Help!? High Nitrite

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Ace_Of_Fades

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The other day I noticed Henry (my betta) had a a whitish fog over one of his eyes, he wasn't eating and was lazy. I looked it up and it appeared to be due to poor water conditions, to treat it I had to remove him from the community tank and put him in his persoanl tank and start doing 100% water changes every day. That was three days ago, now he's a little pig and can't stop eating, he also got exited to see me today and I noticed his eye was clearing up!
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After seeing this I ran to the store and bought a water testing kit for every level I could find. The ammonia, nitrate, hardness, alkalinity and PH were all good in my community tank. However the nitrite was extremely high, like dangerously high. I don't understand why considering I just changed the water like 5 days ago and I tested my tap water and the nitrite levels were fine. Where are these nitrite levels coming from and what can I do to keep them lower?
 
is there a chance there's a dead fish in there rotting away or plants rotting? Also, what type of test are you using? If you are using dip strips then you'll find these to be seriously inaccurate. I'd recommend replacing for a liquid drop test kit if that is the case.
 
Just to be on the safe side a water change wont hurt.
 
Akasha72 said:
is there a chance there's a dead fish in there rotting away or plants rotting? Also, what type of test are you using? If you are using dip strips then you'll find these to be seriously inaccurate. I'd recommend replacing for a liquid drop test kit if that is the case.
 
NickAu said:
Just to be on the safe side a water change wont hurt.
 
No there's no dead fish, they're all acounted for xD But yes, I'm using the dip strips. How do the liquid drop ones work? I'll have to pick some up. Thanks Nick :) I did just under a 50% water change and the nitrite seems to be lower. Do you think a 25% water change evey day would be a bad idea?
 
Ace_Of_Fades said:
 
is there a chance there's a dead fish in there rotting away or plants rotting? Also, what type of test are you using? If you are using dip strips then you'll find these to be seriously inaccurate. I'd recommend replacing for a liquid drop test kit if that is the case.
 
NickAu said:
Just to be on the safe side a water change wont hurt.
 
No there's no dead fish, they're all acounted for xD But yes, I'm using the dip strips. How do the liquid drop ones work? I'll have to pick some up. Thanks Nick
smile.png
I did just under a 50% water change and the nitrite seems to be lower. Do you think a 25% water change evey day would be a bad idea?
 
 
You dip out a measured amount of water and add drops and shake.  Then you wait.  It is very easy.  I have a question...what kind of bio filtration do you have?  Do you have just a hang on back filter with one of those cartridges with carbon in it?  
 
Vethian said:
You dip out a measured amount of water and add drops and shake.  Then you wait.  It is very easy.  I have a question...what kind of bio filtration do you have?  Do you have just a hang on back filter with one of those cartridges with carbon in it?  
 
I'm definitely gonna go grab some drop test kits when I get off work then, they sound like they do a better job. And yes lol, I've been reading up on filters and I'm thinking of tossing out my current one since it was so cheap and getting a sponge filter instead.
 
Sponge filters are great, I use them in all my tanks.
 
I'd recommend the API Master kit as a drop test. It has everything you will need for now :)
 
okay, just read on your other topic that you'd prefer replies here. Perhaps a moderator could move some of the info over so it makes sense? Anyway ...
 
yes, cories need to be on sand as gravel damages their delicate mouths - that's in simple terms. More complicated terms would be that it wears down their barbels meaning that they can then struggle to feed. 
They're also better on sand as they like to sift through in their search for food. There's nothing more fun than watching a cory burying it's head in the sand cos it's found something to eat. Cories are the cutest fish and probably my favourites.
 
Okay onto the media - ceramics are much better than carbon. Carbon only has one main use - to remove medication from the tank. It can help with removing the tank smell but in my opinion - if you don't like that musty, composty smell that comes from a cycled tank you're in the wrong hobby lol
Ceramic noodles and balls can hold a lot of good bacteria and I'd recommend ceramics over carbon every day of the week :) 
 
Hopefully that answers your questions :)
 
Couldn't have answered it better, thanks a ton for the information. I've learned so much today, can't wait to get my tank in proper condition. I swear I've become obsessed with my my fish.
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Ace_Of_Fades said:
 I swear I've become obsessed with my my fish.
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next stage is MTS (Multi Tank Syndrome)  ;)
 
So, I've been doing %25 water changes daily. The nitrate levels are starting to rise a bit but I'm still getting a little nitrites with close to none ammonia. How long does fish in cycling take on average? It's alot of work and I wanna be done with it!
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There is no universal answer to the question of how long a cycle takes. Whether it is done with or without fish, it should take the same amount of time. the difference is when done fishlessly the tank is cycled for a full load of fish. When done fish in, a gradual stocking is required so the the cycle goes in stages. However, the initial stage should take the same amount of time as a full fishless cycle- 5-6 weeks.
 
There is little one can do to deal with ammonia in a tank besides changing water. However, for nitrite it is possible to deal with it by adding chloride to a tank which will block the nitrite from entering fish. This can be done using plain old salt which is about 2/3 chloride (salt is sodium chloride). There are directions for how to do this in this article on the site http://www.fishforums.net/index.php?/topic/433778-rescuing-a-fish-in-cycle-gone-wild-part-il/
 
The amount of salt needed is very small and is not a concern for almost any fw fish due to the small amount involved and the amount of time it needs to be in the tank. However, the amount of salt needed is based on the level of nitrite. If the nitrite rises, more chloride is required. If you need any help with this, you can shoot me a site PM and I am happy to help.
 
TwoTankAmin said:
There is no universal answer to the question of how long a cycle takes. Whether it is done with or without fish, it should take the same amount of time. the difference is when done fishlessly the tank is cycled for a full load of fish. When done fish in, a gradual stocking is required so the the cycle goes in stages. However, the initial stage should take the same amount of time as a full fishless cycle- 5-6 weeks.
 
There is little one can do to deal with ammonia in a tank besides changing water. However, for nitrite it is possible to deal with it by adding chloride to a tank which will block the nitrite from entering fish. This can be done using plain old salt which is about 2/3 chloride (salt is sodium chloride). There are directions for how to do this in this article on the site http://www.fishforums.net/index.php?/topic/433778-rescuing-a-fish-in-cycle-gone-wild-part-il/
 
The amount of salt needed is very small and is not a concern for almost any fw fish due to the small amount involved and the amount of time it needs to be in the tank. However, the amount of salt needed is based on the level of nitrite. If the nitrite rises, more chloride is required. If you need any help with this, you can shoot me a site PM and I am happy to help.
 
Very helpful information, wish I would have read it 5 weeks ago lol. I have some amazing news though!! It's been two days since I've done a water change and I did a water test today and I haven't gotten results like this before! I think my tank is finally cycled, or at least very close to being so!! Gaaahh I'm so happy!
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EDIT : Before someone tells me that two days isn't a long enough time to tell, keep in mind I have 9 fish in my tank. (None have died)
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You are definitely heading in the right direction, and are close.  You are truly cycled when you go a full 7 days without a reading of ammonia or nitrite... and then you do your regular 'maintenance' water change... which should be between 25-50%.
 

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