timpetty
Fish Crazy
I would definately put some sort of screen or attachment over the drainage side so it doesnt get blocked. If it does your return pump will overflow the display.
Finally Ready To Set Up My 55-gallon Saltwater Tank
- Thread starter eschaton
- Start date
eschaton
Fishaholic
Alright, I know this is a low traffic subforum, but I think I'm stopping by a plumbing supply place tonight, so I'd just like confirmation on this maybe in the next two or three hours
Drain redesign: The drains are almost completely quiet totally sealed instead of left open, so I'm going to to just rubber band a plastic seals over them. If the gurgling continues I'll consider a more elaborate setup, but right now too much air seems to be getting into my pipes, not too little
Return redesign: I'm still torn between two plans
1. Buy a single 3/4 check valve, and two slip to hose barb adapters. Cut the return flexline before it reaches the T in the back, and clamp both ends. Cap off the tops of the Ts. If there is any issue I could see with this, it's having a hard PVC valve hanging off of flexline - seems like it will put stress on the line.
2. Install two check valves on the top of the Ts. It will be slightly more expensive, but work fine as far as I can tell, provided a check valve meant for water will allow the flow of air through it in reverse. Should be more stable (as it will be part of the hard return pipes), but less attractive of course.
I will buy bulkhead screens eventually, but I am concerned given my water level is currently almost at the glass line. I've found from experience that pipes almost never thread all the way down, so
Also, my hose clamps are metal, but they shouldn't get wet as a part of normal operation. Should I look to replace all of them with plastic before the final setup, or will they do?
Thanks
Drain redesign: The drains are almost completely quiet totally sealed instead of left open, so I'm going to to just rubber band a plastic seals over them. If the gurgling continues I'll consider a more elaborate setup, but right now too much air seems to be getting into my pipes, not too little
Return redesign: I'm still torn between two plans
1. Buy a single 3/4 check valve, and two slip to hose barb adapters. Cut the return flexline before it reaches the T in the back, and clamp both ends. Cap off the tops of the Ts. If there is any issue I could see with this, it's having a hard PVC valve hanging off of flexline - seems like it will put stress on the line.
2. Install two check valves on the top of the Ts. It will be slightly more expensive, but work fine as far as I can tell, provided a check valve meant for water will allow the flow of air through it in reverse. Should be more stable (as it will be part of the hard return pipes), but less attractive of course.
I will buy bulkhead screens eventually, but I am concerned given my water level is currently almost at the glass line. I've found from experience that pipes almost never thread all the way down, so
Also, my hose clamps are metal, but they shouldn't get wet as a part of normal operation. Should I look to replace all of them with plastic before the final setup, or will they do?
Thanks
timpetty
Fish Crazy
Hopefully this horrible drawing will help. It is kind of hard for me to visualize what you are explaining without seeing it.
The only mod I did not add to the sketch was that on the line draining from the tank you will need some sort of screen or attachment to block debris from blocking and causing a flood.
Also, ball valves can be added in for convenience before the return line connection on both sides.
Hope this helps
The only mod I did not add to the sketch was that on the line draining from the tank you will need some sort of screen or attachment to block debris from blocking and causing a flood.
Also, ball valves can be added in for convenience before the return line connection on both sides.
Hope this helps
showjyr
Fishaholic
I thought this might be of some help. This is the 29 I'm setting up and the one thing I will be adding is a T fitting on the drain side to eliminate gurgling. On page 4 is the weir box I made for the drain side.
My 29 gallon build.
My 29 gallon build.
Go with option 1, a single checkvalve is fine. I would also reccomend longterm to go with plastic or stainless steel hose clamps. Over time salt creep will get on the cheap plain steel ones, rust, and ultimately destroy them.
eschaton
Fishaholic
Okay, I finally got a tank setup done, but I have a few problems. I tried a "wet run" with tap, and since have filled up with RO and salted the water appropriately. Would like to fix these before I add substrate.
1. For some reason, now that the water is salted, the water level is higher than when I was testing with tap. It sits around 1/4 inch further up in the tank, despite there being holes in the bulkhead screen that are clearly below water. Maybe the pump is too strong for the existing drain holes, but I don't see why that would become an issue now - does the salt increase surface tension.
2. Despite upgrading to 1 inch drain pipes, one of my drains is still incredibly loud - sounds like a toilet flushing all the time. I have a feeling I'll have to remove it and try and build a whole new drain.
3. The flexline coming off this drain also has issues. I think it's because unlike the other drain, which is a straight shot down, it has to bend at an angle to get into the sump. When traveling down, it's a cylinder of water in the center of the pipe (with air surrounding it), but once it falls to the bend, it collects in periodic gushes of water and air...meaning huge, noisy bubbles. I can't figure out what to do here. It's actually far worse than when there was a small flexline.
4. The bottom of one of my baffles leaks slightly, but I don't think this is really an issue, as the majority of water still goes where it should.
1. For some reason, now that the water is salted, the water level is higher than when I was testing with tap. It sits around 1/4 inch further up in the tank, despite there being holes in the bulkhead screen that are clearly below water. Maybe the pump is too strong for the existing drain holes, but I don't see why that would become an issue now - does the salt increase surface tension.
2. Despite upgrading to 1 inch drain pipes, one of my drains is still incredibly loud - sounds like a toilet flushing all the time. I have a feeling I'll have to remove it and try and build a whole new drain.
3. The flexline coming off this drain also has issues. I think it's because unlike the other drain, which is a straight shot down, it has to bend at an angle to get into the sump. When traveling down, it's a cylinder of water in the center of the pipe (with air surrounding it), but once it falls to the bend, it collects in periodic gushes of water and air...meaning huge, noisy bubbles. I can't figure out what to do here. It's actually far worse than when there was a small flexline.
4. The bottom of one of my baffles leaks slightly, but I don't think this is really an issue, as the majority of water still goes where it should.
timpetty
Fish Crazy
Im not sure what setup you have on your drainage bulkhead. If you dont already have one, put a T-fitting on it with a cap on the top with a small hole drilled in it. Then have your return attached to the bottom. This will allow air into the return and stop the suction effect.
Agreed, pics will help too.
Also are your two overflows at identical heights? Helps to have one higher than the other...
Also are your two overflows at identical heights? Helps to have one higher than the other...
eschaton
Fishaholic
I figured out there was a blockage in one of the drains, which was causing the high water level. Since I removed it, the level is back to normal.
I also fished small airline tubes down into the drains on either side. This has cut down on the noise, as well as the big bubbles going into the sump, but not eliminated them. I am hoping filling up the supply chamber with live rock rubble will help break up the bubbles the remainder of the way.
More annoyingly, I realized there is virtually no pressure on the water now coming out of my spray bars (I also think this is related to why my formerly quiet pump has been running hot and loud). I'm rebuilding my returns so I each just has two elbows which form an upside-down U over the tank rim. Hopefully this will be enough, but I might need to redo the returns in 1/2 inch pipe instead to try and get higher flow. I'd have it together tonight, but for the second time I made the mistake of buying 3/4th hose barbs instead of 1/2 barbs (my hose is 5/8th)
I redid the drains tonight as well. They seemed done, but had a slow leak (more like a bleed) due to inadequate Teflon tape. It wasn't bad enough to even drip onto the floor, but it was forming salt encrustations. I nearly had a heart attack when I heard a crack, and the bulkhead started to leak, but whatever the issue was once I partially drained the tank and re-secured the bulkhead it went away
Tomorrow night I'll redo the returns and hopefully everything will get the seal of approval. I've certainly been burning through a lot of parts on this, but I guess you learn from your mistakes.
I also fished small airline tubes down into the drains on either side. This has cut down on the noise, as well as the big bubbles going into the sump, but not eliminated them. I am hoping filling up the supply chamber with live rock rubble will help break up the bubbles the remainder of the way.
More annoyingly, I realized there is virtually no pressure on the water now coming out of my spray bars (I also think this is related to why my formerly quiet pump has been running hot and loud). I'm rebuilding my returns so I each just has two elbows which form an upside-down U over the tank rim. Hopefully this will be enough, but I might need to redo the returns in 1/2 inch pipe instead to try and get higher flow. I'd have it together tonight, but for the second time I made the mistake of buying 3/4th hose barbs instead of 1/2 barbs (my hose is 5/8th)
I redid the drains tonight as well. They seemed done, but had a slow leak (more like a bleed) due to inadequate Teflon tape. It wasn't bad enough to even drip onto the floor, but it was forming salt encrustations. I nearly had a heart attack when I heard a crack, and the bulkhead started to leak, but whatever the issue was once I partially drained the tank and re-secured the bulkhead it went away
Tomorrow night I'll redo the returns and hopefully everything will get the seal of approval. I've certainly been burning through a lot of parts on this, but I guess you learn from your mistakes.
pmb_67
Fish Fanatic
Just a quick note - ball valves don't necessarily narrow your piping, unless you have them half-closed to regulate flow in some way I guess. The trick (as per the Fish Fur & Feather website - where I got my plumbing) is to install a valve one size up from the piping and use reducers to connect the pipes: for example I have a 25mm return line with a 32mm ball valve on it. Ok, so it's a bit more expense but it hopefully reduces the blockage potential.
Paul
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