Control Of Algae On Light Coloured Substrate

[denis coghlan]

Afternoon people.

This is the scenario!

My tank has been running for since February of this year, in the past month large patches of the crushed coral substrate have begun to develop large patch of green algae. The algae in question is not the same as the brown or hair algae in my other tanks. This algae grows in a sort of carpet effect which binds the top layer of the coral substrate together. Up until this month I would normally carry out a quick gravel vac and a 20% water change every week just to remove the unsightly facial material produce by the fish. Now with this invasion of algae I have to do it every four - five days or the bottom of the tank just ends up looking like a swamp.

The algae also cause problems during the cleaning process as when it is disturbed with the gravel vac, it seems to fold its up into a ball and gathers all the poop with it. These smaller balls of algae then become too heavy for the gravity powered vac to suck up. The end result looks like mashed potatoes (crushed coral) with spinach mixed through it, not a very nice looking substrate at all. The speed at which this algae grows is increasing and my tank is beginning to look unsightly. I have no problem with algae build up on the rocks in my tank as this provides addition grazing for the inhabitants, but the fish don't seem to want to eat this algae slim and I cant blame them!

As for yesterday, the tanks stats where
ammonia = 0
nitrite = 0
nitrate = 5-10 ppm
ph = 8.5 - 9.0

Stock
4 x Pseudotropheus sp. "Elongatus Mpanga"
4 x Labidochromis caeruleus
3 x Metriaclima aurora


My main questions are
Does this happen to all tanks with or without light coloured substrate as they mature?
Is this caused by over feeding?
Would the addition of a catfish to disturb the coral on a regular basic prevent this algae build up?
Is there a particular mbuna species that likes to move lots of substrate, so i don't have to purchase a type of catfish?
Is there anything else I can do, other than change the substrate?

many tanks

 

[Ginge]

My main questions are
Does this happen to all tanks with or without light coloured substrate as they mature?
Is this caused by over feeding?
Would the addition of a catfish to disturb the coral on a regular basic prevent this algae build up?
Is there a particular mbuna species that likes to move lots of substrate, so i don't have to purchase a type of catfish?
Is there anything else I can do, other than change the substrate?

many tanks

Don't think so not normally.
Could be try feeding a little less african cichlids can go ages without food.
Would be good to stop or controll it.
Most mbuna move the subsrate around to my knowledge. Can they fit it in their mouths?
Not sure TBH reduce the time the lights are on for.

 

[denis coghlan]

Most mbuna move the subsrate around to my knowledge. Can they fit it in their mouths?
Not sure TBH reduce the time the lights are on for.

Hey ginge

Yeah, the particles are slightly larger than sand, there is plenty of excavation going on in the tank, but it is only localised and no digging goes on in the areas with algae growth.

I have the tank lights set on a twelve hour photoperiod. Is this too much or should I reduce it? What length of time do other people have their lights set on?

 

[brewyn]

I have my tank lights on for 14 hours a day, every day. usualy it is high phosphates that can cause extreme algae growth, not a problem that I have suffered with untill starting this marine tank, so the knowledge is lacking. check your phosphate levels and if it is high, then add rowaphos into your filters. It wont remove it over night but it will help in the long term. the xtra sun light wont be helping too much.

hope this helps.

dont seem to suffer as many problems as most, sogod forebid the day I do

 

[denis coghlan]

usualy it is high phosphates that can cause extreme algae growth, not a problem that I have suffered with untill starting this marine tank, so the knowledge is lacking. check your phosphate levels and if it is high, then add rowaphos into your filters. It wont remove it over night but it will help in the long term. the xtra sun light wont be helping too much.

Thanks Brewyn for the tips. Regarding phosphates, I have never checked for them in any of my tanks i.e I don't have a test kit. From what I can work out this must be the problem as a result of "maybe over feeding on my part".

This product that you mentioned "rowaphos" does it just come in a bag that you insert into your filter? Sounds like it could be the answer to my problems. The mbuna tank is not the only tank that I have a algae problem in , I can't get any plants to take in my 60lt planted because of algae growing on the plants and reducing the level of photosynthesis. At first I thought it was the light levels but then I added an additional 18w T8 light kit in the hood and this has just increased the level of algae and by the end of the week you cant see through the algae on the glass

Can you recommend a good phosphate test kit? and what company manufactures rowaphos?

 

[mamafish68]

what you're discribing to me sounds not to be a algae but a bacteria, namely CYANOBACTERIA and by all accounts it thrives on less then adequate water conditions, do a search, read up on it and do it fast, it can be toxic if left unchecked.

 

[denis coghlan]

what you're discribing to me sounds not to be a algae but a bacteria, namely CYANOBACTERIA and by all accounts it thrives on less then adequate water conditions, do a search, read up on it and do it fast, it can be toxic if left unchecked.

Thanks mamafish, I think you just hit this nail on the head!

This article from http/fig.cox.miami.edu/Faculty/Dana/cyano.html, described CYANOBACTERIA as follows

"Depending upon the species and environmental conditions, colonies may form filament sheets".
This sounds exactly like what I have got.

The cichlid-forum.com has to say
"Cyanobacteria: Cyanobacteria is commonly referred to as red slime algae by hobbyists although it is not really an algae; it is a bacterium. Poor water quality with excessive nutrients is the usual causes. To combat cyanobacteria, perform frequent water changes, siphon out detritus, and if you have a salt-water aquarium, use a good protein skimmer."

They also have a good article on phosphates Phosphates @ C-F.com

I have always considered my water changes to be of a religious standard, with 20% and a gravel vac every week. I also check all my water stats regularly but I had never considered phosphates as a majory problem, thus I have just shown my inexperience. I will pick up a test kit this evening and do a "major" water change when I get home.

From what I can remember the presence of this green substance only arrived after I left a lump of cucumber in the tank for 4days as a long weekend food source. I can only imagine how much phosphates that pumped into the tank. No more weekend food, if the females can last four weeks without food while holding, the others can last a weekend.

Mamafish thank you for pointing this out as an answer to my question, but just out of curiosity do you know any other good links that you could direct me too to help deal with this problem, I just want to make sure that I have all basis covered and I nip this problem in the butt.

thanks.

 

[brewyn]

the red algae is what I have in my marine tank, its caused by phosphates (or so Iv'e been told) but since using the rowafoss, it has decreased. the rowafoss itself is moist in texture, you only add a teaspoon or so to your filter and then rince it every other day, adding another fresh teaspoon each time. it doesn't reliese the phosphates back into the water once fully loaded. it must be put between the filter sponges but the instructions will tell you all this.

is your algae looking like this? if so, your in for more water changes, maybe churn up the substrate!!!

 

[brewyn]

expencive stuff but the dogs B*****s.

 

[france]

if you dont mind having a couple plants in your tank I think some species of Elodea give off an anti-bacterial agent which protects against this algae

 

[brewyn]

its a nice suggestion m8 but plants will be a waiste of money in tanks tanks, mbuna tend to destroy them and dig them up all the time.

 

[denis coghlan]

is your algae looking like this? if so, your in for more water changes, maybe churn up the substrate!!!

Hey brewyn

Thanks for taking the time to capture, resize, host and post your pictures. The algae that you have seems to be far more serious than what I have in my tank. I have taken a couple of before and after pictures today, just to demonstrate what it looks like and what it should look like. Keep in mind that I cleaned and used the gravel vac in this tank only last Monday so its five days of growth that you see in the pictures.

Full tank shot, most of the green material is found in the bottom right of the tank

I carried out a 100l water change in my tank, so that is a little over half the total volume, I hope this is not too much as I read somewhere that it can shock your tank into recycling itself.

Regarding a phosphate test kit, I rang the three main LFS that I use and only one has them in stock. I was a bit surprised when he told that it would be 30 euro for the test kit. (because this is an international site I will do the conversion for people that's 20.17 English pounds, 38.46 US dollars and 98 Colombian pesos). Is this about right for a test kit or am I being royally screwed?

I could only imagine how much I would pay for that big bucket of stuff that you have brewyn. edit: just a quick question about your SW tank, have you been keeping a setup diary for it, if you have can you send me the link as I'd like to see how its going?

thanks people for your responses so far regarding this subject.

 

[brewyn]

that algae you have shown looks more like excessive light, not so much the length of time but the T8s. I have the same algae in my quarantine tank, it gets full sunlight for most of the day...I only use subdued lighting and dont suffer it in any other tanks. I dont have a phosphate kit myself, and alls you will be told is plenty of water changes, kit or no kit!!! the rowaphos I got was about £10 and it will last for ages, it is making a definate difference. try leaving your lights off for a few days and see if this will make a difference, but do a clean up 1st, so you can see a difference!!!!

 

[brewyn]

quarantine tank with too much natural light!!!

mbuna tank, same water conditions as the quarantine tank, but no direct sun light!!!

 

[denis coghlan]

that algae you have shown looks more like excessive light, not so much the length of time but the T8s. I have the same algae in my quarantine tank, it gets full sunlight for most of the day...I only use subdued lighting and dont suffer it in any other tanks. I dont have a phosphate kit myself, and alls you will be told is plenty of water changes, kit or no kit!!! the rowaphos I got was about £10 and it will last for ages, it is making a definate difference. try leaving your lights off for a few days and see if this will make a difference, but do a clean up 1st, so you can see a difference!!!!

I will try the mbuna tank with no light for a couple of days and I shall report back! As for the planted tank with the additional T8, I will give it a good clean and large water change tomorrow (as I'm fed up running around with buckets at the moment ) and try it with reduced lighting. Thanks for the tips. As for the rowaphos, if they have it in stock the next time i'm at the LFS and it doesn't cost the earth I might give it a try. Also I am going to severely cut down on my hap hazard feeding method of just throwing food into the tank and not making sure that it is all eaten.

Can I ask about what sort of feeding regime you use brewyn? Just want to know how the more experienced do it!

cheers


edit: Just saw your posted tank pictures, how often do you vac the sand in your mbuna tank and where is all the fish c$%p.