Didn’t cycle tank... please help

Sorry i havent read all the replies in detail but I have been in your situation so would like to add my thoughts.

An API mater test kit or similar (liquid drops in a clear test tube) is a must because you need to know how bad the ammonia and nitrite levels are and also when to stop worrying. If Pets At Home dont have it, try buying it online. Or if you can go in daily, they should test your water for free (or any petshop that sells fish) but call to ask first.

A bacterial starter can work but the cheaper bottles often dont work for ammonia. In my experience, they have only worked for removing nitrite for me (or providing bacteria that removes nitrite). The bottles do tell you not to change the water for a few days but without being able to test how much ammonia and nitrite you have, you cant tell if the bottle is working or if you have added enough.

What is the ph of your water? If it is under 7, there is evidence to suggest ammonia cannot exist well in an acidic state and therefore converts to ammonium which is a lot less toxic to fish. You can safely change the ph slightly by adding half a cattapa/indian almond leaf or similar like alder cones. If you cant source that, then dried oak leaves can work. Never use Ph altering chemicals from a bottle. Just be careful you dont add too much as it can change the ph dratically in a short amount of time. It will turn your water slightly brown and will slowly leach more of the brown stuff over time (tannins). Dont try to do this without a ph tester and dont go under 6.

If you cant source these natural products then you must do water changes. Test the water twice a day if you can. Your tank is small, so just do 100% water change if you get any ammonia or nitrite readings.

Now nitrite is quite toxic to fish and ph will not change it so this is where the biological starter will come in handy. You will probably need to use the entire bottle in one go. No point in saving it. Once open, it does not keep. If it doesnt work, then keep doing 100% water changes.

100% changes will stress your fish, but it is the lesser of two evils. Water changes dont always kill fish but ammonia and nitrite definitely do. Replaced water should match closely in tempertature to the water in the tank and of course be dechlorinated.

Make sure there is agitation to the surface of the water by means of the filter outflow or an air bubbler. Whilst the fish is exposed to ammonia and nitrate, its gills will be comprimised (it may be able to breathe air but i dont know if it comes up for air whilst asleep?) and also help the bacteria grow faster
 
Depending on what the ammonia and nitrite readings are, i would feed once every two days. If readings keep creeping up then once every three days. Always remove uneaten food with a net and do not be tempted to overfeed. One or two pellets/flakes is enough or split the portions over a day ie day 1 nothing, day 2 one flake, day 3 one flake, day 4 nothing etc. Once the cycle is complete, slowly increase food but dont go crazy as you will end up having a mini cycle.
 
Sorry i havent read all the replies in detail but I have been in your situation so would like to add my thoughts.

An API mater test kit or similar (liquid drops in a clear test tube) is a must because you need to know how bad the ammonia and nitrite levels are and also when to stop worrying. If Pets At Home dont have it, try buying it online. Or if you can go in daily, they should test your water for free (or any petshop that sells fish) but call to ask first.

A bacterial starter can work but the cheaper bottles often dont work for ammonia. In my experience, they have only worked for removing nitrite for me (or providing bacteria that removes nitrite). The bottles do tell you not to change the water for a few days but without being able to test how much ammonia and nitrite you have, you cant tell if the bottle is working or if you have added enough.

What is the ph of your water? If it is under 7, there is evidence to suggest ammonia cannot exist well in an acidic state and therefore converts to ammonium which is a lot less toxic to fish. You can safely change the ph slightly by adding half a cattapa/indian almond leaf or similar like alder cones. If you cant source that, then dried oak leaves can work. Never use Ph altering chemicals from a bottle. Just be careful you dont add too much as it can change the ph dratically in a short amount of time. It will turn your water slightly brown and will slowly leach more of the brown stuff over time (tannins). Dont try to do this without a ph tester and dont go under 6.

If you cant source these natural products then you must do water changes. Test the water twice a day if you can. Your tank is small, so just do 100% water change if you get any ammonia or nitrite readings.

Now nitrite is quite toxic to fish and ph will not change it so this is where the biological starter will come in handy. You will probably need to use the entire bottle in one go. No point in saving it. Once open, it does not keep. If it doesnt work, then keep doing 100% water changes.

100% changes will stress your fish, but it is the lesser of two evils. Water changes dont always kill fish but ammonia and nitrite definitely do. Replaced water should match closely in tempertature to the water in the tank and of course be dechlorinated.

Make sure there is agitation to the surface of the water by means of the filter outflow or an air bubbler. Whilst the fish is exposed to ammonia and nitrate, its gills will be comprimised (it may be able to breathe air but i dont know if it comes up for air whilst asleep?) and also help the bacteria grow faster
I used tetra safe start it seemed to of work my ph stays at 7 -7.5 I keep changing my water every day 50% I filled my tank up and put my fish in 8 days ago brand new none have died they swim round found greeting u at the tank when I go and have a nosey at them the filter disturbs the water surface constantly oh and I put my hand in the tank the other day to move a ornament my molly was attacking me trying to bite my fingers (evil) has anyone experienced this
 
Have you been testing for ammonia and nitrite? Any level of ammonia & nitrite above zero can harm and even kill the fish. Harm may not be immediately apparent, but will shorten the life of a fish. Measuring pH is not nearly as important as measuring ammonia and nitrite.
 
Have you been testing for ammonia and nitrite? Any level of ammonia & nitrite above zero can harm and even kill the fish. Harm may not be immediately apparent, but will shorten the life of a fish. Measuring pH is not nearly as important as measuring ammonia and nitrite.
Yeh my nitrite is 0 but my ammonia spikes after I've fed them so just been doing 50-75% water changes when it's shows my test kit goes like a faint lime green colour in between yellow and light green then I change water if it stays yellow I leave it , is that a good way to do it
 
Have you been testing for ammonia and nitrite? Any level of ammonia & nitrite above zero can harm and even kill the fish. Harm may not be immediately apparent, but will shorten the life of a fish. Measuring pH is not nearly as important as measuring ammonia and nitrite.
Are ure mollys evil
 
yes, do a water change whenever ammonia shows above zero. And if nitrite shows up, do water changes for that as well.

Lots of fish think your hands are food and try to eat them :)


Since you have mollies, I should ask - do you have hard water? Mollies need hard water and will become sick easily if they are kept in soft or even middling water. Your hardness should be somewhere on your water company's website.
 
Okay I have been doing daily 25-40% water changes. My ammonia levels are low (between 0 and .25) and my nitrites and nitrates are 0. My pH is starting to scare me though. It started out around 6.6 and slowly fell to 6.0. What pH is safe and what should I do to fix it? I’m not sure I’ll be able to find almond leaves..
 
That pH is not a problem with a betta as they like soft acidic water.

Have you tested your tap water, both freshly run tap water and a sample that's been allowed to stand for 24 hours? That will give a baseline to compare the tank pH to.
 
Fresh tap water was about 8.6, after 24 hours (with conditioner) it was 7.0. I’m worried about bacteria not establishing due to the pH as well.
 

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