Help! Nitrate 160 ppm!

So I tested my water today and it said nitrate is at 160ppm
Ammonia 0 ppm
Nitrite 0 ppm
PH 8.8
Is cause i did the test during feeding time. My fish and inverts are fine.
How many fish and what kind are in the tank? How long has it been up? Don't over feed your fish. Skip a day or two every week. It won't hurt them at all. 3 gals every week isn't good enough. If the tank water is good I would do 8or 9 gals every week. But to bring the nitrates down 15 gals twice a week should bring it down. Clean the filter. Remember big fish, lots of waste. Overcrowding, sickness.
 
For what it's worth, a 10% water change is almost the same amount of work as a 50% change. Same time dragging out tools, setting up, dechlorinating, etc. Only difference is the water takes maybe 5 minutes extra to drain and 5 minutes extra to refill... during that time, you're not actually doing anything except maybe vacuuming. WHY do all that extra work each day?
 
It may help to think of nitrate levels like air conditions for humans. 0 ppm is like us breathing medical-grade oxygen, 10ppm is like being outside on a nice day, 20ppm is like being indoors, 30ppm is like being in a room with a smoker, 40ppm is like walking into a crowded smoke-filled bar, 50ppm is like a grease fire smoking up your kitchen. For your fish, 160ppm is more like sucking on the tailpipe of an oil-burning car while the rest of the garage is on fire. Even a 90% water change won't stress them out the way you're stressing them out now.
 
Btw should I get a gravel vacuum, I heard that could help

Yes, generally. If the substrate has open areas, and is gravel, it is advisable to clean into these at each weekly water change. With sand sometimes not. With live plants, probably less, but gravel in open areas should still usually be cleaned.
 
Yes, generally. If the substrate has open areas, and is gravel, it is advisable to clean into these at each weekly water change. With sand sometimes not. With live plants, probably less, but gravel in open areas should still usually be cleaned.
I will get a gravel vacuum then even though i got sand and live plants in the tank. Also Should I check nitrates yet or when should I?
 
I will get a gravel vacuum then even though i got sand and live plants in the tank. Also Should I check nitrates yet or when should I?

Test nitrate after the water change, then the next day, and the day following that. If you detect any rise, obviously more needs to be done. More may need to be done anyway, depending upon the number. Nitrate below 20 ppm is the goal, and as low as possible but certainly not 20ppm or higher. Once this is achieved, testing nitrate prior to the weekly water change is advisable, each week until you can be confident that nitrtate is "x" from week to week with no increase, and assuming "x" is below 20 ppm.
 
I haven't done a water change in months. 5x2 salt water predator tank with a 4 foot sump. Protein skimmer and diy algae scrubber.
No complaints from my lionfish, stone fish and eel.
Tests show zero nitrates.
 
Guys the nitrates somehow high spiked again even though I did a huge water change not long ago, under fed my Fish ( skipped tons of feeding times and fed a lot less ). I personally think its problems with the test kit, What do you guys think. BTW Im planning to go to the pet store and get my water tested there.
 
Guys the nitrates somehow high spiked again even though I did a huge water change not long ago, under fed my Fish ( skipped tons of feeding times and fed a lot less ). I personally think its problems with the test kit, What do you guys think. BTW Im planning to go to the pet store and get my water tested there.

This is a reason for this, but we need to know the data in order to sort it out. Exactly how long ago was the water change you mention, and what was the volume?

The test is a possible issue. Is this the API liquid nitrate test? If yes, you need to shake the Regent #2 bottle for a good two minutes before you add the drops to the test tube. Instructions for both regents say 30 seconds if memory serves me, but Regent #2 must have 2 miniutes of agitation before using it. This can cause higher than accurate readings.
 
Check the tank for nitrites too because if you have a nitrite reading, the nitrate test kit will read nitrite as nitrate and give you a false reading.

Get a bottle of distilled water and test that for ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, pH and GH. It should have 0 ammonia, 0 nitrite, 0 nitrate, a pH of 7.0 and 0 GH.

Check your tap water for ammonia, nitrite and nitrate. If your tap water has nitrates in then the tank will have nitrates.
 
This is a reason for this, but we need to know the data in order to sort it out. Exactly how long ago was the water change you mention, and what was the volume?

The test is a possible issue. Is this the API liquid nitrate test? If yes, you need to shake the Regent #2 bottle for a good two minutes before you add the drops to the test tube. Instructions for both regents say 30 seconds if memory serves me, but Regent #2 must have 2 miniutes of agitation before using it. This can cause higher than accurate readings.
about 5 days ago and will do what you say
 
Check the tank for nitrites too because if you have a nitrite reading, the nitrate test kit will read nitrite as nitrate and give you a false reading.

Get a bottle of distilled water and test that for ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, pH and GH. It should have 0 ammonia, 0 nitrite, 0 nitrate, a pH of 7.0 and 0 GH.

Check your tap water for ammonia, nitrite and nitrate. If your tap water has nitrates in then the tank will have nitrates.
will do
 
Buy the Salifert nitrate test kit. It is MUCH easier to use and is more accurate imho.
 

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