Everything going out of hand

[Colin_T]

white on the body or fins is excess mucous caused by something irritating the fish. the fish produces more mucous to reduce the irritation.

do a few more water changes (1 a day for 3-7 days) and see how they go.
make sure new water is free of chlorine/ chloramine before it's added to the tank.

make sure any buckets you use on the fish tank are used purely for the fish and nobody uses them for anything else.

 

[Sgooosh]

white on the body or fins is excess mucous caused by something irritating the fish. the fish produces more mucous to reduce the irritation.

do a few more water changes (1 a day for 3-7 days) and see how they go.
make sure new water is free of chlorine/ chloramine before it's added to the tank.

make sure any buckets you use on the fish tank are used purely for the fish and nobody uses them for anything else.

Yes i bought a home depot bucjet just for that. I will do it starting tommorow, i thiught it was one BIG change after 2 days

 

[mark4785]

Fin rot is always preceded by a build of bacteria or direct contact with a dead fish. If you can do several daily water changes for 2-3 days and add in anti-bacterial (Waterlife Myxazin) for the fin rot you should be back on track very quickly.

 

[Sgooosh]

Fin rot is always preceded by a build of bacteria or direct contact with a dead fish. If you can do several daily water changes for 2-3 days and add in anti-bacterial (Waterlife Myxazin) for the fin rot you should be back on track very quickly.

i am doing the waterchanges, others have not reccomended anti bacterial?

 

[mark4785]

i am doing the waterchanges, others have not reccomended anti bacterial?

Its ultimately up to you what you choose to do. If there is an identifiable disease like fin rot I would personally treat it with medication on top of water changes.

 

[Sgooosh]

Its ultimately up to you what you choose to do. If there is an identifiable disease like fin rot I would personally treat it with medication on top of water changes.

ok i will move the snails to temp enclosure

 

[Colin_T]

I am doing the water changes, others have not recommended anti bacterial?

You can normally use clean water and salt to treat fin rot. However, in stubborn cases you might need to use fish medications. Some medications like Waterlife Myxazin will kill some bacteria but do not contain anti-biotics. Other fish medications are actually anti-biotics like what a doctor would prescribe you for a bacterial infection.

As a general rule, you DO NOT need anti-biotics to treat fin rot in fish, and salt or broad spectrum fish medications should be used before anti-biotics are even considered.

 

[Byron]

I agree with those recommending only significant regular water changes for the present. More than once I have noticed something just not quite right, and before guessing on "treatment chemicals" I do a major 70-75% water change--it is remarkable (well, not really when you consider the benefit of such a W/C) how this solves whatever it was. Provided the GH and pH and temperature between tap (fresh) and tank water is reasonably the same, a large change can do no harm, only benefit.

Second, back in an earlier post the chemical StressCoat was mentioned. Do not use this. It contains aloe vera, and studies have now determined that this does likely impact the gills and other internal organs of fish. I have never seen any evidence it does what it claims anyway. The fewer chemicals into the water, the fewer into the fish and this is always beneficial. Here's the section on aloe vera from the scientific study:

Water additives that form a protective ‘‘slime layer’’ will contain a polymer (often PVP or carboxymethyl cellulose [CMC]) or colloid (Table 2). Some additives contain aloe extract from leaves of the Aloe vera plant. Manufacturers of these products claim that the Aloe vera extract promotes healing of damaged tissue. One potential drawback to water additives that contain Aloe vera extract or CMC is the addition of organic waste load that can reduce the water quality and oxygen levels in a closed system. This may not be an issue, depending on the density of fish, length of time fish are held, and oxygen content of the water. However, the effects of these substances on gill tissue are unclear. Taiwo et al. (2005) tested the survival and behavior of tilapia (Oreochromis niloticus) exposed to different concentrations of aqueous extract of A. vera for up to 96 h. One hundred percent of tilapia exposed to 50 ppm A. vera died within the duration of the experiment. Fish used in this experiment exhibited severe depigmentation and destruction of organs (including gills). The evidence of the toxic effects of A. vera on fish solidifies the need to empirically test water conditioners, and their chemical components, for potential negative effects on fish.​

​

Harnish, Ryan A., Alison H. Colotelo and Richard S. Brown (2011), "A review of polymer-based water conditioners for reduction of handling-related injury," Revues in Fish Biology and Fisheries, volume 21, pp. 43–49. The entire paper is viewable here: (PDF) A review of polymer-based water conditioners for reduction of handling-related injury (researchgate.net)​

You will be better with a conditioner that only does what is needed for your water. If this is just chlorine and/or chloramine, the best product I have found is API's Tap Water Conditioner; it deals with chlorine, chloramine and heavy metals, nothing else. And it is very condensed so less is needed, another benefit for fish.

 

[Sgooosh]

You can normally use clean water and salt to treat fin rot. However, in stubborn cases you might need to use fish medications. Some medications like Waterlife Myxazin will kill some bacteria but do not contain anti-biotics. Other fish medications are actually anti-biotics like what a doctor would prescribe you for a bacterial infection.

As a general rule, you DO NOT need anti-biotics to treat fin rot in fish, and salt or broad spectrum fish medications should be used before anti-biotics are even considered.

I agree with those recommending only significant regular water changes for the present. More than once I have noticed something just not quite right, and before guessing on "treatment chemicals" I do a major 70-75% water change--it is remarkable (well, not really when you consider the benefit of such a W/C) how this solves whatever it was. Provided the GH and pH and temperature between tap (fresh) and tank water is reasonably the same, a large change can do no harm, only benefit.

Second, back in an earlier post the chemical StressCoat was mentioned. Do not use this. It contains aloe vera, and studies have now determined that this does likely impact the gills and other internal organs of fish. I have never seen any evidence it does what it claims anyway. The fewer chemicals into the water, the fewer into the fish and this is always beneficial. Here's the section on aloe vera from the scientific study:

Water additives that form a protective ‘‘slime layer’’ will contain a polymer (often PVP or carboxymethyl cellulose [CMC]) or colloid (Table 2). Some additives contain aloe extract from leaves of the Aloe vera plant. Manufacturers of these products claim that the Aloe vera extract promotes healing of damaged tissue. One potential drawback to water additives that contain Aloe vera extract or CMC is the addition of organic waste load that can reduce the water quality and oxygen levels in a closed system. This may not be an issue, depending on the density of fish, length of time fish are held, and oxygen content of the water. However, the effects of these substances on gill tissue are unclear. Taiwo et al. (2005) tested the survival and behavior of tilapia (Oreochromis niloticus) exposed to different concentrations of aqueous extract of A. vera for up to 96 h. One hundred percent of tilapia exposed to 50 ppm A. vera died within the duration of the experiment. Fish used in this experiment exhibited severe depigmentation and destruction of organs (including gills). The evidence of the toxic effects of A. vera on fish solidifies the need to empirically test water conditioners, and their chemical components, for potential negative effects on fish.​

​

Harnish, Ryan A., Alison H. Colotelo and Richard S. Brown (2011), "A review of polymer-based water conditioners for reduction of handling-related injury," Revues in Fish Biology and Fisheries, volume 21, pp. 43–49. The entire paper is viewable here: (PDF) A review of polymer-based water conditioners for reduction of handling-related injury (researchgate.net)​

You will be better with a conditioner that only does what is needed for your water. If this is just chlorine and/or chloramine, the best product I have found is API's Tap Water Conditioner; it deals with chlorine, chloramine and heavy metals, nothing else. And it is very condensed so less is needed, another benefit for fish.

thanks yall, i tried the water but it started to become more stubborn..
so im starting medication.
ok ill use the normal one unless any mean kids bite other ones fins...
yes! i am surpried how condened, it is like a drop for a gallon! 0.6drops for 5 gallon!!
0.12 for 1 gal but too hard to measure lolol

 

[Byron]

thanks yall, i tried the water but it started to become more stubborn..
so im starting medication.
ok ill use the normal one unless any mean kids bite other ones fins...
yes! i am surpried how condened, it is like a drop for a gallon! 0.6drops for 5 gallon!!
0.12 for 1 gal but too hard to measure lolol

I got one of those medicinal droppers at the supermarket for a couple dollars; you can add drops or use the metric measure on the glass when you need say 20 gallons worth (1 ml).,

 

[Sgooosh]

I got one of those medicinal droppers at the supermarket for a couple dollars; you can add drops or use the metric measure on the glass when you need say 20 gallons worth (1 ml).,

cool, im still getting used to mine so yea

 

[Colin_T]

you can use salt with medication for a double hit on the problem.

 

[Sgooosh]

you can use salt with medication for a double hit on the problem.

Ok i will probably