Emergency, fish dying.

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Yes understood. How long will the parasites take to die from the sale? the full 2 weeks?
It depends on which parasites are affecting the fish. Some like Costia, Chilodonella and Trichodina die within a day or two of adding salt. However, you continue using the salt for 2 weeks to make sure all the parasites are dead and the fish have healed up.

White spot and Velvet can only be treated during their free swimming stages, which occurs several days after they have dropped off their host. The parasites can't be killed when on the fish. They spend several days on the fish before dropping off and sitting on the substrate. While they are on the substrate the parasite divides and multiplies inside its cyst.

After a few days of dividing, the cyst ruptures open and releases hundreds of new parasites into the water. This is the free swimming stage and the only time you can kill these 2 parasites.

When treating white spot or velvet, you need to keep the water at 30C for at least 1 week and preferably 2 weeks to make sure all the parasites are dead. If you stop treatment too soon, one or two parasites could survive and a few weeks later the fish are covered in spots again.
 
It depends on which parasites are affecting the fish. Some like Costia, Chilodonella and Trichodina die within a day or two of adding salt. However, you continue using the salt for 2 weeks to make sure all the parasites are dead and the fish have healed up.

White spot and Velvet can only be treated during their free swimming stages, which occurs several days after they have dropped off their host. The parasites can't be killed when on the fish. They spend several days on the fish before dropping off and sitting on the substrate. While they are on the substrate the parasite divides and multiplies inside its cyst.

After a few days of dividing, the cyst ruptures open and releases hundreds of new parasites into the water. This is the free swimming stage and the only time you can kill these 2 parasites.

When treating white spot or velvet, you need to keep the water at 30C for at least 1 week and preferably 2 weeks to make sure all the parasites are dead. If you stop treatment too soon, one or two parasites could survive and a few weeks later the fish are covered in spots again.
ok thanks.
 
The tiger barb in the pictures does not have velvet. The yellow reflection is light coming off the scales.

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Male loaches are smaller and slimmer than females. The females get bigger and fatter because they take more food and develop eggs, which makes them fatter.

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Fish rubbing/ flicking on objects in the tank, clamped fins, and breathing rapidly are all symptoms of an external protozoan infection. This combined with the fact you recently added some mollies, suggests an external protozoan infection.

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Chemical Medications that contain Copper or Malachite Green will treat velvet, white spot or any other external protozoan infection. However, chemicals are toxic and can kill the fish if you overdose.

Malachite Green (aka Victoria Green) is carcinogenic/ causes cancer.

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Raising the water temperature to 30C is the safest way to treat velvet or white spot and you don't need chemicals. Salt is the safest treatment for other external protozoan infections.

30C is fine for all tropical fish as long as there is plenty of oxygen and clean water.
Hi, Iā€™m a week in to this 30 degree and salt mix. However I have noticed another barb seems to be wasting away and is very very bloated. See image. No one else has died since last week.
950C10D2-5C88-43B0-8E40-0B1A957B3CBA.jpeg
 
Are the scales sticking out from the body?
Is the fish still eating?
What does the fish's poop look like?

If the fish has stopped eating and is doing a stringy white poop, it has an internal bacterial infection and is dying.
 
Are the scales sticking out from the body?
Is the fish still eating?
What does the fish's poop look like?

If the fish has stopped eating and is doing a stringy white poop, it has an internal bacterial infection and is dying.
Hi, no scales popping out, not sure about eating will see tonight. All of the barbs have had white poo at some point. What bacterial are you thinking and best course of action? Also, the salt and temp, this isnā€™t going to help with that I guess so worth stopping that? Best treatment?
 
Are the scales sticking out from the body?
Is the fish still eating?
What does the fish's poop look like?

If the fish has stopped eating and is doing a stringy white poop, it has an internal bacterial infection and is dying.
The loaches are looking very thin also.
 
Internal bacterial infections can be from any sort of bacteria and the only way to find out what species of bacteria is causing the problem is to have the fish necropsied by a fish vet, and that costs a lot of money. But if the fish has stopped eating and is doing a stringy white poop, then it's too late.

I don't recommend using anti-biotics for internal problems because most of the time the fish dies before you get the medication and there's no point adding anti-biotics unless you know what species of bacteria is involved.

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Finish the 2 weeks of salt and heat to make sure there is no white spot or other external protozoan infections and go from there.

Salt and heat won't make any difference to internal bacterial infections.
 
Internal bacterial infections can be from any sort of bacteria and the only way to find out what species of bacteria is causing the problem is to have the fish necropsied by a fish vet, and that costs a lot of money. But if the fish has stopped eating and is doing a stringy white poop, then it's too late.

I don't recommend using anti-biotics for internal problems because most of the time the fish dies before you get the medication and there's no point adding anti-biotics unless you know what species of bacteria is involved.

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Finish the 2 weeks of salt and heat to make sure there is no white spot or other external protozoan infections and go from there.

Salt and heat won't make any difference to internal bacterial infections.
Hi, iv had another barb die. Albino this time.. salt is in, heat is up. Iv also decided to dose with antibacterial medicine because if itā€™s internal then something was needed. There just isnā€™t any obvious symptoms. What could this be? See image
B7AB7B50-4461-45CB-BB1F-3DDA756CD6D4.jpeg
 
Do not use this. If you do have ich, as Colin said, raise the heat to 86F (30C) and that will deal with it. These chemical concoctions are usually more bad than useful.
Ich-X is the safest Ich medication. It contains a milder form of malachite green. It is also safe for scaless fish. Cory with Aquarium Co/Op highly recommends it. I am using it along with heat and salt. All is fine. Just be sure you have extra oxygen going in tank with an air stone. I have an HOB and sponge filter Which provide plenty of aeration. On day 8 of all 3 treatments. Ich finally going away and fish doing well.
 
Ich-X is the safest Ich medication. It contains a milder form of malachite green. It is also safe for scaless fish. Cory with Aquarium Co/Op highly recommends it. I am using it along with heat and salt. All is fine. Just be sure you have extra oxygen going in tank with an air stone. I have an HOB and sponge filter Which provide plenty of aeration. On day 8 of all 3 treatments. Ich finally going away and fish doing well.
I posted a picture of the ich x I have and the other people in the thread said done use this...
 
In the UK, the only place we can get Ich-X is Ebay, imported from the USA with an expected delivery date of up to 29 June. Though Ben2522 did order his well in advance of needing it.
 
In the UK, the only place we can get Ich-X is Ebay, imported from the USA with an expected delivery date of up to 29 June. That's a long time to wait!
Iv already got it off eBay imported as I wanted treatments before I bought fish months ago. Researched and prepared lol. Then was told do t use it or any medicine. Then it looks like I have bateria infection but no suggestion of what to do so I just got anti bac from LFS myself. Wasnā€™t aware ich x would work for all internal bacterial issues.
Any idea why fish keep dying? They arenā€™t showing any signs of anything other than flashing the other day. The ones flashing arenā€™t the ones dying though. Itā€™s the ones with no symptoms. Water quality is spot on.
 
The website doesn't mention Ich-X treating internal bacteria, just protozoan and fungal infections presumably external.

We can't get antibiotics without a vet's prescription, and strictly speaking it's also illegal to import antibiotics. The medications we have are quite mild in comparison. The best two meds are eSHa 2000 and Waterlife's Myxazin.
 
Iv already got it off eBay imported as I wanted treatments before I bought fish months ago. Researched and prepared lol. Then was told do t use it or any medicine. Then it looks like I have bateria infection but no suggestion of what to do so I just got anti bac from LFS myself. Wasnā€™t aware ich x would work for all internal bacterial issues.
Any idea why fish keep dying? They arenā€™t showing any signs of anything other than flashing the other day. The ones flashing arenā€™t the ones dying though. Itā€™s the ones with no symptoms. Water quality is spot on.
I was just commenting that Ich-X is perfectly safe to our friends who are against it. They are against most meds though. We each have our views.
 

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