Doing this for a month need help!

[Sergical]

Sounds good...but we really need to know the GH of your source water. I can think of many options here.

A sponge filter is about the best filter for small tanks like this one. I have had sponge filters in tanks up to 40g, using a Fusion Quiet Power Air Pump with a gang valve. Another good option, and in my view perhaps even simpler, is to get a small internal filter; in my 30g and 40g with cories I now use an Aqueon Quiet Flow internal filter; it is just a small motor and the "cartridges" need only be rinsed every water change and not replaced. The benefit of this filter is that the water movement can be a bit stronger than any sponge filter will deliver, and with cories I have found this a benefit. Some cories like romping in a gentle current, some rarely do, but this little filter gives them the option. A Aqueon Quiet Flow rated for a 20g would be all you need.

Play Sand is ideal for tanks with cories; natural looking, very safe.

Unfortunately my master test kit doesn’t measure GH. I will swing by a store and grab a test kit for that and will let you know.

 

[Sergical]

I also did a nitrite and ammonia test ( on the 10g that I did a 75% water change )after 14 hours my results came back as follows
Ammonia: 2.0ppm
Nitrite: 0ppm
Any thoughts on this?

 

[Byron]

Unfortunately my master test kit doesn’t measure GH. I will swing by a store and grab a test kit for that and will let you know.

You don't need to waste money on a test you will only likely use the one time. Can you not find the GH from your water authority? Check their website, or call them. Just make sure to get the number and their unit of measurement so we will know.

I also did a nitrite and ammonia test ( on the 10g that I did a 75% water change )after 14 hours my results came back as follows
Ammonia: 2.0ppm
Nitrite: 0ppm
Any thoughts on this?

Is this the case where there is ammonia in your source water?

The pH is also relevant with ammonia; if the pH is acidic (below 7) the "ammonia" is mainly ammonium which is basically harmless. At a pH above 7 it is more ammonia than ammonium. Aquarium pH tests usually test ammonia and ammonium as "ammonia" so knowing the pH is important.

 

[Sergical]

You don't need to waste money on a test you will only likely use the one time. Can you not find the GH from your water authority? Check their website, or call them. Just make sure to get the number and their unit of measurement so we will know.



Is this the case where there is ammonia in your source water?

The pH is also relevant with ammonia; if the pH is acidic (below 7) the "ammonia" is mainly ammonium which is basically harmless. At a pH above 7 it is more ammonia than ammonium. Aquarium pH tests usually test ammonia and ammonium as "ammonia" so knowing the pH is important.

I called my local water authorities and they told me that the water is “soft water” and that the exact measurement is 6.2ppm. The ammonia is present and in high levels in my tap water. As for the pH, I haven’t tested it since my water change yesterday. When I get home I will be more than happy to provide you with that information.

 

[Byron]

I called my local water authorities and they told me that the water is “soft water” and that the exact measurement is 6.2ppm. The ammonia is present and in high levels in my tap water. As for the pH, I haven’t tested it since my water change yesterday. When I get home I will be more than happy to provide you with that information.

Good news on all fronts. A GH of 6.2 is actually "very soft" so that suits pretty much any/all fish from South America (tetras, pencilfish, hatchetfish, cory catfish, dwarf cichlids) and SE Asia (rasboras, gourami...I am leaving out the danios and barbs due to the tank size, and most of the loaches need more space too). This mean well over 2/3 of the fish in the hobby!

It also means you don't need to fuss over the ammonia, as it will be harmless ammonium with an acidic pH and the pH is bound to lower below 7 in soft water, especially as the organics increase and decompose in the substrate naturally.

On the filter, I would recommend the small Aqueon Quiet Flow. You mentioned cory catfish and this will benefit them. The flow is adjustable, but my 40+ cories do appreciate it, and the better surface disturbance ensures a good oxygen level in the water which helps them a great deal.

 

[Sergical]

Good news on all fronts. A GH of 6.2 is actually "very soft" so that suits pretty much any/all fish from South America (tetras, pencilfish, hatchetfish, cory catfish, dwarf cichlids) and SE Asia (rasboras, gourami...I am leaving out the danios and barbs due to the tank size, and most of the loaches need more space too). This mean well over 2/3 of the fish in the hobby!

It also means you don't need to fuss over the ammonia, as it will be harmless ammonium with an acidic pH and the pH is bound to lower below 7 in soft water, especially as the organics increase and decompose in the substrate naturally.

On the filter, I would recommend the small Aqueon Quiet Flow. You mentioned cory catfish and this will benefit them. The flow is adjustable, but my 40+ cories do appreciate it, and the better surface disturbance ensures a good oxygen level in the water which helps them a great deal.

Thank you for the new good news! I am currently cycling a 20g long tank in which I’m going to keep a school of tetras and corys and someone had mentioned that they thrive in hard water. Do I need to worry about adjusting the GH of the water before adding the fish?


As for my 10g. I haven’t tested the pH since my 75% water change.I will go ahead and post that along with an updated ammonia reading as well.

 

[Retired Viking]

Thank you for the new good news! I am currently cycling a 20g long tank in which I’m going to keep a school of tetras and corys and someone had mentioned that they thrive in hard water. Do I need to worry about adjusting the GH of the water before adding the fish?
[/QUOTE
You have soft water which is fine for tetras and cory. Hard water is not good for them

 

[Sergical]

No! Tetras and cory are soft water fish not haed water. If you put them in hard water it will shorten their lives and could lead to other health issues.

Okay gotcha! I’m going to cycle my new 20g without any fish and adding pure ammonia to cycle the tank and making sure to add a bunch of live plants that were recommended to me in this thread. I found this website

https://fishlab.com/how-to-cycle-aquarium/

That a friend recommended to follow to cycle a tank. Any thoughts or concerns?

 

[Retired Viking]

Why not look at doing a planted/silent cycle? Since you already have plants. Basically you plant the plants let them establish themselves (week or two) and then start adding fish. Just google it there are detailed instructions That is what I have done with my 55 and 30 gallon tanks and plan on doing with my new tank.

 

[Sergical]

Why not look at doing a planted/silent cycle? Since you already have plants. Basically you plant the plants let them establish themselves (week or two) and then start adding fish. Just google it there are detailed instructions That is what I have done with my 55 and 30 gallon tanks and plan on doing with my new tank.

Sure, I’ll take a look into it! Thanks for the info

 

[Essjay]

If you do a silent cycle you will need more than just the odd plants or two. If you plan lots, that's fine. But if you only want a couple of plants it would be safer for the fish to do a fishless cycle and put the plants in once the cycle finishes.


This is the best method for fishless cycling https://www.fishforums.net/threads/cycling-your-new-fresh-water-tank-read-this-first.421488/
The method in your link tells you to add ammonia whenever it falls below their recommended level. This can stall the cycle as it will make so much nitrite. The method on here was written so that nitrite can never get high enough to reach stall point.

 

[Sergical]

If you do a silent cycle you will need more than just the odd plants or two. If you plan lots, that's fine. But if you only want a couple of plants it would be safer for the fish to do a fishless cycle and put the plants in once the cycle finishes.


This is the best method for fishless cycling https://www.fishforums.net/threads/cycling-your-new-fresh-water-tank-read-this-first.421488/
The method in your link tells you to add ammonia whenever it falls below their recommended level. This can stall the cycle as it will make so much nitrite. The method on here was written so that nitrite can never get high enough to reach stall point.

I’m looking to do something similar to this. Would that be enough plants do you think?

 

[Sergical]

I’m looking to do something similar to this. Would that be enough plants do you think?

The silent cycle seems pretty fool proof

 

[Retired Viking]

It is actually easy. 1st you plant the plants and you let the tank run for a least a week to two weeks, Test the water and if everything is alright which it should be add your 1st group of fish. Not too many, I added 5 red eyed tetra and tested the water later in the 3rd week to make sure the plants are absorbing the ammonia. 4th week test again and 5th week I added 5 ember tetra, tested again later that week and the next (6 week) 7th week I added my neon shoal. The whole time I had 0 ammonia. You can shorten the time down to each week you add some fish but only if the tank is well planted and your test continue to show 0 ammonia. The thing is like @essjay said is make sure you have enough plants. You can add more as you go too also the right plants.

 

[Retired Viking]

You will want fast growing floating plants like water sprite, anacharis, hornwort and moneywort these and other fast growing plants are the right plants to start with.