Clear Poop

How to treat for Camallanus Worms
There are plenty of different de-wormers on the market. Not all are available world wide, so you will have to have a look around and see what’s available in your region.

The most common form of treatment for this is to use Levamisole*. Levamisole is a great fast-acting de-wormer and is highly recommended for the treatment of internal parasites amongst fish. The dosage for levamisole is 2ppm. Or according to packaging here in Australia it works out as 1ml per 7 litres of aquarium water.

I personally have used and highly recommend Avitrol Plus**. It is a combination of Levamisole with a small amount of Praziquantel. It is available in both liquid form and in tablet form. For the tablet form the dosage is 1 tablet per 10 litres of aquarium water and for the liquid form it is 1ml per 5 litres (I have never personally used the liquid form).

Now that we have covered the medications and dosages it’s time to discuss the best plan of action while using these.
It is best to dose the tank on a day when you will be around. From the time you add the treatment it can take less than 6 hours for the worms to start being excreted from the fish. During this time you need to keep a vigilant watch on them. This is because both the above medications paralise the worms, forcing them to release their hold on the intestinal walls and then be passed out of the body. It does not kill them. They then fall to the bottom of the tank, and will become food if they are not syphoned out of the tank, then continuing the cycle.

This is the recommended course of treatment when treating with Levamisole or a Levamisole based medication.

Step 1.
Work out the correct dosage (the doses for levamisole and avitrol plus are above, for any other med please refer to the packaging) For levamisole and Levamisole based medications it is a dosage equivalent to 2ppm. Do NOT add extra. Adding extra of these meds will not speed up the process, it will only cause more stress to your fish.

Step 2.
Add the correct dosage and regularly check the fish from about 4hrs after treatment. The majority of the worms will be excreted within 24 hours. Make sure you vacuum up any that you can see lying on the bottom of the tank as they will get eaten, continuing the cycle. Do not do a water change now as you will only be removing the med from the water too soon.

Step 3.
Do a water change on day 3. This is because Levamisole takes approx 3 days to be absorbed and have the remainder excreted by the fish. Don’t do a large water change, just approximately 30% will do fine. Doing a larger one will only add more unnecessary stress on the fish.

Step 4.
This step is a relatively easy one. 2 weeks after first treatment, repeat steps 1-3 again. This is just to make sure that any eggs that may have hatched will be taken care of.

Step 5.
This is only recommended, it is up to you if you do it or not, but I recommend repeating the treatment again 2 weeks later. The treatment schedule should be: first treatment, 2nd treatment (2 weeks after 1st treatment) and 3rd treatment (2 weeks after 2nd treatment). I like to do this just to be 100% certain of removing all traces of these worms.

I have never lost one fish after finding out of this treatment and have never had another outbreak either. Most fish will pull through unless they have been badly infected, in which case the treatment was started to late to help. Not all fish though will recover completely. I have had one fish a female Kingsizei, (which no matter how much she was fed, what she was fed, or her tank conditions) she never regained her health. She remained very thin. This was because she had been badly infected and the worms had caused serious injury to her intestinal tract. That is just another complication these worms can have.

If you suspect your fish of having these parasites, then start treatment as soon as possible to give your fish the best chance of a complete recovery.

* Levamisole is a bridwormer and therefore is available from most pet produce stores. Here is the link to an article on Levamisole Hydrochloride. It is a very indepth article. http://www.loaches.com/Members/shari2/levamisole-hydrochloride-1 **Avitrol Plus is also a birdwormer. It is available from most pet produce stores. I highly recommend it.

For more information on worms you can also check out this article http://www.plecofanatics.com/articles/showentry.php?e=321&catid=2


Written by Bre

link to information.
http://plecoplanet.com/?page_id=48
 
I was told that the flukes/tapeworm treatment would treat for Callamanus worms!! Dang it, I will get hold of this treatment ASAP.

I do feed them red food, but the fish had already done white poo, and I did not feed them the night before the red/clear stuff
 
So you have seen no signs of improvement after using the flukes/tapeworm medication?

Did the red poo look like blood?
 
Can you also post your water stats in ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, and ph.
Your tank is overstocked.

The symptoms the fish are showing, long stringy white poo, clear poo, fish look thin, bloated, can point towards bacterial, internal parasites.
Do your fish go thin because there stopped feeding?
 
All of The fish ate The blood worm I have them
Last night.

I know the tank is over stocked, I do 30% water changes/vacuum once a week.

This was two days ago


Ph 7.9
Gh 4dkh (71.6)
Kh 8dkh (143.2)
Nitrate 0-5.0 mg/l
Nitrite 0

My nitrates were very high about a month ago so I did consistent water changes to reduce it. I also was over feeding them, I have since cut back dramatically on feeding, none have lost weight due to that. The ones that lost weight stopped eating.

The red poo just looked like cellophane, I went to take a photo but my
Phone is out of
Memory :(

Should the fluke tabs have worked had it been Callamanus?

Nikki
 
If the medication had worked the fish waste should of returned to normal brown colour. It does take abit longer to see signs of fish putting weight back on.

For now I would treat the fish with medicated foods. Or use an internal bacteria medication. Once the worming medication has been removed from the tank.
 
Are there further actions I should take to fully remove Thr wormer? A 25% water change and filter clean was all the packet said was needed?

And should I still use the bird wormer? Or would the fluke tablets have covered that?
 
When it say clean your filter in the instructions. does that include the filter sponges?
It sounds like the medication only effective for a certain amount of time then breaks down.
You could always add some fresh black carbon to your filter.

Are the fish still producing long stringy white poo, or clear waste.
Have the fish started to gain weight?
 
It instructs to clean "filter media"
So sponges

Jack Dempsey had clear poop and I fed him bloodworm and a couple hours after he had normal poop. After that I didnt see any at all.

One of the bristlenoses I could see had half half, so like bits of normal poo with empty gaps..

This is not enough to convince me everything is okay.

HOWEVER, until you told me, I did not know I had to scoop out any pops during the fluke tabs treatment, so I take it that was pointless.

Is clear poo and empty pop the same thing?

I will be heading back to my Lfs today,
I'll get a good wormer like the ones that have been recommended on here, so I will either take the path of the quickest treatment between that and metronidazole, then follow up with the other one.
Does that sound okay?

One thing I didn't add is that this is a planted tank. It only has elodea and some thick grassy thing.
 
I would leave it now for a least 5 days to let the fish settle back down.
If no improvement I would try and get the bird wormer.
Have you treated with a bacterial medication? As once you treated the fish for worms, you than back up with a bacterial medication.
metronidazole is an all in one treatment so you don't have to back up with a bacterial med.
 
Hello,

I have treated with tetra parasite guard, I have treated twice as I didnt notice much improvement.

I lost my second electric yellow this morning, and my blue ram look slike it has indentations on its head.

photo1gvvb.jpg


photo2rtz.jpg
 
Just keep a close eye on the fish to see what colour there waste is when they go to the toilet.
Fish that look abit on the skinny side should start to gain weight if the medication has been effective., The parasites have not caused to much damage to the internal organs.

If your tank is overstocked I would be far better to reduce your stocking.
 
Sorry to invade the thread, but I have a similar problem. One of my fish has been giving out extremely long strings (thinner than normal) of white fecal matter. She doesnt look skinny and she's been eatting quite well. The other one, I havent seen the bowel movement but she's been a bit lethargic with very dark patterning while sitting in one place (that can vary since they're gourami) but still eatting. Some of the fecal matter on the sand is bright/vibrant red but not the same color of dull red of the flake food. Nothing particularly else abnormal. Been feeding flakes, algea waifers, and bloodworms(sometimes) to vary the diet. I really cant see their anuses that well because they're so small, nothing enlarged or red though.

Parasites? Bacteria? Too much/little flakes?

------
20gal
2 opaline gourami
NH3: Trace/zero
NO2: 1.0ppm (last leg of the cycle)
NO3: Trace/10ppm(?)
 
How long has the tank been set up please?

Bloodworms will cause the red waste.

The fish that look darker in colour, acting lethargic, resting alot can be signs of internal bacteria infection.
I would treat her with a internal bacteria medication. Can you isolate her?

Feed your fish some peas to see if that clear the stringy white waste up.
Introduce some green veg in to there diet. Broc, cabbage, sprouts, spinach, lettuce, peas.
Introudce
 
3~4 weeks?

Unfortunately this is the only tank I have, and it's the one developing my good bacteria. So I would assume that I would have to craft some sort of make-shift tank to put her into temporarily to treat for bacteria as to not kill my good bacteria.

I've tried other vegetables (broc/cabbage), but they didn't seem to like them very much. Not sure how small I can cut these up to where the pieces are small enough to fit into their mouths, or if they just don't like them. I kind of assumed it was because they were a hard material, and not soft like the peas. Or maybe I should try boiling them...but then they would lose their vitamins that way...
 

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