not sure where to go from here, said to ask for help if no readings 10 days in (3rd) reading.
Thanks for any help folks can provide on what to do.
 

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