Discus Not Eating

[DiscusKeeper403]

Okay, it has been two days. I put the second treatment in the tank. I just noticed he was pooping something white and cottony looking, it was about 3/4 of an inch. He is still not eating anything, but is this a good sign?

White feces is a sign of internal parasites. Can you get a picture next time he passes a bowl movement? The only good sign is when he eats.

How many water changes have you done? I assume your aren't taking my advice in doing daily water changes. Clean water is key and medication needs to be replaced every time water is taken out. Have you increased the temperature on both your tanks? What else do you have in your main tank? I see a killifish by the looks, don't think they will stand the high temperatures very well.

 

[ILuvTropicalFish]

Okay, it has been two days. I put the second treatment in the tank. I just noticed he was pooping something white and cottony looking, it was about 3/4 of an inch. He is still not eating anything, but is this a good sign?

White feces is a sign of internal parasites. Can you get a picture next time he passes a bowl movement? The only good sign is when he eats.

How many water changes have you done? I assume your aren't taking my advice in doing daily water changes. Clean water is key and medication needs to be replaced every time water is taken out. Have you increased the temperature on both your tanks? What else do you have in your main tank? I see a killifish by the looks, don't think they will stand the high temperatures very well.

He has been in that tank for two days and this is the first bowl movement he has had. I was hoping this might be a sign the medication is working. Oh well. I will get a picture the next time.

The main tank has tiger barbs, catfish, bn pleco, 1 killifish, and the two discus. Tank temp is 78.

I incrreased the temp on the hospital tank only, not the main tank. I have not done the water changes you recommended because the PH will go up if I do. I tested the PH on the tank and it has crept up to 7.0. I am going to get some Proper PH, but am out right now and my tap water has a very high PH. I have siphoned out all the uneaten food I have offered him. I will be able to get the Proper PH tomorrow and do a water change then.

I really appreciate your input on this and I will post more tomorrow. Thank-you.

 

[DiscusKeeper403]

Okay, it has been two days. I put the second treatment in the tank. I just noticed he was pooping something white and cottony looking, it was about 3/4 of an inch. He is still not eating anything, but is this a good sign?

White feces is a sign of internal parasites. Can you get a picture next time he passes a bowl movement? The only good sign is when he eats.

How many water changes have you done? I assume your aren't taking my advice in doing daily water changes. Clean water is key and medication needs to be replaced every time water is taken out. Have you increased the temperature on both your tanks? What else do you have in your main tank? I see a killifish by the looks, don't think they will stand the high temperatures very well.

He has been in that tank for two days and this is the first bowl movement he has had. I was hoping this might be a sign the medication is working. Oh well. I will get a picture the next time.

The main tank has tiger barbs, catfish, bn pleco, 1 killifish, and the two discus. Tank temp is 78.

I incrreased the temp on the hospital tank only, not the main tank. I have not done the water changes you recommended because the PH will go up if I do. I tested the PH on the tank and it has crept up to 7.0. I am going to get some Proper PH, but am out right now and my tap water has a very high PH. I have siphoned out all the uneaten food I have offered him. I will be able to get the Proper PH tomorrow and do a water change then.

I really appreciate your input on this and I will post more tomorrow. Thank-you.

You need to increase the main tank temp too. 25C is too cold for Discus, must be at least 28C preferably 30C. Why is your tap water higher then your tank water? Do not use anything to alter pH! Your tap water is fine! My Discus are doing very well in higher pH tap water and in fact most breeders increase the pH because it is better for growing Discus out in.

I think you are going to have to decide on your Killi, Barbs and catfish or your Discus. The BN pleco can stay either way.

 

[ILuvTropicalFish]

What is the PH in your tank? My tap water comes out at 7.5. Isn't that too alkaline?

 

[DiscusKeeper403]

What is the PH in your tank? My tap water comes out at 7.5. Isn't that too alkaline?

Mine is about that same and completely fine. If you can drink it, it is fine Discus needed a lower pH is a myth, the only times they really need to have it a little lower is if their German bred stock (like Stendker) or wild Discus.

 

[Jim Curtis]

You're wasting your time and money by not treating both of the discus in my opinion.

 

[DiscusKeeper403]

You're wasting your time and money by not treating both of the discus in my opinion.

If the OP wants to treat the main tank he/she can just soak the medication in some Blood worms with some garlic guard and if possible, some Focus to bind the medication to the food.

 

[ILuvTropicalFish]

You're wasting your time and money by not treating both of the discus in my opinion.

Jim, now that we are sure it is internal parasites, I will do something about the main tank. I agree, the exposure is there and it would be better to be safe than sorry. That was actually going to be my next question. Does this medication I am using kill beneficial bacteria? If it does not, it would be easy enough to treat the main tank with the same stuff I am using in the hospital tank. I do have to figure out what I am going to do about the other occupants though as DL said because I think I need to be increasing the temp in the tank as well.

"If the OP wants to treat the main tank he/she can just soak the medication in some Blood worms with some garlic guard and if possible, some Focus to bind the medication to the food."

What does OP stand for? I have not heard of Focus. What is that? Do you think this is the best way to treat the fish in the big tank?

Once again, thank-you, thank-you, thank-you. It is so nice to communicate with knowledgeable people. The people at the LFS are wonderful and bless their hearts, they really are trying to be helpful, but I really do wonder sometimes.

 

[DiscusKeeper403]

You're wasting your time and money by not treating both of the discus in my opinion.

Jim, now that we are sure it is internal parasites, I will do something about the main tank. I agree, the exposure is there and it would be better to be safe than sorry. That was actually going to be my next question. Does this medication I am using kill beneficial bacteria? If it does not, it would be easy enough to treat the main tank with the same stuff I am using in the hospital tank. I do have to figure out what I am going to do about the other occupants though as DL said because I think I need to be increasing the temp in the tank as well.

"If the OP wants to treat the main tank he/she can just soak the medication in some Blood worms with some garlic guard and if possible, some Focus to bind the medication to the food."

What does OP stand for? I have not heard of Focus. What is that? Do you think this is the best way to treat the fish in the big tank?

Once again, thank-you, thank-you, thank-you. It is so nice to communicate with knowledgeable people. The people at the LFS are wonderful and bless their hearts, they really are trying to be helpful, but I really do wonder sometimes.

Well, especially after the move to your tank and the lower temp you mine as well treat the fish as a precautionary measure as I am sure the fish has under gone a little stress. OP stands for original poster. Focus is a medication made by Seachem that is used as a binding agent to bind other medications to food.

 

[Jim Curtis]

I would treat the large tank with the medication just to be sure that you are totally free of the parasites. Usually it will say somewhere on the packaging if the medication will have a negative effect on filter bacteria. You should make sure you really follow the instructions and continue dosing for as long as it recommends, even if it appears the fish has improved and started eating.

 

[DiscusKeeper403]

I've used both medications by itself, and together and have had no ill effects on my biological bacteria colony.

 

[ILuvTropicalFish]

Okay, I will start treating the big tank today, after a water change. Oh and the temp is at 80-82 degrees. Those thermometers are so small. And as for the hospital tank, I did a water change yesterday and was careful to replace the treatment that was in there. I tried feeding pellets and garlic soaked bloodworms. He may have eaten some bloodworms after the lights went out. He had another white poo, but I did not catch him doing it so I could get a picture. Temp is up to 85. He looks great, just a bit shy, but he does watch me sometimes.

 

[DiscusKeeper403]

Okay, I will start treating the big tank today, after a water change. Oh and the temp is at 80-82 degrees. Those thermometers are so small. And as for the hospital tank, I did a water change yesterday and was careful to replace the treatment that was in there. I tried feeding pellets and garlic soaked bloodworms. He may have eaten some bloodworms after the lights went out. He had another white poo, but I did not catch him doing it so I could get a picture. Temp is up to 85. He looks great, just a bit shy, but he does watch me sometimes.

Keep up with treatment. Mine as well sprinkle the medication into the food for the main tank as well as in the water, the best way is administering medication orally for treatment. As Tolak says, once you see the sick fish even taking the food and spitting it out, he is on his way to recovery.

 

[ILuvTropicalFish]

Okay, the API General Cure box says to give to treatments, 48 hours apart, then wait 48 hours and do a 25% water change. It says that is the complete course of treatment. We have had two white poops, and maybe he is eating, but not where I have seen. My question now is that he has not eaten in 1 1/2 weeks that I know of. I am offering garlic soaked bloodworms and pellets everyday and removing the uneaten food in the morning each day. How long should I keep trying before giving up?

As a side note, I had my original discus and the other new discus in my separated 55 gallon tank. They are both eating fine. My barbs have figured out how to jump the barrier and the catfish just go through it. This morning I could not find my new one. I panicked! I finally looked on the other side and there he was! I guess they really do like to be together! I pulled the barrier so they have more room, because the existing one is establishing that he is the boss and the new one needs the space to hide, LOL!

 

[DiscusKeeper403]

Okay, the API General Cure box says to give to treatments, 48 hours apart, then wait 48 hours and do a 25% water change. It says that is the complete course of treatment. We have had two white poops, and maybe he is eating, but not where I have seen. My question now is that he has not eaten in 1 1/2 weeks that I know of. I am offering garlic soaked bloodworms and pellets everyday and removing the uneaten food in the morning each day. How long should I keep trying before giving up?

As a side note, I had my original discus and the other new discus in my separated 55 gallon tank. They are both eating fine. My barbs have figured out how to jump the barrier and the catfish just go through it. This morning I could not find my new one. I panicked! I finally looked on the other side and there he was! I guess they really do like to be together! I pulled the barrier so they have more room, because the existing one is establishing that he is the boss and the new one needs the space to hide, LOL!

You need to add more Discus or the same problem is going to happen!! What happens is with the low temperature the fish are stressed, and then the fish gets bullied, eats less and gets even more stressed, and this is why disease sets in! Unless you change what you are doing your never going to have any luck with Discus.

Keep up with treatment but change the medication. If you can get Seachem Focus and Seachem Metro I would recommend this over General cure (using focus to bind medication to food, not for water), although I have not seen what the fish is excreting it can be hit or miss without a proper identification of the worm, metro does have a big kill spectrum though. Dose metro once every 12 hrs 400/mg per 10g in your sick fish. Keep treatment up for a week and hopefully this will clear out any bugs. If hes not eating hes on his last leg so it might be hard to pull him back around. If that doesn't do anything and we can't figure out what worm he has, I'd be tempted to try one last medication, but we will cross that bridge when we got to it.