I have a Mexican dwarf crayfish in the tank, will any of this affect him? Do I need to contain the fish before doing the water changes? Also, how do I prevent any other unfortunate events after doing the water change?Does the fish in the picture have puffy lips or was it eating?
Fin Rot is caused by poor water quality (dirty tank) that allows bacteria and protozoans to flourish and infect the fish. The poor water quality damages the fish and allows bacteria in, which destroys the tissue.
Check the water quality and make sure there is no ammonia or nitrite, and the nitrate levels are less than 20ppm.
Make sure the pH is above 7.0 and the general hardness (GH) is above 200ppm.
The easiest way to treat Fin Rot (or most other fish health issues) is to do a 75% water change and gravel clean the substrate each day for a week.
Filters should be cleaned at least once a month, preferably more often. Clean the filter if it hasn't been done in the last 2 weeks. If you use a power filter, wash the filter materials in a bucket of tank water. Rinse the filter case and impellor assembly under tap water.
If the tail gets worse and develops white fluffy stuff on the edge, it has a fungal infection. If the edge of the tail and the area around the damaged area goes red, it has a bacterial infection. If this happens, post another picture asap and I can advise you further.
You can add rock salt (often sold as aquarium salt), sea salt or swimming pool salt to the aquarium at the dose rate of 1 heaped tablespoon per 20 litres of water. If there is no improvement after 48 hours you can double that dose rate so there is 2 heaped tablespoons of salt per 20 litres.
If you only have livebearers (guppies, platies, swordtails, mollies), goldfish or rainbowfish in the tank you can double that dose rate, so you would add 2 heaped tablespoons per 20 litres and if there is no improvement after 48 hours, then increase it so there is a total of 4 heaped tablespoons of salt per 20 litres.
Keep the salt level like this for at least 2 weeks but no longer than 4 weeks otherwise kidney damage can occur. Kidney damage is more likely to occur in fish from soft water (tetras, Corydoras, angelfish, gouramis, loaches) that are exposed to high levels of salt for an extended period of time, and is not an issue with livebearers, rainbowfish or other salt tolerant species.
The salt will not affect the beneficial filter bacteria but the higher dose rate will affect some plants. The lower dose rate will not affect plants.
After you use salt and the fish have recovered, you do a 10% water change each day for a week. Then do a 20% water change each day for a week. Then you can do bigger water changes after that.
Maybe, not really a big crayfish person so can't answer for you.I have a Mexican dwarf crayfish in the tank, will any of this affect him? Do I need to contain the fish before doing the water changes? Also, how do I prevent any other unfortunate events after doing the water change?
Well it all depends on how your tank runs and everyone's is different. What I tend to do when I have a new aquarium set up (after cycling and stocking, then again after any stocking changes) is test my water every day, and find out how long it takes for the nitrate to reach 20ppm and then set my water change schedule to maintain the levels below this. As 20ppm for a prolonged period of time has been shown to have an effect on fish health.Ok, I do have an API liquid test kid and the reported numbers all appear fine. 50& on this tank just seems like a lot. I still have a small gravel vacuum, how should I remove all of that water more effeciently?
Salt will not affect the crayfish but crayfish will attack fish at night time and could be the cause of the damaged tail.I have a Mexican dwarf crayfish in the tank, will any of this affect him? Do I need to contain the fish before doing the water changes? Also, how do I prevent any other unfortunate events after doing the water change?