Easy Red Plants

FishHobby99

Fish Gatherer
Joined
Aug 15, 2021
Messages
2,455
Reaction score
75
Location
USA
Iā€˜m looking at the California place a poster mentioned yesterday. They have several red plants. Mostly Iā€™m doing anubias & Java ferns. Easy plants for us newbies. Would any of these be as hardy?
 

Attachments

  • 8048FBB5-FF0E-41D1-8945-D9BC552BF1AE.jpeg
    8048FBB5-FF0E-41D1-8945-D9BC552BF1AE.jpeg
    85.7 KB · Views: 32
  • 49A01484-3221-4466-842C-09631E774AA7.png
    49A01484-3221-4466-842C-09631E774AA7.png
    169.9 KB · Views: 31
  • 716837CF-C40C-437B-9465-826489C63A76.png
    716837CF-C40C-437B-9465-826489C63A76.png
    142.1 KB · Views: 28
  • A475D70E-9DD3-4F87-8AC9-BB471E135195.png
    A475D70E-9DD3-4F87-8AC9-BB471E135195.png
    163.6 KB · Views: 31
  • 34E2E12C-15B9-4846-9A1C-476DF9390704.jpeg
    34E2E12C-15B9-4846-9A1C-476DF9390704.jpeg
    82.4 KB · Views: 29
  • 202CA66D-5F9D-4924-B619-E983C455C0DA.jpeg
    202CA66D-5F9D-4924-B619-E983C455C0DA.jpeg
    55.8 KB · Views: 34
Alternanthera reineckii wasn't too difficult for me. From what I understand though, plants with red thrive with C02 and Iron. I just sort of tried my hand at it and was successful, although I have since moved on from it. I run a high tech C02 injected tank, if that is any help to you.
 
Alternanthera reineckii wasn't too difficult for me. From what I understand though, plants with red thrive with C02 and Iron. I just sort of tried my hand at it and was successful, although I have since moved on from it. I run a high tech C02 injected tank, if that is any help to you.
Thanks, I run low tech 19th Century tanks. Whatā€˜s the CO2 for?
SW?
 
The usual problem with red-leaf aquatic plants is the light. These plants require brighter light (higher intensity) than green-leaf plants. This is because the colour of the leaves is due to reflected light that we perceive as a colour. Red light along with blue (but red being the more important of the two) is necessary for photosynthesis to occur. If the plant is reflecting red light, it takes more red light to provide sufficient for photosynthesis and the colour. Red leaf plants thus tend to grow well in brighter light, but with higher light intensity also comes more nutrients, and this is where the CO2 enters the picture. Natural CO2 will usually be sufficient for green-leaf plants (always exceptions) but may not be for red.

Adding CO2 will not benefit red leaf plants unless the light intensity is balanced (and much higher). Fish do not like this, so that is another aspect.

Iron is not the issue either, as adding iron without the light and other nutrients willnot help plants, but can kill some (I had this occur).

There are some reddish or brownish-red leaf plants that can work without the higher light intensity, such as some of the Cryptocoryne species. I found these very lovely as a contrast even with my low/moderate light. There is also the red form of the Tiger Lotus, Nymphaea lotus. If you allow the floating leaves to remain they will increase (with basically no substrate-level leaves) and do quite well since they are right under the light, and the underside of the largish leaves are a lovely shade of red-purple.

Stem plants in general require brighter light (being fast growing) so red leaf stem plants like Alternanthera reineckii may struggle in less light, or melt apart completely as it did for me. Some Ludwigia has a purplish under-leaf and sometimes this grows fairly well, though not in my moderate lighting. I try plants over the years and stay with what thrives in my conditions, s the fish come first.
 
The usual problem with red-leaf aquatic plants is the light. These plants require brighter light (higher intensity) than green-leaf plants. This is because the colour of the leaves is due to reflected light that we perceive as a colour. Red light along with blue (but red being the more important of the two) is necessary for photosynthesis to occur. If the plant is reflecting red light, it takes more red light to provide sufficient for photosynthesis and the colour. Red leaf plants thus tend to grow well in brighter light, but with higher light intensity also comes more nutrients, and this is where the CO2 enters the picture. Natural CO2 will usually be sufficient for green-leaf plants (always exceptions) but may not be for red.

Adding CO2 will not benefit red leaf plants unless the light intensity is balanced (and much higher). Fish do not like this, so that is another aspect.

Iron is not the issue either, as adding iron without the light and other nutrients willnot help plants, but can kill some (I had this occur).

There are some reddish or brownish-red leaf plants that can work without the higher light intensity, such as some of the Cryptocoryne species. I found these very lovely as a contrast even with my low/moderate light. There is also the red form of the Tiger Lotus, Nymphaea lotus. If you allow the floating leaves to remain they will increase (with basically no substrate-level leaves) and do quite well since they are right under the light, and the underside of the largish leaves are a lovely shade of red-purple.

Stem plants in general require brighter light (being fast growing) so red leaf stem plants like Alternanthera reineckii may struggle in less light, or melt apart completely as it did for me. Some Ludwigia has a purplish under-leaf and sometimes this grows fairly well, though not in my moderate lighting. I try plants over the years and stay with what thrives in my conditions, s the fish come first.
Good to know, thanks. I tried 2 tiger lilies. Neither lasted long. The stems quickly broke off from the one bulb. The leaves thinned & holes appeared on the other after a few days. I decided to discard everything. I was concerned the bulbs would rot & muck up my water. Both were in heated tanks with LED lights.

Yep, the fish take precedence. That place in California requires a $80 minimum order for free shipping, so Iā€™m thinking of easy red plants in addition to the bulk Anubias to avoid the $15 shipping fee.
 
Thanks, I run low tech 19th Century tanks. Whatā€˜s the CO2 for?
SW?
High lighting and C02 injection are staples of high tech planted tanks. C02 helps in plant growth. It is a complicated rabbit hole to go down but after you have had success with it, it's hard to try another planted tank without it.
 
High lighting and C02 injection are staples of high tech planted tanks. C02 helps in plant growth. It is a complicated rabbit hole to go down but after you have had success with it, it's hard to try another planted tank without it.
Do you keep fish in there? Iā€™m seeing some beautiful planted tanks on Pinterest, no fish at all.
 
Good to know, thanks. I tried 2 tiger lilies. Neither lasted long. The stems quickly broke off from the one bulb. The leaves thinned & holes appeared on the other after a few days. I decided to discard everything. I was concerned the bulbs would rot & muck up my water. Both were in heated tanks with LED lights.

Yep, the fish take precedence. That place in California requires a $80 minimum order for free shipping, so Iā€™m thinking of easy red plants in addition to the bulk Anubias to avoid the $15 shipping fee.

The holes is due to an insufficiency of nutrients. I found that weekly dose (one) of Flourish Comprehensive Supplement solved this, though a very few leaves did fare less well than others, but I just removed these at the water change. This plant was in my 90g tank, and more than half the surface was completely covered by the floating leaves, it was a very beautiful effect.

BTW, this tank was dosed with iron as well, and the floating plants began to melt from the excess iron, and the lotus was badly affected. Did the test twice, same result. There is sufficient iron in FC in balance for any plant needs in natural or low-tech planted tanks. The myth concerning iron began back in the 1980's when laterite (iron clay) substrate additives were all the rage; in time this was shown to be nonsense.
 
You mean floating leaves from the tiger lilies? Some were attractive, but I discarded them, fearing decay.

I do have a big 500 ml container of Seachemā€™s Flourish that came with my secondhand betta setup. Funny thing is the plants looked unhealthy & I threw them all away & bought new ones.

Should I be adding it to all my planted tanks? These tanks have fish.
 
Do you keep fish in there? Iā€™m seeing some beautiful planted tanks on Pinterest, no fish at all.
Yes I do. There is a balance that you find between C02 and 02 levels before you add fish. You find this balance by the use of a drop checker. To be 100% honest, the fish in my high tech planted tank are actually larger and look healthier than the fish in my normal tanks. Maybe this is due to lush plant growth and availability to a more varied selection of food, due to the plants. There is also lots of spawning activity in there. Corys, platys, and shrimp all reproduce regularly. The ember tetras and neons probably have tried as well but I haven't seen any tetra fry so far.
 
You mean floating leaves from the tiger lilies? Some were attractive, but I discarded them, fearing decay.

I do have a big 500 ml container of Seachemā€™s Flourish that came with my secondhand betta setup. Funny thing is the plants looked unhealthy & I threw them all away & bought new ones.

Should I be adding it to all my planted tanks? These tanks have fish.

Yes. I had one red tiger lotus and by encouraging floating leaves after a few months it only produced these, and they grew to roughly 6 inches by 4-5 inches across, with the reddish-purple underside. These leaves would cover the surface if I left them alone, though some as I said showed signs of insufficient nutrients. But a single dose of Flourish Comprehensive Supplement [only this product from the Flourish line] every week kept the plant is good shape, along with the other plants which included some Water Sprite floating, though this sometimes got choked out by the lotus leaves, or vice-versa.

I had two daughter plants form on the Tiger Lotus, and I planted these and they grew, so at the last this tank had three plants. This plant did benefit with Flourish Tabs, one every 3 months. I have very soft water so the tabs do benefit the larger rooted plants, even these lilies.
 
Yes I do. There is a balance that you find between C02 and 02 levels before you add fish. You find this balance by the use of a drop checker. To be 100% honest, the fish in my high tech planted tank are actually larger and look healthier than the fish in my normal tanks. Maybe this is due to lush plant growth and availability to a more varied selection of food, due to the plants. There is also lots of spawning activity in there. Corys, platys, and shrimp all reproduce regularly. The ember tetras and neons probably have tried as well but I haven't seen any tetra fry so far.
Wow! Sounds like the fishy garden of eden.

Iā€˜m not nearly so evolved. Bought my first 5 gal tank in 7/21. Then a few 10ā€™s and a 90 G with a 20 G sump & 20 cichlids/catfish.
Iā€™m adding terrestrial plants with submerged roots to the big tank & lots of Java & anubias inside. Iā€™ve ordered more Java & will tie them to acrylic rods in the corners going bottom to top, so as not to take surface area from my fish.
 

Attachments

  • D70B45D7-0568-4EF0-AE74-BD8302D1500B.jpeg
    D70B45D7-0568-4EF0-AE74-BD8302D1500B.jpeg
    290.2 KB · Views: 32
Some of these plants also do better with rich substrate; I use inert substrate with root tabs and it isn't really the same for more sensitive plants. I never had a lot of luck with ar - i have one mini-ar plant that is growing well (new sprouts) but most of them die off - my aquarium has around 100 par at the substrate and co2 but it is hit and miss; h'ra rotala on the other hand is non-stop weed that i can't decide if i like or hate (the hate comes from strangling effect on lower level plants):
y1.jpg
--
To be honest I've sworn off on stem plants; there are only four i have that i haven't pulled out - PSO, h'ra rotala (though i threw away about 95% of it last week); Myriophyllum or is it that other green fluffy stuff and Bacopa caroliniana which just won't stop coming back for more - it actually isn't a bad plant.
-
Anyway I know that there are people who can grow the various ar non-stop but most of the folks i know that do it have one of the soil type substrate.
 
Some of these plants also do better with rich substrate; I use inert substrate with root tabs and it isn't really the same for more sensitive plants. I never had a lot of luck with ar - i have one mini-ar plant that is growing well (new sprouts) but most of them die off - my aquarium has around 100 par at the substrate and co2 but it is hit and miss; h'ra rotala on the other hand is non-stop weed that i can't decide if i like or hate (the hate comes from strangling effect on lower level plants):
View attachment 147427
--
To be honest I've sworn off on stem plants; there are only four i have that i haven't pulled out - PSO, h'ra rotala (though i threw away about 95% of it last week); Myriophyllum or is it that other green fluffy stuff and Bacopa caroliniana which just won't stop coming back for more - it actually isn't a bad plant.
-
Anyway I know that there are people who can grow the various ar non-stop but most of the folks i know that do it have one of the soil type substrate.
I think itā€™s beautiful! šŸ˜šŸ˜šŸ˜
 
So this is what the plant company in California had to say when I asked about red plants as easy to grow as Java & Anubias. I have absolutely no idea how CO2 is used to support the plants.
 

Attachments

  • A493E73F-D7DF-4455-9C97-95B4C267A5E9.png
    A493E73F-D7DF-4455-9C97-95B4C267A5E9.png
    239.4 KB · Views: 34

Most reactions

trending

Members online

Back
Top