Cycling A Tank

[fishtanksmomma]

I posted last week about my daughters betta possibly having fin rot. His fins have started looking tattered and redish so I am going to treat him with daily water changes and salt. I also noticed that he seemed too big for his tank so I bought a new 5 gallon to house him in once he is healed. I have a few Annunis plants that I bought and plan on getting a peice of drifteood for his tank as well. My question is, how do I go about cycling his new tank so it's ready for him? I tried reading up on it but I'm sure exactly how to do it. And do I need to sanitize his smaller tank with every water change? How do you sanitize a sick fish's tank if you can not use bleach?

I'm sorry if these are redundant questions or if they are dumb questions. I am new to fish and I was duped into buying my daughter a Betta by the pet store employee who told me they were easy to take care of and didnt need anything but a bowl and food. The more I read up, the more I learn that to take care of one properly takes a little more time & effort.

 

[Amanita.m]

First off make sure u are using water conditioner when u change the water to rid of chlorine and such. Prime is a good one because it also helps detoxify ammonia.

U don't need to sanitize when cleaning, just siphon out the old water and debris from the bottom of the tank (with a bowl I imagine u could use a turkey baster, new and used just for this, to get the debris) and add new water trying to keep the temperature as equal as possible between old and new water. You might want to add a pinch of aquarium salt to the new water. I have used Bettafix or Melafix and Pimafix but there is A LOT of debate on here about using these. I have had good results as have others but some insist they are not worth it. Changing about 50% of the water a day should be ok, if u are using a bowl I think, not positive since I never had one in a bowl.

To cycle a tank, u need a good water testing kit, and a filter, and preferably PURE ammonia, no added soaps or fragrances or anything. I think some dollar stores, and Walmarts or hardware stores should have it. You just need a very small amount and u want to keep the ammonia level in the cycling tank about 4ppm,(adding more ammonia when it drops below 4ppm) and the water warm, about 80-85 degrees F. Test just ammonia till u see it dropping to 0, then start testing for nitrites as well. When the ammonia and resultant nitrite levels go down to 0ppm, and stay there within 24 hours of adding your last ammonia, do a massive water change about 90%+ add new water. Without seeding the new tank with good bacteria, this can take weeks, so patience is needed. If u have access to a cycled tank, some old filter media, or gravel can jump start your cycle.

There are places in this forum that go much more in depth on cycling a new tank, u might want to check those out too. U will want a heater, and thermometer for your tank as well as a filter. Plants can help improve water quality by using some ammonia/nitrites and nitrates in the water, but they can also perhaps slow the cycle a wee bit. It's a tradeoff,lol. I have found my tanks cycle well with plants during "no fish" cycling. Of course u need a decent light source for plants. Also a lot of plants like water a bit cooler so I wouldn't go above 80F with plants.

Unfortunately where many buy fish, they don't usually tell u how much effort it takes; u are creating a small ecosystem so it takes a bit of work to start and keep balanced Maybe they don't want to discourage people, and if your fish die, some places might hope u just keep buying more. Petsmart and Petco's "official" advice (that I have heard repeated in every one I have been to) seems to be, have your tank set up 24 hours before adding fish! No word on frequency/% of water changes, or cycling, and the person may think "ahh well the tank is "filtered" anyway...". Rarely have I seen those customers NOT get fish that same day anyway.
Kind of sad actually.
Good Luck!

 

[fishtanksmomma]

Thanks so much! Thats a lot of info & I really appreciate your help.

 

[OldMan47]

I completely disagree with Amanita.m on this subject. You do need a decent liquid type water tesing kit though.

You are trying to do a fish-in cycle and that means tons of water changes but none, zero, nada, nicht, ammonia additions. Your objective, simply stated will be to maintain both ammonia and nitrites at less than 0.25 ppm at all times. The fish and its food will provide more than enough ammonia to keep you on your toes with water changes. Once you no longer need to do a water change to maintain those values your cycle will be done. I have a link in my signature area to a fish-in cycle thread.

 

[Amanita.m]

My understanding is the cycling was to be done before the fish was put in the tank. "My question is, how do I go about cycling his new tank so it's ready for him?" My instructions were for "No fish" cycling.
IMO cycling a tank without fish in it is gentler on the fish. I don't suggest adding ammonia to a tank with fish in it, and even .25 can be detrimental to a weak/sick fish.

Two completely different processes, for fish in and fish out.

 

[fishtanksmomma]

Yes, I plan on cycling the new tank before putting him in.

Right now I have him in a small 2.5 gallon tank, doing daily water changes because he has a touch of fin rot but nothing too serious, yet.

 

[fishtanksmomma]

Thank you Oldman47. I read through those links in your signature and the information was very helpful.

 

[OldMan47]

The idea that I had was that you had your fish in the tank that you will eventually use for it. To me, that meant a fish-in cycle. If you can do the maintenance required on a tiny tank like that, you can indeed add ammonia to begin a cycle on the future home of your betta.

 

[fishtanksmomma]

Right now IM tkeeping him in a different tank; a little smaller do I can do daily water changes because of fin rot. Although, I'm not sure if I should be doing daily or every other day. There is so much mixed info out there.

Anyway, yes, I want to do a fishless tank cycle. You have great info and it really helped me under stand it a little better. So I'm going to pick up a water testing kit and to see if I can get some used filter stuff. My question is , where exactly does that go? In the tank or in the filter area?

 

[Amanita.m]

In a 2.5 gallon u might get away with every other day for water changes. I'd remove 50% every other day.
If u can fit the used filter media or gravel (in a clean pair of pantyhose perhaps, important no soap residue, I buy cheep knee highs for this)
in the filter itself so much the better, if not putting near the filter intake is second best.
Good luck!

 

[fishtanksmomma]

Ok. Thanks. One more question. Once the tank is cycled, do I NOT change the filter every month? I'm still not sure exactly where this good bacteria lives. And the instructions on the filter say to change it monthly.

 

[Alm0stAwesome]

That's right, you only ever replace the media when it's actually falling to bits in your hand. This can take years When the flow from your filter seems reduced (and this will happen periodically) all you do is rinse the filter media in some old tank water (after a water change for example) to get the really sludgy stuff off and back in the tank it goes!

 

[Amanita.m]

Most of the bacteria will be in the filter, also some will be on every surface in the tank. The ones in the filter will do most of the work, so once u build them up, u don't want to lose them every month and go thru this again! If your filter media ever does need replaced, try and use part of the old filter media in with the new if your filter will accommodate it, and test the water often for a few days to make sure there is enough bacteria to do the job. You will prolly need to do some extra water changes till it balances out again.

 

[fishtanksmomma]

Ok great! Thanks again! I think I'm starting to get the hang of it. Would you guys be willing to take a look at my water tests if I need some more help?

 

[Alm0stAwesome]

of course